DROPS / 144 / 5

Dazzle by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS skirt with zigzag pattern in ”Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no z-629
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Waist: 68-76-82-88-102-116 cm /
26 3/4"-30"-32 1/4"-34½"-40"-45 3/4"
Hem: 100-110-120-130-150-170 cm /
39½"-43½"-47 1/4"-51½"-59"-66 3/4"
Length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 607, light brown eco:
150-150-150-150-200-200 g
Color no 601, dark brown eco:
100-100-100-100-100-100 g
Color no 3770, dark pink:
50-50-100-100-100-100 g
50 g of the following colors are needed for all sizes:
100 off white, 2925 rust
3650 maroon, 6790 dark blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 sc or 1 sc and 1 ch alternately 11 times = width 10 cm / 4''. 1 repetition zigzag pattern measures 7 cm / 2¾'' in width at the most narrow and 10 cm / 4'' at the widest. When working zigzag pattern, approx. 8.5 rows = 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON NO 525: 3-3-3-4-4-4 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO 1:
Turn every sc row with ch 1, this ch does not replace first sc.

CROCHET INFO 2:
Replace 1st dc at beg of every round with zigzag pattern with 3 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

STRIPES:
See diagram A.1. 1 row in diagram = 1 row with dc and zigzag pattern.
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SKIRT:
The skirt is worked top down.
Work back and forth from the side until after vent is done, then work in the round.
Ch 175-192-210-227-262-297 with dark brown eco.
Work first row as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and 1 sc in each of the next 5-1-5-1-1-1 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 150-164-180-194-224-254 sc, turn piece – READ CROCHET INFO 1. Work 2 rows back and forth with 1 sc in every sc.
Switch to light brown eco.
Work next row as follows: ch 2, skip first sc, 1 sc in next sc, * ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 75-82-90-97-112-127 sc with 1 ch before every sc.
Work next row as follows: ch 2, skip first sc from previous row and work 1 sc in first ch, * ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row.
Repeat this last row until piece measures 5-6-6-7-7-8 cm / 2"-2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3".
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Now work 1 row with 1 sc in every sc and 1 sc in every ch = 150-164-180-194-224-254 sc.
On next row inc evenly as follows: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* until 0-2-0-2-2-2 sc remain, work 2 sc in each of these sc = 200-220-240-260-300-340 sc.
Then work STRIPES according to A.1 – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME work zigzag pattern back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc) in first sc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 sc, * skip 2 sc, 1 dc in each of the next 9 sc, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 9 sc *, repeat from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in each of the last 9 sc =
180-198-216-234-270-306 dc.
ROW 2: ch 3 (= 1 dc) + 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, * skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, 3 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc *, repeat from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, skip 4 dc, finish with 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc and 2 dc in each of the last 3 dc = 200-220-240-260-300-340 dc.
ROW 3: ch 3 (= 1 dc) + 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, * skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc *, repeat from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, skip 4 dc, finish with 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc and 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc = 200-220-240-260-300-340 dc.
Repeat 3rd row 1 more time, turn piece.
Piece now measures approx. 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm / 4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5"-5"-5½".
Vent ends here, work next row as follows: ch 3 + 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, * skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc *, repeat from *-* 8-9-10-11-13-15 more times, skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc on round, ch 3, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 200-220-240-260-300-340 dc.
Work next round as follows - READ CROCHET INFO 2: * 1 dc in each of the first 8 dc, skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, 2 dc in ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Continue in the round with zigzag pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on next round inc 2 dc in every repetition by working 3 dc + ch 3 + 3 dc in every ch-space instead of 2 dc + ch 3 + 2 dc (i.e. inc from 10 to 11 dc along every angle the entire round) = 220-242-264-286-330-374 dc.
Repeat inc the same way every 4th round 5 more times = 320-352-384-416-480-544 dc (after last inc there are 16 dc along every angle).
Then work until skirt measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' at the longest (continue with light brown eco until finished measurements if you want a longer skirt when A.1 is done).
Fasten off.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Along the opening in the side facing towards front piece work a band with buttonhole loops as follows:
Work 3 rows with sc and dark brown eco back and forth.
Then work 3-3-3-4-4-4 buttonhole loops evenly on next row – 1 buttonhole loop = ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8''.
Bottom loop should be approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from bottom edge of vent and upper loop approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from the top.
Work back as follows: 1 sc in every sc and 3 sc in every ch-space, fasten off.

BUTTON PLEAT:
Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with sc and dark brown eco back and forth, cut the thread.
Sew the buttons on to 1st row of button pleat so that they match the buttonhole loops.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= maroon
= dark pink
= light brown eco
= dark blue
= rust
= dark brown eco
= off white

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 144-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Josie 29.11.2019 - 16:20:

Rebonjour Est ce qu'après je fais 4/3/4 et 5/3/5 etc...? Et comment crocheter en rond ? Merci

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Josie, je ne comprends pas ce que vous entendez par 4/3/4 ni 5/3/5. Vous devez augmenter en crochetant dans la pointe de chaque zigzag 3 brides, 3 ml, 3 brides, là où auparavant vous crochetez 2 brides, 3 ml, 2 brides, et toujours 1 bride dans chaque bride, et vous sautez toujours 4 brides comme avant. Commencez les tours par 3 ml (= 1ère bride), et terminez par 1 mc dans la 3ème ml du début du tour (cf vidéo. Bon crochet!

Josie 29.11.2019 - 15:01:

Bonjour Je suis en train de réaliser la jupe DROPS 144.5, comment faire pour crocheter en rond,et que veux dire augmenter dans chaque rapport ? Merci d'avance et bon week-end.

