DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.40£. Read more.

Bright Sally

Knitted jacket with cables, lace pattern and hood in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size children 2 - 12 years.

DROPS Children 26-13
DROPS design: Pattern no z-036-bn
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92- 98/104 - 110/116 -122/128 – 134/140 – 146/152
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 3620, red
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-100-100-125-125 g colour no 14, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with a strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5-6-6-7-7-8 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 153-165-177-189-201-213 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows: A.1 (= band), A.2 (= 5 sts), A.3 (= 12 sts) over the next 132-144-156-168-180-192 sts, work A.4 (= 6 sts), finish with A.1 (= band). When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 131-141-151-161-171-181 sts on needle. Continue with pattern as before but work A.5 over every repetition of A.3. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: A.1, A.2, A.5, P 1, stocking st over the next 89-99-109-119-129-139 sts, A.5, A.4, A.1. Continue pattern like this. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 36-38-40-43-45-48 sts in from each side (back piece = 59-65-71-75-81-85 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm, dec 1 st on each side of every marker (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 6½-7½-8½-9½-10½-11½ cm 3 more times = 115-125-135-145-155-165 sts. When piece measures 28-31-34-37-40-43 cm, cast off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3 sts on both sides of every marker) and finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 47-51-57-61-67-71 sts. Continue cast off for armholes in each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 1-1-1-1-2-3 times = 41-45-47-51-55-57 sts. When piece measures 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm, cast off the middle 17-19-21-23-23-25 sts for neck. Then cast off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 11-12-12-13-15-15 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 40-44-48-52-56-60 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 28-31-33-36-38-41 sts. Cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 25-28-28-31-32-34 sts. When piece measures 39-43-47-51-55 cm, slip the first 10-12-12-14-13-15 sts from mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Then cast off at beg of every row from RS: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 11-12-12-13-15-15 sts remain on the shoulder – work the sts that do not fit the pattern in stocking st. Cast off when piece measures 40-44-48-52-56-60 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 28-31-33-36-38-41 sts. Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 30-33-33-34-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work 2 ridges, then work in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 4-4½-5-4-4-4 cm 4-4-5-7-8-9 more times = 40-43-45-50-54-56 sts. When piece measures 25-30-33-37-41-44 cm, cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve for armhole. Then work sleeve back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME dec for sleeve cap in each side as follows: Dec 2 sts in each side 2 times, 1 st in each side 0-0-1-1-1-2 times, then dec 2 sts in each side until piece measures 29-34-38-42-46-50 cm. Dec 3 sts in each side, then cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 30-35-39-43-47-51 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

HOOD:
Pick up approx. 62-78 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the fronts) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each yarn. K 1 row from WS, then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts. Continue in stocking st and A.1 in each side. When piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm, cast off all sts. Sew or use grafting/kitchener sts to work the hood tog at the top.

Fasten 5-6-6-7-7-8 buttons evenly on left band - button through holes on band on right front piece, adjust according to these.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.10.2019
Correction amount of stitches in size 2; Back piece = 47 sts, Front piece 28 sts and 11 sts remain on the shoulders.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Clara wrote:

I would like to knit this pattern but without the hood. Please advise how I should proceed after finishing the front and back.

06.02.2022 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Clara, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, but you can get helped from a similar pattern for a jacket without hood and same tension. Feel free to contact your DROPS store for any further individual assistance - they will be able to help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

07.02.2022 - 10:35

country flag BB wrote:

I would like to knit without the hood. Can I just knit a collar?

06.02.2022 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear BB, probably - we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, but you can get helped from a similar pattern for a jacket without hood and same tension. Happy knitting!

