DROPS / 159 / 5

Call It Spring Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in stocking st with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-679
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 40, coral

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Flower (red), NO 617: 8 pieces in all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41 and 47 cm.
SIZE M: 6, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 42 and 49 cm.
SIZE L: 6, 12, 19, 25, 32, 38, 45 and 51 cm.
SIZE XL: 6, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47 and 53 cm.
SIZE XXL: 6, 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 7, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43, 50 and 57 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.

Cast on 221-235-249-277-305-333 sts (incl 5 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! Continue to work PATTERN as follows (= from RS): 5 band sts in garter st, A.1 (= 14 sts on 1st row) 15-16-17-19-21-23 times in width, 1 st in stocking st, 5 band sts in garter st = 191-203-215-239-263-287 sts. NOTE: Work 5 band sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, insert a marker in each side as follows: Insert a marker after 50-53-56-62-68-74 sts in from each side of piece for front piece. There are now 91-97-103-115-127-139 sts for back piece. Then continue in stocking st inside band sts in garter st. When piece measures 7 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-4-2½-2-2½ cm 6-5-3-5-6-5 more times = 163-179-199-215-235-263 sts. When piece measures 24 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 2 markers - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 1-1-1½-2-2-2 cm 7-6-5-4-6-6 more times = 195-207-223-235-263-291 sts. When piece measures 35-37-38-40-41-43 cm, cast off sts for armhole as follows on next row: Work the first 47-50-54-56-63-70 sts, cast off the next 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work the next 85-91-99-103-117-131 sts, cast off the next 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work the remaining 47-50-54-56-63-70 sts = 179-191-207-215-243-271 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 62-64-65-71-74-76 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. K 3 rows back and forth (1st row = WS). Work next row as follows: Cast off the first 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts, K the next 54-56-57-61-64-66 sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-6-5-5-4-4 sts evenly (inc by working 2 sts in 1 st), cast off the last 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts, cut the yarn = 60-62-62-66-68-70 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 299-315-331-347-379-411 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Now work pattern as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, A.2 (18-19-20-21-23-25 times) until 6 sts remain, 1 st in stocking st, 5 band sts in garter st. NOTE: See arrow in diagram A.2 and A.3 for correct size. When A.2 has been worked vertically, continue with A.3 over A.2 and A.4 over A.3. There are now 119-125-131-137-149-161 sts on needle. Work 1 ridge while AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-5-3-1-5-9 sts evenly on 1st row from RS = 112-120-128-136-144-152 sts. Work 1 more ridge and loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= Beg here in the different sizes.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Antonella 10.09.2018 - 18:19:

Salve, sto eseguendo questo modello. Vorrei sapere da dove devo misurare l'altezza del lavoro, se partendo dal bordo a maglia legaccio sui lati o dalle punte del motivo A1 che producono il bordino ondulato alla base del capo. Tra queste due misure infatti ci sono circa 2 cm di differenza in altezza. Grazie in anticipo.

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 19:40:

Buonasera Antonella. Deve misurare lungo il bordo a maglia legaccio sui lati. Buon lavoro!

Barbara Zimmerman 09.08.2017 - 03:46:

Loving the pattern! Are your measurements for when to do buttonholes, measured from the bottom of the buttonhole band or the bottom of the points created by the slip/K2/psso? The points are a bit longer. Thanks for your help!

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 10:36:

Dear Barbara, thank you for your note and question. The placement for the buttonholes are measured from the bottom of the button-band (from the cast on edge). I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

Ehret Ingrid 05.01.2016 - 21:53:

Bin gerade am stricken dieses models. habe nun die Ärmel darzu aufgenommen und bin nun an der Einteilung des musters A 2. leider stimmt die einteilungsangabe nicht. am ende geht diese nicht auf. bitte um Überprüfung und schnelle Rückantwort. dieses Modell soll bis 13.1.2016 fertig sein dies gibt ein geschenk.

