DROPS / 147 / 38

Peach blossom by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and flounce at the bottom in ”Safran”. Size S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no e-207
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-94-100-110-120-134 cm /
34"-37"-39½"-47 1/4"-47 1/4"-52 3/4"
Full length: 52-53-54-59-60-61 cm + 3 cm flounce /
20½"-21"-21 1/4"-23 1/4"-23½"-24" + 1" flounce

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color no 12, peach

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 23 dc x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. When working pattern 1 repetition (= A.1 b) = approx. 3.5 cm / 1 1/4'' in width x 4 cm / 1½'' vertically (= 4 rows).

DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 6 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec at beg of row as follows: Work sl sts over no of dc to be dec.
Dec at end of row as follows: When no of dc to be dec remains, turn.
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JACKET:
Worked bottom up, back and forth from mid front. READ CROCHET INFO!
Work 246-265-284-313-342-380 ch on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next 4-5-6-5-4-6 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 205-221-237-261-285-317 sc.
Continue diagram A.1 as follows: ch 3 up from first sc, 1 dc in next sc, diagram a over the first 9 sc, diagram b until 10 sc remain, diagram c over the first 8 sc, then 1 dc in each of the last 2 sc (= 25-27-29-32-35-39 repetitions on row).
Repeat the 4 rows in A.1 upwards until piece measures approx. 32-32-32-36-36-36 cm / 12½"-12½"-12½"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"'' – finish after 4th row in diagram.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
On next row work dc as shown in 5th row in diagram, i.e. as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, * 2 dc in ch-space, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-*, finish with 2 dc in each of the last 2 ch-spaces and 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc = 204-220-236-260-284-316 dc.
Then finish front and back piece separately.

FIRST FRONT PIECE:
Work dc back and forth over the first 50-53-57-62-68-75 dc on row. At the same time dec towards the armhole on every row: 2 dc 0-0-1-2-3-5 times and 1 dc 1-2-2-3-5-6 times – SEE DECREASE TIP = 49-51-53-55-57-59 dc remain.
When piece measures 42-43-44-47-48-49 cm / 16½"-17"-17 1/4"-18½"-19"-19 1/4", beg neck dec as follows: Dec 13-13-14-14-15-15 dc 1 time, 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times = 26-28-29-31-32-34 dc remain on row.
Cut the yarn when piece measures approx. 52-53-54-59-60-61 cm / 20½"-21"-21 1/4"-23 1/4"-23½"-24".

OTHER FRONT PIECE:
Work as first front piece but reversed.

BACK PIECE:
Work dc back and forth over the middle 94-100-108-118-130-144 dc (do not work over the 5-7-7-9-9-11 sts in each side = armhole).
AT THE SAME TIME dec towards armhole in each side as on front piece = 92-96-100-104-108-112 dc.
When piece measures 50-51-52-57-58-59 cm / 19 3/4"-20"-20½"-22½"-22 3/4"-23 1/4", work 1 row only over the outermost 28-30-31-33-34-36 dc in one side for shoulder, then work 1 more row while at the same time dec 2 dc towards the neck, work the rest of row = 26-28-29-31-32-34 dc on shoulder, cut the yarn.
Piece measures approx. 52-53-54-59-60-61 cm / 20½"-21"-21 1/4"-23 1/4"-23½"-24".
Work the same way on the other shoulder.

