DROPS Extra / 0-908

Henny Penny by DROPS Design

DROPS Easter: Crochet DROPS chicken basket in "Nepal".

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-080
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. height 22 cm / 8 3/4''

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
200 g color no 0206m, light beige
50 g color no 3620, red
Some left-over yarn color no 2923, goldenrod
Some left-over yarn color no 0612, medium brown
Some left-over yarn color no 1101, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, work ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end at the back. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= first sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc and 1st sc on round, move the marker upwards when working.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sc in next sc.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: * Insert hook in next sc, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.
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BASKET:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the bottom of basket with light beige on hook size 4 mm / G/6.
ROUND 1: Work 8 sc in the magic circle. Read WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE above.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc - Read INCREASE TIP above = 16 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 sc.
ROUND 6 (and then on every even numbered round): Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 sc.
ROUND 11: * 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 sc.
ROUND 13: * 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84 sc.
ROUND 17: * 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 sc.
ROUND 21: * 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc, inc 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 120 sc.
Then work 1 sc in every sc until basket measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' vertically. When the last sc on the last round has been worked, move the marker to the 12th sc from hook (on the right side of the last sc, end of round = mid front of head). Do not cut the yarn.

HEAD:
Continue working 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, there are now 24 sc in total counted from the st with marker. Now work the head in the round over these 24 sts as follows: Turn the basket so that st with marker is towards you, work 1 sc in this sc (this st is now 1st sc on round, move the marker upwards), continue with 1 sc in each of the next 23 sc = 24 sc on round. Move the marker upwards when working. Then work 1 sc in every sc for 5 more rounds (= 6 rounds in total).
Then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc, dec 1 sc - READ DECREASE TIP above *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 20 sc.
ROUND 2: * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, dec 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, dec 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in next sc, dec 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 8 sc.
ROUND 5: Work all sc tog 2 by 2 = 4 sc, cut the yarn. Sew the last 4 sc tog with yarn end.

COCK'S COMB:
Worked back and forth. Ch 20 with red, then 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sl st in every ch = 19 sl sts, turn. Skip 1st sl st, in next sl st work: 1 dc, 1 tr and 1 dc, skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work: 2 dc, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work: 2 dc, 3 tr and 2 dc, skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work: 2 dc, 1 tr and 2 dc, skip 1 sl st, 1 sc in next sl st, skip 1 sl st, in next sl st work: 1 dc, 1 tr and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in the last sl st, fasten off.

BEAK:
Worked back and forth. Ch 2 with goldenrod.
ROW 1: Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook = 2 sc, turn.
ROW 2: Work ch 1, inc 1 sc in every sc = 4 sc, turn
ROW 3-4: Work ch 1, 1 sc in every sc.
ROW 5: ch 1, work all sc tog 2 by 2 = 2 sc.
ROW 6: ch 1, work the 2 sc tog = 1 sc. Fasten off.

TAIL:
Worked back and forth. Ch 12 with red, then 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in every ch = 11 sc, turn. Skip 1st sc, in next sc work 3 dc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, skip 1 sc, in next sc work as follows: 1 dc, 3 tr and 1 dc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, skip 1 sc, in next sc work 3 dc, finish with 1 sl st in last sc, fasten off.

WING:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE in light beige.
Work rounds 1 to 17 as on basket = 96 sc.
ROUND 18: Switch to red and work as follows: * 1 sc, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, fasten off.

FLOWERS:
Worked in the round. Work 2 of each flower.
FLOWER 1:
ROUND 1: Ch 3 with goldenrod and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
Ch 1, 8 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in next sc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 1st sc (= 8 ch-spaces). Fasten off.
FLOWER 2:
Work as FLOWER 1 but work 1ST ROUND with goldenrod and 2ND ROUND with red.
FLOWER 3:
Work as FLOWER 1 but work 1ST ROUND with red and 2ND ROUND with goldenrod.
FLOWER 4:
Work as FLOWER 1 but work 1ST ROUND with white and 2ND ROUND with red.
FLOWER 5:
Work as FLOWER 1 but work 1ST ROUND with goldenrod and 2ND ROUND with white.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew cock's comb to the top of head, sew the tail to the other side of basket.
Sew the beak at the front of head and embroider eyes with medium brown.
Place the wing over the basket, fasten it on one side. Use the wing as a lid.
Fasten the flowers on to basket and lid.
Fill some poly stuffing, paper or similar in the top of head to fill it out.



