DROPS / 172 / 13

Erendis by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Erendis / DROPS 172-13 - Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with lace pattern in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-108
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 4314, grey purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repetition of A.2 measures approx. 4 cm in width.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edge in garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes (work inc sts in garter st).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Inc 2 sts mid under sleeve as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker, make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st inside 2 edge sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 2 edge st: Beg 2 sts before the 2 edge sts and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 2 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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JUMPER:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle in sections. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 103-111-121-133-147-163 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work next row from RS as follows: Work 3-7-12-18-19-21 sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the next 96-96-96-96-108-120 sts (= 8-8-8-8-9-10 repetitions of 12 sts), work first st in A.1 and finish with 3-7-12-18-19-21 sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, there are 87-95-105-117-129-143 sts on needle. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 the same way with 3-7-12-18-19-21 sts in garter st in each side (repeat A.2 upwards). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 12 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 5-5-5½-6-8-8 cm 5-5-5-5-4-4 times in total = 97-105-115-127-137-151 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off the first 3-3-4-6-7-9 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes. Now dec for armhole as follows - READ DECREASE TIP:
Size S + M: Dec 1 st each side every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 2-6 times.
Size L + XL + XXL + XXXL: Dec 1 st each side every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 9-13-13-13 times.
When dec for armhole are done, 87-87-89-89-97-107 sts remain on needle. Continue A.2 as before with 3-3-4-4-3-3 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cast off the middle
33-33-35-35-37-39 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 1 st 2 times = 25-25-25-25-28-32 sts remain on shoulder - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern towards the neck in stocking st when dec. After neck dec continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards neck and 3-3-4-4-3-3 sts in garter st towards armhole until 2 rows remain before piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before loosely casting off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 50-52-53-55-56-58 cm. Now slip the middle 21-21-23-23-23-25 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Finish each shoulder separately. AT THE SAME TIME continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2-2-2-2-3-3 times = 25-25-25-25-28-32 sts remain on shoulder - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern towards the neck in stocking st when dec. After neck dec continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards neck and 3-3-4-4-3-3 sts in garter st towards armhole until 2 rows remain before piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm - adjust according to back piece. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS before loosely casting off with K from RS.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when there are enough sts.
Cast on 43-45-47-51-53-55 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm, work next round as follows: 15-16-17-19-20-21 sts in stocking st, A.3 (= 13 sts), 15-16-17-19-20-21 sts in stocking st. Continue pattern like this. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 over the middle 3 sts until finished measurements (continue the other sts in stocking st). AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 10-10-10-9-9-9 cm, insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). On next round inc 2 sts mid under sleeve 16-19-21-22-24-25 times in total – READ INCREASE TIP-2 as follows: In size S: On every 7th round, in size M: On every 6th round, in size L + XL: On every 5th round, in size XXL: Alternately on every 4th and 5th round and size XXXL: On every 4th round = 75-83-89-95-101-105 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-46-46-45 cm, cast off the middle 6 sts under sleeve and work sleeve cap back and forth until finished measurements on circular needle. Continue in stocking st and with A.4 over the middle 3 sts and cast off for sleeve cap in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3-4-4-5 times and 1 st 3-3-3-5-6-6 times in each side, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, sleeve measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge with grafting/kitchener stitches so that there are 2 ridges on top of shoulder.
Sew side seams – sew edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts from armhole and down but stop when approx. 10-12 cm remain in each side (= vent). Place sleeves in under edge in garter st in each side and fasten neatly with small stitches (edge in garter st in armhole should be on the outside of sleeve).

