DROPS / 160 / 2

Love Is In The Air Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

  • Love Is In The Air Cardigan / DROPS 160-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or Belle. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Love Is In The Air Cardigan / DROPS 160-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or Belle. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Love Is In The Air Cardigan / DROPS 160-2 - Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or Belle. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no r-673
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S – M/L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
650-700-750-850-900 g colour no 06, light pink

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-750 g colour no 11, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-6-6 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, P 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm.
SIZE M/L: 15, 23, 31, 39, 48 and 57 cm.
SIZE XL: 16, 24, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm.
SIZE XXL: 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 17, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm.
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 311-351-411-439-495 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, P 10-9-9-8-8, * A.1 (= 9 sts), P 7-6-6-5-5 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, insert 1 marker (= right front piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, insert 1 marker (= back piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 10-9-9-8-8, 6 band sts in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work P sts K from WS and P from RS. Move the markers upwards when working. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 277-309-361-381-429 sts on needle. Then work A.2 (= 7 sts) over A.1 until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm, dec as follows:
Work 6 band sts in garter st, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, * A.2, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, 6 band sts in garter st = 257-285-333-349-393 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Continue with P and pattern as before until piece measures 13-14-14-15-15 cm.
Then dec as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, * A.2, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, 6 band sts in garter st = 237-261-305-317-357 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Continue dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 3-4-4-5-5 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 157-189-221-253-285 sts. Work next row as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 4, * A.2, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 1, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 4, 6 band sts in garter st. When piece measures 30 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Work inc sts P from RS and K from WS. Repeat inc every 1½-2-2½-3½-3½ cm 9-7-6-5-5 more times = 197-221-249-277-309 sts.
When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52 cm, divide the piece as follows: Slip the first and last 52-58-65-72-80 sts on a stitch holder for front piece, cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 93-105-119-133-149 sts (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
= 93-105-119-133-149 sts. Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, then 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-4-4-6-7 times and 1 st 1-3-5-8-9 times = 77-77-79-79-83 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73 cm, slip the middle 31-33-35-37-39 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 23-22-22-21-22 sts. On next row from neck, K the first 2 sts tog = 22-21-21-20-21 sts. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-58-65-72-80 sts. Now cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 44-44-45-45-47 sts. Continue to work in garter st, A.2 and P sts as before. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm, dec for neck as follows: On next row from RS slip the 14-15-16-17-18 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work them first), then cast off on every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times = 22-21-21-20-21 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 96-105-105-112-112 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Then work as follows: * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 (= 9 sts) *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 84-91-91-96-96 sts on needle. Work A.2 over A.1 and P as before. When piece measures 3 cm, dec as follows: * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 78-84-84-88-88 sts. When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm, dec as follows: * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 72-77-77-80-80 sts. Repeat dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 2½-3-3-4-4 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 48-56-56-64-64 sts. Work next round as follows: * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). Piece now measures approx. 16 cm. When piece measures 18 cm, inc on each side of marker - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 2 sts inc), repeat inc every 2½-3-2-2-1½ cm 11-9-12-11-14 more times = 72-76-82-88-94 sts. P the inc sts. Work A.2 and P until piece measures 47-46-44-43-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1-4-7-10-14 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. NOTE: Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 100-120 sts (incl sts on stitch holder for neck) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Cast off.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (87)

country flag Stine Larsen 23.06.2020 - 00:29:

Hej, så dukkede der lige et spørgsmål op igen. Jeg har nu lukket af til ærmegab på rygstykket . Men jeg er i tvivl om hvordan jeg gør med de 2 resterende masker i hver ende som der er tilbage, de var jo oprindeligt en del af mønstret. Skal de strikkes i glatstrik (vrang på retside og ret på vrangside)? jeg kan jo ikke rigtigt følge mønstret når der kun er 2 masker.

user icon DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 09:35:

Hej Stine, ja de masker som ikke går op i mønsteret strikkes i glatstrik. God fornøjelse!

country flag Stine Larsen 12.05.2020 - 13:58:

Hej, jeg er igang med denne cardigan, men har nu et problem. Jeg har lige opdelt arbejdet i ryg samt venstre og højre forstykke. Jeg skal så igang med at lukke af til ærmegab 14 masker i hver side, jeg strikker str m/l. Mit problem er at der jo kun er 9 masker i hver side og derfor vil jeg komme til at skulle lukke masker af som er en del af mønstret, kan det passe?

