DROPS / 178 / 33

Shifting Tide by DROPS Design

Shawl with garter stitch, stripes and lace pattern, worked in DROPS Fabel.

Tags: lace, shawls, stripes,
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-370
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Length in middle: approx. 53 cm. Width at top: approx. 160 cm. 
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g colour 100, off white
100 g colour 340, blue lagoon
NOTE: If the shawl is worked in one colour, you will have enough with 200 g Fabel.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows. 

STRIPES:
* 1 ridge (i.e. knit 2 rows) with blue lagoon, 1 ridge with off white *, repeat from *-*.

KNITTING TIP:
To prevent long lengths of yarn along the sides of the shawl when working stripes, work the outermost stitch in each side (both from the right and the wrong side) with 1 strand off white + 1 strand blue lagoon (= 2 strands). To do this, use the strand both from the inside and the outside of both the balls or make a separate ball in each colour which then follow the shawl along the one side.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
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SHAWL:
The shawl is worked first in GARTER STITCH back and forth – see description above, then work lace pattern.

Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and off white and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 2, 1 yarn over, purl 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 = 7 stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit 2, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 = 11 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch (= mid-stitch).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit to the mid-stitch, purl the mid-stitch and knit to end of row.
Continue by working garter stitch in STRIPES – see description above, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side, mid-stitch in stocking stitch and increase in each side as follows – READ KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION:
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit 1 with 1 strand off white + 1 strand blue lagoon (= 2 strands), continue working with 1 strand blue lagoon as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, Knit to the middle stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, Knit until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 with 1 strand off white + 1 strand blue lagoon.
ROW 6 (= wrong side): Knit 1 with 2 strands, continue working with 1 strand blue lagoon as follows: knit 2, knit the next yarn over twisted so that there is not a hole, knit to the middle stitch, purl the mid-stitch, knit until there are 4 stitches left on the needle, knit the first yarn over twisted, knit 2 and finish with knit 1 with 2 strands.
ROW 7 (= right side): Knit 1 with 2 strands, continue with 1 strand off white as follows: 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit to the middle stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= mid-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit until there are 2 stitches left on the needle, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over and knit 1 with 2 strands.
ROW 8 (= short row from the wrong side): Knit 1 with 2 strands, continue with 1 strand off white as follows: knit 2, knit 1 twisted (so there is not a hole), knit 4, turn the piece.
ROW 9 (= right side): Slip the first stitch as if to knit, tighten the strand and knit 6 stitches back with off white and knit the last stitch with 2 strands.
ROW 10 (= wrong side): Knit 1 with 2 strands, continue with 1 strand off white as follows: knit to the middle stitch, purl the mid-stitch, knit until there are 4 stitches on the needle, knit the first yarn over twisted (so that there is not a hole), knit 2 and finish with knit 1 with 2 strands.
ROW 11 (= short row from the wrong side): Knit 1 with 2 strands, knit 7 with off white.
ROW 12 (= wrong side): Slip the first stitch as if to knit, tighten the strand and knit 6 stitches back with off white and knit the last stitch with 2 strands.

Repeat rows 5 -12 back and forth, but with each repetition work 2 stitches more on the short rows until the short rows have a total of 26 stitches in each side, then work the short rows over these 26 stitches until finished length (the other stitches are continued as before). After each repetition you have increased 12 new stitches. Continue in this way until there are 347 stitches on the needle (the piece now measures approx. 38 cm along the mid-stitch).
Work with 1 strand off white, but the outermost stitch in each side is worked in 2 strands off white to finished length.
Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches with increases in each side and on each side of the mid-stitch as before = 353 stitches on the needle.

Continue by working pattern according to diagrams A.1 to A.6 as follows:
Work diagram A.1 over 1 stitch, work A.2 until there are 7 stitches left before the mid-stitch, work A.3 over the next 7 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), A.4 over the next 7 stitches, A.5 is repeated until there is 1 stitch left and work A.6 over this 1 stitch. Work and increase in this way until you have worked 2 repeats of A.1 to A.6 in height. Work 2 ridges over all the stitches, then cast off with yarn overs as follows:
To make sure the cast-off edge is not tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch (the yarn over is cast off as a normal stitch).

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Miki 09.04.2020 - 21:37:

So do I start with the small separate balls of lagoon at the end of row 7? When I work with the small ball of lagoon, I leave the small ball of white as it is ? KNITTING TIPS says "To prevent long lengths of yarn along the sides of the shawl". I don't quite understand what it means.

