DROPS / 176 / 21

Good Luck by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with leaf pattern in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk, worked top down.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-119
Yarn group A
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 144 cm Height in the middle: approx. 72 cm
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250 g colour 1306, powder

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 23 stitches x 30 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows. 

See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

Cast on 3 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. 
Knit 1 row from right side over all stitches. Then work next row as follows from wrong side: Knit 2 stitches in first stitch, 1 yarn-over, knit 1 stitch, 1 yarn-over and knit 2 stitches in last stitch = 7 stitches on row.

Continue according to diagram A.1 as follows: Work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, A.1 over next stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch, can be marked with a marker to make it easier to see this stitch), A.1 over the next stitch, finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch.
Continue according to diagram with 2 stitches in garter stitch in each side and 1 middle stitch in stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 83 stitches on needle (= 41 stitches on each side of middle stitch).

Work according to diagrams A.2, A.3 and A.4 as follows: work 2 stitches in garter stitch, * A.2 over the next 9 stitches, A.3 over the next 18 stitches, A.4 over the next 12 stitches *, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), repeat from *-* 1 more time, finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. When A.2 and A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 119 stitches on needle (= 59 stitches on each side of middle stitch).

Continue to repeat diagram A.2, A.3 and A.4 vertically. For every repetition vertically work A.3 one more time between A.2 and A.4.
Work diagrams A.2 to A.4. 10 times in total vertically = 443 stitches on row (= 221 stitches on each side of middle stitch).

Work according to diagrams A.5, A.6 and A.7 as follows: Work 2 stitches in garter stitch, * A.5 over the next 9 stitches, repeat A.6 until 12 stitches remain before middle stitch (= 11 times), A7 over 12 stitches *, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), repeat from *-* 1 more time, finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Work diagrams 1 time vertically, the last row is a row from right side.

To avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off as follows on next row (= wrong side): Cast off while purling stitches and make a yarn-over after every yarn-over from previous row. Cast off yarn-overs as stitches. Piece measures approx. 72 cm measured along middle stitch.


= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn-over
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Nettie Van Bommel 21.04.2020 - 15:35:

In toer 19 van patroon A7 kom ik niet uit. Als ik dit deel brei geeft mij dat 21 steken in toer 20 bevat A7 22 steken. Ik heb het al een aantal keren teruggestoken maar ik kom er niet uit. Doe ik iets fout of zit er een fout in het patroon. Graag z.s.m. antwoord want ik wil graag verder breien.

DROPS Design 29.04.2020 kl. 09:23:

Dag Nettie,

Inderdaad denk ik dat er een foutje in het patroon zit. Ik heb het doorgegeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om na te kijken. Hopelijk komt er spoedig een correctie op. Excuses voor het ongemak.

EDIT: De telpatronen zijn nagekeken en het klopt wel. De telpatronen A.5, A.6 en A.7 worden achter elkaar gebreid en waardoor je in totaal op het juist aantal steken komt. Dus een eventueel te veel aan minderingen/omslagen in A.7 worden gecompenseerd door A.5.

Brenda Knickerbocker 18.03.2020 - 01:07:

I think that the photo is beautiful. I wouldn't mind learn how to make the shawl.

DROPS Design 18.03.2020 kl. 08:55:

Dear Mrs Knickerbocker, you will find how to read diagrams here, and this video shows how to start the shawl. Happy knitting!

Marilena 06.02.2020 - 15:10:

Salve,si può realizzare con i ferri tradizionali e non con i circolari ? Grazie

DROPS Design 06.02.2020 kl. 16:57:

Buongiorno Marilena. La lavorazione è in ferri di andata e ritorno, quindi potrebbe usare ferri dritti. Vengono però consigliati i ferri circolari per via del numero elevato di maglie, che non riescono a stare tutte sui ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

JOLANTA PODGÓRNIAK 22.01.2020 - 13:29:

Witam ,ponieważ opanowałam ten wzór na chustę ale czy mogę prosić o opis jak zrobić tym wzorem czapkę aby był komplet? Chociaż początek bo na 5 drutach nie wiem jak zacząć aby ładnie się układał. Potrzebuję schemat A1

DROPS Design 22.01.2020 kl. 17:20:

Witaj Jolu! Zobacz tą czapeczkę, jest z tej samej grupy włóczek co szal i jest z wzorem liści, myślę, że będzie doskonale pasować TUTAJ. Zapraszamy jak najczęściej :) Pozdrawiamy!

Jolanta 16.01.2020 - 11:19:

Dziękuję za szybki odpis .Jest tu bardzo dużo wzorów i propozycji zrobienia ślicznych rzeczy. Polecam wszystkim aby tu zajrzeli a na pewno tak szybko nie wyjdą .

JOLANTA PODGÓRNIAK 15.01.2020 - 20:15:

Witam , robię na drutach wiele lat ale niestety nie wiem jak po przerobieniu schematu A1 zacząć kolejną czyli A2,A3,A4 .Próbuję na wiele sposobów i nie zgadzają się oczka aby wyszedł odpowiedni wzór. Bardzo mi się podoba ten wzór i właśnie chciałam córce zrobić taką jak również jest to dla mnie dla zdrowia gdyż mam stwardnienie rozsiane i w ten sposób ćwiczę ręce. Czy można uzyskać na You Tube takie przejście . Pozdrawiam

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 22:58:

Witaj Jolanto! Zgłosiłam prośbę o przygotowanie video, które będzie dostępne na naszej stronie, sprawdzaj we wzorze, na dole, pod opisem. Pozdrawiamy!

Wilma Jurriansen 24.03.2019 - 14:19:

Probleem opgelost :)

Wilma Jurriansen 21.03.2019 - 22:10:

Ik bedoel in patroondeel A7

Wima Jurriansen 21.03.2019 - 22:08:

Ik heb de omslagdoek bijna af, maar ik loop vast in toer 19 van A Als ik dit deel brei, geeft mij dat 21 steken, echter in toer 20 bevat A7 22 steken. Ik heb het al vele keren terug gestoken, maar kom steeds niet goed uit. Zit er een fout in het patroon of doe ik iets fout?????

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 09:26:

Dag Wima,

In een ander bericht zie ik dat je er al uit bent gekomen. Dank voor de terugkoppeling. Veel breiplezier!

Dagmar Glatz 03.10.2018 - 19:20:

Gibt es eine Möglichkeit das Tuch in der Höhe zu verlängern. MfG

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 10:06:

Liebe Frau Glatz, Sie können wahrscheinlich die Diagramme A.2-4 in der Höhe mehr als 10 x stricken, bevor Sie dann A.5-A.7 stricken. Sie werden aber mehr Wolle brauchen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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