DROPS / 176 / 14

Evening Promenade by DROPS Design

Jacket with deep v-neck and pockets in DROPS Air. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-053
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-550-650-700 g colour 03, pearl grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck):
Decrease inside 7 band stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 7 band stitches: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
Decrease as follows before 7 band stitches: Knit 2 together.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 6, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm
M: 5, 13, 22, 30, 39, 47 and 56 cm
L: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm.
XL: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm.
XXL: 3, 11, 20, 28, 37, 45, 54 and 62 cm.
XXXL: 5, 13, 22, 30, 38, 46, 55 and 63 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 90-98-106-114-122-134 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows - from right side: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain, finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch. Work rib and garter stitch for 4 cm, then switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side while decreasing 8-10-10-10-8-10 stitches evenly, do not decrease over stitches in garter stitches = 82-88-96-104-114-124 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 21 cm, cast on 1 edge stitch in each side at the end of the next 2 rows = 84-90-98-106-116-126 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-69 cm, cast off for armholes in each side on every other row as follows: 2-2-3-3-3-3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 stitch 0-0-0-0-1-3 times = 80-86-88-92-96-98 stitches. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm, begin by working in garter stitch over neck AT THE SAME TIME begin cast off for diagonal shoulder. Work as follows:
NECK:
Work 3 ridges over the middle 30-30-32-32-34-36 stitches (work the other stitches as before) then cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-22 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease 1 stitch inside 7 stitches in garter stitch on next row towards neck - Read DECREASE TIP!
DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
Cast off on every other row for diagonal shoulder as follows: 6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches 4 times, 7-10-10-8-9-9 stitches 1 time (= 31-34-34-36-37-37 stitches in total cast off for diagonal shoulder.) Repeat in the other side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 53-57-61-65-69-73 stitches (including 7 band stitches) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows - from right side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 2, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain, finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch. Work rib and garter stitch for 4 cm - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLE - see explanation above. Then switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 1 row in stocking stitch with garter stitch in each side while decreasing 5-6-6-6-5-4 stitches evenly, do not decrease over stitches in garter stitches = 48-51-55-59-64-69 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with garter stitch in each side as before. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 21 cm, cast on 1 edge stitch at the end of next row from right side = 49-52-56-60-65-70 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 7 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side.
When piece measures 57-58-60-62-64-65 cm, decrease for neck inside 7 band stitches - REMEMBER DECREASE TIP. Repeat decrease every 4th row 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total and every other row 13-12-13-12-13-14 times in total - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-69 cm, cast off for armhole at the beginning of every row from wrong side as on back piece. When cast off for armhole and decrease for neck are done, there are 31-34-34-36-37-37 stitches on needle. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm, cast off for diagonal shoulder as on back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. cast off for armhole at beginning of row from right side. Decrease for neck inside band stitches at the end of row from right side. Cast off for diagonal shoulder at beginning of row from right side. Do not decrease for buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
Work piece back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 38-38-42-42-46-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Work rib for 4 cm, then switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row while decreasing 4 stitches evenly = 34-34-38-38-42-42 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 7-7-6-6-6-7 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat increase every 5½-4-4-3-2½-2 cm 6-8-8-10-11-12 times in total = 46-50-54-58-64-66 stitches. When piece measures 37-37-36-35-34-32 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4-4-3-5-6-8 times, then cast off 3 stitches in each side until piece measures approx. 42 cm in all sizes. Cast off. Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve seams and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch down to ridges in the side (= 21 cm vent). Sew the buttons on to the left band.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth.
Cast on 38-38-38-40-40-40 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 18-18-18-20-20-20 cm. Work 2 ridges, cast off. Work another pocket the same way. Sew pockets on to front piece, approx. 13-13-13-14-14-14 cm from bottom edge and 7-7-8-8-9-9-cm inn from mid front.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.08.2017
New yarn amount:
DROPS AIR fra Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-650-700 g colour 03, pearl grey

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Mary Peto 14.10.2019 - 12:19:

Could you please advise me on how many grams of yarn I need for a L size thank you

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 12:49:

Dear Mary, for size L you need 500 grams of DROPS Air. Happy knitting!

Lone 25.09.2019 - 20:53:

Jeg strikkede den i str. XXL og brugte kun 500 g.