FLOUNCE AT THE BOTTOM OF BODY:
Work in the sc row at the bottom of body as follows - beg from WS:
ROW 1: 1 sc in first sc, * ch 3, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row.
ROW 2: Turn with ch 5, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row.
ROW 3: Turn with ch 6, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row.
ROW 4: Work as follows in every ch-space: 2 sc + 1 picot (= ch 3, 1 sc in first ch) + 2 sc. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth and sewn tog at the end.
Ch 68-68-78-78-78-87 on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran.
Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in each of the next 6-6-4-4-4-7 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 57-57-65-65-65-73 sc.
Continue to work diagram A.1 as follows: Diagram a over the first 9 sc, diagram b until 8 sc remain, then diagram c (= 7-7-8-8-8-9 repetitions on row). Continue like this until the 4 rows in diagram A.1 have been worked a total of 3 times vertically.
Piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾''. On next row work dc as shown in 5th row in diagram, i.e. as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, * 2 dc in ch-space, 2 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-*, finish with 2 dc in each of the last 2 ch-spaces and 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc = 56-56-64-64-64-72 dc.
Continue with 1 dc in every dc – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'', inc 1 dc in each side by working 2 dc in next to last dc in each side.
Repeat inc 9-12-11-13-16-15 more times:
SIZE S: Every 4th row,
SIZE M + L: Every 3rd row,
SIZE XL: Alternately every other and 3rd row,
SIZE XXL + XXXL: Every other row
= 76-82-88-92-98-104 dc.
When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm / 19¼''-19''-18½''-18''-17¾''-17¼'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), dec for sleeve cap on every row in each side as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 5-6-8-9-10-11 times and 3 dc 1 time.
Piece now measures approx. 55 cm / 21½'' for all sizes, cut the yarn.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF SLEEVE:
Work in the sc row at the bottom of sleeve as follows - beg from WS:
ROW 1: 1 sc in first sc, * ch 5, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row - NOTE: For the no of sts to add up skip only 1 sc the last time in sizes S and M. In sizes L and XL skip 3 sc the last time.
Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work as follows in every ch-space: 2 sc + 1 picot (= ch 3, 1 sc in first ch) + 2 sc. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam and sew sleeves in body.
Work up along right band, around the neck and down along left band as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / ½'', 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Sew buttons on left band – top button should be approx. 1 cm / ½'' from the top, then evenly spaced downwards. Button in ch-spaces on right band.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch 1
= 1 sc
= 1 dc


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 147-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

Audrey 02.05.2019 - 16:14:

Bonjour, si je comprends bien, après le 1er rang de ms l'ouvrage devrait mesurer 86CM (2x43) pour une taille S, est-ce exact? Mon échantillon mesure bien 10X10 pour le nmbre de B et de rang indiqué pourtant après mon rang de ms il est bcp plus long, il mesure 170cm au lieu des 134 prévus pour la plus grande taille, comment cela se fait-il? il n'ai quand me pas possible que ma tension soit aussi relachée entre l'échantillon et l'ouvrage !?

DROPS Design 03.05.2019 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Audrey, avez-vous bien vos 317 ms? (on monte davantage de mailles en l'air que de mailles serrées pour éviter que le 1er rang ne soit trop serré), si l'échantillon est juste avec 317 ms vous devez avoir environ 138 cm (y compris les bordures des devants non comprises dans les 134 cm) - et 39 fois A.1 (=3.5 cm) = 136.5 + les mailles des bords. Bon crochet!

Asma 01.06.2016 - 11:55:

Hi ... i am not speaking english well but i will try to write to you what i want . i cant find the suitable words , i want the pattron for this chaket like a picture not writing if that is possible . iam so greatful for you . thanks .

DROPS Design 01.06.2016 kl. 12:12:

Dear Asma, this pattern is only available with a written pattern, for any further personnal assistance, you can contact your DROPS Store (choose your country in the list). Happy crocheting!

Anneke Nijhof 16.01.2016 - 19:26:

Kunnen jullie aangeven hoe groot/klein x, xl, xxl of xxxl is? Ik kan wel met een bepaalde maat beginnen, maar dan zul je zien dat die net niet goed is. Voorts vind ik het jammer dat de breipatronen meestal met een rondbreinaald moet worden gebreid. Ik kan daar absoluut niet mee over weg. Is het niet mogelijk ook de mogelijkheid te bieden om voor- achter- en/of mouwen gewoon met twee naalden te breien? Met vriendelijke groet, Anneke

DROPS Design 19.01.2016 kl. 15:12:

Hoi Anneke. Kijk onderaan het patroon, hier vind je alle afmetingen in cm. Kijk hier voor meer informatie over het aanpassen van een breipatroon van rondbreinaalden naar rechte naalden

Mariette De Brouwer 08.01.2016 - 11:58:

Ben begonnen te haken in mijn maat (xl) maar na drie toeren leek het me wel erg wijd. Zou moeten zijn 110 cm maar is 140!! Het ptoeflapje klopte wel, en ik gebruik het garen safran. Ik heb de steken ook goed nageteld. Wat doe ik fout?

DROPS Design 13.01.2016 kl. 15:54:

Hoi Mariette. Met 261 v op de toer zou je werk ca. 113 cm met de juiste stekenverhouding, en 1 herhaling van A.1B moet ongeveer 3.5 cm breed zijn. Je hebt 30 herhalingen van A.1B = 105 cm - en met de randen erbij (en A en C) kom je ook op ongeveer 110-112 cm. Met de rand erbij aan het eind, zou ik zeggen dat 110 wel klopt en met 140 haak je veel te los = de stekenverhouding klopt niet meer.