07.02.2022 - 10:34

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, ich bitte ausserdem auch um Hilfe, beim abketten des Armausschnittes, mit der Magic Loop Methode. Ich stricke in der Größe 110/116 LG Petra

27.11.2021 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, könnte Ihnen die vorrige Antwort helfen? Gerne können Sie uns hier bescheid sagen und irgendeine andere Frage auch hier stellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.11.2021 - 07:45

country flag Petra wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, ich stricke die Jacke in Gr. 110/ 116. Nun habe ich 135 M bei 34 cm. Beim Abketten, jeweils drei M vor und nach den Markierern , komme ich zwar auf die benötigten 123 M insgesamt, doch nicht auf die Maschenzahl für das Vorder und Rückenteil zu je 33 M. Vor dem Rückenteil habe ich dann 32 M, nach dem Rückenteil 34 M. Die Maschenanzahl des Rückenteiles ( 57M) stimmt. Was mache ich beim Abketten methodisch falsch? LG Petra

26.11.2021 - 19:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, Sie haben 135 Maschen und stricken die Verteilungsreihe so: 33 M (= 1. Vorderteil), 6 M abketten, 57 M stricken (Rückenteil), 6 M abketten, 33 M (2. Vorderteil) so sind es: 33+6+57+6+33=135 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.11.2021 - 07:29

country flag Petra wrote:

Liebes Drops - Team, Ich habe den Fehler gefunden ! LG Petra

20.11.2021 - 13:09

country flag Petra wrote:

Liebes Drops - Team, ich stricke diese schöne Jacke in Gr. 110/116 Ich habe 177 M aufgenommen und die Krausrippen gestrickt. Nun habe ich A1, A2 und A3 gestrickt. Fortlaufend A2 +A3 über die nächsten 156M. Dann A4 und A1. Nun sollte ich nach Beendigung von A3, 151 M haben. Ich habe allerdings 159 M. Was mache ich falsch? LG Petra

19.11.2021 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, also A.2 wird nur einmal gestrickt, dh: A.1 (= 5 M), A.2 (= 5 M), A.3 (= 12 M) 13 Mal wiederholen (= über die nächsten 156 M) , A.4 (= 6 M), A.1 (= 5 M), so haben Sie: 5+5+156+6+5 = 177 M - bei der 1. Reihe in A.3 nehmen Sie 2 M in der Mitte jedes Diagram = 2 M x 13 werden abgenommen und es sind noch 10 M übrig = 5+5+ (13*10) +6+5=151M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.11.2021 - 07:35

country flag Siv wrote:

Kan man byta ut garnet till denna kofta till något som kan tvättas i maskin? Gärna något lite luddigt o mjukt som i detta mönster. Har du något förslag? Tack på förhand

06.09.2021 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Siv. Om du vill sticka denna kofta i garn som går att tvätta i maskin kan du sticka antingen i 1 tråd Big Merino, 2 trådar Baby Merino eller 2 trådar Fabel. Inget av dessa är dessvärre lika "luddiga" som detta garn, utan det blir ett lite annat uttryck på koftan då. Se bara till att få rätt stickfasthet och att beräkna riktig garnåtgång som vanligt om du ändrar garn i mönstret. Mvh DROPS Design

07.09.2021 - 09:39

country flag Elsa Löfgren wrote:

Förstår inte varför man gör två knapphål

24.01.2021 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elsa, hvor er du i opskriften?

26.01.2021 - 16:07

country flag Altmayer Marie-France wrote:

Ne me répondez pas ma question était stupide j'ai ma réponse ! Merci

24.01.2021 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Altmayer, pas de soucis :) bonne continuation, et si vous avez une autre question, n'hésitez pas! Bon tricot!

25.01.2021 - 10:33

country flag ALTMAYER Marie-France wrote:

Bonjour à l'exception des bordures le reste du tricot est bien en jersey je ne trouve pas cette indication ? MERCI

24.01.2021 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Altmayer, tout à fait, vous retrouvez cette indication sous la VESTE quand A.5 est terminé, je cite: Quand A.5 a été tricoté 1 fois en hauteur, continuer ainsi: A.1, A.2, A.5, 1 m env, 89-99-109-119-129-139 m jersey end, A.5, A.4, A.1. . Bon tricot!

25.01.2021 - 09:46