DROPS / 173 / 5

Black Ice by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in "Nepal". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-217
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour no 0100, off white
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 0506, dark grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 6 mm – for neck.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 148 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 34) = 4.3. I.e. in this example K approx. every 3rd and 4th st tog.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Beg 1 sts before marker and make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

See diagrams A.1 to A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

First work back and forth on circular needle in 2 parts, then put piece tog and work in the round on circular needle.

Cast on 92-100-112-124-132-148 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with off white. P 1 row from WS, then work as follows from RS: 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, K 2, rib (= P 2/K 2) until 3 sts remain, finish with 3 sts in garter st. When rib measures 8 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm, K 1 row while dec 20-22-28-28-30-34 sts evenly = 72-78-84-96-102-114 sts - READ DECREASE TIP. Continue in stocking st with 3 sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 18 cm. Put piece aside and knit front piece the same way.

Slip the 2 parts tog on to same circular needle size 5,5 then work in the round over all sts = 144-156-168-192-204-228 sts. Continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm, work A.1 over all sts (= 12-13-14-16-17-19 repetitions in width) - READ KNITTING TIP. When 1 round remains in A.1 (piece measures approx. 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm), work next round as follows (= last round in A.1): Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole, work 66-72-76-88-92-104 sts (= front piece), cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work 66-72-76-88-92-104 sts (= back piece) and cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Switch to a short circular needle when enough sts have been inc. Cast on 52-52-52-56-56-56 sts on double pointed needle size 4.5 mm with off white. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 6 cm. K 1 round while dec 12 sts evenly in all sizes = 40-40-40-44-44-44 sts. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and work in stocking st with off white. When piece measures 11-11-13-13-10-12 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 3½-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm 10-11-12-12-13-15 times in total = 60-62-64-68-70-74 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-24-23-23-23-22 cm, work A.1, arrow in A.1 shows middle of sleeve, count outwards from arrow and work so that pattern is the same in both sides, work the inc sts in pattern, NOTE: Pattern will not fit one whole repetition. On last round in A.1 (piece measures 43-43-42-42-42-41 cm, NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts mid under sleeve = 54-56-56-60-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5.5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 240-256-264-296-304-336 sts. Work first round in A.2 AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 234-252-270-288-306-324. Continue pattern and dec as shown in A.2 (= 13-14-15-16-17-18 repetitions). READ KNITTING TIP! When A.2 has been worked - see arrow for your size, there are 130-140-150-160-153-162 sts on round. K 1 round while at the same time dec 34-44-50-56-49-54 sts evenly = 96-96-100-104-104-108 sts.

Insert 1 marker mid front. Beg mid back and work an elevation at the back on circular needle size 5.5 mm with off white as follows: K until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker, turn and P until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until mid back. Piece measures 66-68-70-73-75-77 cm from bottom edge to shoulder.

= 96-96-100-104-104-108 sts. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST – see explanation above, switch to a short circular needle size 6 mm, then work rib in the round (K 2/P 2). Continue with rib until piece measures 22-22-22-24-24-24 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


= off white
= dark grey
= K 2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Annette 10.10.2019 - 11:56:

Hvor lang skal trøjen strikkes inde man starter på rapport A. Da jeg syntes at den ik bliver så lang som man kan se på billedet. Jeg strikker den i L og strikke fastheden passer

DROPS Design 10.10.2019 kl. 14:12:

Hej igen Annette, du starter på A.1 når arbejdet måler totalt 23 cm i str L. Da stemmer målene i resten af opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Stefanie 27.12.2018 - 14:25:

Wie viele Maschen müssen für das Rumpfteil angeschlagen werden?

DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 10:07:

Liebe Stefanie, Rücken und Vorderteil werden zuerst genauso gestrickt: 92-100-112-124-132-148 M anschlagen die dann zu 72-78-84-96-102-114 M nach den Bündchen abgenommen werden - dann werden beide Teilen in Runden gestrickt = 144-156-168-192-204-228 M . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Astasia Leblanc 18.12.2018 - 18:58:

Does this pattern start from the bottom up or top to the bottom???

DROPS Design 19.12.2018 kl. 08:57:

Dear Mrs Leblanc, this jumper is worked bottom up, first work the bottom of back and front piece separately for the vents on the side, then work them together in the round to the armholes. Work now the sleeves separately and now work yoke in the round to the elevation on back piece (worked back and forth), then work neck edge. Happy knitting!

