DROPS / 175 / 8

Spring Valley Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with wave pattern, round yoke and multi-coloured pattern in DROPS Flora. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no. fl-001
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 16, pistachio
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 19, coral
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 17, yellow
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 12, turquoise

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON, Arched (white) NO. 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. The whole of A.4 is worked in stocking stitch – see correct diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread in the side. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over the knitted stitch. When decreasing in the sides, work the stitches that do not fit in A.3 in stocking stich.

DECREASE TIP-2:
To work out where to decrease on the row, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 377 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of stitches to be decreased (e.g. 42) = 8.7. In other words, in this example, every 7th and 8th stitch are worked together. Do not decrease across the bands. Decrease by knitting 2 stitches together from the right side and purling 2 stitches together from the wrong side.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase mid underarm: Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn over stitches twisted to prevent holes (the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch).

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION:
Start from the right side and knit the first 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches, insert a marker (= mid back), knit the next 7-7-7-8-8-8 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 21-21-21-24-24-24 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 28-28-28-32-32-32 stitches. Continue back and forth in this way by knitting 7-7-7-8-8-8 stitches more each time until the middle 63-63-63-72-72-72 stitches on the needle are all worked, knit the rest of the row.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The jacket is worked back and forth on a circular needle from mid front from bottom up. 

BODY:
Cast on 367-409-451-472-514-556 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and pistachio. Work as follows – from the right side: A.1 across the first 5 stitches, A.2 across the next 357-399-441-462-504-546 stitches (= 17-19-21-22-24-26 repeats in width), finish with A.1 across the last 5 stitches. REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION!  When the next to last row of A.2 has been worked, there are 248-276-304-318-346-374 stitches on the needle, on the last row of A.2 adjust the number of stitches evenly along row to 251-281-299-323-353-383 stitches. Continue to work as follows – from the right side: A.1 across the first 5 stitches as before, A.3 A (= 6 stitches), A.3 B across the next 228-258-276-300-330-360 stitches, A.3 C across the next 7 stitches and A.1 across the last 5 stitches as before. Insert 2 marker threads in the piece, 65-73-77-83-91-98 stitches in from each side (back piece = 121-135-145-157-171-187 stitches). When the piece measures 8 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased) – READ DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease every 3 cm in total 8-9-9-9-9-9 times = 219-245-263-287-317-347 stitches. When the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches in each side from right side (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of each marker thread) = 199-225-239-263-289-315 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
The sleeve is worked in the round on double pointed needles, from bottom up, change to a short circular needle when there are enough stitches.
Cast on 50-52-56-58-60-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and pistachio. Work A.5 across all the stitches. When A.5 has been worked once in height continue with stocking stitch across all stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid underarm. When the piece measures 6-6-6-6-8-8 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread mid underarm – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 3-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm in total 13-17-20-21-23-23 times = 76-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. When the sleeve measures 44-43-43-42-40-39 cm cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid underarm (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches. Work one more sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
(1st row = wrong side) Work the sleeves onto the same circular needle size 3 mm as the body where there are cast-off stitches for the armhole, at the same time decrease 2-0-0-4-6-4 stitches evenly along the row = 329-377-407-435-467-499 stitches. Continue to work as follows – from the right side: A.1 across the first 5 stitches, A.4 across the next 318-366-396-424-456-488 stitches (= 53-61-66-53-57-61 repeats of A.4), finish with the first stitch of A.4 and A.1 across the last 5 stitches. Continue this pattern upwards, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 36-42-42-40-40-48 stitches evenly along each row with an arrow – READ DECREASE TIP-2. From 1st-1st-1st-2nd-2nd-2nd row with decreases, continue by working A.1 in each side with off white. When A.4 is completed in height there are 113-125-155-155-187-163 stitches on the needle. Work 1 row knit from the right side with off white where 6-14-40-36-64-36 stitches are decreased evenly along the row = 107-111-115-119-123-127 stitches. Work 1 row purl from the wrong side. For a better fit you can work a small ELEVATION at the back of the neck with off white – see description above. Finish by working 2 RIDGES with off white – see description above, then cast off. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm to the shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew on the buttons evenly spaced along the left band, the buttons are buttoned through the holes in the right band.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with pistachio
= knit from the wrong side, purl from the right side with pistachio
= knit 2 together
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
= off white
= turquoise
= coral
= yellow



