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Tahiti by DROPS Design
Crochet DROPS bikini with lace pattern and ties in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.
Yarn group A
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BIKINI TOP:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color no 11, strong yellow
BIKINI PANTIES:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150-150 g color no 11, strong yellow
NOTE: Yarn amount is given for each piece, but if both pieces are made in one color you will need 200-200-200-250-250-250 g Safran in total.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm/C – or size needed to get 28 dc x 16 rows and 28 sc x 35 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Safran 100% Cotton |
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On first row in piece work first dc in 5th ch from hook (= 2 dc).
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch.
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BIKINI TOP:
First work 2 loose bra cups. The work the 2 bra cups tog.
BRA CUP:
Work 21-24-27-27-32-38 ch with Safran on hook size 2.5 mm/C. Work back and forth as follows (1st row = from RS): Work 1 dc in 5th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, then work 1 dc in each of the next 15-18-21-21-26-32 ch, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the last ch on row, rotate piece, skip last ch (i.e. ch just worked in) and continue with 1 dc in each of the remaining 17-20-23-23-28-34 ch on the other side of ch-row = 38-44-50-50-60-72 dc + 1 ch. Turn piece and continue back and forth with 1 dc in every dc on each side of ch-row and work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) around ch at the top of each row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue like this until 11-12-13-14-14-15 rows in total with dc have been worked, but on last row adjust no of sts so that there are 40-44-48-52-56-64 dc on each side of ch at the top (= 80-88-96-104-112-128 dc in total). Piece measures approx. 7-7½-8-9-9-9½ cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-3½"-3 3/4" from ch-row and outwards. NOTE: Next row worked is from RS. I.e. the yarn must be cut in size S, L and XXXL before continuing.
Now work an edge as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work * 1 dc, ch 1, skip next dc *, repeat from *-* until 2 dc remain before ch at the top of bra cup, work 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc (= last dc before ch at the top), work (1 ch, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, 1 ch) around ch, then work the same way but reversed down on opposite side of bra cup as follows: Work 1 dc in first dc after ch at the top, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, continue with * ch 1, skip next dc, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the row.
ROW 2: Turn and work 1 sc in first dc, * work ch 3, skip (1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch), 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* up to ch at the top of bra cup but work last sc around the middle ch at the top of bra cup. Then work ch for tie by working ch for 85-90-90-95-100-100 cm / 33½"-35½"-35½"-37½"-39½"-39½" (measured from the top of bra cup). Turn and work 1 sl st in every ch. NOTE: Make sure that sl sts does not tighten ch row. Then work reversed of the other side of bra cup as follows: 1 sc around ch-space at the top of bra cup (i.e. there are 2 sc around same ch-space), * work ch 3, skip (1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch), 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* down along the entire edge. Cut the yarn.
Work another bra cup the same way.
Now work the 2 bra cups tog into a top. NOTE: Make sure to work over both bra cups seen from RS.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 47-56-65-75-84-98 loose ch and insert a marker in the first ch worked (work an edge beg from this marker later in piece). Then work 48-50-53-56-59-62 sc evenly around the outermost dc/sc (i.e. along edge at the bottom on one bra cup), work 1 ch (= between the 2 bra cups), work 48-50-53-56-59-62 sc evenly around the outermost dc/sc (i.e. along edge at the bottom on the other bra cup), them work 47-56-65-75-84-98 loose ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) at the end of row = 191-213-237-263-287-321 sts.
ROW 2: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 sc), work 1 sc in each of the next 3-5-7-3-5-5 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 5-6-7-9-10-12 more times (= 41-49-57-65-73-85 sc), now work 1 sc in each of the next 97-101-107-113-119-125 sc/ch, * work 1 sc in each of the next ch 6, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 5-6-7-9-10-12 more times, work 1 sc in each of the last 5-7-9-5-7-7 ch (= 41-49-57-65-73-85 sc) = 179-199-221-243-265-295 sc on row.
ROW 3: Work 1 dc in each of the first 5 sc, * work ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* until 4 sc remain, work 1 dc in each of the last 4 sc.
ROW 4: Work 1 sc in every dc and around every ch.
Repeat 3rd and 4th row 2-2-2-3-3-3 more times.
Then work as follows:
Work 1 sc in each of the first 5-8-5-6-6-6 sc, * work 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, work ch 3, work 1 sl st in last sc worked (= picot), 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* until 6-8-6-6-7-7 sc remain, work 1 sc in each of the last 6-8-6-6-7-7 sc. Fasten off.
EDGE:
Now work an edge, beg from marker. NOTE: Skip the ch sts not worked.
