DROPS Extra / 0-1056

Frank by DROPS Design

DROPS Christmas: Knitted DROPS snowman with scarf and hat in "Eskimo".

Tags: christmas, toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-519
Yarn group E or C + C
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Measurements: approx. 36 cm in diameter and 36 cm in height.
Materials:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
450 g colour no 01, off white
150 g colour no 12, light blue
100 g colour no 02, black
50 g colour no 07, orange

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 23 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm - for nose, buttons, eyes and arms.

ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
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SNOWMAN:
Work back and forth in GARTER ST - see explanation above - on circular needle. First work the bottom then work the body and head.
Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with off white.
ROW 1: K all sts.
ROW 2 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K 1.
ROW 3: K all sts - K the YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of sts instead of front) to avoid holes (= 17 sts).
ROW 4: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K 1.
ROW 5: As 3rd row (= 25 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ROW 6: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K 1.
Repeat 5th and 6th row upwards but on every inc, there is 1 st more between inc. When there are 121 sts on row, stop inc. The bottom is done. Insert 1 marker. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Then continue on garter st over all sts until piece measures 20 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS). On next row, dec 31 sts evenly (i.e. approx. every 4th st) = 90 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 30 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS). On next row, dec 18 sts evenly (i.e. approx. every 5th st) = 72 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 34 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS). Work as follows: * K 2, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* = 54 sts. On next row from RS, dec 12 sts evenly = 42 sts. The body is finished. Insert 1 marker here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! On next row from RS, inc 24 sts evenly for head = 66 sts. When piece measures 15 cm from marker (adjust so that next row is from RS), dec 8 sts evenly = 58 sts. Repeat dec on every row from RS 6 more times = 10 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

ARMS:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 12 sts on needle size 5 mm with black. Work in stocking st until piece measures 13 cm. Switch to light blue. Work 1 ridge in garter st AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sts evenly = 18 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 18 cm. Work all sts K 2 tog = 9 sts. Work 1 row. On next row K 2 and 2 tog until 1 st remains, 1 st in garter st = 5 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts (NOTE: Adjust so that yarn is long enough for assembly). Sew sleeve tog in outer loops of edge sts with light blue, then black. Make another arm.

EYES:
Cast on 1 st on needle size 5 mm with black. In same st work * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, finish with K 1 in same st = 7 sts. On next row, P all sts tog. Cut the yarn. Pull yarn through the last st. Tie the 2 strands tog. Make another eye.

BUTTONS:
Cast on 1 st on needle size 5 mm with black. In same st work * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, finish with K 1 in same st = 9 sts. On next row, P all sts. Then K 2 and 2 tog until 1 st remains, K 1 = 5 sts. P all sts tog. Cut the yarn. Pull yarn through the last st. Tie the 2 strands tog. Make 2 buttons more.

NOSE:
Worked back and forth in stocking st.
Cast on 2 sts on needle size 5 mm with orange. P 1 row (= WS). On next row from RS work 2 sts in each of the 2 sts = 4 sts. Then inc on every row from RS by working 2 sts in the outermost st in each side of piece (= 2 sts inc). Continue inc until there are 12 sts on the needle. Cast off with K from WS.

SCARF:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 16 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with light blue. Work in garter st. Cast off when piece measures approx. 90 cm.
Fringes: 1 fringe = 1 thread orange of approx. 18 cm. Place yarn double, thread loop at the edge through st along cast-on edge and
pull ends through loop. Insert loops in every other st along cast-on and cast-off edge.

HAT:
Worked back and forth in garter st on needle.
Cast on 9 sts on needle size 8 mm with black.
ROW 1: K all sts.
ROW 2 (= RS): * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K 1.
ROW 3: K all sts - K the YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of sts instead of front) to avoid holes (= 17 sts).
ROW 4: * K 2, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K 1.
ROW 5: As 3rd row (= 25 sts).
ROW 6: * K 3, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, finish with K 1.
Repeat 5th and 6th row upwards but on every inc, there is 1 st more between inc. When there are 57 sts on row, stop inc. Insert 1 marker in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Then work in stocking st over all sts until piece measures 10 cm.
Now continue piece in garter st AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row inc 4 sts evenly = 61 sts. Repeat inc when piece measures 14 cm = 65 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 18 cm. Loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew body tog in outer loops of edge sts. Before sewing it entirely tog place a regular plastic plate in the bottom so that the snowman has something to stand on. Fill the body and head with cotton wool (or use an old pillow) before sewing it tog. Tighten snowman tog in the bottom. Sew hat tog in outer loops of edge sts. Tighten tog the top of hat. Sew on eyes and buttons. Sew nose tog in outer loops of edge sts. Fill nose with some cotton wool and fasten on face. Fill arms with some cotton wool and fasten on body. Tie scarf around the neck and put the hat on the head.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1056) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Susan 23.12.2019 - 03:31:

I am making the knitted Drops snowman with hat & scarf. I need to know how big a “regular” plastic plate is. Thank you in advance for providing me with the answer. Susan

DROPS Design 24.12.2019 kl. 17:49:

Dear Susan, a "regular" plastic plate is about the size of an average dinner plate, but you should just use a plate that would fit into the bottom of your snowman. Happy Knitting!

