Prairie Fairy Jumper by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in DROPS Lima. Size children 3-12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no li-008-bn
Yarn group B
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
250-250-300-350-400 colour no 0619, beige.
100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50 colour no 6273, cerise
50-50-50-50-50 g, colour no 2923, goldenrod
50-50-50-50-50 g, colour no 9018, sea green
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 7219, pistachio

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. NOTE: It is important that the knitting tension is correct vertically to get the right shape on the round yoke.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams are worked in stocking st. See diagram for correct size.

To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

Worked in the round, top down.

Cast on 84-88-92-96-100 sts on a short circular needle size 3 mm with beige. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-3-4-4-5 cm (= neck edge). Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm. K 1 round while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 78-84-90-98-105. Then work an elevation at the back in stocking st as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 16 sts on return, turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48-48-64-64-80 sts have been worked, turn and K 1 round until marker mid back again. Then work A.1 (= 13-14-15-14-15 repetitions in width) - see diagram for size. READ KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Switch to a longer circular needle when needed. When A.1 has been worked, there are 208-224-240-252-270 sts on needle. Work 0-1-2-0-1 cm with beige. Piece now measures approx. 15-16-17-17-18 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Continue piece with beige and in stocking st. First work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-4-12-10 sts evenly = 212-228-244-264-280 sts. Work next round as follows: Work 31-33-35-37-39 sts, slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts, work 62-66-70-74-78 sts (= front piece), slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts, work 31-33-35-37-39 sts.

= 136-144-152-160-168 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker in each side, in the middle of the 6 new sts that were cast on. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm, inc 1 st on each side of markers (= 4 sts inc). Inc every 7-9-10-12-13 cm 3 times in total = 148-156-164-172-180 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 19-23-26-29-32 cm. Work A.2. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 16 sts evenly = 164-172-180-188-196 sts. Then work rib K 2, P 2. Work rib for 3 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm, cast in addition on 6 sts mid under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these sts) = 50-54-58-64-68 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with beige. When sleeve measures 2 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 4½-3½-4-3-3½ cm 5-7-7-10-10 times in total = 40-40-44-44-48 sts. When sleeve measures 18-23-27-30-34 cm, work diagram A.2, then switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.
Work the same way over the sts on the other stitch holder.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


= off white
= beige
= cerise
= sea green
= goldenrod
= pistachio
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 27-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Karin 09.09.2020 - 15:56:

Hej! Jag förstår inte hur jag ska sticka tröjan uppifrån och ner. Model nr li-008- bn . Barntröjan Prairie Fairy Jumper by drops design. Mvh Karin

DROPS Design 10.09.2020 kl. 08:05:

Hej Karin. Du börjar med halskanten för att sedan sticka en förhöjning bak. Efter det börjar du att sticka efter diagram A.1, diagrammen stickas som vanligt nerifrån och upp med början längst ner till höger. Vi har även en video som kanske kan vara till hjälp. Mvh DROPS Design

Trine 15.08.2020 - 20:33:

Hej. Jeg er ved at strikke bærestykket diag. A1 Jeg er nået til række 23, og når begyndelsen og slut mødes giver det ingen mening. Så jeg er jo bange for at jeg har strikket forkert. Det ser fint ud hele vejen op til række 23. Og mønstret ser godt ud hele vejen rundt bortset fra slut. Jeg er helt ny i mønster strik, så vil bare være sikker. I række 23 får jeg 6 hvide(natur) istedet for 5 til slut. Er det korrekt ?

DROPS Design 24.08.2020 kl. 10:08:

Hei Trine. På rekke 23 skal du starte med 3 rett masker i natur (i alle størrelser) og avslutte med 2 rett masker i natur = 5 masker natur etter hverandre. Har du fått med alle økningene/økt for mye? For å hele tiden ha kontroll på økningene i diagrammet/diagrammene kan du bruker en merketråd / markør mellom hver rapport av diagrammet. God Fornøyelse!

Malena 08.07.2019 - 19:27:

Stickar storlek 3/4, får inte ärmens längd att stämma med måttet som är angett. Man ska minska vid varje 4,5cm totalt 5ggr, och börja med mönstret vid 18cm. Enligt min räkning blir då måttet 20cm. Vad ska ärmens längd vara då man börjar med mönstret?