Work as follows from RS:
Work 1 sc in each of the first ch 5, * work 1 sc in next ch, ch 3, 1 sl st in last sc worked (= picot), work 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* until 1-4-2-0-3-0 ch remain before bra cup, work 1 sc in each of the next 1-4-2-0-3-0 ch and 1 sc in corner in transition for bra cup. Then work * 1 sc around first ch-space on bra cup, ch 3, 1 sc around same ch-space, work 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* up to strap on bra cup. Now work in sl st row:* 1 sc in each of the first 3 sl sts, ch 3, 1 sl st in last sc worked *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-4-5-5 more times, work 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 sl st in next sl st. Now do not work up along the strap but turn and work down towards bra cup again: Work 1 sl st through 1 ch on the back of strap and continue with edge the same way but reversed in ch-row on strap, then along opposite side of bra cup, work 1 sc in ch between the 2 bra cups. Continue with edge the same way as on first bra cup and strap and then along the remaining ch cast on. Fasten off.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew a tunnel for the ties in each side of top as follows: Fold the 1st dc/sc inwards on WS so that it meets the 5th dc/sc and sew neatly tog through both layers. Place ties in a cross on the back and thread ends of tie through tunnel - see A.1.
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BIKINI PANTIES:
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch.
DEC ON SC-ROW:
Dec 1 sc in each side on a row as follows:
Work 1 sc, * insert hook in next st, get thread *, repeat from *-*, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook. Then work 1 sc in every st until 3 sts remain on row, repeat dec in the next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc in each side on a row as follows:
Work 2 sc in first sc, work 1 st in every sc until 1 sc remains, work 2 sc in last sc.
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BIKINI PANTIES:
Work bikini panties in sc with an edge on front and back piece and ties in the sides. Start at top of front piece and work in one until back piece.
Work 80-90-95-105-110-120 ch on hook size 2.5 mm/C/2 with Safran. Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 sc) - READ CROCHET INFO, then work 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 14-17-18-20-21-23 more times = 65-73-77-85-89-97 sc. Then work 1 sc in every sc, and on next row dec 1 sc in each side as follows - READ DECREASE TIP: Dec every 3rd row 13-13-14-14-16-16 times, every other row 6-9-9-10-10-13 times, every row 2-2-2-4-3-3 times and on every other row 2 times in all sizes = 19-21-23-25-27-29 sc. Piece measures 16-18-19-20-21-23 cm / 6 1/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4". REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue with 1 sc in every sc until piece measures 21-23-25-26-28-30 cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4". On next row inc 1 st in each side as follows: Inc every other row 2 times in all sizes, every row 0-2-3-5-8-13 times and every other row 31-32-32-31-31-29 times = 85-93-97-101-109-117 sc. Continue with 1 sc in every sc until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-55 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20½"-21½". Cut the yarn. Now work an edge and ties as follows:
EDGE AND TIES:
Work an edge on back piece as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 1 dc in first sc, * work ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. Cut the yarn.
ROW 2: Work loose ch for approx. 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8'', then continue over edge at the back as follows: * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, work 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, then work ch for 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''.
ROW 3: Turn piece and work 1 sl st in every ch on tie (make sure to avoid tight sl sts), then continue over edge at the back as follows: Work 1 sc in first sc, * 2 sc around ch-space, ch 3, 1 sl st in last sc worked, 1 sc around same ch-space, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, and continue with 1 sl st in every ch worked for tie in the side. Fasten off.
Work an edge on front piece as follows:
Work 1 sc in every sc. NOTE: Skip the ch sts not worked = 65-73-77-85-89-97 sc. Then work an edge and ties as on back piece.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-15) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (53)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogs and 10519 patterns - 10515 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hej. I starten af opskriften for Tahiti bikini-toppen er det beskrevet, at man i slutningen af rækken skal “vride” arbejdet. Hvad menes det med “vride”? Betyder det at fortsætte med de luftmasker, som blev slået op? Mvh Christina
13.07.2021 - 10:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej Christina, ja du hækler ligesom rundt om/på begge sider af samme luftmaskerække :)
13.07.2021 kl. 15:09Hab es hingekriegt :) :) :) tausend Dank. Toll, dass es diese Seite gibt, die wunderschönen Anleitungen und die schnelle Hilfe hier auf der Seite. Liebe Grüße, Susanne
22.06.2021 - 21:36Noch eine Frage: Die Lm zwischen jeweils den beiden Stb wird nur aus dem Faden geholt oder muss ich dabei auch in die Lm einstechen? Dann würde es eigentlich eine feste Mache ergeben? Danke ;) Auch wenn ich so viele Fragen stelle, die Videos sind toll...
22.06.2021 - 16:39DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susanne, leider verstehe nicht ganz was Sie hier meinen, am Ende der 1. Hälfte (in die erste Luftmasche der Luftmaschenkette) häkeln Sie 2 Stb + 1 Lm + 2 Stb, dann bei jeder den nächsten Reihen häkeln Sie wieder (2 Stb, 1 Lm, 2 Stb) um diese mittlere Lm (= in der Mitte der Reihe = oben am Cup. Kann es Ihnen helfen?
