DROPS / 143 / 40

Magic by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS moebius neck warmer and hat with squares in ”Delight”.

DROPS design: Pattern no de-092
Yarn group A
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NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Circumference: approx. 150 cm / 59''
Length: approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4''

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
300 g color no 10, olive/rust/plum

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 20 dc = 10 cm / 4'' in width (1 square measures approx. 6 x 6 cm / 2 3/8'' x 2 3/8").
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HAT:
Size: S/M - L/XL
To fit head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21 1/4"/22" - 22 3/4"/23½"
Circumference: 48-54 cm / 19"-21 1/4"
Height: 24-25 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g color no 10, olive/rust/plum for both sizes

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 20 dc = 10 cm / 4'' in width (1 square measures approx. 6 x 6 cm / 2 3/8'' x 2 3/8'').

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
NECK WARMER:

ROUNDS WITH DC:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch (= 1st dc), finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new thread. Continue on to next round with the new thread.
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SQUARE:
Ch 6 with Delight on hook size 3.5 mmE/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Read ROUNDS WITH DC.
ROUND 1: * Work 3 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 dc and 4 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball (= new color each round) - READ COLOR CHANGE.
ROUND 2: In every ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc, 1 ch = 24 dc and 8 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball.
ROUND 3: * In next ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc (= corner), ch 1, in next ch-space work 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc and 12 ch-spaces. Cut and fasten the thread.
Work a total of 25 squares. Work squares tog into 1 strip as follows: Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares, work 1 ch and 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares *, repeat from *-*, cut and fasten the thread. Work the ends of the strip tog the same way to form a ring – NOTE: twist the strip 1 time to form a twisted ring, before working the ends tog.

NECK WARMER:
Worked from middle of piece = the twisted ring and out towards the outer edges - i.e. work upwards and downwards at the same time. NOTE! Beg every round with 3 ch (= 1st dc).
Work 1st round along the strip as follows: In each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 3 dc and ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 1st dc), sl st until next ch-space. Continue to work as follows: In every ch-space work 3 dc, ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 1st dc), sl st until next ch-space. Continue like this until neck warmer measures approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4'' vertically (the entire piece, not just from the middle and outwards). Cut and fasten the thread.

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HAT:

ROUNDS WITH DC:
Beg every round with dc with 3 ch (= 1st dc), finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP 1:
Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

ROUNDS WITH SC:
Beg every round with sc with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc) - NOTE! Work sc in back loop of every sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.

DECREASE TIP 2:
Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: * Insert hook in back loop of next sc, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new thread. Continue on to next round with the new thread.
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SQUARE:
Ch 6 with Delight on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Read ROUNDS WITH DC.
ROUND 1: * Work 3 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 dc and 4 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball (= new color each round) - READ COLOR CHANGE.
ROUND 2: In every ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc, 1 ch = 24 dc and 8 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball.
ROUND 3: * In next ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc (= corner), ch 1, in next ch-space work 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc and 12 ch-spaces. Cut and fasten the thread.
Work a total of 8-9 squares. Work squares tog into 1 strip as follows: Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares, work 1 ch and 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares *, repeat from *-*, cut and fasten the thread. Work the ends of the strip tog the same way to form a ring.

HAT:
Worked in the round. Work along one side of strip as follows: In each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 3 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch (= 1st dc) from beg of round = 96-108 dc. Then work ROUNDS WITH DC - read explanation above - as follows: 3 ch (= 1st dc), skip 1st dc from previous round, 1 dc in every dc, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Continue until hat measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from bottom edge. Then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * 1 dc in each of the next 6-7 dc, dec 1 dc - READ DECREASE TIP 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84-96 dc (= 12 sts dec).
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in each of the next 5-6 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72-84 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the next 4-5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60-72 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 3-4 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48-60 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 2-3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36-48 dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the next 1-2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24-36 dc.
SIZE S/M: Work all dc on round tog 2 by 2 = 12 dc, cut the thread and sew the last dc tog with thread end.
SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 8: Work all dc on round tog 2 by 2 = 12 dc, cut the thread and sew the last dc tog with thread end.

