DROPS / 159 / 8

Milan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-005
Yarn group C or A+A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 02, wheat

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagram A.1. All rows in diagram are seen from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

All measurements must be done while holding up the garment.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 62-68-72-78-82-88 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Air. Work according to pattern A.1 with 1 st in GARTER ST – see explanation above – in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Continue to work until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm - READ MEASURING TIP. Then cast on new sts for sleeves at the end of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time, then cast on 17-15-14-12-11-9 st in each side = 112-114-116-118-120-122 sts (piece measures approx. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm).
Continue with pattern until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Then cast off for diagonal shoulder at the beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off the first 11 sts 4 times in total = 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts remain on needle (piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm). Cast off the remaining sts.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 19-21-22-24-25-27 sts. Then work pattern according to A.1 with 1 st in garter st in each side (work the sts that do not fit A.1 in garter st). Continue to work until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm. Then cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row from WS as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time, then cast on 17-15-14-12-11-9 sts = 44 sts in all sizes (piece measures approx. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm).
Continue with pattern until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Then cast off for diagonal shoulder at the beg of every row from RS as follows: Cast off the first 11 sts 4 times in total, piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm. All sts have been cast off.

Cast on and work as left front piece but reversed.

Sew shoulder seams in front loop of outermost sts. Sew sleeve and side seams in one in outer loops of edge sts.

Pick up 165 to 205 sts up along right front piece, along the neck on back piece and down along left front piece. K 1 row from WS, then work A.1 over all sts (finish with 1 st in garter st). Insert 1 marker on each shoulder. Continue with A.1 AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm, inc 15 sts evenly between markers (inc on a row with K from RS). Repeat inc when piece measures 16 cm. Work until band measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm. Cast off.


= K from RS
= K from WS
= K 2 tog, 1 double YO, on next row drop 1 YO off the needle, only work one YO

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

Christine 06.02.2020 - 15:41:

Bonjour, Je commence à tricoter la bordure des devants. Doit on avoir 1 maille point mousse au début du rang ?Il est uniquement indiqué 1 maille point mousse à la fin du rang. Encore merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 06.02.2020 kl. 16:01:

Bonjour Christine, il est important de bien terminer par 1 maille point mousse à la fin de A.1 pour qu'au dernier rang de A.1 (= après le jeté) on ait bien 1 maille point mousse. Vous devez donc avoir un nombre multiple de 2 (comme le point ajouré de A.1) + 1 maille. Bon tricot!

Christine 21.01.2020 - 08:58:

Bonjour, Pouvez-vous m'indiquer la largeur approximative du devant gauche pour une taille M ? J'ai monté les 21 mailles et tricoté quelques centimètres. Mais je crains que le devant ne soit pas assez large. Merci pour votre aide. Le point fantaisie est très joli !

DROPS Design 21.01.2020 kl. 10:16:

Bonjour Christine, avez-vous le bon échantillon? Si vous avez bien vos 12 m x 17 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm alors vous devriez avoir les bonnes mesures, comme celles du schéma. Notez bien que les devants peuvent paraître étroits mais vous tricotez ensuite la bordure des devants sur 22 cm en taille M - ce qui rajoute de la largeur aux devants. Bon tricot!

Laura 24.09.2019 - 22:07:

Buonasera, vorrei solo una conferma per favore. Il modello è lavorato con i ferri da 8 mm e un solo capo di filato Air oppure con due capi di filato? Grazie

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 22:59:

Buongiorno Laura. Vengono usati i ferri n. 8 e un solo capo del filato Air. Buon lavoro!

Sylvie 23.02.2019 - 23:46:

Bonjour, pour la bordure en taille M, combien de mailles dois-je relever car vous proposez de 165 à 205 mailles ? Je vous remercie pour votre réponse 😊 Ce modèle va être magnifique !! Je suis fan de vos modèles et laines 💕 Sylvie

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 09:55:

Bonjour Sylvie et merci. Le nombre de mailles à relever va dépendre de votre taille et de votre tension en hauteur, relevez les mailles bien à intervalles réguliers, votre nombre de mailles doit être multiple de 2 +1 (pour terminer A.1 par 1 m end). Bon tricot!

