DROPS / 159 / 4

Call It Spring by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top in stocking st with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-680
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 40, coral

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rounds in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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TOP:
Worked in the round on circular needle.

Cast on 210-224-238-266-294-322 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. Then work PATTERN A.1 (= 14 sts on 1st round) from mid back (= beg of round) = 180-192-204-228-252-276 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, insert a marker in each side as follows: Work the first 45-48-51-57-63-69 sts, insert a marker, work the next 90-96-102-114-126-138 sts, insert a marker and work the remaining 45-48-51-57-63-69 sts on round.
Then continue in stocking st. When piece measures 7 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-4-2½-2-2½ cm 6-5-3-5-5-5 more times = 152-168-188-204-228-252 sts. When piece measures 24 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 2 markers - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 1-1-1½-2-2-2 cm 7-6-5-4-6-6 more times = 184-196-212-224-256-280 sts. When piece measures 35-37-38-40-41-43 cm, cast off sts for armhole as follows on next round: Work the first 42-45-49-51-59-65 sts, cast off the next 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work the next 84-90-98-102-118-130 sts, cast off the next 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work the remaining 42-45-49-51-59-65 sts = 168-180-196-204-236-260 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 62-64-65-71-72-76 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. K 3 rows back and forth (1st row = WS). Work next row as follows: Cast off the first 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts, K the next 54-56-57-61-64-66 sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-6-5-5-4-4 sts evenly (inc by working 2 sts in 1 st), cast off the last 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts, cut the yarn = 60-62-62-66-66-70 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 288-304-320-336-368-400 sts. Then work and dec according to A.2 (= 18-19-20-21-23-25 repetitions). NOTE: See arrow in diagram A.2 and A.3 for correct size. When A.2 has been worked vertically, continue with A.3. When A.3 has been worked vertically, continue with A.4. There are now 108-114-120-126-138-150 sts on round. Work 1 ridge while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-4-2-0-4-8 sts evenly = 102-110-118-126-134-142 sts. Work 1 more ridge and loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

= K
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= Round beg here in the different sizes.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Coleman Elyse 23.08.2019 - 17:48:

Overall, I love the look of this pattern but don't like the way it rumples over the arm. Is that just the way it turned out in the photo or is there really that much ease in the pattern? If it is the ease, is there a way knit it so that it snugs up against the arm?

DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 08:26:

Dear Mrs Elyse, depending on every one body shape, the top might look a bit differently, you can calculate the width of sleeve edge (with help of tension) to check how it will fit on you - for any individual assistance adjusting the pattern you are welcome to contact your store, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Lucia 14.05.2019 - 12:19:

Non capisco se si deve calare sui fianchi e in mezzo dietro perché per la taglia xl non mi tornano i conti..da 228 come di arriva a 204 calando x 6 volte? Grazie

DROPS Design 14.05.2019 kl. 12:33:

Buongiorno Lucia. Deve diminuire 4 maglie ad ogni giro con diminuzioni (diminuisce sia prima che dopo ognuno dei due segnapunti). Quindi diminuendo per 6 volte, il numero di maglie diminuite è 24. Arriva così alle 204 maglie indicate. Buon lavoro!

Isabel Sales 12.05.2019 - 19:22:

Hello. I am making this top in size Small. I completed A1 and I have 180 stitches on my needle. A2 does not line up. Where do I increase the number of stitches? Thanks.

DROPS Design 13.05.2019 kl. 10:15:

Dear Mrs Sales, after you have worked A.1 one time in height, there are 180 stitches in size S, then you continue working in stocking stitch and start to decrease when piece measures 7 cm . A.2 will be worked only when working yoke, ie over stitches from body + sleeve edges , when you have 288 sts on needle. Happy knitting!

Lara 03.05.2019 - 14:53:

Buongiorno, una curiosità, anzichè avviare le maniche separatamente per poi metterle sul lavoro iniziale, cosa cambierebbe se avviassi delle maglie nuove direttamente sul lavoro? Grazie!!

