Little Oliver by DROPS Design

Crochet sweater with vent and buttons at the front in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size children 3 - 12 years.

Tags: stripes, sweaters,

DROPS design: Pattern no me-014-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 68-74-78-82-86 cm / 26 3/4"-29"-30 3/4"-32 1/4"-34"
Full length: 40-44-48-52-56 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20½"-22"

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g color no 23, gray blue
200-200-200-250-250 g color no 15, light greyish green

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 sts x 12 rows with pattern= 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOOD BUTTON BURNED, NO 513: 2-2-3-3-3 pieces

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every sc row replace first sc with 1 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 3 ch.

PATTERN ON BODY:
ROW 1: 1 dc in every sc in light greyish green.
ROW 2: 1 sc in every dc in light greyish green.
ROW 3: 1 dc in every sc in gray blue.
ROW 4: 1 sc in every dc gray blue.
Repeat rows 1 to 4.

PATTERN SLEEVE:
ROW 1: 1 sc in every dc gray blue.
ROW 2: 1 dc in every sc in gray blue.
ROW 3: 1 sc in every dc gray blue.
ROW 4: 1 dc in every sc in gray blue.
ROW 5: 1 sc in every dc gray blue.
ROW 6: 1 dc in every sc in gray blue.
ROW 7: 1 sc in every dc in light greyish green.
ROW 8: 1 dc in every sc in light greyish green.
Repeat rows 1 to 8.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by working 2 sts tog.
Work 2 sc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull thread through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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JUMPER:
To make the texture the same on the piece work all parts back and forth and sew tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Chain 67-71-76-81-85 with gray blue on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next 2-6-4-2-6 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 58-62-66-70-74 sc (first ch = 1 sc). READ CROCHET INFO!
Turn and work 4 rows with 1 sc in every sc. Then work PATTERN BODY until finished measurements - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4"-5"-5½", inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in the second and next to last st.
Repeat inc when piece measures 20-21-22-23-24 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½" = 62-66-70-74-78 sts.
When piece measures approx. 27-30-33-36-39 cm / 10½"-11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4"-15 1/4" (make sure that next row is a row with sc), dec for armholes as follows: Work sl sts over the first 4 dc, then work sc until 4 dc remain, turn. * Ch 3 (= 1 dc), then work the next 2 dc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP, then work dc until 3 sc remain, work the next 2 dc tog, then 1 dc in last sc.
Turn and work 1 row with sc over all sts, turn *. Repeat from *-* 3 more times = 46-50-54-58-62 sts on row.
Continue to work until piece measures approx. 39-43-47-51-55 cm / 15 1/4"-17"-18½"-20"-21½". Now work 2 rows with pattern as before only over the 12-13-14-16-17 sts in each side (the middle 22-24-26-26-28 sts = neck). Fasten off.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece until piece measures approx. 27-30-33-36-39 cm / 10½"-11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4"-15 1/4" (make sure that next row is a row with sc) = 62-66-70-74-78 dc. Now beg armhole dec - at the same time divide mid front for vent.
1ST SIDE:
Work sl sts over the first 4 dc, then work sc over the next 29-31-33-35-37 dc. * Turn and work dc until 3 sc remain, work the next 2 dc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP, then work 1 dc in last sc. Turn and work sc over all dc *, repeat from *-* 3 more times. 8 sts have been dec in total for armhole and 25-27-29-31-33 sts remain on row.
Continue as before. When piece measures approx. 35-38-42-45-49 cm / 13 3/4"-15"-16½"-17 3/4"-19 1/4" (make sure that next row beg from the side), beg neck dec.
Now only work over the first 17-18-19-21-22 sts. Turn and work back - at the same time work the first 4 sts towards neck tog 2 by 2 – SEE DECREASE TIP!
On next row work the 2 outermost sts towards neck tog, repeat this dec on every row 2 more times = 12-13-14-16-17 sts remain on shoulder.
Continue to work until piece measures 40-44-48-52-56 cm / 15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20½"-22", fasten off.
2ND SIDE:
Beg mid front and work 1 sc at the back of each of the outermost 4 sts from 1st side (so that the button bands overlap at the bottom). Then work sc until 4 dc remain, turn and work back. Then work this side as 1st side.

SLEEVE:
Worked top down.
Chain 32-35-38-43-46 on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with gray blue.
Work first row as follows: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 2-1-0-1-0 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 24-26-28-32-34 sc on row (this is 1st row in PATTERN SLEEVE - see explanation above). Then continue stripes as explained in PATTERN SLEEVE. AT THE SAME TIME inc in each side on every row with dc as follows:
Inc on every dc-row by working 2 dc in st inside outermost st in each side (= 1 dc inc in each side – NOTE: on rows with sc work 1 sc in every dc without inc).
Continue inc like this until there are 38-40-42-46-48 sts on row (adjust so that next row is a row with sc).
Cut the yarn and work as follows: ch 4 loosely, work 1 sc in each of the 38-40-42-46-48 dc on row and then work 6 loose ch, turn piece and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, work 1 dc in each of the 38-40-42-46-48 sc on row and finish with 1 dc in each of the 4 ch at the end of row = 46-48-50-54-56 dc on row. Insert 1 marker at the end in one side of piece. Sleeve cap is now done. Continue down the sleeve as follows:
Continue with PATTERN SLEEVE in stripes as before. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from marker, dec 1 dc/sc in each side by working the second and third dc/sc and the 2 next to last dc/sc tog – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4th-4th-5th-5th-5th row 5-6-6-7-8 more times (= 6-7-7-8-9 dec in total) = 34-34-36-38-38 sts on row.
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures approx. 30-34-39-43-47 cm / 11 3/4"-13½"-15 1/4"-17"-18½" – stop after 1 stripe with light greyish green, work with gray blue until finished measurements.
When piece measures 35-39-43-47-51 cm / 13 3/4"-15 1/4"-17"-18½"-20", fasten off. Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew in the sleeves in body. Sew the buttons on right side of mid front and button through sts.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge up along the vent mid front, around the neck and down along the other vent at the front.
Beg from RS and work with gray blue on hook size 4 mm / G/6 as follows:
Work 1 sc in 1st st, * ch 1, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* - make sure that the edge is nice and even. Fasten off.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.03.2014
SLEEVE: Cut the yarn and work as follows: ...and finish with 1 dc in each of the 4 ch at the end of row = 46-48-50-54-56 dc on row. ... +
Continue with PATTERN SLEEVE in stripes as before....= 34-34-36-38-38 sts on row. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Colleen 24.05.2019 - 17:13:

