DROPS / 156 / 42

Around the World by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Big Delight”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no db-035
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL – XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
400-500-500-600-600-700 g color no 02, summer meadow

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get approx. 3 x (1 dc + 3 ch) in width x 7 rounds = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 7.80 $ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 7.80 $ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec 1 repetition (= 1 dc + 3 ch) by not working ch, but work 2 dc into 1 dc as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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BODY:
Worked in the round from mid back on the back. Work 6 ch on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Big Delight and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
Work according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work ch 3, 13 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: ch 5, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch = 12 dc + 2 ch.
ROUND 3: Now work the circle into a square, i.e. work as follows: Work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc (= corner) in first ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, * 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc (= corner) in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, 1 dc in next ch-space (= last 2 ch from previous round), 3 ch.
ROUND 4: Work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc (= corner) in first ch-space, * ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc (= corner) in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, 3 ch. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Repeat 4th round with inc, i.e. work 1 dc + 3 ch more between each corner on every round (= 4 inc per round) AT THE SAME TIME on every 6th round inc 1 dc + 3 ch extra on each side of each corner – see star in diagram (= 8 extra inc per round). Continue like this until square measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'' x 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''.
Now work armhole as follows: Work as before until first corner, work 3 dc + 3 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the corner. Now work ch until the middle of next side (i.e. in the middle between 1st and 2nd corner) as follows: Work 1 ch for every ch/dc skipped. Then work pattern as before until the middle between 3rd and 4th corner. Now work ch until beg of round as follows: Work 1 ch for every ch/dc skipped. On next round work pattern and inc as before over all sts, also in ch for armholes.
Continue like this until square measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cmx 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' x 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' (i.e. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' in all sizes from armhole). Fasten off.

FRONT PIECE:
Now work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE! Work front piece without inc.
1st ROW: Work from first corner as follows: 3 dc in ch-space in the corner, * ch 3, 1 dc in ch-space *, repeat from *-* ending with 3 ch and 3 dc in the corner.
2nd ROW: Turn and work like this: 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, * 1 dc in the ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* ending with 1 dc in the last ch-space and 1 dc in each of the 3 dc.
3rd ROW: Turn and work like this: 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, * ch 3, 1 dc in the ch-space *, repeat from *-* and end with 3 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 3 dc.
Continue repeating 2nd and 3rd row.
Continue working like this until 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' have been worked back and forth, fasten off. Repeat on the other side, now work back and forth from third to fourth corner. Finally work a round around the entire square, work pattern as before but in ch-space in each corner work 6 dc. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round, top down from armhole, beg from mid under sleeve from RS.
ROUND 1: Work 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * 1 dc in next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 16-17-18-19-20-21 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
ROUND 2: Work ch 5, * 1 dc in next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 16-17-18-19-20-21 times in total, work ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
Repeat 1st and 2nd ROUND - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc + 3 ch at beg of 4th-6th-6th-8th-8th-6th round by working 2 dc tog – READ DECREASE TIP – mid under sleeve. Repeat dec every 6th-6th-6th-4th-4th-4th round = 12-12-13-13-14-14 dc. Repeat round without dec until sleeve measures approx. 56 cm / 22'' in all sizes. Fasten off. Work another sleeve.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.10.2014
FRONT PIECE:
Now work back and forth between first and second corner. NOTE! Work front piece without inc.
1st ROW: Work from first corner as follows: 3 dc ch in ch-space in the corner, * ch 3, 1 dc ch in ch-space *, repeat from *-* ending with 3 ch and 3 dc ch in the corner.
2nd ROW: Turn and work like this: 1 dc ch in each of the first 3 dc ch, * 1 dc ch in the ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* ending with 1 dc ch in the last ch-space and 1 dc ch in each of the 3 dc.
3rd ROW: Turn and work like this: 1 dc ch in each of the first 3 dc ch, * ch 3, 1 dc ch in the ch-spance *, repeat from *-* and end with 3 ch and 1 dc ch in each of the last 3 dc ch.
Continue repeating 2nd and 3rd row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sl st
= dc in st below
= dc in ch-space below
= 4th ROUND
= corner no
= here inc 1 extra dc + 3 ch in ch-space every 6th round


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-42) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (123)

Michala 02.08.2019 - 07:56:

Dobrý den,prosím o radu ohledně předního dílu. Dle návodu jsem udelala první řadu a práci otočila. Začít se má opět 3 DS do obloucku řo v rohu. Ten tam teď ale žádný nemám,když se končí 3 DS. Můžete poradit prosím? Děkuji moc.

