Sweet Bliss by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern and vent in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 160-12
DROPS design: Pattern no z-693
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour no 3112, dusty pink
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-125-125-150-150-175 g colour no 03, light pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm with 1 strand of each yarn held togheter.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - for garter st.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 4.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. K 1 round and P 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 84-90-98-106-116-126 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, 2-0-4-3-3-3 sts in stocking st, A.1 (= 10 sts) 7-8-8-9-10-11 times in total, 2-0-4-3-3-3 sts in stocking st, 5 sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 8 cm, cast on 1 edge st in each side of piece at the end of the next 2 rows = 86-92-100-108-118-128 sts. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Work 1 more ridge over the 6 sts in garter st (incl edge st) in each side of piece, work the remaining sts as before. Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 2-0-4-3-3-3 sts in stocking st, A.2 (= 5 sts), A.1 as before until 8-6-10-9-9-9 sts remain, A.3 (= 5 sts), 2-0-4-3-3-3 sts in stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st. NOTE: Adjust A.2 and A.3 according to A.1. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, cast off 4-4-5-5-6-7 sts for armhole at beg of the next 2 rows = 78-84-90-98-106-114 sts on needle. Continue with pattern over the remaining sts, work the sts that do not fit A.1-A.3 in stocking st. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm, cast off for neck as follows: Cast off the middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 sts (= 24-27-29-33-36-40 sts on each side) and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 23-26-28-32-35-39 sts remain on the shoulder. Work A.1 and in stocking st over the sts that do not fit A.1 until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, adjust to finish nicely with lace pattern. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. When piece measures 50-52-54-54-56-58 cm, dec for neck as follows:
Cast off the middle 20 sts (= 29-32-35-39-43-47 sts on each side) and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 2 sts on every row from neck 1 time, then 1 st on every row from neck 4-4-5-5-6-6 times in total = 23-26-28-32-35-39 sts remain on shoulder. Work A.1 and in stocking st over the sts that do not fit A.1 until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, adjust to finish nicely with lace pattern. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 42-42-46-46-48-48 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side of piece) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 0-0-2-2-3-3 sts in stocking st, A.1 until 1-1-3-3-4-4 sts remain (= 4 times in total), 0-0-2-2-3-3 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece, repeat inc every 5½-4-4-3½-3-2½ cm 6-8-8-9-10-12 more times = 56-60-64-66-70-74 sts. Work the inc sts in the pattern. Continue with pattern until piece measures 44-43-42-41-40-39 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders). Loosely cast off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edges. Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve seams. Sew side seam from armhole down to where 1 edge st was cast on in each side of piece (= approx. 8 cm vent) inside 1 edge st.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Pick up from RS approx. 80-92 sts along the neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 4 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.05.2015
Correction: Updated text under back piece, stocking sts before and after pattern was missing after edge sts was cast on.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Jennifer Jolliffe wrote:

Hi, could you please add to your website a sizing chart with chest measurments, etcetera, that relate to your patten sizing, that is S, L, XL etcetera. I have looked but can't find it anywhere. I just want to make sure i am looking at the right size when knitting the patten. Also, do you have patterns on your website that are not free as I would like to see your range? Thank you, Jennifer

17.07.2022 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jennifer, You will find a size chart at the bottom of the pattern. Happy crafting!

18.07.2022 - 06:58

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Ihr habt so tolle Modelle, leider sind die Anleitungen oft nicht gut verständlich geschrieben, besonders die Diagramme sind immer irreführend. Schade, dass Ihr die Charts nicht genauso schreibt, wie andere auch, das wäre wesentlich einfacher.

18.01.2022 - 13:05

country flag Ana wrote:

Se podria tejer este patron pero con ganchillo en lugar de agujas?

04.02.2021 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, no, ese sería un patrón completamente diferente. Buen trabajo!

04.02.2021 - 17:35

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment sont les emmanchures. Sur les photos, les manches commencent après les épaules alors que sur le schéma et dans les explications, il faut rabattre des mailles.

26.09.2020 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, ce modèle est relativement large (cf schéma et mesures), mais il et monté comme d'habitude - les épaules tomberont donc légèrement sur le haut des épaules. vérifiez les mesures sur un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme. Bon tricot!

28.09.2020 - 09:34

country flag Rita Ferrara wrote:

Il diagramma per come e´ stato disegnato trae in inganno. Praticamente i gettati si sa che sono sempre tra due maglie, per tanto risulta che i gettati del 3-5 e 7 ferro risultano allineati, mentre allineati sono solamente i gettati del 3 e 7 ferro e cosi via. Disegnare il gettato sul rigo del quadretto per simulare i due punti crea confusione. Correggere.

29.07.2020 - 15:05

country flag Alejandra wrote:

Hola, he tejijo vaeias prendas circulares y siempre me quedan torcidas, es decir, el tejido del cuerpo mirado de frente se vé cargado hacia un lado y no derecho hacia abajo. Alguien sabe por qué me sucede esto? Muchas gracias!!!

08.06.2020 - 02:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alejandra, no lo se porque. Tienes que hormar una pieza (es simplemente estirar un proyecto terminado húmedo y colocarlo en la forma deseada para que seque). Buen trabajo!

20.11.2020 - 09:50

country flag Beateice wrote:

How do they adapt this pattern for two needles?

08.04.2020 - 16:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beateice, you will find here some more explanations about circular needles and adapting a pattern into straight needles. Happy knitting!

09.04.2020 - 16:49

country flag Torunn Wenny Hagavold wrote:

Hvor mange nøster Big Merino trenger jeg til denne oppskriften? Den kon jo strikkes med en tråd i garngruppe c.

18.03.2020 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Torunn, Det er avhengig av størrelsen du strikker, men 1 nøste er 50 g, så (f.eks.) størrelse S trenger 5 nøster. God fornøyelse!

19.03.2020 - 08:11

country flag Xenia Weezenaar wrote:

Smeet Bliss wordt gebreid met Alpaca en Kid Silk. Ik wil deze trui breien met alléén Alpaca. Hoeveel bollen heb ik dan nodig voor maat L/XL? En is het huidige online patroon de gecorrigeerde versie? Alvast bedankt voor jullie medewerking!

24.11.2019 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Xenia,

Het online patroon is inderdaad de gecorrigeerde versie. Als je voor de datum van de correctie een afdruk hebt gemaakt is de correctie daar nog niet in verwerkt.

Je kan met 2 draden alpaca breien, i.p.v. 1 draad van elke kwaliteit. In dat geval neem je de dubbele hoeveelheid garen van wat staat aangegeven bij Alpaca. Voor maat L is dat dus 300 gram (= 6 bollen) en voor maat XL is dat 350 gram (= 7 bollen.)

25.11.2019 - 09:32

country flag Dany wrote:

Bonjour Je désirerais réaliser ce pull uniquement en kid silk, de ce fait je tricote cette qualité en double pour avoir le même rendu Merci pour votre reponse

24.10.2018 - 07:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dany, vous n'aurez pas exactement le même rendu car Alpaca et Kid-Silk n'ont pas les mêmes caractéristiques, mais vous pouvez tout à fait tricoter le pull avec 2 fils Kid-Silk. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

24.10.2018 - 08:47

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