DROPS / 175 / 7

Spring Valley by DROPS Design

Knitted top with wave pattern, round yoke and multi coloured pattern in DROPS Flora. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Spring Valley / DROPS 175-7 - Knitted top with wave pattern, round yoke and multi coloured pattern in DROPS Flora. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Spring Valley / DROPS 175-7 - Knitted top with wave pattern, round yoke and multi coloured pattern in DROPS Flora. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no. fl-003
Yarn group A
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-350-350 g colour 16, pistachio
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 19, coral
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 17, yellow
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 12, turquoise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON, Arched (white) NO. 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side. The whole of A.4 is worked in stocking stitch – chose the right diagram for your size.

Start 3 stitches before the marker thread in the side. Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over the knitted stitch. When decreasing in the sides, work the stitches that do not fit in A.3 in stocking stich.

To work out where to decrease on the row, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 377 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of stitches to be decreased (e.g. 42) = 8.7. In other words, in this example, every 7th and 8th stitch are worked together. Do not decrease across the bands. Decrease by knitting 2 stitches together from the right side and purling 2 stitches together from the wrong side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked around):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

Start from the right side and knit the first 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches, insert a marker (= mid back), knit the next 7-7-7-8-8-8 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 21-21-21-24-24-24 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 28-28-28-32-32-32 stitches. Continue back and forth in this way by knitting 7-7-7-8-8-8 stitches more each time until the middle 63-63-63-72-72-72 stitches on the needle are all worked, knit the rest of the row.

The top is worked back and forth on the circular needle from mid front from bottom up. 

Cast on 367-409-451-472-514-556 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and pistachio. Work as follows – from the right side: A.1 across the first 5 stitches, A.2 across the next 357-399-441-462-504-546 stitches (= 17-19-21-22-24-26 repeats in width), finish with A.1 across the last 5 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the next to last row of A.2 is completed there are 248-276-304-318-346-374 stitches on the needle, on the last row of A.2 adjust the number of stitches evenly along the row to 251-281-299-323-353-383 stitches. Continue working as follows – from the right side: A.1 across the first 5 stitches as before, A.3 A (= 6 stitches), A.3 B across the next 228-258-276-300-330-360 stitches, A.3 C across the next 7 stitches and A.1 across the last 5 stitches as before. Insert 2 marker threads in the piece, 65-73-77-83-91-98 stitches in from each side (back piece = 121-135-145-157-171-187 stitches). When the piece measures 8 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased) – READ DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease every 3 cm in total 8-9-9-9-9-9 times = 219-245-263-287-317-347 stitches. When the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches in each side from right side (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of each marker thread) = 199-225-239-263-289-315 stitches on the body. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeve edges.

The sleeve edges are worked around on a short circular needle.
Cast on 70-80-90-92-98-102 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 mm and pistachio. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, then cast off the first 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches of the round = 60-70-78-80-84-86 stitches. Work another sleeve edge in the same way.

(1st row = wrong side) Work the sleeve edges on to the same circular needle size 3 mm as the body where the cast-off stitches are for the armholes, at the same time decrease 2-0-0-4-6-4 stitches evenly along the row = 317-365-395-419-451-483 stitches. Continue working as follows – from the right side: A.1 across the first 5 stitches, A.4 across the next 306-354-384-408-440-472 stitches (= 51-59-64-51-55-59 repeats of A.4), finish with the first stitches in A.4 and A.1 above the last 5 stitches. Continue this pattern upwards. On the first row with an arrow decrease 24-30-30-24-24-32 stitches evenly along the row – READ DECREASE TIP -2. Continue to decrease 36-42-42-40-40-48 stitches evenly along the rows with arrows. From the 1st-1st-1st-2nd-2nd-2nd row with decreases continue by working A.1 in each side with off white. When A.4 is completed in height there are 113-125-155-155-187-163 stitches on the needle. Work 1 row knit from the right side with off white where 6-14-40-36-64-36 stitches are decreased evenly along the row = 107-111-115-119-123-127 stitches. Work 1 row purl from the wrong side. For a better fit you can work a small ELEVATION in the back of the neck with off white – see description above. Finish by working 2 RIDGES with off white – see description above, then cast off. The top measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm to the shoulder.

Sew the openings under the armhole borders. Sew on the buttons evenly spaced along the left band, the buttons are buttoned through the holes in the right band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.05.2017
Diagrams A.1 and A.2 has been updated, increase tip has been deleted.


symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with pistachio
symbols = knit from the wrong side, purl from the right side with pistachio
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = off white
symbols = turquoise
symbols = coral
symbols = yellow

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Eb 15.06.2021 - 14:56:

Merci de votre aide!La vidéo montre comment raccorder une manche déjà montée à part sur une autre aiguille, mais l'explication du modèle parle de les "monter sur la même aiguille"et"en rond",alors que c'est en aller retour sur la vidéo.On la monte donc à part,en faisant juste une côte mousse?Je n'arrive décidément pas à comprendre,pourtant, je tricote depuis des années, sur aiguilles circulaires,en rond,en aller retour,des raglans éventuellement.

user icon DROPS Design 15.06.2021 kl. 16:35:

Bonjour Eb, la bordure des manches se tricote séparément (faites en 2, une pour chaque manche) = 2 côtes mousse = 4 rangs endroit, puis on rabat les 10 à 16 premières mailles du tour (emmanchure) et on met en attente. Pour l'empiècement, on va placer les 60 à 86 mailles de la bordure de chaque manche au-dessus des 10 à 16 m rabattues pour les emmanchures à la fin du dos/devants. Et vous retrouvez donc cette partie dans la vidéo: comment reprendre toutes les mailles des manches/des devants/du dos ensemble. En espérant que ça soit plus clair ainsi. Bon tricot!

