Little Hedda by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with lace edge and round yoke plus hair bow in garter st in DROPS Cotton Merino. For baby and children in sizes 1 month - 6 years.

DROPS Children 26-14
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-001-bn
Yarn group B
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DRESS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
200-200-250 (300-300-350) g colour no 06, red

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces in all sizes

HAIR BOW:
Measurements: Small approx. 5 x 8 cm Large approx. 9 x 12 cm
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 06, red (small bow weighs approx. 6 and large bow weighs approx. 10 g).

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
ACCESSORY: Silk ribbon or hair pin for fastening the bow.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows after 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).
Dec as follows before 3rd, 4th, 6th and 1st marker: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 sts tog (= 1 st dec).
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DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.
Cast on 217-231-245 (259-280-287) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. K 1 round, then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, 186-198-210 (222-240-246) sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 6 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-4-0 (2-4-2) sts evenly = 184-194-210 (220-236-244) sts.
Now insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker at beg of round (= side), 2nd marker after 27-29-32 (33-35-37) sts, 3rd marker after another 38-39-41 (44-48-48) sts, 4th marker after another 27-29-32 (33-35-37) sts (= side), 5th marker after another 27-29-32 (33-35-37) sts, 6th marker after another 38-39-41 (44-48-48) sts (27-29-32 (33-35-37) sts remain on round after last marker). Work in stocking st and move the markers upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st on each side of 1st and 4th marker, dec 1 st after 2nd and 5th marker and 1 st before 3rd and 6th marker – READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every 1½-1½-2 (2-2-2½) cm 11-11-12 (12-13-13) times in total = 96-106-114 (124-132-140) sts. Remove the 6 markers and insert 1 new marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 48-53-57 (62-66-70) sts (= sides). When piece measures 24-25-30 (33-36-40) cm (dec should now be done), work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work in stocking st. When piece measures 28-29-34 (37-40-44) cm, work 2 ridges in garter st over the middle 10-10-12 (12-14-14) sts in each side (i.e. over 5-5-6 (6-7-7) sts on each side of both markers – NOTE: Work the other sts in stocking st as before). On next round after the 2 ridges, cast off the middle 6-6-8 (8-10-10) sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3-3-4 (4-5-5) sts on each side of both markers) = 42-47-49 (54-56-60) sts remain on front and back piece. Cut the yarn.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Beg mid back and K over sts on half back piece, cast on 36-38-44 (46-50-56) sts over one armhole, K over front piece, cast on 36-38-44 (46-50-56) sts over the other armhole and K until mid back again = 156-170-186 (200-212-232) sts. Now work piece back and forth on circular needle from mid back as follows: K 3 rows while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row (= WS) dec 2-2-4 (4-2-8) sts evenly = 154-168-182 (196-210-224) sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.4 until 5 sts remain, finish with the first 3 sts in A.4 and 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-4-5 (6-7-8) cm from marker, dec all 4 P to 3 P by P the first 2 sts in every P-section tog. Repeat dec in every P-section when piece measures 5-6-7 (8-9-10) and 6-7-8 (9-10-11) cm = 91-99-107 (115-123-131) sts remain and there is only 1 P between every eyelet row. When piece measures approx. 7-8-9 (10-11-12) cm – adjust so that next row is a row with holes, work A.3 from RS over all sts (continue 2 edge sts in garter st as before) = 47-51-55 (59-63-67) sts remain.

NECK EDGE:
Work 2 ridges back and forth over all sts and then LOOSELY cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Crochet 2 buttonhole straps along left side on opening at the back.
1 buttonhole strap = work with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Merino as follows: 1 dc in edge st at the top by neck, 4 ch and then 1 sl st in same st as dc was worked, fasten off. Work another strap in the middle along opening. Sew buttons on to the right side of opening.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the bottom of dress on hook size 3.5 mm as follows: 1 ch in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch worked, skip 2-3 sts, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beg of round. Fasten off.
Work a similar edge at the bottom around yoke - i.e. work along bottom ridge on yoke and then along both sleeve edges.

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HAIR BOW:
Numbers in ( ) applies to large bow.
Cast on 10 (20) sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino. Work in GARTER ST – see explanation above – back and forth until piece measures 8 (12) cm, cast off.

MIDDLE BAND:
Cast on 10 (15) sts on needle size 3.5 mm and work 4 (5) ridges. Cast off. Sew the short ends tog to form a ring.

Pull the bow through the ring and fasten the two parts tog with a couple of stitches. Fasten bow with a silk ribbon or a hair pin with a couple of stitches.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.05.2019
Correction - YOKE: When piece measures approx. 7-8-9 (10-11-12) cm – adjust so that next row is a row with holes, work A.3 from RS over all sts (continue 2 edge sts in garter st as before) = 47-51-55 (59-63-67) sts remain.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 2 sts as if to K tog, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (59)

country flag Janice Leach wrote:

How do you do this dress l try to do it and it is not working for me at all

09.06.2022 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Leach, maybe you can try to explain us which part you have issues with? You can also bring your work to your store (or send them a picture per mail) so that they can see what you did and help you. And you can also ask other knitters in our DROPS Workshop showing them a picture of your work. Happy knitting!

