DROPS / 146 / 32

Marlene by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS hat in 2 threads "Bomull Lin" or 2 threads "Paris".

DROPS design: Pattern no l-119
Yarn group C and C
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Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials: DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
300-300 g colour no 02, off white
Or:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300-300 g Colour no 17, off white
And for flower decoration:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 26, grey green
50 g colour no 14, army green
50 g colour no 11, strong yellow
50 g colour no 23, brown
50 g colour no 21, beige
50 g colour no 18, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 16 dc in width x 17 rows vertically with 2 threads Bomull-Lin or Paris = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
After last dc on the round, continue to next round with 1 dc in next dc (= 1st dc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last dc and first dc on the round, move the marker upwards when working.
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HAT:
The hat is worked top down. Crochet 4 ch on hook size 3 mm with 2 threads Bomull-Lin or 2 threads Paris and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch, 5 dc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 dc in every dc = 10 dc.
ROUND 3: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 15 dc.
ROUND 4: * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* = 20 dc.
Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. Then inc 5 dc on every round, inc the same place as on previous round, i.e. 1 dc more between every inc on every round.
The circle will become a pentagon. Continue like this until 16-17 rounds in total have been worked = 80-85 dc on round. Then work in the round with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 15-16 cm from the centre. Continue to crochet the brim as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc while at the same time inc 8 dc evenly = 88-93 sts.
ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 3-19: Continue as 1st and 2nd round by inc 8 dc on uneven rounds and working dc in every dc on even rounds.
ROUND 20: Work 1 dc in every dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc = 160-165 dc.
Cut and fasten the thread.

TIE:
Work ch with Safran colour no 26 on hook size 3 mm until tie measures approx. 180 cm, cut and fasten the thread.

SMALL FLOWER:
Work as follows: 4 ch with Safran colour no 11 on hook size 3 mm and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch, 5 dc in ch-ring, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2 (switch to colour no 23): In every dc work: * 3 ch, 2 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round (= 5 leaves). Cut and fasten the thread.

LARGE FLOWER:
Work as follows: 4 ch with Safran colour no 21 on hook size 3 mm and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 ch, 5 dc in ch-ring, 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2 (switch to colour no 18): In every dc work: * 4 ch, 3 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round (= 5 leaves). Cut and fasten the thread.

LEAF:
Work the leaf with sts on both sides of a ch-row. Work 2 leaves with colour no 26 and work 1 leaf with colour no 14. Work as follows: 8 ch, turn and skip first ch, continue with 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc. Work 1 ch at the end of row, continue on the other side of row with 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc. Cut and fasten the thread.

BRANCHES:
Work 1 branch with colour no 26 and work 2 branches with colour no 14. Work as follows: 8 ch, 1 dc in tie where you want to place the branch, 8 ch, cut the threads and tie 1 knot at the bottom in beg and end of ch-row. Crochet 2 more branches.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the flowers and leaves on the tie. Place the tie 2 times around the hat before tying a bow.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 146-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (88)

Chris Kramer 19.07.2020 - 16:16:

I’d like to try this pattern with Rewind tape yarn from Lion brand. How do I convert it?

Esther Foley 12.07.2020 - 21:22:

Thank you for just letting me print it rather than having to download those extensions. I will always comeback to your site .thanks again . Esther Foley

Sabina Weinfurter 10.06.2019 - 19:43:

Betreffend der Zunahme für Krempe: genau so, wie oben? Oder 'unregelmäßig? Ist mir nicht ganz klar!

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 12:04:

Liebe Frau Weinfurter, die Zunahmen für die Krempe werden gleichmäßig verteilt zugenommen - hier lesen Sie wie man regelmäßig verteilt zunimmt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Patmartin45 07.05.2019 - 19:57:

How can I order all of the yarn for this piece for $24.90?

DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 21:15:

Dear Patmartin45, the yarn cost is calculated from the materials needed to make the pattern in its smallest size. Some yarns, like DROPS Paris, have different prices for different colors or types - in this case, DROPS Paris recycled Denim is cheaper than Paris uni and we calculate the pattern costs from the cheapest of all the different prices. You can also check out the "DROPS Deals" under the "Yarns" menu nd get this yarns for even less. Happy crocheting!