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Gabriele 11.05.2019 - 19:14:

Hallo, bitte schreibt mir doch wie und wo die Knopflöcher angebracht werden. Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 13.05.2019 kl. 09:07:

Liebe Gabriele, es wird keine Knopflöcher eingearbeitet, die Knöpfe werden durch die Löcher der rechten Blende (A.1) geschlossen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bellinda Notari 21.12.2018 - 16:59:

De 6x42 st mind IN LARGE, zijn VERSCHRIKKELIJK MOEILIJK ; het is niet hoe Drops het gemakkelijk uitlegt. MOET 3 uur uitrekenen om het zelfs dan nog niet correct te hebben;GRAAG NOG HULP AUB 0m body,mouw & aan voorboorden:evenredig correct te meerderen,AUB!!

DROPS Design 01.01.2019 kl. 20:47:

Dag Bellinda,

Op de naalden waar een pijl staat in het patroon, minder je 42 steken. Dit minderen doe je gelijkmatig over alle steken (de biessteken niet meegerekend. Dus tel het aantal steken (exclusief de biessteken) en deel deze door 42. Als je dan bijvoorbeeld op 9 uitkomt (ik zeg maar wat), minder je door steeds de 8e en 9e steek samen te breien. Als je niet op een heel getal uitkomt, bijvoorbeeld op 8,7 ofzo, dan minder je af en toe de 7e en 8e steek. Het gaat erom dat die 42 steken goed verdeeld worden over de hele toer.

Bellinda Notari 07.12.2018 - 12:22:

Measurement you sent with another PULLOVER do not match AT ALL with my cardigan ; are the meas. 40-42,43 cm ment for length of arms or the width of armholes?

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 14:28:

Dear Mrs Notari, that's right, the lesson is only explaining how to read a diagram and the measurements. The measurements calculated in the answer yesterday were from the number of stitches (= width) as explained in the pattern at the beginning and at the end of sleeve. Please contact the store where you bought your yarn for any further individual assistance with measurements, it will be much easier for them (and for you) to help you. Happy knitting!

Bellinda Notari 06.12.2018 - 20:38:

A foto or small draft along side with the measurements you explained in details ; would help me enormously & i think which is adequate in this situation ; because i dont understand very good where the measurements all stand for in the sleeve ; i would be very greatefully thankful for your huge & great effort. Hugs Bellinda

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 08:13:

Dear Mrs Notari, you will find here how to read a measurement chart - I calculated the measurements on sleeve (last asnwer) from the number of stitches in both sizes you asked for with the tension of this pattern. Should you need any further individual assistance, please you are welcome to contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Bellinda Notari 05.12.2018 - 18:29:

DESPERATE NEED ALL MEASUREMENTS OF SLEEVES FOR SIZES L & XL PLEASE ; DUE TO QUITE LARGE LIMBS! SORRY

DROPS Design 06.12.2018 kl. 09:25:

Dear Mrs Notari, if your tension is right (= 24 m x 32 rows stocking st = 10 x 10 cm), sleeve starts with 56-58 sts = 23-24 cm - after all increase you have 96-100 sts = 40 -42 cm and after sts have been cast off for armhole after 43-42 cm, 84-88 sts remain = 35-37 cm. Happy knitting!

Bellinda Notari 04.12.2018 - 17:05:

But wish to know ALL MEASURES of the sleeves : the wrists & ALL MEASURES of the armholes, length SLEEVE TILL FAIR ISLE, width of the arm outcuts (ALL MEASUREMENTS), the hight of the arm outcuts the shape the armholes, the width of the arms on the upperarms & also the lower arms, the length of the shoulders & ALL MEASURES from the neck, just as it was mentioned in the past & which are missing in your designe pattern, because I struggle with these measurements to choose Large or XL for sleeves?

DROPS Design 05.12.2018 kl. 07:59:

Dear Mrs Notari, you will find all relevant & importantn measurements in the chart for both sizes. Compare a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about how to choose a size here. Happy knitting!

Irene 17.02.2018 - 18:59:

Mangler det informasjon om knapphull, eller er det bare jeg som ikke finner det...........?

DROPS Design 18.02.2018 kl. 07:06:

Hei Irene, Knappene kneppes gjennom hullene i høyre stolpen. God fornøyelse!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 175-8

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.