10.06.2022 kl. 08:57

country flag Estelle wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas bien pour le modèle 3 ans : A 40 cm de hauteur, il faut faire les côtes mousse sur 14m de part et d'autre de chaque marqueur. Mais comme le 1er marqueur correspond aussi au début du rang, les 7m à gauche et les 7m à droite de ce marqueur seront donc séparées par un rang? Cela ne risque pas de se voir et de faire un décalage ? Ou bien je me trompe? En vous remerciant pour tout votre travail très apprécié !

19.05.2022 - 11:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Estelle, effectivement, vous tricotez la bordure point mousse de chaque côté du début et de la fin du tour (1er marqueur/côté), tirez légèrement le fil lorsque vous tricotez les mailles envers des côtes mousse à la transition entre 2 rangs peut vous aider à rendre la démarcation un peu moins visible, ensuite, ces mailles sont juste sous le bras et seront peu visibles. Bon tricot!

19.05.2022 kl. 16:33

country flag Lis Frandsen wrote:

Jeg bliver nødt til at henvise til mit tidligere spørgsmål vedr diagram A1 - little Hedda. Jeg er stadig i tvivl efter dit svar:\r\n‘Hej Lis, husk omslaget på hver side af de masker du strikker sammen i A.1 - god fornøjelse!’\r\n\r\nJeg kan ikke se at der i opskriften nævnes omslag på hver side af maskerne, der er strikket sammen. \r\nEr det en fejl, at der ikke står noget om det i beskrivelsen af pind 3 i diagram A1.

02.02.2022 - 11:47

country flag Lis Frandsen wrote:

Little Hedda på rundpind. Diagram A1. 1. pind = 3 ret 4 vrang 2. pind = 3 ret 4 vrang 3. pind = tag 2 m løs af p som om de skulle strikkes ret sammen, 1 ret, løft de 2 løse masker over Hvis jeg trækker de to masker over retmasken, så bliver de 3 masker jo til 1. Dvs at mønsterrapporten kun består af 5 masker i stedet for 7. Hvad misforstår jeg.

27.01.2022 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lis, husk omslaget på hver side af de masker du strikker sammen i A.1 - god fornøjelse!

28.01.2022 kl. 15:10

country flag Lissi wrote:

Midterstykke til sløjfe står de strik 4 retstrik er det pinde eller cm

09.04.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lissi, du skal strikke 4 (5) retriller = 8 (10) pinde retstrik :)

12.04.2021 kl. 14:47

country flag Emily wrote:

Bonjour, j'aime beaucoup ce modèle (Little Hedda) mais n'arrive pas à comprendre comment réaliser la 3e ligne du motif A1 (qui se répètera également au A4). Je pars sur 280 mailles, donc le motif se répètera 40 fois si j'ai bien compris. Sinon faut-il faire une maille entre chaque motif pour que les jetés correspondent ? Je suis perdue et ne vois pas comment faire depuis ma maille lisière. Merci d'avance pour votre aide. Emily

31.03.2021 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Emily, c'est exact, sur 280 m, vous répéterez 40 fois les 7 mailles de A.1. Mais ces 280m (5ème taille) se tricotent en rond (pas de mailles lisière). Bon tricot!

06.04.2021 kl. 10:52

country flag Elena wrote:

Salve. Vorrei un chiarimento sulle diminuzioni che si effettuano prima del segno. Devo effettuare la diminuzione al primo segno, poiché devo farla 2 m prima del segno(come da voi suggerito) , come faccio se è la prima maglia? Lavoro insieme la prima e la seconda m. Insieme? Grazie

18.01.2021 - 20:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno, deve iniziare il giro diminuendo dopo il 1° segnapunti e proseguendo con le diminuzioni come indicato e poi finire con la diminuzione prima del segnapunti di inizio giro (1° segnapunti). Buon lavoro!

19.01.2021 kl. 10:59

country flag Elena wrote:

Buonasera. Sto facendo questo modello con il cotone MUSKAT per una taglia 3/4 anni e ne ho comprati 300 g. come indicato per il cotton merino. Mi basteranno? sto lavorando con i ferri circolari n. 4 e a metà del diagramma A1 già ho iniziato il secondo gomitolo. Grazie

17.01.2021 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, per la taglia 3/4 anni le servono 330g di Muskat, sempre che il suo campione corrisponda a quello indicato. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2021 kl. 18:53

country flag Elena wrote:

Buonasera, volendo usare un filato di cotone, quale si potrebbe usare? grazie

07.01.2021 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, questo modello è lavorato in Cotton Merino, un filato 50% Merino e 50% Cotone, adattissimo ai capi per bambini. Se vuole lavorarlo interamente in cotone, può scegliere ad esempio DROPS Muskat o DROPS Cotton Light o ancora DROPS Belle. Si ricordi di controllare che il suo campione corrisponda a quello indicato. Buon lavoro!

07.01.2021 kl. 21:32

country flag Marie-José Costa wrote:

Comment tricoter en rond avec une aiguille circulaire ? Les mailles s'accumulent sur une seule pointe et je ne peux plus vers la fin du rang tricoter les mailles.

24.04.2020 - 20:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Costa, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter du jersey, en rond, sur aiguille circulaire et celle-ci comment tricoter du point mousse, en rond également sur aiguille circulaire. Bon tricot!

27.04.2020 kl. 07:59

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Little Hedda

Greta Ingolfsdottir, Iceland