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-908) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Kim 18.12.2019 - 23:35:

Hello! what are the full dimensions of this piece? Length is what I am looking for.

DROPS Design 19.12.2019 kl. 08:10:

Dear Kim, there are 120 sc for the basket at the largest, with 18 sc = 10 cm, piece should measure approx. 66 cm around, ie approx. 33 cm (but might be somewhat less since the body is not folded double). Happy crocheting!

Sandi 25.02.2019 - 01:05:

Can I use worsted weight 4 ply or cotton 4 ply? I can't wait to try this pattern as a purse for a friend who raises chickens. Thank you

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 06:40:

Hi Sandi, When using a different yarn from the one suggested, make sure you adjust the number of stitches and rows so you get the right measurements. Happy crocheting!

Nagy Lászlóné 14.03.2018 - 23:11:

Üdvözlöm! Az lenne a kérdésem, hogy ez a kosár hányadik körtől kezd fölfelé növekedni? Mikor kell a hátsó szálba ölteni? Mert így szabályos kört kaptam.. Köszönöm válaszát! Nagyné Timi

DROPS Design 17.03.2018 kl. 12:54:

Kedves Nagy Lászlóné! A kosár a 21. körtől növekszik fölfelé, és egészen addig kör alakú marad, amíg az egyik oldalán el nem készíti a fejet. A fej hozzáadásával "nyomódik" össze az ovális formára. Sikeres Kézimunkázást és Boldog Húsvéti Ünnepet!

Angelique 08.03.2018 - 12:05:

Hoe groot wordt de kip? en hoe groot is de cirkel dan voordat je omhoog gaat haken?

DROPS Design 09.03.2018 kl. 15:05:

Hallo Angelique, Je haakt in de rondte tot de mand 16 cm is (zie onderaan bij het 'MAND' in het patroon), daarna haak je de kip erop. De hoogte van het werk in totaal is ongeveer 22 cm.

Sylvie Lamarre 01.04.2017 - 19:10:

Comment doit-on coudre la queue de la poule ? Une photo sera utile. Merci

DROPS Design 03.04.2017 kl. 10:17:

Bonjour Mme Lamarre, la queue se coud verticalement sur le côté opposé à la tête. Bon assemblage!

Khansa 26.10.2015 - 15:00:

I am glad working with u can u help me doing tote cassarole crochet thanks

DROPS Design 27.10.2015 kl. 14:13:

Dear Khansa, we do not have this kind of pattern yet, but your request has been registered. Happy crocheting!

Khansa 14.10.2015 - 20:43:

Hi sir ilike it help me to do it and can u send the pattren pls many thanks

DROPS Design 15.10.2015 kl. 08:48:

Dear Khansa, see answer below - happy crocheting!

Khansa 14.10.2015 - 20:32:

Hi when finishing any round there must be st into the first crochet but u didnt said that u say work from✖️to✖️the entire round 40 for example where is end thanks

DROPS Design 15.10.2015 kl. 08:48:

Dear Khansa, after last st on the round, continue next round with 1 sc in next sc (= 1st sc from previous round), place a marker between last st and first st on round and move the marker upwards when working. Happy crocheting!

Lupe 31.08.2015 - 03:56:

After you finish round 21 I need to continue with sc until the basket is 6 1/2 inches, the continuing rounds are they 120 sc? How did you get the sides to stand straight? I must be doing something wrong because mine is in the shape of a bowl and the head turns out okay but the tail side is down not up.

DROPS Design 31.08.2015 kl. 10:53:

Dear Mrs Lupe, after round 21, you have 120 sc, continue over these 120 sc (= 1 sc in each sc every round) until piece measures 6 1/2 inches, since you won't increase anymore, this will create the straight shape. Happy crocheting!

Carmen 09.04.2015 - 16:45:

¡Por favor! Pongan GRÁFICOS. Quiero hacer esta gallina y no puedo. Les agradecería me enviaran el gráfico. Me es difícil entender las instrucciones y como yo, seguramente muchas personas. Un saludo, Carmen Pd. espero respuesta.

DROPS Design 12.04.2015 kl. 09:35:

Hola Carmen, el límite de espacio en la web no nos permite añadir todos los gráficos de los patrones pero si tienes alguna duda en concreto no dudes en preguntarnos

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