Fabienne Jaulin 06.05.2019 - 14:14:

Bonjour, J'ai fait mon échantillon avec deux fils Paris et un crochet de 3 mais j'obtiens seulement 15 ms et 15 rangs. J'ai pensé tenter avec un crochet de 2.5 mais j'ai peur que ce soit trop petit. Qu'en pensez-vous? Merci!

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 14:59:

Bonjour Mme Jaulin, vous pouvez réessayer avec le crochet 3 en crochetant un peu plus souple - juste ce qu'il faut pour avoir l'échantillon, ou bien/et essayer avec un crochet 2,5 pour voir la différence, utilisez celui qui se rapproche le plus de la bonne tension. Bon crochet!

Janni 11.06.2018 - 09:07:

Kommer man stivelse i hatten for at holde faconen, ellers den fast nok i sig selv. Ville være lidt træt af, at skyggen dækker øjnene. Men rigtigt elegant hat

DROPS Design 12.06.2018 kl. 11:22:

Hej Janni, det skal ikke være nødvendigt hvis man hækler i DROPS Bomull-Lin og overholder hæklefastheden. God fornøjelse!

Marta 22.05.2018 - 10:34:

Ik vraag me af hoe het mogelijk is om garen wat geschikt is voor een haaknaald van 5mm te haken met dubbele draad op een haaknaald van 3 mm?

DROPS Design 23.05.2018 kl. 11:09:

Dag Marta, Het is de bedoeling dat de hoed vrij strak wordt gehaakt, zodat hij mooi stevig wordt. Vandaar de kleine naald, maar je moet misschien wel de haaknaald aanpassen, zodat je je de juiste stekenverhouding hebt.

Alba 22.02.2018 - 13:43:

Buongiorno dove posso trovare i vostri filati vicini a Padova o Vicenza? Siete presenti alla fiera Abilmente di Vicenza? Vorrei fare un cappello anche in lana antiallergica che filato posso usare ?Grazie Alba

DROPS Design 22.02.2018 kl. 16:13:

Buongiorno Alba, seguendo questo link può trovare tutti i nostri rivenditori. Purtroppo non saremo presenti alla fiera di Vicenza. Per un'assistenza personalizzata sui nostri filati, contatti il rivenditore. Buon lavoro"

Julie 31.05.2016 - 15:39:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé ce superbe chapeau en suivant les instructions à la lettre en utilisant un crochet 3. Mais il semble qu'un erreur se soit produite dans les explications car le résultat est à la taille d'un bébé. Pourriez vous me dire quelle taille de crochet je dois utiliser pour avoir le même résultat? lorsque je cherche dans votre gamme de fils, il semble que le paris doit être crocheté en 5. Merci pour votre lecture et je l’espère votre réponse.

DROPS Design 31.05.2016 kl. 17:00:

Bonjour Julie, pensez à bien vérifier votre échantillon, soit 16 ms = 10 cm de large avec 2 fils Paris (ou Bomull-Lin), on crochète ici avec le fil en double et un crochet plus fin pour avoir la texture souhaitée. N'hésitez pas à ajuster les augmentations du haut du chapeau à votre taille si besoin. Bon crochet!

Anitra 08.03.2016 - 12:21:

Ik haak behoorlijk strak dus 2 draden krijg ik nooit op 3mm zelfs 1 is al moeilijk. 4mm is het kleinste waarop ik 1 draad krijg en dat voelt stevig aan in het eerste deel. Dus mijn vraag is als je heel strak haakt of hij dan met 1 draad stevig word want de stevigheid is het belangrijkste voor de rand neem ik aan? Want voor een hoed in de zomer met 2 draden word ik erg warm of niet?

DROPS Design 08.03.2016 kl. 12:41:

Hoi Anitra. Je moet de naald gebruiken die je nodig hebt voor de juiste steekverhouding: 17 v in de breedte x 17 toeren hoog. Het is voor dit model belangrijk dat het strak en stevig is - of de rand zal niet mooi vallen. Het is een katoenen hoed, het zou niet te warm worden met 2 draden.

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