DROPS / 158 / 49

Rocky Road by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS socks in "Fabel", worked toe-up. Size 37-43

Tags: socks, toe up,
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-285
Yarn group A
Size: 37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Sock height: approx. 19 - 20 - 21 cm
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g, colour no 905, salt and pepper

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2 mm – or size needed to get 28 tr in width x 16 tr vertically and 28 dc in width x 35 dc vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
To avoid hole in the middle beg with this technique:
Hold yarn end in the left hand and make a loop around left index finger (from left to right). Hold the loop with left thumb and index finger. * Insert hook through loop, get the yarn from ball, pull yarn through loop, make 1 YO on hook and pull YO through st on hook = 1 dc *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 dc in loop, finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Continue as explained in pattern – AT THE SAME TIME pull yarn end so that loop is tighten tog and the hole disappears.

On every dc round replace first dc with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in first ch.
On every tr round replace first tr with 3 ch.
Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

Work 2 tr/dc in 1 tr/dc.

Dec 1 st as follows – beg 2 dc before marker:
Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.

Worked from toe and up to leg.

Work a MAGIC CIRCLE – see explanation above, on hook size 2 mm with Fabel = 7 dc in circle. READ CROCHET INFO! Work 2 dc in every dc = 14 dc. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 7th st. Then work in the round with 1 dc in every st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc on each side of each marker – READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc every round 9-10-11 more times (10-11-12 inc in total) = 54-58-62 dc. Then work A.1a (= 3 sts), A.1b (= 4 sts) over the next 24-28-32 dc (= 6-7-8 times), A.1c (= 4 sts), 1 tr in each of the last 23 dc. Then work in the round with tr under foot and A.1 over the 31-35-39 sts on top of foot. When piece measures 9-11-14 cm, inc 1 tr on each side of the 31-35-39 sts on top of foot, repeat inc every round 11-12-12 more times (12-13-13 inc in total) = 47-49-49 tr + A.1. Continue until piece measures 17-19-22 cm from toe. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Then work as follows – Work 35-33-43 ch, skip the first 31-35-39 sts on top of foot, work 1 dc in each of the next 47-49-49 tr, work 1 dc in each of the 35-33-43 ch = 82-82-92 dc. Insert 2 markers in the piece, 3-4-2 dc in dc from foot (there should be 41-41-46 dc between markers). Continue in the round with 1 dc in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 dec dc per round) - READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every round 17 more times = 10-10-20 dc remain on round. Turn the sock inside out, place sts under heel double and work tog with 1 sl st through every st in both layers. Fasten off.

Start by working A.1 over the 31-35-39 sts on top of foot as before, but work 4 tr in first tr-group in A.1a (i.e. first repetition with tr consists of 3 ch and 3 tr in same st) and in last tr-group in A.1c, skip 3-1-4 sts, * work 4 tr in next st, skip 5-5-6 sts *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, skip 2-2-4 sts, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. Then work 1 tr-group in every tr-group on round below. Continue this pattern until leg measures 14-15-16 cm. Work 1 round with A.2 over A.1. Fasten off. Work another sock the same way.


= ch
= tr

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 158-49) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Camille 18.06.2020 - 22:12:

Bonjour, pour crocheter le talon, j'ai 49ms, si je place un marqueur à 2ms du pied, j'obtiens 45ms entre chaque marqueur et non 46. Et au tour suivant où dois je placer le marqueur ? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 19.06.2020 kl. 07:40:

Bonjour Camille, pour le talon vous avez 92 ms soit 46 ms pour le dessous et 46 ms pour le dessus du talon (les marqueurs doivent être sur les côtés). Ces marqueurs restent en place et vous diminuez 1 ms de chaque côté de chacun de ces marqueurs (2 ms ensemble, marqueur, 2 ms ensemble) = 4 dim. par tour x 18 = il reste 20 ms (10 de chaque côté des marqueurs). Bon crochet!