EDGE:
Work an edge along bottom edge of hat (along the other side of strip with squares) as follows: Work ch 1, in each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 4 sc = 128-144 sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round. Then work ROUNDS WITH SC - read explanation above. When edge measures approx. 1 cm / ½", dec 16-20 sc evenly on round - READ DECREASE TIP 2 = 112-124 sc. Continue until edge measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', cut and fasten the thread. The hat measures approx. 24-25 cm / 9½"-9 3/4'' vertically.


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Wrist warmers – see design: 143-41
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 143-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (158)

Sunny 18.11.2019 - 20:26:

Hello! Likelymore.com sells this and other DropsDesign patterns as their products.

Carolin 26.09.2019 - 12:54:

Hallo, diese Website (couleurdream.com) benutzt eines Ihrer Bilder zu u.a. dieser Mütze. Legal ist das wohl nicht!

Margje 15.12.2018 - 22:51:

Hallo, allereerst vind ik het echt een super leuk design. Graag wil ik aan het patroon beginnen maar ik snap het een en ander niet helemaal. Met stk. bedoelen jullie daar nou een stokje mee of een steek? En hoe moet ik het patroon lezen als ik hem met vasten wil halen? Er staat namelijk toer met stk of toer met V.in het patroon wordt alleen zover ik kan lezen verwezen naar die met de stk. Wellicht dat ik te moeilijk denk, maar wil graag goed starten. Alvast bedankt voor de reactie, groet Margje

María José 25.10.2018 - 12:22:

Pues tal y como aparece en la foto del gorro, yo creo que las aplicaciones de la tira están unidas colocando los cuadrados derecho contra derecho. Pero queda bien de las dos maneras

Bridie 29.09.2018 - 12:09:

Thank you for posting this beautiful design. I am currently making a hat I have my eight granny squares ready to join. I am struggling to understand this part of the pattern... 'Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares'. Do you place the squares on top of each other with the wrong sides together or are they placed on top of each other as you look at them on the table? Thanks in advance. x

DROPS Design 30.09.2018 kl. 09:00:

Dear Bridie, yes, you put the squares o top of each other, the wrong sides facing each other. Alternately, you can attach the squares to each other in the very last round with a slip stitch at the corners and at the chain loops. Happy Crochet!

Paola 27.12.2017 - 01:16:

La sciarpa che si vede in un'altra foto non è ad anello, ma diritta. Va lavorare sui due lati della striscia a quadri in giro di andata e ritorno oppure taglia do il filo alla fine di ogni giro?Grazie

DROPS Design 30.12.2017 kl. 21:52:

Buonasera Paola. Se capiamo correttamente la domanda, se vuole lavorare la sciarpa diritta, può lavorare sui due lati della striscia in righe di andata e ritorno. Buon lavoro!

Daniela 30.11.2017 - 13:02:

Grazie mille|

Daniela 30.11.2017 - 11:58:

Buongiorno, sto per iniziare questo lavoro, ma lo scaldacollo devo cucirlo per forza ad 8 o posso farlo rotondo normale e poi lo attorciglio io quando lo indosso? Grazie

DROPS Design 30.11.2017 kl. 12:50:

Buongiorno Daniela. Può formare un tondo normale, se preferisce. Cambia solo la seconda parte del lavoro. Senza chiudere ad “otto”, lavorerà prima il bordo lungo uno dei lati dei quadrati, poi il bordo lungo l’altro lato dei quadrati. Buon lavoro!

Elisangela Lima 01.10.2017 - 00:39:

Bom dia! Gostaria de encomendar uma touca desse modelo para entrega no Brasil, ha possibilidade?

DROPS Design 12.10.2017 kl. 13:40:

Não fazemos encomendas. Pode, no entanto, pedir a uma tricoteira que faça o modelo. Bom tricô

Vivian 21.08.2016 - 20:07:

Ik ben bezich met de halswarmer. Ik ben nu bezich met de tweede toer ( heb de rij met vierkantjes al gedaan). Moet ik dan het werk draaien en de eerste halve vaste vervangen voor drie lossen.

DROPS Design 24.08.2016 kl. 12:36:

Hoi Vivian. Ja, je moet de draai maken en elke toer beginnen met 3 l (= stk)

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