DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
DROPS 174-2
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-030
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour no 06, silver

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. 

RAGLAN:
Dec 2 sts in every transition between body and sleeves. 
Dec as follows from RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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JUMPER: 
Worked in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 192-216-240-264-288-312 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Belle. K 1 round, on next round work A.1 (= 12 sts) over all sts (16-18-20-22-24-26 repetitions). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to circular needle size 4 mm and continue with A.2 over A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm, cast off for armholes in each side as follows: Work the first 87-99-111-123-135-147 sts (= front piece), cast off the next 9 sts (= P 2 + K 5 + P 2), work the next 87-99-111-123-135-147 sts (= back piece), cast off the last 9 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts on double pointed needle size 3.5 mm with Belle. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. K 1 round, then work as follows:
Size S + M + XXL + XXXL:
K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 16-16-20-20 sts, A.3 (= 18 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 16-16-20-20 sts, finish with K 1.
Size L + XL:
P 1, K 2, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 16-16 sts, A.3 (= 18 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 16-16 sts, finish with K 2 and P 1.
When A.3 has been worked, there are 53-53-57-57-61-61 sts on round. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Continue as follows: Stocking st over the first 17-17-19-19-21-21 sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-0-1-0-1-0 sts evenly, A.4 over A.3, stocking st over the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-0-1-0-1-0 sts evenly = 51-53-55-57-59-61 sts. Continue with stocking st and A.4. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 3½-3-2½-2½-2-2 cm 10-12-13-14-20-21 times in total, then every 2 cm 5-5-5-5-0-0 times = 81-87-91-95-99-103 sts. Work inc sts in stocking st. When piece measures 55-55-54-53-52-52 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer raglan dec and larger neck width) cast off the 4 sts on each side of marker = 73-79-83-87-91-95 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 320-356-388-420-452-484 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). Continue with pattern over sts on body and pattern and in stocking st as before on sleeves, AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec on every other round 21-21-22-23-24-25 more times and then on every round 2-5-6-7-8-9 times. After all dec for raglan 128-140-156-172-188-204 sts remain on round. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 12-20-32-44-56-68 sts evenly = 116-120-124-128-132-136 sts. Work rib K 2/P 2, cast off with K over K and P over P when rib measures approx. 3 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.12.2016
Correction: Diagrams A.2 and A.4 have been edited. Symbol for no stitch was missing.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 st, on next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid making a hole
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 sts, on next round knit the yarn over to make a hole
symbols = knit 2 sts tog
symbols = slip 1 st knitwise, k 2 and pass the slipped st over
symbols = no stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 174-2

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Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Ann-Christin Stockfors wrote:

Sista varvet på A1 och A3 ska väl inte förskjutas så att rät maska stickas över avig maska? Man får ju extramaskan mellan 2 räka maskor.

28.04.2024 - 10:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ann-Christin, ja det stemmer, du får 3 rät, 2 avig, 5 rät 2 avig, så ja avig är fortfarande över avig :)

02.05.2024 - 12:10

country flag Baida wrote:

Bonjour, je vous remercie pour votre réponse, est ce que vous avez un autre modèle à me conseiller pour que je puisse m'inspirer de son col? Je précise que je tricote ce modèle avec le cotton merino. Je vous remercie.

20.04.2024 - 10:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Baida, nous n'avons pas de filtres pour les modèles avec ou sans réhausseur, il va vous falloir consulter les différents modèles avec raglan/empiècement arrondi dans la même tension pour trouver un exemple. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

22.04.2024 - 07:50

country flag Baida wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en cours de tricoter le raglan et je me pose des questions concernant le col. Si on suit les explications ce sera un col pareil devant et dos alors que sur le patron dessiné, on voit que le devant est plus creusé et c'est ce que je voudrais. Comment faire du coup? Je vous remercie. Cdt

18.04.2024 - 07:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Baida, effectivement, dans ce modèle, l'encolure devant et l'encolure dos sont identiques, si vous voulez une encolure devant un peu plus profonde, vous pouvez tricoter quelques rangs raccourcis dans le dos pour former une réhausse. Bon tricot!