Marisa 03.09.2015 - 15:12:

Buongiorno, non ho capito; dopo aver lavorato il diagramma A1 devo attaccare con A2 e poi A3 o ripetere sempre A1? io ho terminato A1 e poi stavo lavorando a maglia rasata, ma confrontando l'immagine , vedo che invece c'e' la ripetizione del disegno. Poi vi chiedero' altro andando avanti con il lavoro grazie Marisa

DROPS Design 03.09.2015 kl. 15:18:

Buongiorno Marisa, questo modello è bottom up, inizia dal basso verso l'alto: alla fine di A.1 deve lavorare a m rasata con il bordo a m legaccio, e a 7 cm inizierà le diminuzioni come indicato. Ci riscriva se qualcosa non è chiaro. Buon lavoro!

Myriam Guillemin 21.05.2015 - 19:27:

Suis en train de tricoter l'empiècement et je ne trouve pas dans la marche à suivre ou se font les diminutions Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 22.05.2015 kl. 09:34:

Bonjour Mme Guillemin, les diminutions de l'empiècement se font au niveau des diagrammes: 4 m sont diminuées à l'avant-dernier rang de chacun des motifs A.2 et A.3 puis 2 m sont diminuées dans l'avant-dernier rang de A.4. Bon tricot!

Gitte Damsgaard 14.05.2015 - 19:27:

I str XXL har du 263 masker, skal tage ind 6 gange af 4 masker. Bliver så 239 masker. Mennnn....... I får det til 235 😳 Er ikke den første fejl jeg finder ( se kommentar) Er da i den græd surt og trals man ik kan regne med jeres opskrifter. Hvorfor ligge sådan noget " makværk" op hvor man skal bruge en masse tid på ar rette fejl????????

DROPS Design 15.05.2015 kl. 09:47:

Hej Gitte, du tager ind på hver side af de to mærker først 1 gang og så 6 gange til = ialt 7 gange i din størrelse. 263 - 14 - 14 = = 235 m! God fornøjelse!

Gitte Damsgaard 14.05.2015 - 19:07:

I skriver i opskriften,ved udtagning: sno omkring for at undgå hul. MEN du få jo et hul når du snor omkring. I skriver/viser det i jeres video. SÅ er ski da ireterende at i skriver det modsatte i opskriften, og så får man "glæden" ved at pille opSÅ alle strik medsøster, 2 masker i en ved udtagning

DROPS Design 15.05.2015 kl. 13:55:

Hej Gitte, Jeg tror du har misforstået opskriften. Hvis du tager ud ved at slå om og strikker omslaget drejet på næste pind (som vi skriver i opskriften), så vil du kun få et meget lille hul. Du har ret i at der findes mange forskellige måder at tage ud på, og det er naturligvis en smags sag. Vi har gjort det på den måde der står i opskrften. God fornøjelse!

Netty 09.05.2015 - 21:46:

Wat een leuk vestje! Even iets anders dan sokken breien, hetgeen ik de laatste tijd deed. Moet alleen nog wennen aan het breien op een rondbreinaald en wil de mouwtjes iets langer maken. De kleur die ik heb gekozen is ijsblauw.

Magda 02.04.2015 - 21:01:

Beste, Misschien zag ik het over het hoofd maar ik zocht me reeds suf. Ik ben namelijk opzoek naar een matentabel met afmetingen zodat ik toch een idee heb van met wat een L-XL-XXL etc. overeenkomt. Bij het ene merk stemt een XXL overeen met maat 52, bij het andere merk blijkt een XXL nog te klein voor een maatje 42. Ik ben namelijk aan de brede kant en maakte reeds veel werkje die veel te klein uitvielen. Alvast dank voor uw tussenkomst. Mvg, Magda

DROPS Design 02.04.2015 kl. 23:07:

Beste Magda, we hebben geen maattabel en dat is met opzet. Wel vind je onderaan al onze ontwerpen voor kleding een tekening met maten. Sommige modellen hebben een wijdere pasvorm dan anderen en zo kun je de maat kiezen zoals je hem wilt dragen. Tip: wil je een vest maken? Pak dan een vest van jezelf dat precies goed past en meet dat op, vergelijk die maten met de tekening onderaan het patroon en kies dan de juiste maat.

Anna 22.03.2015 - 14:04:

Non tenete presente la mia domanda, ho capito! Scusate...

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