DROPS / 160 / 25

Kamelia by DROPS Design

DROPS square knitted bolero with lace pattern in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no e-225
Yarn group A
Size: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300 g colour no 17, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.70 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Work first a square in the round, then work out to each sleeve back and forth.

Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Cast on 12 sts with Safran and distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm (= 3 sts on each needle). Then insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker between 3rd and 4th st, 2nd marker between 6th and 7th st, 3rd marker between 9th and 10th st and 4th marker between 12th and 1st st. Then work according to A.1 – choose diagram for correct size (= 4 times). Sts with markers are corner sts, let the markers follow when working outwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically (see arrow for your size) each side will be worked seperatly = 63-67-71-75 sts along each side and 252-268-284-300 sts in total on needle. Then work only over the first 63-67-71-75 sts (= one side, sts between 4th and 1st marker), slip the other sides on stitch holders, work over sts between 2nd and 3rd marker later.
Now work piece back and forth. On next row from RS work as follows: Work 2 sts in first st, K 0-2-4-6, A.2 (= 61 sts), K 0-2-4-6, work 2 sts in last st on row = 65-69-73-77 sts. Then work as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, 1-3-5-7 sts in stocking st, A.2, 1-3-5-7 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements.

On next row from RS inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 1 edge st – READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc on every row from RS 2-4-8 more times = 75-83-95 sts. Work inc sts in stocking st.

= 65-75-83-95 sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 27-32-36-42 sts in stocking st, A.3 (= 9 sts), 27-32-36-42 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st. Work A.3 2 times in total vertically. Work 0-6-0-4 rows in stocking st. On next row from RS, dec 3-1-1-3 sts evenly = 62-74-82-92 sts. P 1 row from WS. Work A.4 – see diagram for correct size (= 12-12-10-10 sts) 5-6-8-9 times in width. Work A.4 2-2-3-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.5 (= 6 sts) 10-12-13-15 times, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 0-0-2-0 sts evenly = 62-74-80-92 sts. Cast off when A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically.

Work sts between 2nd and 3rd marker the same way.

Sew tog the side inside 1 edge st, 27 cm up from bottom of sleeve and up. Do same in the other side.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Beg at one sleeve seam and work with circular needle 3.5 mm with Safran from RS as follows: Pick up 20-25-28-30 sts inside 1 edge st in garter st, K the 63-67-71-75 sts from stitch holder, pick up 40-50-56-60 sts inside 1 edge st, K the 63-67-71-75 sts from stitch holder, pick up 20-25-28-30 sts = 206-234-254-270 sts. P 1 round - AT THE SAME TIME insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: P 40-47-52-56, insert 1st marker, P 23, insert 2nd marker, P 80-94-104-112, insert 3rd marker, P 23, insert 4th marker, work the rest of round (= P 40-47-52-56). When inc sts, do not inc sts between 1st and 2nd marker (marks the neck) and between 3rd and 4th marker (marks mid back on the back). K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-15-18-22 sts evenly = 220-249-272-292 sts. P 1 round. Then work A.6 (= 6 sts) AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 14-15-16-20 sts evenly = 234-264-288-312 sts. A.6 is now worked 39-44-48-52 times in width. Repeat A.6 1 more time vertically AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 24-30-36-36 sts evenly = 258-294-324-348 sts. A.6 is now worked 43-49-54-58 times in the round. When A.6 is done, loosely cast off.


= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

JOANN A MEYERS 06.10.2019 - 16:00:

Thank you for your prompt reply! You say: Otheerwise the measurements 27-29-31-33 is about the width of teh shoulders, the additional 9-11 cm are at the top of the sleeves (for the thicker upper arms).... The L/XL size is less than 12 inches. XXXL almost reaches 13 inches. What adult has shoulders that narrow? How are you measuring the shoulders? We measure shoulders between arm caps.