DROPS Design 03.05.2019 kl. 15:10:

Buongiorno Lara, questo modello è un bottom-up. cioè lavorato dal basso verso l'alto: solitamente per questi modelli si lavorano le maniche separatamente e poi si uniscono su uno stesso ferro circolare per lavorare lo sprone. In questo caso, non essendoci manica in realtà ma solo il bordino, si inizia a lavorare quello e poi si procede sullo stesso ferro circolare per lo sprone. Buon lavoro!

Ingele Siezenga 30.06.2018 - 10:49:

Zijn er bij de ‘mouw’ genoeg steken om er een driekwartmouw aan te kunnen breien? Alvast bedankt!

Corinne 26.06.2018 - 13:43:

Modèle magnifique et plus facile à tricot qu’il paraît... Merci!

Isabelle GRUARDET 10.06.2018 - 19:24:

Bonjour, je recherche un modèle femme avec le Coton You, avec aiguille droite?. Je n'en trouve pas, car la plupart des tricots se travaille qu'avec les aiguilles circulaires ... merci beaucoup.. Isabelle

DROPS Design 11.06.2018 kl. 09:45:

Bonjour Isabelle, vous trouverez ici quelques informations sur l'adaptation d'un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Il est parfois plus simple de tricoter sur aiguille circulaire, n'hésitez pas à essayer à l'aide de nos vidéos, celles qui ont osé, les ont finalement adoptées. Bon tricot!

Sonia B. 20.05.2018 - 07:37:

Bonjour. À l'empiècement, comment positionner les bordures des manches au-dessus des m. rabattues? Je commence par remettre le dos-devant sur l'aig. circulaire, en insérant chacune des bordure à leur place au-dessus des m. rabattues? Présentement, toutes les m. du dos-devant ainsi que celles des bordures des manches sont sur un fil en attente. Je ne sais pas trop comment replacer tout ça sur l'aig. circ. ?? Merci.

DROPS Design 22.05.2018 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Sonia B., cette vidéo montre comment glisser les mailles des manches sur la même aiguille circulaire que le dos et le devant. Les premiers rangs sont parfois un peu plus complexes mais rapidement toutes les mailles tiendront bien sur l'aiguille circulaire. Bon tricot!

Scrapbella 17.05.2018 - 18:02:

Bonjour, "Tricoter ensuite en POINT FANTAISIE A.1 (= 14 m au 1er tour) à partir du milieu dos (= début du tour)" - c'est à dire que je mets le marqueur après le 14 m pour milieu dos ? Merci de votre aide précieuse :)

DROPS Design 18.05.2018 kl. 10:39:

Bonjour Scrapbella, le début des tours est au milieu dos et se trouve au niveau de la jonction des mailles quand vous avez tricoté votre 1er tour. Après les 2 côtes mousse, commencez à partir du début du tour à tricoter A.1 (= 14 m au 1er tour - mais 12 m par motif à la fin de ce tour)., donc avant le 1er motif de A.1 (et après le dernier A.1 du tour). Bon tricot!

Sonia B. 17.05.2018 - 07:47:

Dans cette phrase: À 24 cm de hauteur totale, augmenter 1 m de chaque côté des 2 marqueurs, dois-je tricoter la m juste avant le marqueur et faire le jeté ensuite, puis glisser le marqueur sur l'aiguille droite, tricoter une m. et faire le 2e jeté? Car si je suis à la lettre la phrase, je dois faire 2 jetés consécutifs? Je ne comprends pas. Merci de m'aider.

DROPS Design 17.05.2018 kl. 09:10:

Bonjour Sonia B., pour éviter les 2 jetés consécutifs tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 m avant le marqueur, faites 1 jeté, tricotez 2 mailles (= 1 m avant le marqueur et 1 m après le marqueur) et faites 1 jeté, répétez à l'autre marqueur = 4 augmentations sur ce tour. Bon tricot!

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