Susanne Thesbjerg 13.12.2018 - 15:07:

Ang. ærmerne; Skal man starte med mønster A1 lige efter udtagning (midt på ærmet) eller? Kan ikke få det til at passe, når man skal strikke de nye masker med. Venlig hilsen Susanne Thesbjerg

Anita Gregersen 02.11.2018 - 09:58:

Jeg vil gerne strikke denne bluse. Men jeg syntes at Garner er for tykt. Findes der noget garn uden uld? Som måske passer til pinde 3,5 og 4

DROPS Design 02.11.2018 kl. 14:55:

Hei Anita. Det er strikkefastheten som avgjør hvilke garn du kan strikke med og hvilken pinnestørrelse du trenger. Denne er strikket med garn fra garngruppe C, og alle garn i denne gruppen har i utgangspunktet samme strikkefasthet. Bomull-Lin og Paris begge bomullsbaserte garn i garngruppe C, om du ikke vil strikke med ull. Vær obs på at bomull har andre kvaliteter enn ull og genseren vil derfor ikke se helt ut som på bildet. Om du vil strikke med tynnere garn anbefaler vi at du finner en oppskrift som er skrevet med garn fra gruppe A eller B, da målene på denne genseren vil bli endret om du har en annen strikkefasthet enn angitt. God fornøyelse.

Helle Zinck Høegh 21.10.2018 - 14:58:

Kan man ikke med fordel atrikke den på rundpind fra starten? Hvad er tanken med at starte med at strikke frem og tilbage de første 18 cm? Super flot, jeg glæder mig til at komme i gang :)

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 07:58:

Hei Helle. Du strikker forstykke og bakstykke hver for seg de første 18 cm fordi det skal være en splitt i hver side. God fornøyelse.

Chrystel Bouché 15.10.2018 - 08:38:

Vous nous demandez de réunir les manches avec le tronc du pull alors que notre ouvrage ne mesure que 39 cm est-ce normal ( 18cm d'uni et 18 cm de A1) ? Alors que sur le patron dessiné la réunification s'opère à 66cm. A quel moment me suis-je trompée? Merci d'avance Chrystel

DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 10:59:

Bonjour Mme Bouché, les 66 cm indiqués à gauche du schéma représentent la longueur totale du pull à partir de l'épaule. En taille S, on rabat les mailles des emmanchures à 40 cm (= au dernier tour de A.1). Bon tricot!

Smile 03.09.2018 - 15:53:

Hallo, waarom word het voorpand en achterpand niet meteen van begin af aan samen op een rondbreinaald gebreit? Dat is toch veel gemakkelijker.

DROPS Design 06.09.2018 kl. 11:11:

Dag Smile, Er is niet een speciale reden voor; je kunt er ook voor kiezen om de voor- en achterpanden vanaf het begin in de rondte te breien. Je hoeft dan geen kantsteken te breien.

Lousha 18.07.2018 - 20:23:

Mistakes in the A.2? End of row 8 the pattern will be off. There should be 3 white ss between every grey-white-grey ss. But according to the chart after the last g-w-g you k2tog, that makes ONE stitch, then start the chart with ONE white. This way it's 2 whites instead of 3. In the next row this causes 4 whites instead of 5 if you look at the end and the beginning of the chart. Also k2tog in rows 43 and 50 schould indicate grey.

DROPS Design 19.07.2018 kl. 09:26:

Dear Lousha, when you repeat the diagram in width make sure to continue the pattern as it should look at, so that the st in grey on 9th round should be on the right place. When you decrease in A.1 you should dec in the background colour, ie on row 49, K2 tog with grey. Happy knitting!

Lavendeltje 17.03.2018 - 18:20:

Hallo, ik heb heel wat truien gebreid in het verleden, maar een trui op een rondbreinaald is voor mij nieuw. Daarbij zie ik ook geen omschrijving van een voorpand, alleen van een achterpand... ? Ik wil deze trui heel graag breien, maar zoals ik het patroon bekijk, lijkt het onbegonnen werk. Mvg

DROPS Design 19.03.2018 kl. 07:49:

Hallo Lavendeltje, Het voor en achterpand worden eerst los van elkaar gebreid (evt. kun je dit eerste )ook op rechte naalden doen. (Aan het eind van de paragraaf staat dat je het voorpand op dezelfde manier als het achterpand breit.). Daarna zet je beide panden samen op een rondbreinaald en brei je in de rondte. Het is eerst even wennen op een rondbreinaald, maar na verloop van tijd gaat het je steeds makkelijker af. Bekijk evt. wat instructievideo's. In deze video zie bijvoorbeeld hoe je tricotsteek in de rondte breit. Succes!

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