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 09:45:

Dear Mrs Meyers, the seam for sleeves = 27 cm / 10½'' up from bottom of sleeve and up, so that the back piece width = 27-29-31-33 cm (square) + 9-11-12-13 cm on each side, these "extra" cm are for shoulders and sleeves but should be added in the width on back piece. Happy knitting!

JOANN MEYERS 05.10.2019 - 23:24:

We are trying to determine which size my daughter would wear. Shall I measure the shoulder size? Is the shoulder measurement equal to the measurement of the straight line at the top of the diagram (S = 27+9+9)? She normally wears a size M or L (US) top. She is 5'11" tall. How should we determine the size? Thank you for your help.

DROPS Design 06.10.2019 kl. 10:56:

Dear Joan, for sizing please refer to the drawing at the botom of the page. Does your daughter have a similar shoulder warmer / bolero that fits her and you can compare? Otheerwise the measurements 27-29-31-33 is about the width of teh shoulders, the additional 9-11 cm are at the top of the sleeves (for the thicker upper arms) , after which you need to start decreasing. I hope this helps. Happy Crafting!

Nordis Eikevåg 19.06.2018 - 17:03:

I diagram A1 i størrelse xxl og xxxl er det falt ut noen tegn for kast og "ta 1 m løst av pinnen, 1 r, løft den løse over" på de to siste mønster omgangene.

Chris 30.04.2018 - 17:25:

Op het algemeen schema zie ik de laatste 27 cm (mouw) een afschuining naar de mouwmond. Ik vind echter in de uitleg nergens minderingen terug (buiten de 3 steken te verdelen over het werk). Heb ik iets over het hoofd gezien? Hoe kom ik aan de afschuining in die 27 cm? Hartelijk dank voor uw reaktie.

Kastner, Edeltraut 22.01.2018 - 09:52:

Hallo, ich komme wieder Mal nicht weiter. Die je 30 Maschen aufnehmen ist mir klar, da wo der Ärmel ist, aber wo soll ich die zusätzlichen 60 Maschen aufnehmen? Danke

DROPS Design 22.01.2018 kl. 10:43:

Liebe Frau Kastner, diese 30 M werden an den Ärmel aufgefassen - die Naht der Ärmel ist nur 27 cm, diese Maschen werden an den 13 cm beideseitig der Armel aufgefassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eva-maria Janssen 14.09.2017 - 15:20:

Vielen Dank, für die Hilfe

Eva-maria Janssen 13.09.2017 - 21:40:

Erstmal lieben Dank für die Antwort, doch ich habe die Frage falsch formuliert. Meine Frage, Stricke ich A 2 mit den 75 Maschen vom 1. Markierer oder 150 Maschen ,vom 1.und 4. Markierer

DROPS Design 14.09.2017 kl. 08:19:

Liebe Frau Janssen, nach A.1 stricken Sie nur über die ersten 75 M (= zwischen 4. und 1. Markierer), bei der 1. Reihe in A.2 nehmen Sie 2 M zu = 77 M, dann nehmen Sie (in die letzte Größe) zu, bis Sie 95 M haben usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eva-maria Janssen 12.09.2017 - 21:14:

Ich brauche bei dem Bolero,, Kamelia,, Hilfe. Und zwar fange ich jetzt mit dem Muster A 2 an. Nun meine Frage: Muß ich das Muster A2 , 4 mal stricken, oder zwei mal?

DROPS Design 13.09.2017 kl. 08:38:

Liebe Frau Janssen, A.2 wird nur 1 mal in der Höhe gestrickt, siehe unter "ALLE GR.". Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Keppler 24.09.2016 - 15:49:

Hallo! Jetzt weiß ich, was gemeint ist. Wenn man den Ärmel nicht(!) ganz zunäht, sondern nur die Schräge, bleibt eine Kante, aus der man Maschen aufnehmen kann! Vielleicht sollte man den weniger Geübten eine Chance geben, das auch zu verstehen!

Keppler 22.09.2016 - 14:29:

Hallo! Danke für das Video! Aber da ist keine Kante!!

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