DROPS / 178 / 15

Time for Tea by DROPS Design

Tunic with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeve, worked top down in DROPS Paris. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern w-639
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour 29, light ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for garter stitch edges – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. 

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads. NOTE: Increase differently on body and sleeves. Increases on sleeves are shown in diagram A.2.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 86 stitches) and divide number of stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 21.5. In this example increase after approx. every 21st stitch.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).
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TUNIC:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle/double pointed needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 86-88-92-96-100-106 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-2-18-14-30-24 stitches evenly - READ INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced) = 90-90-110-110-130-130 stitches. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 – choose diagram for your size (= 10 repetitions of 9-9-11-11-13-13 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 180-180-200-200-220-220 stitches on round. Piece measures approx. 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm from cast-on edge.

Insert 4 marker threads in piece without working stitches as follows: Insert every marker thread in the middle stitch in a repetition of A.1 (see star in diagrams) as follows: Insert 1st marker thread in the middle stitch in 1st repetition of A.1, insert 2nd marker thread in 3rd repetition of A.1, insert 3rd marker in 6th repetition of A.1 and insert 4th marker thread in 8th repetition of A.1.
Stitches between 1st and 2nd marker thread = right sleeve.
Stitches between 2nd and 3rd marker thread = front piece.
Stitches between 3rd and 4th marker thread = left sleeve.
Stitches between 4th and 1st marker thread = back piece.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
On next round begin increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above, and work pattern as follows:
Now work pattern A.2 (= 35-35-39-39-43-43 stitches) on sleeves (= between 1st and 2nd marker thread and between 3rd and 4th marker thread), and work in stocking stitch on front piece (= between 2nd and 3rd marker thread), on back piece (= between 4th and 1st marker thread) and work the 4 stitches with marker in stocking stitch.
RAGLAN SLEEVES:
Increases on sleeves are shown in diagram A.2. Increase 1 stitch after 1st and 3rd marker thread and 1 stitch before 2nd and 4th marker thread.
Increase like this every other round 7-8-9-10-11-11 times in total, i.e. until 5-3-3-1-1-1 round in A.2 remains.
RAGLAN FOR FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Increase 1 stitch every round 0-0-0-3-5-6 times, and 1 stitch every other round 6-8-9-8-8-8 times.

When all increases are done and 5-3-3-1-1-1 round in diagram A.2 remains there are 232-244-272-284-316-320 stitches on needle.
Work next round as follows: Work until 1st marker thread, slip stitches between 1st and 2nd marker thread on a stitch holder (= 49-51-57-59-65-65 stitches for sleeve), cast on 6-8-10-12-12-14 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 67-71-79-83-93-95 stitches, slip stitches between 3rd and 4th marker thread on a stitch holder (= 49-51-57-59-65-65 stitches on sleeve), cast on 6-8-10-12-12-14 new stitches under sleeve, work the remaining stitches on round.
Piece measures approx. 20-22-24-25-27-27 cm from cast-on edge.