country flag Eb 14.06.2021 - 23:15:

Bonjour,Madame et navrée de vous déranger. Je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment monter les mailles au niveau des manches(juste avant l'empiècement):faut il absolument mettre les autres mailles sur une aiguille supplémentaire?Je n'arrive pas à les tricoter en rond?On les monte sur l'envers?Navrée ,je suis perdue et ne sais comment continuer...Merci beaucoup!

user icon DROPS Design 15.06.2021 kl. 08:19:

Bonjour Eb, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter les mailles des manches au-dessus des mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures, les premiers rangs sont parfois un peu serrés à cette transition et vous pouvez vous aider d'une autre aiguille si besoin, mais après quelques rangs tout sera plus simple. Bon tricot!

Bellinda Notari 23.11.2018 - 21:04:

What is ment by "Set eyelet pattern"? because : and what means:Row1....A3"A" across next 6sts, A3"B" across next 276 sts, A3"C" across next 7 sts, ... why those "A", "B" and "C", which should mean the colors of the yarn, when the body is knit in only 1 color (pistachio)!! ??

user icon DROPS Design 25.11.2018 kl. 11:11:

Dear Belinda, "set eyelet pattern" means that you continue the pattern as it was knitted before. If you take a look at the diagram, you can see that "A", "B" and "C" refers to the different parts of the pattern repeat, and not the colors. Happy Knitting!

Bellinda Notari 20.11.2018 - 14:36:


Bellinda Notari 20.11.2018 - 14:34:


user icon DROPS Design 21.11.2018 kl. 09:17:

Dear Mrs Notari, diagrams have been corrected online - see correction in May 2017, we are sorry for any inconvience caused - there shouldn't be any other mistake. Should you have any other questions about the pattern, you are welcome to ask them there. Happy knitting!

Bellinda Notari 20.11.2018 - 13:24:

Can you tell me the corrections of the charts & all the to knit sts in those charts, please, because I already knitted the 5 border in stocking sts ; do I have to knit same sts as mention with the 2 knits sts & the YO's? and do I knit the 21 sts from chart A1 instead of A2 for all the remaining stitches for the lower cardigan border (the waves?)! BECAUSE YOU MADE THIS MISTAKES I KNITTED THE 11 ROWS THE WRONG WAY ; I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED IN DROPS ! ! ! are there other mistakes??

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2018 kl. 14:24:

Dear Mrs Notari, diagrams A.1 and A.2 have been edited in May 2017 as follows: you are working A.1 over the first 5 sts, then repeat A.2 over the next sts (17-19-21-22-24-26 times in width) until 5 sts remain and work the last 5 sts in A.1. There are more rows in A.1 but when A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, you repeat A.1 from row 1 and continue A.2. The number of sts in A.2 will decrease by and by: you dec 2 sts in each A.2 on row 5 (= A.2 is now worked over 19 sts) then on row 11 (= A.2 is then worked over 17 sts) and 21 (A.2 is then worked over 14 sts). Happy knitting!

country flag Natalie 06.06.2018 - 20:29:

Hej! Jag blir inte klok på minskningarna och hur jag ska få mönstret att stämma efter dessa! När jag minskat 2x2 maskor (1 på varje sida om de två markörerna) är det ju bara tre maskor mellan omtag och 2 räta tillsammans - ska jag så sticka tre mellan dessa (och fyra resten) eller hur ska jag göra?

country flag Kirsten 24.05.2017 - 13:26:

Hier wurde schon auf die Verwechselung zwischen A1 und A2 hingewiesen. Desweiteren, stricke ich gerade. In der Erklärung des Diagramms steht unter " 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken" nochmal das selbe , wozu zu der Erklärung eigentlich ... " 1 Umschlag zwischen 2 Maschen" gehört. ! So ist jedenfalls die Erklärung bei anderen Drops Anleitungen ! Wie soll man das nun stricken? Wenn ich nochmals 2 Maschen zusammen stricke, wird das Stück im Nu immer kleiner und es fehlt das Lochmuster!?????

user icon DROPS Design 24.05.2017 kl. 14:53:

Liebe Kirsten, 5. Reihe in A.1 wird so gestrick: 3 x 2 M rechts zusammen, dann (1 Umschlag, 1 M re) x 5, 1 Umschlag, 3 x 2 M rechts zusammen = 19 M übrig (2 M werden abgenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Magotte 17.04.2017 - 08:32:

Bonjour A1 et A2 ne sont ils pas inversés? Pourquoi 21 mailles sur A1, alors que je suis en bordure? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 18.04.2017 kl. 11:12:

Bonjour Margotte, il semble qu'il y ait effectivement une erreur, tricotez les 5 m pour la bordure devant et répétez les 21 m en largeur (point de vagues), merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

country flag Svenja Grönewald 29.03.2017 - 20:29:

Könnte es eventuell sein, dass nicht Muster A1 über 5 Maschen gestrickt wird sondern A2?

user icon DROPS Design 30.03.2017 kl. 09:05:

Liebe Frau Grönewald, Danke für den Hinweis. Das Diagram mit 5 Maschen soll für die Blende gestrickt sein und das mit 21 Maschen wird dann inzwischen wiederholt. Viel Spaßbeim stricken!

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