Grete Olesen 06.07.2018 - 15:03:

Jeg har strikket og heklet i 35 år. Man jobber på lykke og fromme når man skaper noe nytt. Og man justerer også litt etter hvert som man hekler. Dette ser man for eksempel der hvor det er føyet til 3 m i fm. Dette er gjort for å få maskeantallet riktig (som det ikke var når man var i gang). Og det er jo greit...for en privatperson! Men når man skal legge oppskriften ut på nettet må man korrigere og noen må lese korrektur. Pinlig!!! :(

Grete Olesen 05.07.2018 - 20:37:

Jeg har fulgt oppskriften til punkt og prikke. Men når jeg kommer dit hvor jeg skal hekle luftmasker osv. så stemmer ikke maskeantallet. Jeg har hatt 31 m oppå foten og 23 masker under(staver). Det er 54 masker. Deretter øker jeg 2 masker pr. omgang 12 ganger. Da har jeg økt 24 masker. 54 masker + 24 masker = 68 masker. I oppskriften står det at jeg skal sitte igjen med 82! Hvordan forklarer du dette?

Stine Hviid 28.02.2018 - 07:09:

Jeg kan ikke finde ud af jeres opskrift i starten ved udtagning med fastmasker. Efter 10 runder med udtagning får jeg det kun til 34 masker(2*10+14=34). Er der noget jeg har overset? Jeg slutter omgangen med 1km i 1 km samt laver en ny luftmasse. Tæller 1km med til forrige runde eller den nye runde? Og i så fald bliver luftmasken vel nummer 2 maske i den nye runde?\r\nHåber det er til at forstå hvad jeg mener

Diana Connolly 10.11.2017 - 15:52:

Hi Jette, I’ve just been with a customer trying to understand pattern 158-49. When we start the pattern to A1 and B1 we only work 16 dc instead of 32 as states in pattern, please could you help?

DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 09:11:

Dear Mrs Connolly, when working 1st row in A.1 work as follows (in the largest size): A.1a over the first 3 sts on round (= 1 tr-group), A.1b over the next 32 dc (= 8 times in width ie 8 tr-groups), A.1c over the next 4 sts (1 tr-group) and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 23 dc. Happy crocheting!

Hanne 15.05.2017 - 14:51:

Er det meningen der skal være 4 luftmasker/fasmasker mellem 1a til 1b og fra 1b til 1c men kun tre imellem 1b til 1b?

DROPS Design 16.05.2017 kl. 09:26:

Ja du er nødt til at følge mønsteret for at få det til at passe, både ovenpå foden og senere i skaftet. God fornøjelse!

Pia 25.10.2016 - 13:35:

Hej jeg kan ikke helt finde ud af at læse diagrammet skal man starte med 3 luftmasker også en stangmaske ,skal jeg så springe 4 masker også 4 St i samme måske er det rigtig håber det er til at forstå

DROPS Design 25.10.2016 kl. 15:00:

Hej Pia. Ja, den förste stangmaske (st) erstattes af 3 lm, saa hekler du endnu 1st i förste lm, springer 4 lm over og haekler 4 st i één lm osv.

Lotte 22.10.2015 - 15:59:

Hej.. Jeg forstår ikke helt opskriften, skal jeg sætte en mærketråd ved hver 7. Maske eller skal jeg kun sætte ved begyndelsen og så den 7. Maske ? Håber i forstår mit spørsmål :) På forhånd tak

Alba Nakel 04.10.2015 - 00:13:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke hvordan man laver A.1a , A.1b og A.1c. efter udtagningen fm. Skal man lave lm i fm, og hvordan gør man det ? På forhånd tak :)

DROPS Design 02.12.2015 kl. 11:42:

Hej, Udtagningerne hækler du som A.1b og A.1a+c fortsætter du med først og sidst på omgangen. God fornøjelse!

Jette 08.09.2015 - 12:54:

Efter FM udtagningerne i tåen begyndes på mønster. 35 oven på foden og 23 under = 58 m. Så langt så godt. Men så er man jo nød til at bryde garnet, og starte 3 masker før, da udtagningerne ellers aldrig kan komme til at ligge på siden af foden. Altså,- har misforstået det, eller skal garnet brydes ?

DROPS Design 08.09.2015 kl. 15:46:

Hej Jette, du tager bare ud når du kommer til det punkt i den anden side. Det skal ikke väre nödvendigt at bryde garnet! God fornöjelse!

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