DROPS Belle uni colour 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen |
2.20 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Belle uni colour 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen 2.20 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K | |
= P | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= K 2 tog | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K/P YO |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sweet Bay |
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Knitted jumper in garter st with leaf pattern and round yoke, worked top down in DROPS Belle. Size children 3 - 14 years
DROPS Children 27-23 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 sts on each side of every marker (= 4 inc sts). Beg 1 st before marker and work as follows: 1 YO, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), 1 YO. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. YOKE: Cast on 77-77-84-84-91-91 sts on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm with Belle. Work A.1 over all sts. On rounds with YOs in A.1 finish with K 1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.2 (= 7 sts) over all sts (= 11-11-12-12-13-13 repetitions of A.2). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically there is 187-187-204-204-221-221 sts on round and piece measures approx. 10 cm. Continue with GARTER ST - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in the middle of every repetition (= 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts inc), inc with YO, P YO on next row to make holes. Repeat inc every 1-1-1½-1½-2-2 cm 0-1-1-2-1-2 more times = 198-209-228-240-247-260 sts. K 1 round while adjusting the no of sts to 200-212-224-240-252-266. Continue in garter st until piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm. Then work as follows: Work the first 31-33-35-37-39-40 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 38-40-42-46-48-52 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the next 62-66-70-74-78-82 sts (= front piece), slip the next 38-40-42-46-48-52 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 31-33-35-37-39-40 sts (= half back piece). BODY: There are now 136-144-152-160-168-174 sts for body. Insert a marker in each side of body where new sts were cast on under sleeves (= 3 new sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm 3 more times - READ INCREASE TIP = 152-160-168-176-184-190 sts. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 24-27-30-33-36-37 cm, work 3 ridges. Cast off. SLEEVE: Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm (= 38-40-42-46-48-52 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 6 sts cast on under sleeve = 44-46-48-52-54-58 sts. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve. Now measure the piece from here. Work in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm dec 1 st on each side of marker, repeat dec every 7-5-5-4-4-4 cm 2-3-3-5-5-7 more times = 38-38-40-40-42-42 sts. Continue in stocking st until sleeve measures 21-24-26-29-32-35 cm, work 3 ridges and cast off. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (74)
Florence wrote:
Combien y a t'il de marqueurs? et comment caler le motif? désolée je ne comprends pas le début. 6mailles pour les manches?
03.02.2021 - 09:12DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Florence, les seuls marqueurs décrits dans ce modèle sont pour le bas du pull, après la division. Si vous souhaitez en mettre au début, vous pouvez le faire en en mettant 1 après chaque diagramme A.2 pour bien repérer les mailles de chacun des motifs. Si je n'ai toujours pas compris votre question, je m'en excuse, merci de bien vouloir essayer de reformuler encore une fois. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!
03.02.2021 - 09:15Florence wrote:
Bonjour les marqueurs se situent où svp? merci
02.02.2021 - 17:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Florence, les marqueurs doivent être insérés de chaque côté du pull, autrement dit, au milieu des 6 mailles montées sous chaque manche (= il y a 3 des nouvelles mailles de chaque côté de chaque marqueur). Bon tricot!
03.02.2021 - 08:28Florence wrote:
Bonjour, A quel moment faut il changer d'aiguilles de 3,5 à 4?
02.02.2021 - 10:17DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Florence, l'empiècement se tricote entièrement en 3,5 - on tricote ensuite le dos/le devant et les manches séparément avec les aiguilles 4. Bon tricot!
02.02.2021 - 10:46Deborah wrote:
Das habe ich verstanden. Aber wie ich geschrieben habe, müsste die grösste Grösse eine Gesamtlänge von 56cm statt 54cm haben (analog zu anderen Drops-Anleitungen und weil die Längendifferenz zwischen allen Grössen gleich gross sein muss) und somit müssten ab Achsel 39cm statt 37cm bis vors Bördchen gestrickt werden. Dann ist nämlich auch die Differenz zwischen allen Grössen gleich gross (3cm und nicht wie aktuell zwischen den 2 grössten Grössen nur 1cm).