Dana Brunovská 26.04.2018 - 19:44:

Opakujeme 4. kruhovou řadu s přidáváním, tj. v každé kruhové řadě háčkujeme mezi každými dvěma rohy o 1 DS + 3 řo více (= v jedné kruhové řadě přidáme celkem 4x) a SOUČASNĚ v každé 6. kruhové řadě přidáme navíc ještě 1 DS + 3 řo na každé straně každého rohu – viz hvězdička ve schématu (= 8 přidání - ja to pridavanie v kazdom 6. riadku nevidim na fotografii - naozaj ste to tak robili ? vdaka za odpoved

Rabia Rehman 17.04.2018 - 16:38:

Thank you so much for the reply. I understand how to do armholes, I have to make ch stitch until the middle of 1 corner & 2corner. My questions are: First, how many ch stitch should I do for medium jacket. Secondly, when we will start round1 then how many dc groups should I do in armhole ch space.

DROPS Design 18.04.2018 kl. 08:57:

Dear Mrs Rehman, the number of chains you will crochet for armhole is the same as the number of sts you will skip. Count how many sts you have from corner to middle of side and crochet this number of chain for armhole. On next round after chains, crochet pattern in the chain-spaces as before, check previous rows to have the correct number of sts (+ inc in the corner). Happy crocheting!

Rabia REHMAN 14.04.2018 - 01:44:

Can you please explain me how to crochet armholes? I honestly cannot get the pattern. Thank you

DROPS Design 14.04.2018 kl. 13:11:

Dear Rabia, the armholes is worked from a corner downwards up to aprox. the middle of the side. You work a chain stitch row which depends on your size and then it's fastened off with a dc (sc) I hope this helps.

Pamela Velasquez 04.04.2018 - 13:27:

I understand the first row of the sleeve but when attaching your yarn to the armhole on the sweater to start the sleeve do you attach to a chain 3 space or dc on the armhole?

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 16:04:

Dear Mrs Velasquez, you will join the yarn mid under arm in a ch-space. Happy crocheting!

Pamela Velasquez 03.04.2018 - 17:17:

Thank you for your quick response. One more question, when joining your yarn for the sleeve do you join in a chain 3 or dc?

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 08:30:

Dear Mrs Velasquez, 1st round on sleeve start with 6 ch = 1st dc + 1st ch-space so that you join with a sl st in the 3rd of the 6 ch (= in the first dc at the beg of round). Happy crocheting!

Pamela Velasquez 02.04.2018 - 18:31:

I’m starting a sleeve & according to the size I’m making I should have 17 repeats on first row but I have more chain 3’s than that. Do I need to skip or decrease to get the right amount?

DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 09:36:

Dear Mrs Velasquez, if your tension is correct, you should have 17 groups of (1 dc, 3 ch) around sleeve. Make sure to skip sts evenly to get the correct number of dc to avoid the sleeve being too large. Happy crocheting!

Zdena 26.03.2018 - 14:04:

Dobrý den,až do místa v návodu :"Nyní háčkujeme průramky" jsem se poměrně radovala, jak mi to pěkně jde a nyní mi ty průramky vůbec nejdou na rozum.Rozumím tomu správně, že průramek je otvor pro budoucí rukáv? Zdá se mi, že bych dle návodu udělala jeden průramek z rohu 1.do poloviny řady a druhý od poloviny řady mezi rohy 3. a 4. až k rohu č. 1???Budu moc ráda za radu a předem děkuji.

DROPS Design 27.03.2018 kl. 06:48:

Dobrý den, Zdeno, ano rozumíte tomu správně :-): průramky jsou otvory pro ruce/rukáv. První uháčkujeme od 1. rohu (horní roh, rameno) do poloviny řady mezi 1. a 2. rohem, pak pokračujeme jako před tím podél boku ke 2. rohu, podél dolního okraje ke 3. rohu (= dolní) a nahoru podél druhého boku - zde od poloviny řady uháčkujeme 2. průramek, končíme 4. rohem (= 2. horní, rameno. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Marta 19.10.2017 - 15:02:

Hi, I have a question on how to do the sleeve. I don't understand where the decrease has to be done, it says that has to be done at "4th-6th-6th-8th-8th-6th round" but I do not understand to what relates these numbers. Thanks for the help :)

DROPS Design 19.10.2017 kl. 16:55:

Dear Marta, each number refers to the size, ie in 1st size dec every 4th round, in 2nd size every 6th round and so on. Happy crocheting!

Anja 04.11.2016 - 18:51:

Sorry, maar dit vind ik dus echt een flut-antwoord. Met alle respect, wat moet ik hier nu mee? Kan iemand serieus antwoord geven a.u.b.?

DROPS Design 07.11.2016 kl. 13:24:

Het vest op de foto is op de beschreven manier gehaakt. Ik weet niet waarom de ontwerpster voor deze type meerdering heeft gekozen, maar ze heeft er waarschijnlijk een goede reden voor. Dus u kunt het patroon volgen - of aanpassen als het niet bevalt. Fijne dag verder!

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