Delépine 10.08.2019 - 11:46:

Bonjour Je ne vois pas dans ce modèle la quantité de pelotes nécessaire pour réaliser ce gilet ? Cordialement

DROPS Design 10.08.2019 kl. 19:13:

Bonjour Mme Delépine. Selon la taille, vous aurez besoin de 400-450-500-550-650-700 g de laine Drops Air, qui correspondent à: 8-9-10-11-13-14 pelotes. Vous trouvez la quantité nécessaire à côté de la photo. Bon tricot!

Aira Karlsson 24.07.2019 - 14:44:

Ihanan näköistä neuletta Angora Baruk Desing Alitse Real 40 -langalla. Pyörityksen suhteen ihmettelin. Kokoan neuleen ja katson hihat vielä.

Katja Schmidtpott 01.05.2019 - 22:47:

Ik zie in veel patronen staan dat het op een rondbreinaald wordt gebreid. Maar in dit hele leuke patroon overigens, zie ik helemaal de toegevoegde waarde niet van een rondbreinaald. Ik heb ouderwets leren breien en dat gaat niet met rondbreinaalden, daarom kan ik er niet goed mee overweg. En daarom wil ik het op normale naalden breien. Dus als er staan brei heen en weer op rondbrei naald, kan het dan ook op gewone breinaalden? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord.

DROPS Design 05.05.2019 kl. 17:48:

Dag Katja,

Soms worden ook rondbreinaalden aanbevolen bij het heen en weer breien als er heel veel steken op de naald staan. Dat is in dit patroon ook de enige reden, dus als je het aantal steken geen probleem vindt, kun je dit patroon prima op rechte naalden breien.

Yvette Lijnbach 08.03.2019 - 16:17:

Voor maat XL zijn er na het minderen voor de armsgaten slechts 90 steken over ipv. 92. Je begint met 104 steken minder aan beide kanten 1x3= 6 steken en 2x2=8 steken, in totaal 14 steken.

Sari Moskuvaara 03.02.2019 - 08:57:

Hei, ongelmia hihanpyöriön kohdalla. Kuinka pitkä hihanpyöriön tulisi olla koossa M? Työn pituus hihassa 37cm, työ kokonaisuudessa 42cm. Näin ei varmaan ole tarkoitus. Muuten aivan ihana malli.

Susanne 10.10.2018 - 14:08:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Ich bin nur deshalb etwas irritiert, weil in der Beschreibung GLEICHZEITIG steht. Da steht ja, dass über die mittleren 30 Krausrippe gestrickt werden soll und GLEICHZEITIG für die Schulterschräge abgekettet werden soll. Bei Ihrer Erklärung hört es sich aber so an, als müsste ich zuerst die Krausrippen stricken und ANSCHLIEßEND mit dem Abketten für die Schulterschräge beginnen.

Susanne 09.10.2018 - 20:17:

Ich verstehe die Passage des Halsausschnittes nicht. (Meine Anzahl der Maschen beträgt 90 an dieser Stelle). Stricke ich nach 75 cm also wie folgt: 6 Maschen abnehmen, dann über die ersten 30, dann über die mittleren 30, die letzten 30, wenden...6 M abnehmen und zurück? Oder: 6 Maschen abnehmen, über die ersten 30, dann die mittleren 30 und zurück? Verstehe diesen Teil leider nicht. Ich bitte um detaillierte Erklärung.

DROPS Design 10.10.2018 kl. 09:19:

Liebe Susanne, in der 1. Größe haben Sie 80 M vor dem Halsauschnitt, dann stricken Sie die nächsten 6 Reihen wie zuvor aber die mittleren 30 Maschen sollen krausrechts gestrickt (= bei den Rückreihen werden diese mittleren 30 M rechts getrickt). Dann werden die mittleren 16 Maschen abgekettet (= 7 M kraus rechts auf beiden Seiten dieser 16 M). Dann jede Schulter einzeln fertig stricken: Am Anfang jeder Reihe von der Seite (= gegen Armausschnitt) 6 M. 4 x und 7 M 1 x abketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christel 09.09.2018 - 21:22:

Klopt het dat bij het rugpand je de eerste naald averechts aan de verkeerde kant breidt, en bij het voorpand en de mouwen de eerste naald rechts is aan de verkeerde kant??

DROPS Design 12.09.2018 kl. 14:19:

Dag Christel, Nee, dat klopt inderdaad niet. Zowel op het rugpand als op de voorpanden en de mouwen is het de bedoeling om 1 naald averecht op de verkeerde kant te breien. Ik heb het patroon aangepast. Bedankt voor het doorgeven en veel breiplezier!

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