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 98 to 120 sts (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on circular needle size 3 mm. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Loosely cast off.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Melanie 01.07.2020 - 13:01:

Hallo werden tatsächlich nur Maschen von vorne für die halsblende aufgenommen? Wie Stoll man dann in runden Stricken? Ich werd leider nicht bz schlau bei der halsblende

user icon DROPS Design 01.07.2020 kl. 15:36:

Liebe Melanie, die Maschen sollen von der Vorderseite aufgefassen werden, bzw 1 Masche in jede abgekettenen Maschen beim Rückenteil + 1 Masche in den Reihen/Schulter nach Halsausschnitt und die stillgelegten Maschen (Vorderteil) damit stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Melanie 01.07.2020 - 11:24:

Hallo in der Anleitung steht Halsblende: von der Vorderseite Maschen aufnehmen und dann in runden Stricken Aber wenn ich nur von vorne aufnehmen kann ich doch nicht in runden Stricken ?! Oder nimmt man doch vorne und hinten Maschen auf ?

user icon DROPS Design 01.07.2020 kl. 15:33:

Liebe Melanie, die Maschen für die Halsblende werden in rund um den Halsausschnitt (=Vorder- + Rückenteil) aufgefassen und dann in runden gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Beata 19.03.2019 - 21:37:

Nie rozumiem opisu zamykania oczek pod rękaw Tył: „ROZMIARY S + M: zamknąć 1 o. z każdej strony co 4 rz. (tj. co 2 rz. na prawej stronie robótki) w sumie 2-6 razy.” Nie rozumiem ile mam tych oczek w końcu zamknąć z każdej strony.

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 22:23:

Witaj Beato! W rozmiarze S zamykasz 2 razy 1 o. z każdej strony tyłu co 4 rzędy: czyli zamykasz 1 o. na początku i na końcu rzędu na prawej stronie robótki (zamknięte 2 o.), przerabiasz 3 rzędy bez zamykania oczek i na prawej stronie robótki ponownie zamykasz 1 o. na początku i na końcu rzędu (łącznie zamknięte 4 o.). W rozmiarze M powtarzasz to samo tylko 6 razy i łącznie zostanie zamkniętych 12 o. Powodzenia!

country flag Anja Baumann 04.03.2019 - 17:54:

Hej. Syntes ikke jeg kan se brystmål på denne opskrift. Ang. Køb af nøgler.

user icon DROPS Design 11.03.2019 kl. 09:07:

Hei Anja. Nederst på siden finner du en målskisse med alle plaggets mål i alle størrelser. God fornøyelse

country flag Valerie 11.12.2018 - 00:21:

What kind of ”BabyAlpaca Silk” please? is is thin or thick please advice thank you valerie

user icon DROPS Design 11.12.2018 kl. 08:51:

Dear Valerie, this pattern is using our DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk - click here to read more about this yarn. Happy knitting!

country flag Karina 13.11.2018 - 11:11:

Vielen Dank für diese tolle Anleitung. Der Pullover ist superschön geworden.

country flag Turid Nesje Andresen 09.07.2018 - 09:48:

Kan jeg strikke denne genseren med bare riller, ikke hullmønster?

user icon DROPS Design 10.07.2018 kl. 09:35:

Hej Turid, Ja men da må du sørge for at få 23 m på 10 cm i bredden og så skal du følge målene i højden som der i opskriften. Med riller vil der gå flere pinde i højden på 10 cm end hvis du strikker hulmønster, det vil siger at du muligvis også skal bruge 2 nøgler mere af DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. God fornøjelse!

country flag Beate 21.02.2018 - 21:44:

Liebes Drops-Design-Team, ich stricke gerade dieses tolle Modell. Ich frage mich jedoch, ob nach Fertigstellung der einzelnen Teile und vor dem Zusammennähen, diese gespannt oder gedämpft werden dürfen/können. Vielen Dank im Voraus für eine Rückmeldung.

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2018 kl. 08:50:

Liebe Beate, einige Strickerinnen spannen gerne jedes Teil vor dem Zusammennähen und andere spannen lieber fertige Strickstück, machen Sie das einfach wie Sie gewöhnt sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Jayne Bradbury 16.02.2018 - 15:58:

I am having some trouble understanding why the pattern tells me to increase on the back when the diagram clearly shows the back going in at the waist. Seems like I should be decreasing rather than increasing. Help!

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2018 kl. 16:36:

Dear Mrs Bradbury, the decreases at the bottom of body are made while working diagram A.1, then work diagram A.2 and increase on each side. Happy knitting!

country flag Marianna Di Labio 17.10.2017 - 16:28:

Io dopo i giri di legaccio me le ritrovo tutte a rovescio... devo creare io la prima alternanza dir/rov.... sono un pò arrugginita!!!!!!

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