DROPS Extra / 0-986

Mr. Kringle's Stocking by DROPS Design

DROPS Christmas: Knitted DROPS Christmas stocking with Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-721
Yarn group B
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Sock height: approx. 35 cm
Foot length: approx. 25 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 48, wine red
100 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm – for folding edge.
ACCESSORIES: 1 meter red silk ribbon for hanging

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100% Wool
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DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See patterns A-1 to A-3. Pattern is worked in stocking st.

HEEL:
Worked back and forth in stocking st.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work until 1 st remains, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Slip first st as if to P, tighten yarn and work until 1 st remains, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): Slip first st as if to K, tighten yarn and work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= WS): Slip first st as if to P, tighten yarn and work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
Continue like this until 18 sts remain in the middle on the needle. Continue back and forth but now work 1 st more for every row over heel. To avoid holes in the transitions, lift the yarn before the st to be knitted up and slip it twisted on the needle. Work the yarn tog with st. Work like this until all heel sts have been worked.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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CHRISTMAS STOCKING:
Worked in the round on needle.
Cast on 80 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with wine red. Work in stocking st for 3 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm, work 1 round as follows: K 2 tog, 1 YO. K 3 rounds. Distribute sts so that there are 20 sts on each of the 4 double pointed needles. Work A-1, then continue with A-2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A-2 has been worked 3 times in total vertically (piece measures approx. 29 cm), cut the strands. Now work heel over sts from 1st and 4th needle (= 40 sts), slip the other 40 sts (= on top of foot) on 1 stitch holder. Beg from RS, work 1 row with wine red and 1 row with off white over the 40 heel sts AT THE SAME TIME work HEEL - see explanation above. Continue in stocking st back and forth with wine red AT THE SAME TIME work heel. Work until 2 rows remain on heel. Then work 1 row off white and 1 row wine red. Then slip the 40 sts from stitch holder back on needle and work in the round over all 80 sts with wine red as follows (beg round on 2nd needle, i.e. after heel): Work A-2 as before over the 40 sts mid on top of foot, work 1 st wine red, 1 st off white, work A-3 (= 6 sts) over the next 36 sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st (after the first 18 sts) so that pattern beg and ends the same way in each side and finish with 1 st off white and 1 st wine red. Work pattern A.2 2 times vertically after heel and finish with next to last row in pattern A.2 (approx. 4.5 cm remain until finished measurements). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 40 sts on top of foot and 41 sts under foot. Continue with 1 round wine red and 1 round off white, then work in stocking st with wine red AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of each marker as follows - READ DECREASE TIP: Dec every other round a total of 6 times, then every round a total of 4 times. Place the sock flat and sew tog sts on the top side of toe with sts on the under side with grafting/kitchener stitches. Fasten off.
Fold the upper edge inward, sew with small stitches on the inside without being too tight.
Thread a silk ribbon at the top on the back of stocking, this is used for hanging.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.12.2013
New diagram A.3

Diagram

= wine red
= off white

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-986) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Guillermina Bejarano 20.08.2017 - 18:59:

Buenas tardes. Es posible tejerlo todo con agujas circulares sin usar las de doble punta? Gracias

DROPS Design 22.08.2017 kl. 20:26:

Hola Guillermina. Puedes trabajar el patrón con una aguja circular corta o con dos agujas circulares

Emily 16.01.2016 - 23:31:

After working the first 1" in red, I am confused by the next set of instructions. Is it Row 1: K2tog, YO Row 2-4: K Or is it K2tog, YO, K I'm a newbie to fair isle and reading patterns like this.

DROPS Design 18.01.2016 kl. 14:08:

Dear Emily, on 1st round after the 1" stocking, change to larger needle size and work (K2 tog, YO), then work 3 rounds K - see video below for this picot edge. Happy knitting!

Katharina Louise Williamsen 03.10.2015 - 19:00:

Ser her flere som sliter me hælen, det gjør nå også jeg... Har kommet dit hvor jeg skal begynne å strikke flere masker igjen, og ser at oppskrifta og videoen dere har lagt ut her viser to forskjellige ting.. har prøvd begge, plukke opp to masker før den nye, for så å strikke 3 sammen og løfte tråden før masken, sette den vridd på pinnen og strikke 2 sammen...men får hull uansett....hva gjør æ galt?