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 17:55:

Hej, du börjar mönstret då ärmen mäter 18 cm. Du kan sticka de maskor som inte går upp i mönstret mitt under ärmen med bottenfärgen.

Laila Sandaas 13.05.2019 - 18:14:

Blir denne ikke veldig vid nede når man legger ut nedover? Vanligvis når man strikker nedenfra og opp luer.... man oppover

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 14:54:

Hei igjen Laila. Nederst på siden, på målskissen ser du hvor vid genseren bli nederst: 35 cm målt tvers over i størrelse 3/4 år ( altså 70 cm målt rundt). Om du ikke ønsker A-fasong kan du la vær å øke i hver side, nedover på bolen. God fornøyelse

Laila 11.05.2019 - 13:44:

Fint om dere svarer

Laila Sandaas 10.05.2019 - 21:36:

Etter vrangbord, ta inn til 78 masker, så kommer mønster 3 natur 1oker, ......4 masker går ikke opp 78

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 14:51:

Hei Laila. Du har 78 masker på pinnen, og skal nå strikke etter diagram A.1. For størrelse 3/4 år går diagram A.1 over 6 masker. 78/6 = 13 hele rapporter av A.1. Diagrammene lese på vanlig måte: nedenfra og opp, fra høyre mot venstre. Jeg vet ikke helt hvor du får 3 natur, 1 oker fra - det er ingen omganger i mønsteret som går slik. Tips til neste gang du har et spørsmål: om du velger riktig nasjonalitet vil spørsmålet raskere oppdages av de som svarer på norske henvendelser. God fornøyelse

Eva Damholt 03.02.2019 - 19:13:

Jeg vil gerne strikke denne sweater i den største størrelse, men jeg har købt Drops baby alpaca silk. Hvordan omregner jeg maskeantal til den lidt tyndere garn? mvh eva

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 13:10:

Hei Eva. Da bør du ta utgangspunkt i den strikkefastheten du får i Baby Alpaca Silk, og gange med antall cm slik at du får nytt maskeantall. Feks får du 24 maskr x 32 pinner = 10 x 10 cm kan du ta cm-målet du ønsker i bredden og gange med 2,4 = nytt maskeantall. Ideelt bør du tilpasse maskeantallet så det går opp i hele mønsterrapporter - slik at arbeidet blir så pent som mulig. Vær obs på at garnforbruket ditt vil være høyere enn med Lima. God fornøyelse.

Joke De Groot 23.09.2018 - 14:48:

Wat is de beste manier om deze trui met ronde pas te blocken / op te spannen ?

DROPS Design 23.09.2018 kl. 21:07:

Dag Joke, Er is niet een speciale manier voor het blocken van een trui met ronde pas, dus dit kun je op dezelfde manier doen zoals je het gewend bent. (Bij een dergelijke wollen trui kun je hem een beetje bevochtigen en tussen 2 handdoeken op een matras (of vergelijkbare ondergrond) leggen en laten drogen.

DANIELA PONTRELLI 24.08.2018 - 11:12:


DROPS Design 24.08.2018 kl. 13:20:

Buongiorno Daniela, dovrebbe fare un campione e rifare tutti i calcoli delle maglie per adattare la taglia. Purtroppo non possiamo fornire un aiuto così personalizzato, ma può sicuramente rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Melanie 21.07.2018 - 09:15:

Ich habe eine Frage zum Muster A 1. Hier fehlt ein Hinweis zu den Zunahmen, nach dem Muster sollen 252 Maschen auf der Nadel sein, wo und wann sollen die zugenommen werden ? Danke

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 07:35:

Liebe Melanie, die Zunahmen für die Rundpasse sind schon im A.1 gezeichnet, dh Sie werden wie im Diagram mit 1 Umschlag (am Anfang bzw am Ende jeder Rapport) zunehmen: 1. Zunahmen in 3/4-5/6-7/8 ist am Anfang der 4. Runde gestrickt und in 9/10-11/12 am Ende der 5. Runde gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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