Hilde Van Durpe 03.12.2019 - 11:06:

Bestaat dit patroon ook in haakpatroon

DROPS Design 07.12.2019 kl. 10:40:

Dag Hilde,

Nee, hier is helaas alleen een breipatroon van.

Trine Lill Hestvik 10.01.2019 - 11:25:

Modell nr ee-519\r\nHei, har strikket 20 cm på snømannen som det står. (Deretter fortsettes det med riller over alle m til arb måler 20 cm (avpass at neste p er fra retten).) hvordan gjør jeg dette? Kutter jeg av tråden og beg på nytt på rettsida, eller? Da blir det jo to omg med rett over hverandre og ikke rillestrikk? Ser frem til svar

Susan 08.11.2018 - 11:23:

Hej. Hvordan strikker man på rundpind, når man skal starte med 9 masker?

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 10:35:

Hej Susan, du strikker frem og tilbage på rundpind ifølge opskriften. Se her hvordan du gør det:

How to knit stockinette stitch back and forth on a circular needle from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Carla De Graaf 17.11.2016 - 17:34:

Goedenavond, is er ook een haak versie van deze sneeuwman ?? hier is vast belangstelling voor !! m vr gr carla de graaf

DROPS Design 21.11.2016 kl. 15:16:

Hoi Carla. Nee, op dit moment hebben wij geen gehaakte versie.

Diana Blunier 09.05.2016 - 11:27:

Guten Tag Ich habe den Boden gestrickt gem. Anleitung jedoch nur mit einem drittel der maschenangabe, da ich den schnemann nich so gross haben will. Nun hat mein boden die form eines dreiecks und ich weiss nicht, wie ich diesen zusammennähen soll, dass es einen schönen runden boden gibt. Danke für ihre hilfe. Lg

DROPS Design 10.05.2016 kl. 09:11:

Liebe Diana, das ist von hier aus schwierig zu sagen, wir können nur weiterhelfen, wenn Sie genau nach unseren Anleitungen arbeiten. Grundsätzlich sollten Sie eher ein dünneres Garn nehmen, wenn Sie Figur verkleinern möchten, dann bleiben die Proportionen besser erhalten.

DROPS Design 01.03.2016 - 12:05:

Het patroon is nu aangepast.

José 07.02.2016 - 18:08:

Een vraag: bij het breien van het lijf worden er steeds 8 st. gemeerderd. Bij 14 x meerderen kom ik uit op een stekenaantal van 121 st. ipv 119 st.. Heb ik ergens iets over het hoofd gezien? Bij het verder breien zou ik dan 2 st. extra moeten rekenen. Lijkt me voor het eindresultaat niet veel uitmaken, maar kunt u mij antwoord geven op bovenstaande vraag?

DROPS Design 10.02.2016 kl. 15:54:

Hoi José. Ik ben met je eens. Met 8 keer meerderen per keer kom ik ook uit op 121 ipv 119. Ik heb het doorgegeven aan ons Design Team, maar ik kan helaas niet zeggen hoelang een correctie zal duren op dit moment. Ik zou doen als voorgesteld en 2 extra berekenen, het gaat volgens mij ook niet veel verschillen (of dan gewoon 2 extra st minderen naar 90 st).

Bente Hallager Askholm 01.11.2015 - 15:56:

Snemandens krop: Det passer ikke med de 119 m. Der bliver jo unægtelig (8 x X) + 1 maske. dvs. 121 masker (eller 113 m), og så skal der tages 31(alternativt 32) m ind til de 90

DROPS Design 02.11.2015 kl. 11:05:

Hej Bente, Jo opskriften stemmer, bare følg opskriften, det gør ikke noget hvis du har en udtagning mere eller mindre på sidste omg, men sørg for at få det antal m som står i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

GobertBernadette 09.10.2015 - 22:47:

Il semble qu'il y a une erreur au niveau du corps à 30cm vous dites faire 18 augmentations alors qu'il faut faire 18 diminutions pour arriver de 90 mailles à 72 mailles.

DROPS Design 12.10.2015 kl. 11:01:

Bonjour Mme Gobert et merci, c'est exact, la correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

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