23.06.2021 kl. 07:44Noch eine Ergänzung zu den Fragen von eben: wenn ich die Arbeit um 180 Grad gewendet habe um auf der anderen Seite der Lm-Reihe weiter zu häkeln, muss ich doch wieder 3 Wende-Lm häkeln und dann das erste Stäbchen, oder? Vielen Dank. LG, Susanne
22.06.2021 - 15:01DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susanne, (siehe vorrige Antwort unten) die 3 Luftmaschen werden nur als 1. Stb am Anfang jeder Reihe gehäkelt, 1 ganze Reihe hier beginnt mit 1 Stb in die 4. Luftmaschen von der Nadel, dann häkeln Sie die eine Seite von der Luftmaschenkette, 2 Stb, 1 Lm, 2 Stb in die letzte Lm, und wieder auf die andere Seite von der Luftmaschenkette, dann nun wenden und die nächste Reihe mit 3 Lm (als 1. Stb) anfangen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
22.06.2021 kl. 16:38Hallo liebes Drops-Team. Bin am Anfang der Cups. Habe die Wendeluftmaschen+1+18 Stäbchen fertig und noch 4 Lm übrig. Die 2Stb+1Lm+2Stb sollen in die letzte Lm gehäkelt werden? Dann müsste ich 3 Lm überspringen. Ist das richtig? Nach dem Drehen der Arbeit um 180 Grad, weiß ich nicht, wo ich genau weitermachen soll. Gibt es dazu auch ein Video? Ich bin absoluter Anfänger. Danke für Ihre Unterstützung. Viele Grüße, Susanne
22.06.2021 - 14:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susanne, das Anfang vom Cups wird beidseitig von der Luftmaschenkette gehäkelt (wie z.B. hier nur wird hier nicht am Ende der Reihe mit 1 fM geschlossen aber am Ende der Reihe gewendet um Hin und Rückreihen zu häkeln). Dh, nach 2 Stb+1 Lm+1 Stb, häkeln Sie jetzt 1 Stb in die andere Seite von der Luftmaschenkette von Anfant, dh 1 Stb in jeder die nächsten 20 Luftmaschen (= 18 Stb + 1 Stb in die 4. Lm am Anfang der Reihe + 3 Lm als 1. Stb bei der 1. Hälfte). Hoffentich kann das Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!
22.06.2021 kl. 16:35Hallo bin mit den cups dran.was meinen sie das der faden ab geschnitten werden muss und neu an setzten.wo muss ich den Faden wieder neu ansetzten? Gruß Susanne
14.06.2021 - 10:21DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susanne, in die Größen S, L und XXXL wurde die letzte Reihe eine Hinreihe, und die nächste Reihe muss wieder eine Hinreihe, deshalb muss man den Faden abschneiden (= am Ende der Hinreihe) und am Anfang einer neue Rückreihe einsetzen (so haben Sie 2 Hin-reihen hintereinander). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
14.06.2021 kl. 16:24What are the finished measurements for each of the sizes?
11.06.2021 - 00:15DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jo, the measurements of the finished piece are given (in cm-s) on the shcematic drawing at the bottom of the pattern. Happy Stitching!
11.06.2021 kl. 01:44Går det an å bade med denne uten at den mister passformen?
06.07.2020 - 10:16DROPS Design answered:
Hei Eivor. Om du får tatt den av deg rett etter du har badet, klemt ut mestparten av vannet og legger den flatt til tørk, skal den beholde passformen. Men den egner seg best til en solbikini. mvh DROPS design
06.07.2020 kl. 14:44Har jeg misforstået opskriften eller er der en fejl?? Jeg synes det ser ud som om at hver anden række skal være fastmasker.... men det står da ikke i opskriften... Eller skal det forstås sådan at man hækler en række fastmasker efter hver række stangmasker... Vh Nina
21.06.2020 - 16:28DROPS Design answered:
Hei Nina. Nei, det er bare rekker med staver. Når det hekles staver frem og tilbake slik det gjøres i denne oppskriften, kan det kanskje se ut for noen at det er en fastmaske rekke mellom stavene. mvh DROPS design
22.06.2020 kl. 13:45NEL BORDO PEZZO SUPERIORE QUANDO DICE "INSERIRE UN SEGNAPUNTI" NELL 1A CATENELLA LAVORATA, INTENDE LA PRIMA CATENELLA DELLA COPPA?QUINDI LA PARTE ANTERIORE E' PIù ALTA RISPETTO AL PRIMO BORDO CHE ARRIVA SUL DIETRO?. dAL DISEGNO NON CAPISCO. GRAZIE FRANCA
25.05.2020 - 16:04DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Franca. Deve inserire il segnapunti nella prima catenella delle 47-56-65-75-84-98 catenelle che avvia quando unisce le due coppe. Più avanti, inizierà a lavorare il bordo da questo segnapunti. Buon lavoro!
26.05.2020 kl. 12:20