DROPS Silke-Tweed
DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
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DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 73-12
DROPS design: Pattern no A-104
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL
Materials: DROPS Silke-Tweed from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350 g colour no 08, beige
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 g colour no 17, light beige

DROPS Circular needle and double pointed needles size 4 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm
DROPS Coconut button no 516: 1 item
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Silke-Tweed
DROPS Silke-Tweed
52% Silk, 48% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 21 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm with needle size 4 mm and stocking stitch. Remember needle size is only a guide!

Ridge/Garter stitch (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Pattern: See diagrams - M.1 and M.2. Pattern in diagram is seen from right side.
M.2 contracts - to keep to the measurements in the sketch, you must dampen the pattern.

Band: The bands are worked in garter stitch upwards - to make the bands neat, you need to work quite tightly.

Decrease tip-1 (for V-neck):
Decrease on inside of 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are worked from the right side! Decrease as follows after these 3 stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over. Decrease as follows before the 3 stitches: K2 together.

Decrease tip-2 (for decreases to raglan):
Decrease on inside of 2 stitches as described in text. Decrease as follows from the right side: After raglan stitches: K2 together. Before raglan stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over. Decrease as follows from wrong side: After raglan stitches: Purl 2 twisted together. Before raglan stitches: Purl 2 together.
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Body: The jacket is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front.

Cast on 183-205-227-239 stitches (incl. 3 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm and Silke-Tweed and work M.1, but band stitches are not worked into pattern. NOTE! Row 1 = wrong side - on row 2 in pattern finish with knit 1 and 3 band stitches. After M.1 increase 1 stitch in Sizes S, M and L = 184-206-228-239 stitches, at the same time on next row work as follows: 3 band stitches in garter stitch, M.2 over the next 176-198-220-231 stitches, finish with knit 2 and 3 band stitches in garter stitch. Remember the knitting tension!

Read the whole of the next section before continuing!

Continue with M.2 until piece measures approx. 21 cm - adjust to after 1 whole repeat of pattern. Now insert 1 marker thread 46-52-57-60 stitches in from each side = 92-102-114-119 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Continue with stocking stitch to finished length. At the same time, when piece measures 21 cm decrease for V-neck - see Decrease tip-1: 1 stitch a total of 12-13-14-15 times every 6th row. When piece measures 36-37-38-39 cm, cast off 8 stitches in each side for armholes (i.e. 4 stitches on each side of marker threads). There are now 84-94-106-111 stitches on back piece. Lay piece to one side and work sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 56-56-56-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and Silke-Tweed and work M.1. After M.1 continue with M.2 at the same time as, on the first round, you decrease 1 stitch in all sizes = 55-55-55-55 stitches.

When piece measures 15 cm, continue with stocking stitch to finished length. At the same time, increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve a total of 13-16-16-18 times, for Size S: Every 7th round. Size M: Every 6th round. Size L: Every 5th round and Size XL: Every 4th round. NOTE! In Sizes L and XL continue to increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve a total of 4 times every 2nd round = 81-87-95-99 stitches. When piece measures 52-52-51-50 cm cast off 8 stitches mid under sleeve for armholes = 73-79-87-91 stitches. Lay piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

Yoke: Place sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you have cast off stitches for armholes. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between body and sleeves = 4 marker threads. Continue with stocking stitch back and forth on needle at the same time as you decrease to raglan:

Raglan decrease: Read the whole section before continuing. There are 8 decreases per row and 2 stitches between decreases (i.e. 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads). These 2 stitches = raglan stitches and are worked in stocking stitch.

Decrease on each side of the raglan stitches - see Decrease tip: 

1 stitch a total of 20-18-15-17 times every 2nd row and 1 stitch a total of 10-16-24-24 times every row.

NOTE! On the front pieces, the raglan decreases will eventually overlap with the neck decreases and there will, therefore, not be as many as on the back piece - the numbers above are for the decreases on the back piece, decreases on front pieces continue until you meet the neck.