Remove the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves and insert 2 new marker threads in piece in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 146-158-178-190-210-218 stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8th-8th-5th-4th-5th-4th round 9-7-15-18-14-19 times in total = 182-186-238-262-266-294 stitches. When piece measures 40-40-40-41-41-43 cm, increase 7-3-5-8-4-3 stitches evenly = 189-189-243-270-270-297 stitches. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (= 7-7-9-10-10-11 repetitions of 27 stitches). When entire diagram A.3 has been worked vertically, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm and cast off - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. Slip the 49-51-57-59-65-65 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-8-10-12-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 55-59-67-71-77-79 stitches on needle. Insert a marker thread mid under sleeve (i.e. in the middle of the 6-8-10-12-12-14 new stitches).
Now work pattern as follows: Work 3-5-5-7-7-8 stitches in stocking stitch, continue with pattern A.2/A.4 over the next 49-49-57-57-63-63 stitches - i.e. in size S, M and L work the remaining rounds in A.2 (without increases in each side of diagram) before continue with A.4 over A.2, work in stocking stitch over the remaining 3-5-5-7-7-8 stitches on round. When sleeve measures 3 cm from the new stitch cast on, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 9th-7th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 6-7-10-11-11-11 times in total = 43-45-47-49-55-57 stitches (work the stitches that do not fit the pattern when decreasing in stocking stitch). When sleeve measures 24 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast off - make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.07.2017
YOKE:...cast on 6-8-10-12-12-14 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 67-71-79-83-93-95 stitches, slip stitches between 3rd and 4th marker thread on a stitch holder...
SLEEVE:
…READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3-2-2-2-2 cm 6-7-10-11-11-11 times in total = 43-45-47-49-55-57 stitches...
Updated online: 25.08.2017
SLEEVE:...When sleeve measures 3 cm from the new stitch cast on, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 9th-7th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 6-7-10-11-11-11 times in total = 43-45-47-49-55-57 stitches (work the stitches that do not fit the pattern when decreasing in stocking stitch)...

YOKE:...232-244-272-284-316-320 stitches on needle.
Work next round as follows: Work until 1st marker thread, slip stitches between 1st and 2nd marker thread on a stitch holder (= 49-51-57-59-65-65 stitches for sleeve), cast on 6-8-10-12-12-14 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 67-71-79-83-93-95 stitches,...
Updated online: 09.04.2019
Correction - BODY: When piece measures 40-40-40-41-41-43 cm, increase 7-3-5-8-4-3 stitches evenly

Diagram

= knit
= knit 2 together, 1 yarn over
= 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
= 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over, 1 yarn over
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
= knitting direction
= insert marker threads in the middle stitch in diagrams - see explanation above





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Mary Galvin 18.04.2020 - 19:34:

Hi, Is it possible to get the 178-15 Time for Tea pattern in smaller sizes? I would like to knit it for a young teenager. Thank you!

DROPS Design 19.04.2020 kl. 20:59:

Dear Mary, unfortunately we cannot modify our patterns to each individual request. We hope you will understand. Happy Knitting!

Heidi Jensen 23.05.2019 - 22:36:

Jeg har et spørgsmål vedr ærmerne (sidst i opskriften). Efter “læs INDTAGNINGSTIPS” står der, at man i str S efter 3 cm for hver 9 cm skal tage 2 masker ind i alt 6 gange. Det vil jo resultere i et ærme på ca 48 cm. Men umiddelbart efter står der, at man skal runde af med retstrik, når ærmet er 24 cm. Skal der være 9 pinde i stedet for 9 cm imellem indtagningerne?

DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 08:09:

Hei Heidi. Ja, det har du helt rett i, det skal stå hver 9 pinne. Vi skal få rettet dette i oppskriften. Takk for beskjed, og god fornøyelse

Åse 21.04.2019 - 10:42:

Bolen: str M starter med 158 m. og øker 4 etter 3cm. da har en 162 m. Så skal en øke slik 7 ganger = 28m. og har da etter alle økninger 190 m. og ikke 186 som mønsteret sier.

Heidi Jensen 08.04.2019 - 20:23:

Jeg har stillet et spørgsmål 30/3 og tør ikke fortsætte på arbejdet, før jeg har fået svar :-). Jeg spørger derfor igen: Er det korrekt som angivet i opskriften, at arbejdet i str M skal måle 66 cm fra nederst på ærmegabet, inden der tages ud igen og strikkes efter diagram A.3? Eller skal arbejdet i stedet måle 66 cm fra skulderen?