DROPS Design 06.10.2015 kl. 14:44:

Hej, Jo men det er helt rigtigt som du gør, men sørg for at stramme tråden. God fornøjelse!

Katharina Louise Williamsen 28.09.2015 - 05:11:

Hei! Lurer på hullmønsteret... Om det strikkes på settp, og annenhver 2r sm, 1 kast, ender jeg opp med at siste maske på pinnen er ei kast maske? den holder seg jo ikke der uten at det strikkes ei maske utafor? Jeg får det i allefall ikke til. Gjør jeg noe feil? Enkleste ville jo vært å strikke det på rundpinner, hadde jeg hatt det, men har brukt settp hele veien.. Men dette kan ikke være feilen heller, for oppskriften sier jo at man skal bytte fra rundp til settp FØR hullene..

DROPS Design 01.10.2015 kl. 17:00:

Jo men du strikker også rundt på settp, så du fortsætter bare rundt rundt, så stemmer det! God fornøjelse!

Birte 05.01.2015 - 19:52:

Hallo! Muss ich bei der Ferse nach der 4. Reihe so weiter stricken, wie in der 4 oder wieder mit der 1. Reihe anfangen?

DROPS Design 11.01.2015 kl. 16:10:

Weder noch - Sie stricken folgerichtig weiter, d.h. Sie heben in der 5. R 1 M wie zum Rechtsstr ab, ziehen den Faden an und stricken, bis noch 3 M übrig sind, dann wenden Sie. In der 6. R 1 M wie zum Linksstr abheben, den Faden anziehen, stricken bis noch 3 M übrig sind, wenden. 7. R: 1 M wie zum Rechtsstr abh, Faden anziehen, stricken bis noch 4 M übrig sind usw. Wenn noch 18 M auf der Nadel sind, stricken Sie umgekehrt, d.h. immer 1 M mehr.

Carina 14.12.2014 - 14:38:

Jeg forstår ikke helt det med at lave udtagningen efter 18 m i hælen, da mønsteret jo faktisk går op selv hvis man undlader denne udtagning... Eller er der noget jeg ikke forstår?

DROPS Design 18.12.2014 kl. 16:26:

Hej Carina. Du skal lave udtagningen igen for at faa den hael som er meningen paa denne sok.

Lori 14.10.2014 - 02:18:

Please indicate which type heel this is. I am not able to follow the directions as stated. Thank you

DROPS Design 14.10.2014 kl. 09:32:

Dear Lori, this is here a heel knitted in diagonal, the video below shows how to work this heel. Happy knitting!

Barb 01.10.2014 - 14:43:

Thanks for the quick response, I'm afraid I didn't state the problem well. At the start of the heel doing one row of wine then one row of white A. leaves the yarns at the opposite ends of where they need to be for the next time you need them and B.the first row of wine makes a break in the line ...should the first st. of the heel not be white for continuity? I find it just does not work well. I have spent over 20 hours on trying to get this heel to work.....please help.

DROPS Design 01.10.2014 kl. 15:23:

Dear Barb, before starting heel you have to cut the strands and then work diagonal heel over 1st and 4th needle starting with 1 row red, 1 row off-white - see below. If you rather want to have a off-white st on this place, you may work it or embroider it with duplicate sts. Happy knitting!

Barb 27.09.2014 - 20:16:

Why can I not get the lines on the heel to match up with A3 pattern when I go back to knitting in the round after the heel is completed.

DROPS Design 29.09.2014 kl. 09:27:

Dear Barb, heel should be worked as follows : 1 st red, 1 st off-white, repeat A.3 a total of 6 times increasing 1 st after the first 18 sts (= you will work A.3 6 times + 1st st in A.3 to get both sides the same), 1 st off white, 1 st red (= 41 sts). Happy knitting!

Susan Burns 13.08.2014 - 16:15:

We are using this pattern in my knitting group to make Christmas stocking, but we are having trouble understanding and following the heel instruction's. I have now decided to knit this part separate and I have worked the first four rows. When it says continue until you have 18sts remain in the middle of needle, I don't understand what to so to achieve this? Do I continue knitting less stitches so the next row would be 3sts remain? Thanks

DROPS Design 14.08.2014 kl. 12:30:

Dear Mrs Burns, this pattern uses the technique of the diagonal heel, it is worked as shown in the video below. Happy knitting!

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