18.04.2024 - 08:21

country flag Louisa wrote:

Drops 174-2 A1 is 12st en komt precies uit met 16 herhalingen voor maat S. Dan begin ik aan A.2, daar is 1 hokje zwart en he. Ik maar 11st, ik kom niet uit. Ik houd steken over aan het einde van die regel met het zwarte hokje. Wat doe ik verkeerd?

05.06.2023 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Louisa,

Het zwarte hokje is geen steek. Als je het telpatroon met de schaar uit zou knippen, dan zou je het zwarte hokje er ook uit moeten knippen. Dus de naalden waarin je omslagen maakt in A.2 beginnen met 1 recht, 1 omslag, 1 recht, 2 averecht.

07.06.2023 - 11:31

country flag Trine Valland wrote:

Hei, jeg nærmer meg avslutningen av senteniel-genseren og har spørsmål til dette. Målskissen viser at ryggen er lengre enn forran (5 cm), men jeg greier ikke finne at det er beskrevet i teksten. Overser jeg noe? Setter stor pris på avklaring. :-)

26.05.2023 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Trine, nej ryggen er samme længde som forstykket. De 5 cm viser stykket mellem der hvor raglanen slutter og øverst på skulderen :)

29.05.2023 - 14:05

country flag Helga Tong wrote:

Habe jetzt gesehen, grundsätzlich fehlt die Anleitung für die Abnahmen beim Halsausschnitt, Vorder - und Rückenteil. Bitte um Hilfe

23.01.2023 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Tong, wie vorher beanwortet gibt es hier keine besondere Abkette für den Halsausschnitt, der wird vorne und hinten gleich (Maßskizze war da standard). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.01.2023 - 14:59

country flag Helga Tong wrote:

Bei dem Modell Sentinel 174-2 fehlt in der Anleitung beim Stricken der Halspasse die Beschreibung für die Abnahme des vorderen Halsaussschnites (Gr. XL). Laut Schnittzeichnung ist dieser auch, wie üblich, im Voderteil 5 cm tiefer als im Rückenteil. Komme jetzt nicht weiter, weil mir die Anleitung dazu fehlt. Bitte um baldige Hilfe.

23.01.2023 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Tong, die 5 cm bei der Schulter in der Maßskizze ist die Höhe für den Schulter, nicht für die Erhöhung, bei diesem Modell gibt es keine Erhöhug, so sind beide Halsausschnitte vorne und hinten gleich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.01.2023 - 14:53

country flag Ria wrote:

You say (Repeat dec on every other round 22 more times and then on every round 6 times). What do you mean? Do we make the dec on round 1,2,3,4, etc for 22 rounds or on round 2,4,6, etc?

06.01.2023 - 02:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ria, You decrease every other round (rounds 3,5,7,9 etc.) 22 more times after the first decrease on round 1, then every round for 6 rounds after that. Happy knitting!

06.01.2023 - 08:27

country flag Charlotte Wesselhoff wrote:

Jag har kommit till mönsterdel A2 När jag har stickat 1:a raden "ta 1 m löst av stickan som skulle stickas rät, sticka 2 rm, dra den lyfta m över. " då har jag minskat 2 m. Andra raden svart ruta ska vara ingen maska. Om jag tänker ingen maska så får jag bara två räta maskor men behöver 3. Hur ska jag sticka för att få tillbaka de 2 m som jag har minskat och därmed få 3 m r?

19.08.2022 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Charlotte. Det står: "ta 1 m löst av stickan som den skulle stickas rät, sticka 2 rm, dra den lyfta m över" = 1 felt maske, ikke 2. Du strikker ikke 2 rett sammen, men 2 rett masker. Da vil mønstret/maskeantallet stemme. mvh DROPS Design

22.08.2022 - 11:48

country flag Rosie wrote:

Que significa “aquí no hay punto “ No sé qué hacer ahí

01.07.2022 - 01:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Rosie, este cuadrado se refiere a la posición de un punto disminuido en la fila/ vuelta anterior. Como la representación del diagrama intenta ser 3d (indicando la posición de los puntos), usamos este símbolo para enseñar que no debería haber ningún punto ahí. A la hora de trabajar, simplemente ignora este símbolo y sigue trabajando con el siguiente símbolo en el diagrama (sin saltar nada).

02.07.2022 - 15:53