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 11:56:

Hei Heidi. Ja, dette er hel lengde på arbeidet. Vi skal få rettet oppskriften slik at målene er oppgitt fra ermhullet og ned. Tips til neste gang: om du stiller spørsmålet ditt som et "spørsmål" isteden for en "kommentar" vil vi se det raskere. God fornøyelse

Åse 02.04.2019 - 21:17:

Raglan øking står det: øk på hver side av merketråder. Jeg har økt en m. på hver side av merketråder på de omg. det strikkes bare rett i mønster, tilsammen 8 m. på annenhver omg. I tillegg øker jeg det som viser i mønster. Blir dette for mye? Skulle økning i hver ende av mønster erstatte fire av disse ? Veldig usikker her nå?

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 14:18:

Hei Åse. Om du leser uner RAGLAN helt øverst i oppskriften står det at økningene på ermene er tegnet inn i diagram A.2. Du øker altså på hver side av hvert merke, men på ermene er disse økningene en del av diagrammet. Når alle økinger er ferdig har du 232-244-272-284-316-320 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse

Heidi Jensen 30.03.2019 - 22:24:

Umiddelbart før afsnittet “ryg- og forstykke” fremgår det, at der fremadrettet skal måles fra nederst på ærmegabet. I afsnittet “ryg- og forstykke” fremgår, at udtagning påbegyndes efter 3 cm. Efter de 7 udtagninger i str M vil længden fra skulder være ca 50 cm og længden fra nederst på ærmegabet vil være knap 30 cm. Er det virkelig korrekt, at arbejdet i str M skal måle 66 cm fra nederst på ærmegabet, inden der tages ud igen og strikkes efter diagram A.3?

Inge Spille 25.03.2019 - 10:41:

Entschuldigung wenn ich noch einmal nach frage ... ist es egal, an welcher Stelle ich diese Masche zunehme? Herzlichen Dank für Ihre Geduld und Mühe!

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 12:21:

Liebe Frau Spille, siehe vorrige Antwort + die Zunahmen für Vorder- und Rückenteil werden nach dem Markierer am Anfang Vorder- und Rückenteil und vor dem Markierer am Ende Vorder- und Rückenteil gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Inge Spille 23.03.2019 - 14:52:

Liebes Dropsteam, danke für eure wunderbaren Anleitungen. Ich stricke zum ersten Mal Raglan von Oben.A1 ist zu Ende gestrickt. Die Ärmelzunahme habe ich verstanden. Aber wie ist das mit der Zunahme für Vorder- und Rückenteil? In jeder Reihe nur 1 Masche oder jeweils 1 Masche vorn und hinten? Oder jeweils an jeder Raglannaht also 4 Maschen? Danke für eure Hilfe!

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 10:10:

Liebe Frau Spille, für Vorder- und Rückenteil nehmen Sie je nach der Grösse 1 M in jeder Runde (nur in die 3 grösseren Größe) und 1 Masche in jeder 2. Runde in allen Größen (6-8-9-8-8-8 Mal). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Renate 25.09.2018 - 20:11:

Habe vergessen brauche in xxl. ich hoffe daß auch im frühjahr 2019 wieder etwas mit loch und rundpasse dabei ist.danke nochmal

DROPS Design 26.09.2018 kl. 07:48:

Liebe Renate, wir können leider nicht jede unsere Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen - für individuelle Hilfe zu dieser Anleitung, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit dem Laden auf, wo Sie Ihre Wolle gekauft haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Renate 25.09.2018 - 17:12:

Hallo liebes drops team. ich finde eure anleitungen super,nur habe ich ein problemmit dem umrechnen bei 178-15 Da ich dünneres garn lauflänge185m und 3,5stricknadel verwende,schaut es bei mir irgenwie immer anders aus und ich trenne sehr viel. wie rechne ich richtig um,so das es wie auf dem bild ausschaut.vielen dank

DROPS Design 26.09.2018 kl. 07:30:

Liebe Renate, Diese Tunika wird mit einer Maschenprobe von 17 M x 22 Reihen glatt rechts = 10 x 10 cm. Wenn Sie diese Maschennprobe nicht haben, ist vielleicht der Garn nicht das richtige - Hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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