DROPS Design 29.11.2019 kl. 15:50:

Bonjour Josie, 1 rapport correspond à un motif à répéter, pour augmenter, vous crochetez 3 brides + 3 ml + 3 brides dans chaque arceau (au lieu de crocheter 2 brides, 3 ml, 2 brides comme avant). Bon crochet!

Dorothy Ann Foggie 17.08.2018 - 00:08:

I am confused about the start of the vent for this pattern. I don't see any instructions prior to the start.

DROPS Design 17.08.2018 kl. 11:03:

Dear Mrs Foggie, the skirt is first worked in rows until piece measures approx. 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm / 4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5"-5"-5½". Then you work in the round as explained on next row starting with "Vent ends here". Happy crocheting!

Linn 02.07.2017 - 11:44:

Hei, kan dere hjelpe med dette: "Neste omg hekles slik- LES HEKLEINFO-2: * 1 st i hver av de første 8 st, hopp over 4 st, 1 st i hver av de 8 neste st, 2 st om lm-buen, 3 lm, 2 st om samme lm-bue *, gjenta fra *-* omg rundt." Skal man ikke hekle 2 staver i hver av de 2 første stavene, slik at man får 10 staver på begynnelsen av omgangen? Det vil være nødvendig for så å kunne hoppe over 4 staver?

DROPS Design 05.07.2017 kl. 14:13:

Hei Linn. Når jeg hekler dette skjørtet får jeg, etter LES HEKLEINFO-2, at det kun skal hekles stav i stav/8 staver i begynnelsen av omgangen (nå hekles det rundt og ikke frem og tilbake)for å kunne hoppe over 4 staver, slik at sikk-sakk mønstret blir riktig. Om jeg skal hekle 10 staver før jeg hopper over 4 staver vil sikk-sakk mønstret forskyve seg.

Laura 22.09.2016 - 13:24:

HOLA, ME GUSTARÍA SABER A QUE VUELTA HAY QUE VOLVER CUANDO EL PATRÓN TE DICE QUE HAGAS LOS AUMENTOS A CADA 4 VUELTAS Y SIGAS CON EL PATRÓN ZIG ZAG, A QUE HILERA HAY QUE VOLVER? GRACIAS.

DROPS Design 23.09.2016 kl. 19:30:

Hola Laura. Los aumentos se trabajan de la siguiente manera: en la primera vta has hecho los aum, trabajar las sig tres vtas sin aum y en la 4ª vta trabajas otra vez los aum de la misma manera. El patrón del zigzag lo trabajas según las explicaciones del patrón. Para controlar mejor, te recomiendo marcar con los MP (marcapuntos) la vta con los aum.

Selynn 01.12.2014 - 16:10:

This pattern is not easy to start off just tells you work back and forth until after vent is done what ever that means

DROPS Design 01.12.2014 kl. 17:01:

Dear Selynn, the skirt is worked from top down beg at the waist, you work in rows (back and forth) until the opening (button edge) is done, then continue in the round to the end. Happy crocheting!

Ann Helen Åstrøm Anderson 12.05.2014 - 02:45:

Skal livvidden i str xxxl være bare 52 cm? Veldig smalt!

DROPS Design 12.05.2014 kl. 08:34:

Du ganger bredden med 2 for at få vidden. God fornöjelse!

Ann Helen Åstrøm Anderson 12.05.2014 - 02:45:

Skal livvidden i str xxxl være bare 52 cm? Veldig smalt!

DROPS Design 12.05.2014 kl. 18:13:

Hej, som du ser på målskissen står det att xxxl måler 58 cm överst og det er målt fra side till side, så den er så 116 cm runt om.

Marina 26.03.2014 - 07:33:

Welke toeren moet ik herhalen. Is dat vanaf toer 1 of vanaf toer 3. Graag uw antwoord. groet. marina van rijn

DROPS Design 26.03.2014 kl. 12:26:

Hoi Marina. Als je 200-220-240-260-300-340 stk op de toer hebt staat er: "Haak de volgende toer als volgt - LEES INFORMATIE VOOR HET HAKEN 2: * 1 stk in elke van de eerste 8 stk, sla 4 stk over,..... enzovoort". Dit is de toer dat je blijft herhalen + de meerderingen zoals beschreven.

Veglife 11.02.2013 - 22:42:

Innanzi tutto complimenti! questa gonna è bellissima! sto tentando di realizzarla ma ho un dubbio: quando dice "Ripetere gli aumenti nello stesso modo ogni quarto giro altre 5 volte(dopo l’ultimo aumento ci sono 16 m.a. lungo ogni angolo)" si intende 8 m.a. sul lato + 8 nell'occhiello? oppure 13 sul lato + 3 ? grazie per le eventuali risposte!!!

DROPS Design 21.02.2013 kl. 01:05:

La punta si forma con 2m.a+2cat+2m.a. Poi: aumentare 2 m.a. in ogni ripetizione lavorando 3 m.a.+ 3 cat+ 3 m.a. in ogni occh. di cat invece di 2 m.a.+3 cat+2 m.a. Questo vuol dire che si aumenta (cioè aumentare da 10 a 11 m.a. lungo ogni angolo) = 220-242-264-286-330-374 m.a. Ripetere gli aumenti così ogni 4 giri altre 5 volte (dopo l’ultimo aumento ci sono 16 m.a. lungo ogni angolo). CI SARANNO 16 m.a + ochiello di cat + 16 m.a, quindi 16 m.a ad ogni lato della punta.

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