DROPS / 171 / 6

Candy Lane Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and pattern border, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Candy Lane Cardigan / DROPS 171-6 - Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and pattern border, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no u-800
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
450-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 77, light oak
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 65, denim blue
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 40, light old pink
colour no 50, green
colour no 52, dark mustard
colour no 64, grey purple

NOTE: Jacket worked in one colour = 600-650-700-750-850-950 g Karisma.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS METAL BUTTON (uneven), NO 534: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for correct size (applies to A.1). Work entire pattern in stocking st.

INCREASE TIP (applies to round yoke):
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 86 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 25) = 3.02. I.e. in this example inc after approx. every third st (do not inc over bands). Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes (inc both from RS and WS).

KNITTING TIP:
If the knitting tension is wrong vertically and the garment is worked to tight, it will be too short and the armhole will be too small - this can be adjusted by working 1 extra row evenly in the sections in one colour.
NOTE: If the garment is too loose, it will be too long and the armhole too big, this can be adjusted by working 1 row less in the sections in one colour.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (dec sts + the 2 middle sts under sleeve are worked in light oak the entire sleeve).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). Dec from RS when 3 sts remain on row as follows: Make 1 YO, K the next 2 sts tog, K last st. On next round K the YO to make a hole.
Dec for buttonhole on first row from RS after edge in garter st in neck. Then dec the next 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes approx. 8 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 86-90-92-96-98-102 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with light oak. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, K 1 row from RS while inc 25-25-27-31-33-33 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 111-115-119-127-131-135 sts - remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above. For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Insert 1 marker mid back. Beg from WS with light oak and P until 13-13-14-15-16-17 sts have been worked past marker (K band), turn, tighten yarn and K 26-26-28-30-32-34. Turn, tighten yarn and P 39-39-42-45-48-51 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 52-52-56-60-64-68 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and P 65-65-70-75-80-85 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 78-78-84-90-96-102 sts back. turn and P the rest of row (K band).
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 6 sts remain on row (choose diagram for correct size), work first st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same in each side towards mid front) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc evenly every row marked with arrow in diagram as explained below - READ INCREASE TIP, KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION.
Arrow-1 Inc 40-42-44-50-56-62 sts = 151-157-163-177-187-197 sts.
Arrow-2 Inc 40-42-44-50-56-62 sts = 191-199-207-227-243-259 sts.
Arrow-3 Inc 30-36-38-44-48-52 sts = 221-235-245-271-291-311 sts.
Arrow-4 Inc 30-34-36-40-44-48 sts = 251-269-281-311-335-359 sts.
Arrow-5 Inc 26-30-34-38-38-38 sts = 277-299-315-349-373-397 sts.
Arrow-6 Inc 16-24-32-34-34-34 sts = 293-323-347-383-407-431 sts.
When A.1 has been worked, piece measures approx. 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm mid front (incl edge in garter st in neck). Work next row as follows from WS with light oak: Work 46-50-53-59-64-69 sts as before (= right front piece), slip the next 59-67-73-79-81-83 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts (= in the side), work 83-89-95-107-117-127 sts in stocking st (= back piece), slip the next 59-67-73-79-81-83 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts (= in the side), work the remaining 46-50-53-59-64-69 sts as before (= left front piece).
Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 191-205-221-245-269-293 sts. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! On first row (= RS) inc 0-2-2-2-2-2 sts evenly AT THE SAME TIME work as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 6 sts remain on row, work first st in A.2 (so that pattern beg and ends the same in each side towards mid front) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st (do not inc over bands) = 191-207-223-247-271-295 sts. Continue pattern like this and inc evenly every row marked with arrow in diagram as explained below - REMEMBER INCREASE TIP.
Arrow-1 Inc 12-10-10-6-6-6 sts = 203-217-233-253-277-301 sts.
Arrow-2 Inc 18-18-16-10-14-18 sts = 221-235-249-263-291-319 sts.
Arrow-3 Inc 14-14-14-14-14-14 sts = 235-249-263-277-305-333 sts.
Arrow-4 Inc 8-10-12-14-18-14 sts = 243-259-275-291-323-347 sts.
When diagram A.2 has been worked, continue in stocking st with light oak until finished measurements. When piece measures 34 cm from marker (jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder), switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 3 ridges in garter st (work first row from RS), switch back to needle size 4 mm and LOOSELY cast off with K from RS. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
READ ENTIRE SLEEVE BEFORE WORKING (inc row in A.2 does not apply to sleeve)!
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Slip the 59-67-73-79-81-83 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm and pick in addition 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts cast on under sleeve on body = 67-75-83-89-93-97 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and 1 marker in the middle st on round (= mid on top of sleeve). Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 but on every pattern border count the beg of pattern out from mid st in pattern (see arrow in diagram – mid st in pattern should fit st with marker on top of sleeve). NOTE: The pattern will not fit mid under sleeve - work as much pattern as possible but always work the 4 middle sts mid under sleeve in light oak. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec a total of 13-16-19-21-22-23 times: in Size S: On every 8th round, in size M: On every 6th round, in size L: On every 5th round, in size XL: On every 4th round, in size XXL + XXXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round = 41-43-45-47-49-51 sts. When it has been worked up to arrow with dot marked in A.2, work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 the same way. After A.3 work in stocking st with light oak until sleeve measures 42-40-39-38-36-35 cm from division under sleeve (or desired length). Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 4 mm and LOOSELY cast off with K. Sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-40-38-37 cm from division under sleeve. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = light oak
symbols = light old pink
symbols = dark mustard
symbols = green
symbols = grey purple
symbols = denim blue
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = inc row
symbols = mid st
symbols = stop after this round on sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Bodil Riise Bjørnebye 26.04.2019 - 11:09:

Fargene på bildet og fargene i virkeligheten er helt forskjellig. Mye finere på bildet, så jeg ble så skuffet, men strikker likevel med fargene jeg har fått tilsendt.

country flag Mirja Kraack 16.01.2017 - 15:15:

Hallo, ich habe das Rumpfteil fertig und bin beim Ärmel angelangt, dass ich zu A3 wechseln soll. Irgendwie passt aber weder das Muster noch die Farbe zu dem Foto mit der Jacke. Wie geht's richtig? Viele Grüße Mirja

Laura 11.06.2016 - 08:03:

A really pretty & feminine design - love it - please include!

country flag Ynke 05.06.2016 - 12:17:

Beauty!

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