01.02.2021 - 09:45DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Deborah, ja stimmt, bei den älteren Modellen war die Höhe der Passe nur von der Anschlagskante gemessen, dh die Schulter war nicht in die Skizze gegeben, als wir jetzt so schreiben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
10.02.2021 - 10:03Deborah wrote:
Sorry, mein Fehler, hab nicht gesehen, dass im Diagramm das Mass nicht ab Achsel, sondern die Gesamtlänge ist. Trotzdem hat es meiner Meinung nach einen Fehler: die grösste Grösse müsste eine Gesamtlänge von 56cm statt 54cm haben (analog zu anderen Drops-Anleitungen) und somit müssten ab Achsel 39cm statt 37cm bis vors Bördchen gestrickt werden. Dann ist nämlich auch die Differenz zwischen allen Grössen gleich gross. Bei der Sweet Bay Jacket ist der gleiche Fehler drin.
30.01.2021 - 13:53DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Deborah, die Passe mist hier 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm und Rumpfteil = 24-27-30-33-36-37 cm + 3 Krausrippen am unteren Rand = ca 1 cm = 36-40-44-48- 52-54 cm. Aber gerne können Sie den Rumpfteil länger stricken, Pullover kan angezogen und die Länge je nach dem Kind angepasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
01.02.2021 - 08:48Deborah wrote:
Guten Tag! Beim Körper soll von unter den Achseln gemessen und bis vors Bördchen eine Länge von 24-27-30-33-36-37 cm gestrickt werden. Im Diagramm wird aber von der Achsel eine Länge mit Bördchen von 36-40-44-48-52-54 cm angegeben. Da das Bördchen in allen Grössen gleich hoch ist, kann es doch erstens nicht sein, dass die Differenz zwischen den Grössen von 3-3-3-3-1 cm auf 4-4-4-4-2 cm ändert, zweitens das Bördchen eine Längendifferenz von 16-17-18-15-18-17 cm ergibt.
30.01.2021 - 13:28Deborah wrote:
Guten Tag! Bei der Passe nach den Loch-Aufnahmen steht, dass in der nachfolgenden re Rd die Anzahl M angepasst werden muss. Verstehe ich richtig, dass bei Grösse 122/128 von 228 M auf 224 M reduziert werden muss und verteilt 4 M wieder abgenommen werden müssen? Und bei Grösse 98/104 wird von 198 M auf 200 M erhöht, indem irgendwo noch weitere 2 M aufgenommen werden? Vielen Dank für Ihre Klärung!
17.01.2021 - 15:31DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Deborah, ja genau so wird es gestrickt in diese beiden Größen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
18.01.2021 - 09:57Cat wrote:
Bonjour Que veut dire : aux tours avec les jetés dans A1 terminer par une m. endroit ? Si on monte 77 m. et que A1 fait 8 m. comment arrive t'on à 77 mailles ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide Cat
03.01.2021 - 21:24DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Cat, vous tricoterez 9 fois le diagramme A.1 (= 9x8 = les 72 premières mailles), puis vous tricoterez les 4 premières mailles du diagramme et terminerez par 1 maille comme la 1ère maille de A.1 mais cette maille se tricotera à l'endroit au rang avec les jetés = 72+4+1=77 m. Bon tricot
05.01.2021 - 09:44Ingvild Dragesth wrote:
Vedr. oval ring i mønsterforklaring: En øker 1 m med kastet, men dersom en strikker både en rett og en vrang i kastet neste omgang, blir det vel 2 masker økt ?
10.11.2020 - 13:09DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ingvild: Du ska kun sticka en maska i kastet på neste omgang. Det ska stickas rett/vrangt (dvs rett eller vrangt) beroende på vad det är enligt diagram på neste omg. Mvh DROPS Design
11.11.2020 - 09:52Ingvild Dragesth wrote:
Hei! Hva betyr tegnet som er en oval ring. En skal lage et kast og strikke rett/vrang i kastet tilbake. Vil det si at en strikker kastet og at det i tillegg blir øket 1 m?
10.11.2020 - 08:18DROPS Design answered:
Hei Ingvild, Når du kommer til symbolet med åpen ring, lag 1 kast (øker 1 maske). På neste pinne blir dette kastet strikket rett/vrang slik at det blir et hull som er en del av mønsteret. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!
10.11.2020 - 11:17