user icon DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 08:58:

Hej stine, Ja det stemmer, du vil være nødt til at lukke en del af mønsteret af. God fornøjelse!

country flag Beatrice 02.03.2020 - 18:08:

Buonasera il modello mi piace molto ma ho difficoltà con lo schema A2, ci sono 2 gettati di seguito nel primo ferro. Come si fanno?\r\nGrazie mille

user icon DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 18:26:

Buongiorno Beatrice. Deve lavorare il diagramma A.2 sulle maglie su cui ha lavorato il diagramma A.1. Tra una ripetizione e l’altra di A.2 continua a lavorare le maglie a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

country flag Amina 10.02.2019 - 18:47:

I made one amnd i am wearing it now. it's so beautiful. thank you for the pattern and explanation 😚👍👍👍

country flag Marita Kjørsvik 18.07.2018 - 11:53:

Hei, begynt å stikke denne. Men får ikke oppskriften til å stemme med bildet. På bildet ser det ut som det er glattstrikk, rettmasker mellom rapportene A1 og A2, mens i oppskriften står det vrang. Dette blir da ikke riktig?? Kan noen hjelpe raskt.

user icon DROPS Design 25.07.2018 kl. 15:04:

Hei Marita. Det stemmer at det er vrangmasker mellom A.1 og A.2 – det er det også på bildet, men det er litt vanskelig å se siden det er så lite. God fornøyelse.

country flag Sanna 11.03.2018 - 23:15:

Jag räknade inte med maskan som jag ska dra över. Ibland står det helt still. Haha! PS. Det måste va 3 varv räts i början annars börjar man sticka mönstret från avs.

country flag Sanna 09.03.2018 - 21:34:

Hej! Undrar hur A.2 ska stickas. Man gör 2 omslag men bara 1 maska mindre när man stickar ihop 2 maskor. Då har jag 1 m kvar i ökningen som blir med omslagen. Dom ska väl stickas am på avigsidan för att det ska bli hål? Då blir det en masökning kvar varje mönster varv? Får inte ihop det.

user icon DROPS Design 13.03.2018 kl. 14:38:

Hej, du minskar 2 maskor åt gången i A.2: Du lyfter 1 maska, stickar ihop 2 maskor och drar den lyfta maskan över. Omslagen ska stickas aviga från avigsidan. Det ökas alltså inga maskor.

country flag Angela 20.01.2018 - 12:35:

Salve. Vorrei iniziare questo lavoro. Vedendo le domande, vorrei chiedere: e' troppo difficile? Qualcuna e' riuscita a realizzarlo? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 20.01.2018 kl. 13:19:

Buongiorno Angela, è un modello di sicuro non semplicissimo, ma se segue attentamente le istruzioni riuscirà a realizzarlo. Se dovesse aver bisogno di aiuto, può scriverci. Buon lavoro!

country flag Simone 15.01.2018 - 22:09:

Bij de mouw staat 112 opzetten, bij het begin van het patroon staat 5 avdan 8x het patroon volgen, dan zou ik 96 steken hebben. Echter 8x9 + 10 maakt 91, wat doe ik met de overige 11 steken??

user icon DROPS Design 17.01.2018 kl. 11:26:

Hoi Simone, je breit eerst 5 steken en dan A.1 (= 9 steken) en dat doe je in totaal 8 keer. Dat is in totaal 112 steken (5+9)x8=112. Omdat er in elke herhaling van A.1 2 steken worden geminderd, minder je 16 steken over de hele toer, daarmee kom je op een totaal van 96 (112-16)

country flag Gigi 16.08.2017 - 21:02:

Bonsoir, peut-on connaitre les dimensions des tailles en centimètres ? En effet je n'arrive pas à me décider entre la taille S et M/L il n'y a aucune référence en cm pour m'aider dans mon choix. Merci bien amicalement :)

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2017 kl. 16:41:

Bonjour Gigi, le schema des mesures se trouve en bas de page, sous les explications. En plus consultez notre lecon: Comment lire le schéma des mesures. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 160-2

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Love Is In The Air

Manulein, Austria

Strikket trøje til min datter

Muttis kreative dukkehus, Denmark