Miss Piggy by DROPS Design

Crochet children slippers with pig motif in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern no W-031-bn
Yarn group C
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US: child- child - child - child - woman
6½/8 -9/10½ -11/13 -13½ -5/6½
EU: 23/25 -26/28 -29/31 -32/34 -35/37
To fit foot length: 15-17-18-20-22 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7''-8''-8¾''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 20, light pink
50 g color no 06, shocking pink
Some left-over yarn in black.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop, work ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end at the back.

ROUNDS WITH SC:
Beg every sc round with ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc by working 2 sc in next sc.

SC-ROW:
Beg every sc-row with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc), 1 sc in every sc the entire row, turn.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: * Insert hook in next sc, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= first sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc and first sc on the round, move the marker upwards when working.
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PIG SLIPPERS:
Worked first in the round and then back and forth. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the edge of toe with light pink on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
ROUND 1: Work 7-7-7-8-8 sc in the magic circle, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Then work ROUNDS WITH SC - read explanation above.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc - READ INCREASE TIP = 14-14-14-16-16 sc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-6-8-8-8 sts evenly on round = 18-20-22-24-24 sc.
ROUND 4: Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly on round = 26-28-30-32-32 sc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts evenly on round = 30-32-34-36-36 sc.
Then work 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 7½-8½-9-10-11 cm / 2 7/8"-3 1/4"-3½"-4"-4 3/8". When the last sc on round has been worked, do not work sl st in 1st sc but continue with 1 sc in each of the next 10-10-11-12-12 sc (= 1st row from RS), turn piece and work 1 sc in each of the next 20-20-22-24-24 sc from WS (= 10-12-12-12-12 sc remain mid front of slipper, now beg of round from earlier is under the sole). Then work SC-ROW - read explanation above - back and forth with 20-20-22-24-24 sc on every row. When piece measures approx. 14½-16½-17½-19½-21½ cm / 5 3/4"-6½"-6 7/8"-7 3/4"-8½" work next row from RS as follows:
ROW 1: Work 6-6-7-8-8 sc, dec 2 sc over the next 4 sc - READ DECREASE TIP = 8-8-9-10-10 sc, turn (10-10-11-12-12 sc remain on other side of row).
ROW 2: Dec 2 sc over the first 4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 6-6-7-8-8 sc, turn.
ROW 3: Work 2-2-3-4-4 sc, dec 2 sc over the last 4 sc = 4-4-5-6-6 sc.
ROW 4: Dec 1-1-1-2-2 sc over the first 2-2-2-4-4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 3-3-4-4-4 sc, cut and fasten the thread.
Work over the remaining 10-10-11-12-12 sc on the other side as follows:
ROW 1: Dec 2 sc over the first 4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 8-8-9-10-10 sc, turn.
ROW 2: Work 4-4-5-6-6 sc, dec 2 sc over the last 4 sc = 6-6-7-8-8 sc, turn.
ROW 3: Dec 2 sc over the first 4 sc, 1 sc in every sc the entire row = 4-4-5-6-6 sc.
ROW 4: Dec 1-1-1-2-2 sc over the last 2-2-2-4-4 sc = 3-3-4-4-4 sc, cut and fasten the thread.
Sew seam mid back of slipper.
Start mid back on slipper, crochet from RS one round with sc around the entire opening. Over the rows in the sides work as follows: Work 1 sc in every row along the sides, and 1 sc in every sc at the front of slipper - in 1st corner at the front work as follows: * Insert hook in the last sc from rows, get the thread, pull hook in the 1st sc from front part of slipper, get the thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook *. Repeat from *-* in 2nd corner at the front but reversed. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Then work 1 round with sc, cut and fasten the thread.

EAR:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE with shocking pink on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the magic circle - NOTE: Do not work sl st in 1st sc, READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE!
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, inc 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sc.
ROUND 4-5: Work 1 sc in every sc, cut and fasten the thread. Work another ear the same way.

SNOUTE:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE with shocking pink on hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in the magic circle.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3-5: Work 1 sc in every sc, cut and fasten the thread.

TAIL:
Ch 9 with shocking pink, then work 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, * ch 1, 1 sl st in next ch *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in the last ch, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the ears flat and sew them to each side of slipper. Embroider eyes with black, sew snout and tail on to the slipper.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-46) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

Charbonnier 03.11.2015 - 17:35:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas comment faire les augmentations pour ce modèle. Je n'ai jamais le nombre de mailles indiquées à partir du tour 3. En attente de votre reponse je vous remercie. Cordialement Céline Charbonnier

DROPS Design 04.11.2015 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Mme Charbonnier, pour augmenter 1 ms, crochetez 2 ms dans la même maille - vous trouverez quelques explications pour savoir comment répartir des augmentations. Bon crochet!

Tanja 01.11.2015 - 20:35:

Was bedeuten die 5fach zahlen , wie 7-7-7-8-8, bei der Miss Piggy Socke? wie ist das zu beurteilen? Liebe Grüsse Tanja

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 kl. 13:08:

Die Zahlen stehen für die unterschiedlichen Größen, Sie müssen immer die Zahl verwenden, die zu der Größe gehört, die Sie stricken. Die Größen finden Sie oben im Kopf, ebenfalls mit Strichen getrennt, das ist die gleiche Reihenfolge wie die Zahlen in der Anleitung.

Christine 09.02.2013 - 22:28:

What does "Work 7-7-7-8-8" mean in round 1 of Pig Slippers?

DROPS Design 11.02.2013 kl. 10:20:

Dear Christine, the number of sts is indicated in the same order as sizes, so for the first 3 size, you will work 7 sc in the round, for the 2 larger sizes, you will work 8 sc in the round. Happy crocheting !

Blanca Hinojosa 27.01.2013 - 17:59:

HILERA 1: Hacer 6-6-7-8-8 p.b., dism 2 p.b. sobre los 4 p.b. sig – LEER TIP PARA DISMINUCIÓN = 8-8-9-10-10 p.b., virar (10-10-11-12-12 p.b. restantes en el otro lado de la hilera). Pudiera explicarme un poco mas sobre este procedimiento? de las HILERAS De antemano agradezco su ayuda. Saludos

Dinopharm 15.11.2012 - 03:49:

I think it should be single crochet (sc), not double crochet (dc)

DROPS Design 15.11.2012 kl. 09:10:

Dear Dinopharm, UK/US crochet terminology is different : (uk) dc = (us) sc. If you are more used to read us terminology, please change language to us-english under the picture. Happy crocheting!

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