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 10:00:

Dear Mikki, this video shows how to work the stitches on the edge with 2 strands of yarn, this might help you to understand how to do that (on this shawl you will work this on each side = beg of row from RS/end of row from WS and beg of row from WS/end of row from RS. Happy knitting!

Miki 08.04.2020 - 11:24:

When do I use a small separate ball of off white first time? The last stich of row5? What about a small separate ball of blue? The last stich of row7? Do I afterwards use these small separate balls only the last stich of right side and the first stich of wrong side?

DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 16:40:

Dear Miki, you start with the small separate balls at the end of row 5, at the beg of row 5 you work with the same ball off white as since beg of piece + lagoon (2 strands), continue with lagoon until end of the row and work the last stitch with the yarn lagoon + 1 separate ball off white. At the beg of WS rows, you first start with the separate ball and at the end of WS rows you finish with the ball from the beg. Happy knitting!

Lisa 27.05.2019 - 05:37:

After the “short rows” reach 26 the pattern says to “work the short rows over these 26 stitches until finished length (the other stitches are continued as before). Does this mean to skip the short rows? So skip rows 8,9,11,12? Or something different? Thank you!

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 11:54:

Dear Lisa, once you have worked the short rows over 26 sts, continue as before with the short rows but the short rows will be worked over 26 sts (= you don't increase anymore the number of sts worked into the short rows). Happy knitting!

Jozefien De Bruijn 19.04.2018 - 14:39:

Dit lijkt me een fijn project voor de vakantie. Ik heb echter maar 100 gram Lace. Als ik in tricotsteek brei in plaats van in ribbelsteek, kom ik dan toe met mijn 100 gram ?

DROPS Design 21.04.2018 kl. 12:43:

Hallo Jozefien, De garenvervanger geeft aan dat je 200 gram Fabel kunt vervangen door 103 gram Lace, dus waarschijnlijk moet dat wel lukken.

Marta 12.02.2018 - 15:20:

Hi, I would love to make this shawl but I don't exactly understand the pattern. Is there any chance for a short tutorial video how to make stripes with that 2 strands of yarn. I don't understand this knitting tip. DO I need 1 ball of 2 yarns of 2 balls to put on each side of the shawl? Thank you for your help.

DROPS Design 12.02.2018 kl. 17:10:

Dear Marta, the edge sts will be worked with double strand, ie 1 strand off-white + 1 strand blue lagoon, to get the double strand on each side you can make a small separate ball in each colour and let it follow upwards. This video shows how to work the edge st with double strand. Happy knitting!

Karin Mokvist 10.11.2017 - 10:23:

Jag får inte bytet av färgerna att stämma. 1 rand = 2 v blu lagoon och 2 v natur enl instruktionen men när man läser mönstret står det från varv 5: sticka med blu lagoon samt v 6. Varv 7,8 ,9,10, 11,12 stickas med natur! Ska vissa ränder vara tjockare? Eller hur menar ni? Med vänlig hälsning Karin

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 12:24:

Hej Karin, jo men du följer varven som i mönstret. Lägger upp med natur, från varv 5 stickas Ränder, det står även vilken färg du skall börja med på varv 5. Lycka till!

Melissa 04.06.2017 - 21:52:

Nei selfølgelig ikke, jeg fant ut av det :-)

Melissa 04.06.2017 - 15:30:

"Gjenta 5.-12.pinne frem og tilbake" menes med det å strikke pinne 5-12 og så baklengs igjen? Altså 12, 11, 10....?

DROPS Design 05.06.2017 kl. 16:41:

Nej vi mener bare at du fortsætter med de forkortede pinde som 5.-12. pind. God fornøjelse!

Schwörer 12.05.2017 - 10:33:

Werden die Umschläge im gestreiften Teil verschränkt abgestrickt oder nur abgestrickt steht nirgends bei den Tips Mit freundlichen Grüssen Pia Schwörer

DROPS Design 12.05.2017 kl. 13:45:

Liebe Frau Schwörer, die Umschläge, die verschränkt gestrikt sind, sind in der Reihe 6, 8, 10 und 12 beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Heidi Breinlinger 22.04.2017 - 17:27:

Achtung. Nach der Handwäsche mit Wollwaschmittel ist das Weisse türkis verfärbt. Ärgerlich!

DROPS Design 24.04.2017 kl. 10:54:

Liebe Frau Breilinger, hier finden Sie tipps zur Garnpflege. Mehr Auskünfte bekommen Sie gerne von Ihrem DROPS Laden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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