After all decreases to raglan and neck there are approx. 50 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 57-60-62-64 cm up to shoulder. NOTE! After decreases to raglan, place the 3 garter stitch stitches in each side on 1 thread.

Assembly: Place the 3 garter stitch stitches on left front piece on needle size 4 mm. Continue with garter stitch until edge measures approx. 10-12 cm (measured to mid back, the edge will be stretched slightly when sewn on). Repeat over the 3 stitches on right front piece. Sew the two ridge edges together mid back and neatly sew the edge to the neckline in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

Sew the opening under the sleeves.

Neckline: Crochet with hook size 3 mm and Cotton Viscose - start after M.2 on right front piece, i.e. where the neckline begins. Work as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip 4 rows (= 2 ridges), 1 double crochet in next row *, repeat from *-* around the neck and finish where the neckline starts on left front piece. Crochet in the same way around bottom of body and sleeves, but work 1 double crochet in each yarn over from M.1.

Button loop: Crochet a loop on the wrong side of the right front piece where M.2 stops. Work with Silke-Tweed and hook size 3 mm: 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, fasten with 1 double crochet 1 cm higher up. Sew 1 button on wrong side of left front piece.

“Belt”: Work a line of chain stitches - approx. 130 cm long - and thread it into the last row of holes in M.2 on body.

Diagram

symbols = 1 knit
symbols = 1 purl
symbols = 1 yarn over
symbols = K2 together
symbols = Work as follows from wrong side: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, purl 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Christine wrote:

Hi, I think there maybe an error at the point of 21cm and the decreasing shaping the V neck. It says to dec 1 st every 6 rows. Should it be every 4 rows otherwise there will be too many rows worked before the arm hole? I hope that makes sense. Thanks.

23.10.2023 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, V-neck decreases are right that way, they start quite soon, ie before the armhole and are smoothy worked on every 6th row. Happy knitting!

24.10.2023 - 09:03

country flag Margit wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zum Muster am Ärmel. In M2 heißt es in Reihe 4, dass die 3 Maschen von links gestrickt werden sollen: 1 li abheben, 2 li zusammen stricken, die abgehobene überziehen. Wie mache ich das beim Rundstricken des Ärmels? Da habe ich ja kein stricken von li, und wenn ich das von rechts stricke, sieht es anders aus.

02.02.2022 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margit, wenn Sie M.2 in Runden stricken, stricken Sie 3 Maschen rechts zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.02.2022 - 08:29

country flag Tina wrote:

Beim Raglan abketten schreiben sie: 1 M total 20-18-15-17 Mal auf alle 2.Ndl und 1 M total 10-16-24-24 Mal auf alle Ndl. Bedeutet dass, das 20 mal nur auf der Hinreihe abgekettet wird, und dann 10 mal auf der Hin- und Rückreihe? Oder was bedeutet: auf alle 2. Ndl, und auf alle Ndl?

09.11.2021 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tina, ja genau, 20 Mal in jeder Hinreihe dann 10 Mal in jeder Reihe (Hin- sowie Rückreihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.11.2021 - 13:12

country flag Kate Beckett wrote:

With the band ditches do I need to add these in myself ? How far apart how many stitches ?

02.11.2021 - 22:36

country flag Kate Beckett wrote:

I don’t understand how the band stitches are added in. Are these already included or do I need to add them ? How many stitches would it require ? And how many spaces ?

02.11.2021 - 22:35

country flag Janne wrote:

Hvilken garngruppe tilhørte garnet Silke-Tweed som er utgått til denne oppskriften 73-12? Hva kan jeg bruke som alternativ?

02.06.2021 - 11:28

country flag Sylvia Karlsson wrote:

Mönstret i diagram 2 stämmer inte. Rättelse

19.11.2014 - 17:13

country flag Meg wrote:

Er det ikke feil i v-fellinga. Begge er etter kantmaskene.

15.01.2014 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Det stemmer, inden de 3 m strikker du 2 r sammen. God fornøjelse!

06.02.2014 - 08:02