Karin 02.02.2015 - 19:49:

Ik ben boos.Jullie hebben een grote fout gemakt in de patroonbeschrijving.Ik kwam erachter toen ik het achterpand al af had.Jullie zeggen dat het inzijn geheel 51 cm moet zijn.Ik vond dit al raar want het handelt zich om een bovenstuk wat op borsthoogte einigt/begint. Zie ik in de tekening dat dit 21 cm moet zijn!!! Wat nu???Al het werk voor niets!!!!Ik ben zeer kwaad. Misschien kunnen jullie op zijn minst mij vertellen wat het moet zijn. Gegroet

DROPS Design 03.02.2015 kl. 13:37:

Beste Karin. Wij hebben het patroon nagekeken en wij kunnen geen fout vinden. In het patroon staat op welke hoogte u moet opdelen voor de armsgaten (ongeveer 32-32-32-36-36-36 cm; daarna nog 1 toer haken zoals beschreven) en vervolgens de totale hoogte wanneer u klaar bent (52-53-54-59-60-61 cm). Daarna haakt u de ruche langs de onderkant (3 cm). Dat komt overeen met de afmetingen aangegeven op de maattekening.

Wilna 28.07.2014 - 16:10:

Zie nu dat ik mijn vraag bij de opmerkingen heb gezet. Dus hierbij alsnog mijn vraag. Ik ben heel enthousiast aan dit vestje begonnen, maar ik snap begin en einde v.d. toer niet. In A.1 moet je in de 3e toer i.p.v. 3 st. er 4 haken door in het 3e st. 2 st. te haken. Dus zowel in de 3e als 4e toer 2 st. in het 3e st. van de vorige toer = 4 st. Moet je dan voor de volgende 2 toeren terug naar 3 st.? Dan krijg je toch een ongelijk begin en einde? Zouden jullie me dat willen uitleggen? Bedankt!

DROPS Design 29.07.2014 kl. 09:40:

Het patroon verspringt na steeds twee toeren, vandaar deze extra steken. U kunt het patroon zo haken als het er staat en dan komt het werk uit.

Wilna 27.07.2014 - 13:53:

Ben heel enthousiast begonnen, maar ik snap de overgang niet van begin en einde. In A.1 moet je in 3e toer i.p.v. 3 st. er 4 haken door in het 3e st. 2 st. te haken? Dus zowel in 3e als 4e toer 2 st. in het 3e st. van de vorige toer = 4 st. Moet je dan voor de volgende 2 toeren terug naar 3 st.? Dan krijg je toch een ongelijk begin en einde of een gaatje? Zouden jullie me dat willen uitleggen? Bedankt!

Floriane 24.02.2014 - 19:38:

Bonjour, J'ai commencé à faire le point fantaisie A1 (donc 25 rapports) mais il me semble un peu large. Est-ce normal ? On part d'une base de 205 m mais actuellement, j'en ai beaucoup plus? Merci pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 25.02.2014 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Floriane, pensez à bien vérifier votre échantillon/tension, vous devez avoir 23 B x 12 rangs = 10 x 10 cm et 1 rapport de A.1b = environ 3.5 cm de large et 4 rangs de A.1 = 4 cm. Bon crochet !

Ditta 22.11.2013 - 21:52:

Bedankt voor uw reactie. Het spijt me dat ik het nog niet helemaal begrijp. Dat heb ik gelezen in het patroon, maar ik vraag me af of je in de ene toer 2 stokjes moet minderen en dan in de volgende 1 stokje. Anders is het toch in elke toer drie stokjes minderen? Is het dan niet zo dat bij maat M elke tweede toer geminderd moet worden?

DROPS Design 26.11.2013 kl. 16:34:

Hoi Ditta. Je mindert aan de zijkant voor het armsgat in elke toer. Dus eerst minder je 0 stk (dus eigenlijk niet minderen), dan 2 keer 1 stk - dus eerst 1 stk in de ene toer, en dan 1 stk in de volgende toer. Zie ook tip voor het minderen.

Ditta 19.11.2013 - 23:23:

Hoe doe je dat minderen dan bij de grote maten? Ben benieuwd hoe het dan zit.

DROPS Design 20.11.2013 kl. 10:55:

Hoi Ditta. De minderingen voor de overige (en grotere maten) staan in het patroon: Minder TEGELIJKERTIJD aan de zijkant voor armsgat elke toer: 0-0-1-2-3-5 keer 2 stk en 1-2-2-3-5-6 keer 1 stk – ZIE TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN = 49-51-53-55-57-59 stk over.

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