Would like to know, in American Yarn terms, what weight of yarn and how much yarn is necessary for this project ?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 02:07:

Dear Colleen, the yarn used for this piece is about DK weight, 50 gramms / 105 meters. You would need 250-250-300-300-350 gramms (5-7 balls of 50 gramms) from the base color, and 200-200-200-250-250 gramms (4-5 balls) of the contrast color. Happy Knitting!

Debora 10.03.2019 - 08:27:

Grazie mille!

Debora 10.03.2019 - 08:05:

Buongiorno, non mi trovo con le diminuzioni per il collo. Sono arrivata a lavorare le 21 maglie per la taglia 9-10. Quindi ho diminuito di 2 maglie nella riga seguente e di 1 in quella successiva. Dovendo ripetere queste diminuzioni per altre 2 volte, non si arriva a 15 maglia invece che alle 16 indicate per la spalla? Grazie!

DROPS Design 10.03.2019 kl. 08:24:

Buongiorno Debora. Deve diminuire una volta 2 maglie e poi per 3 volte una maglia sola . Quindi in tutto 5 maglie diminuite per lo scollo. Buon lavoro!

Debora 05.02.2019 - 10:57:

Buongiorno, volevo sapere se esiste un tutorial che faccia vedere la realizzazione delle maniche. Non mi è chiara in particolare la parte in cui viene descritto come completare l'arrotondamento delle maniche. grazie!

DROPS Design 05.02.2019 kl. 21:29:

Buongiorno Debora. La manica è lavorata dall'alto verso il basso. Per l'arrotondamento, deve lavorare 2 m.a nella seconda e nella penultima maglia solo sulle righe lavorate a maglie alte (quindi una riga sì e una no) finché non ha il numero di maglie indicato per la taglia che sta lavorando. Buon lavoro!

Delphine 14.01.2019 - 17:37:

Bonjour,Pour la fin du dos quand on fait l\'encolure, faut il crocheter les deux rangs ensemble du côté droit puis couper le fil et faire le côté gauche? Merci d\'avance Delphine

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 17:44:

Bonjour Delphine, tout à fait, les 2 épaules vont se terminer séparément, après les 2 rangs sur la 1ère épaule, coupez le fil et crochetez les 2 rangs sur la 2ème épaule. Bon crochet!

Sybille 16.09.2018 - 15:14:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, bitte erklären Sie mir die Korrekturen für die Anleitung zum Anfertigen der Ärmel. Liebe Grüße Sybille

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 09:19:

Liebe Sybille, die Anleitung wurde schon korrigiert, wenn Sie sie aber vor dem 03.03.2014 gedrückt haben, Klicken Sie einfach auf dem Link im rot um die Korrektur zu lesen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Marlene Jørgensen 15.04.2018 - 21:55:

Er der mig der laver fejl, eller der drr en fejli i opskriften? Der står ma skal til den størrelse jwg vil lave, starter med 76 lm. Det bliver sp reduceret til 66, skriver i, men ligegyldigt hca jeg gør, så ender jeg med 65 fm til 2.- 4. række?

DROPS Design 25.04.2018 kl. 13:40:

Hei Marlene Har du husket å telle med den første lm på omgangen? Oppskriften sier: (første lm = 1 fm) Etter de 5 første maskene på omgangen skal det hekles slik: *hopp over 1 lm, hekle fm i neste 6lm* ut omgangen = 10 rapporter av 6 masker. De 5 første maskene + 60 lm + lm fra starten av omgangen = 66 masker. God fornøyelse

Lene Lund 20.03.2018 - 16:16:

Hej. Hvad står tallene for i diagrammet ? Er det antal masker eller cm. ?

DROPS Design 21.03.2018 kl. 12:12:

Hei Lene. Tallene i målskissen står for cm. mvh Drops design

Marianne 24.08.2017 - 17:49:

Bonjour Pour le début (bas du dos ou devant), est-ce un problème si on monte 63 mailles chaînette et qu'on fait ainsi 62 mailles serrées directement ? (Pour la taille 5-6 ans)

DROPS Design 28.08.2017 kl. 10:46:

Chere Marianne, le bord peut etre trop serre. Bon crochet!

Geja 10.07.2017 - 09:46:

In welke steek moet het proeflapje/stekenproef gehaakt worden?

DROPS Design 10.07.2017 kl. 18:15:

Hoi Geja, Het proeflapje moet in patroon gebreid worden. Het patroon staat verderop (na de intro) uitgelegd.

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