Rosa 07.02.2019 - 14:23:

Quante maglie devo riprendere per il bordo se faccio la taglia L ? Grazie

DROPS Design 07.02.2019 kl. 16:29:

Buongiorno Rosa. Viene indicato di riprendere un numero di maglie compreso tra 165 e 205. Se può aiutarla, di solito, quando si riprendono le maglie lungo i lati, si riprendono 3 maglie ogni 4 ferri. Buon lavoro!

Ginette 30.10.2017 - 16:08:

Merci de votre réponse du 23 octobre ! Nous avons débuté le travail et ça va bien. Nous avons encore une petite question: comment répartissez-vous les augmentations de la bordure des devants ? Seulement sur le col ou également le long des côtés "devant" de la veste ?

DROPS Design 31.10.2017 kl. 09:06:

Bonjour Ginette, vous trouverez ici comment répartir des augmentations, comptez le nombre de mailles entre les 2 marqueurs (= 1 à chaque épaule) et augmentez 15 mailles entre ces 2 marqueurs comme expliqué dans le lien ci-dessus. Ces augmentations permettent que le col retombe joliment. Veillez à bien augmenter sur un rang de mailles end sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

Kristina 29.10.2017 - 18:44:

Hur många maskor ska man sticka upp till framkanten i stlk XXL? Det står mellan 165 till 205 maskor - jag förstår inte hur många jag faktiskt ska sticka upp i denna storlek.

DROPS Design 31.10.2017 kl. 10:19:

Hei Kristina. Siden du strikker str XXL bør du strikke opp et antall masker som er mer lik 205 enn 165. For å få det penest bør du strikke opp det samme antallet på begge forstykkene. God Fornøyelse!

Ginette 21.10.2017 - 16:27:

Bonjour, je suis à expliquer le patron à mes élèves en classe tricot et le compte des mailles au total, une fois les augmentations faites sous les manches, n'est pas juste, selon nous, . Mon résultat (et celui de deux de mes élèves) donne : 62-68-72-78-82-88 m. + (3 + 2 + 2 + 1 + 17 + 15 + 14 + 12 + 11 + 9) = 146-154-158-164-168-174 mailles et non pas 112-114-116-118-120-122 m. Y a-t-il quelque chose qui nous échappe ?

DROPS Design 23.10.2017 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Ginette, on ne monte pas le même nombre de mailles dans toutes les tailles, soit pour toutes les tailles: 1 fois 3 m, 2 fois 2 m, 1 fois 1 m, puis en fonction de la taille 1 fois 17 (en taille S)-15 (en taille M)-14 (en taille L)-12 (en taille XL)-11(en taille XXL) -9 m (en taille XXL) de chaque côté. En taille S on avait: 62 m + (3+2+2+1+17= 25) x 2 (= de chaque côté pour chaque manche) = 62+50= 112 m. Bon tricot!

Alvy 21.09.2017 - 19:06:

Bonjour, j'avoue ne pas bien comprendre, on doit faire 1 point mousse de chaque côté de A1 ou une fois au début du rang (ensuite on répète A1 x fois) et 1 point mousse à la fin du rang ?

DROPS Design 22.09.2017 kl. 09:45:

Bonjour Mme Alvy, on tricote A.1 avec 1 maille lisière au point mousse de chaque côté, autrement dit, on tricote: 1 m au point mousse, on répète A.1 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 m et on termine par 1 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

Sylvie 16.08.2017 - 09:52:

Bonjour. Je viens de terminer la veste, le rendu est magnifique. Du coup je le fais dans une autre couleur. Merci pour vos modèles sympas et facile à faire (avec quelques explications de plus de votre part). Cordialement

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