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Crochet DROPS moebius neck warmer and hat with squares in ”Delight”.
DROPS 143-40 |
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NECK WARMER: ROUNDS WITH DC: Beg every round with dc with 3 ch (= 1st dc), finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. COLOR CHANGE: To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new thread. Continue on to next round with the new thread. -------------------------------------------------------- SQUARE: Ch 6 with Delight on hook size 3.5 mmE/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Read ROUNDS WITH DC. ROUND 1: * Work 3 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 dc and 4 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball (= new color each round) - READ COLOR CHANGE. ROUND 2: In every ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc, 1 ch = 24 dc and 8 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball. ROUND 3: * In next ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc (= corner), ch 1, in next ch-space work 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc and 12 ch-spaces. Cut and fasten the thread. Work a total of 25 squares. Work squares tog into 1 strip as follows: Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares, work 1 ch and 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares *, repeat from *-*, cut and fasten the thread. Work the ends of the strip tog the same way to form a ring – NOTE: twist the strip 1 time to form a twisted ring, before working the ends tog. NECK WARMER: Worked from middle of piece = the twisted ring and out towards the outer edges - i.e. work upwards and downwards at the same time. NOTE! Beg every round with 3 ch (= 1st dc). Work 1st round along the strip as follows: In each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 3 dc and ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 1st dc), sl st until next ch-space. Continue to work as follows: In every ch-space work 3 dc, ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 1st dc), sl st until next ch-space. Continue like this until neck warmer measures approx. 36 cm / 14¼" vertically (the entire piece, not just from the middle and outwards). Cut and fasten the thread. -------------------------------------------------------- HAT: ROUNDS WITH DC: Beg every round with dc with 3 ch (= 1st dc), finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. DECREASE TIP 1: Dec 1 dc by working the next 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. ROUNDS WITH SC: Beg every round with sc with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc) - NOTE! Work sc in back loop of every sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc. DECREASE TIP 2: Dec 1 sc by working 2 sc tog as follows: * Insert hook in back loop of next sc, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. COLOR CHANGE: To get a nice color change work last sl st on round with the new thread. Continue on to next round with the new thread. -------------------------------------------------------- SQUARE: Ch 6 with Delight on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Read ROUNDS WITH DC. ROUND 1: * Work 3 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times = 12 dc and 4 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball (= new color each round) - READ COLOR CHANGE. ROUND 2: In every ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc, 1 ch = 24 dc and 8 ch-spaces. Sl sts until next ch-space, cut the thread and switch to another color of the same ball. ROUND 3: * In next ch-space work as follows: 3 dc, 3 ch and 3 dc (= corner), ch 1, in next ch-space work 3 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc and 12 ch-spaces. Cut and fasten the thread. Work a total of 8-9 squares. Work squares tog into 1 strip as follows: Place 2 and 2 squares on top of each other, insert hook through ch-space in the corner on both squares, work 1 ch and 1 sc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space on both squares *, repeat from *-*, cut and fasten the thread. Work the ends of the strip tog the same way to form a ring. HAT: Worked in the round. Work along one side of strip as follows: In each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 3 dc, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch (= 1st dc) from beg of round = 96-108 dc. Then work ROUNDS WITH DC - read explanation above - as follows: 3 ch (= 1st dc), skip 1st dc from previous round, 1 dc in every dc, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Continue until hat measures approx. 16 cm / 6¼" from bottom edge. Then dec as follows: ROUND 1: * 1 dc in each of the next 6-7 dc, dec 1 dc - READ DECREASE TIP 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84-96 dc (= 12 sts dec). ROUND 2: * 1 dc in each of the next 5-6 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72-84 dc. ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the next 4-5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60-72 dc. ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 3-4 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48-60 dc. ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 2-3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36-48 dc. ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the next 1-2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24-36 dc. SIZE S/M: Work all dc on round tog 2 by 2 = 12 dc, cut the thread and sew the last dc tog with thread end. SIZE L/XL: ROUND 7: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc. ROUND 8: Work all dc on round tog 2 by 2 = 12 dc, cut the thread and sew the last dc tog with thread end. EDGE: Work an edge along bottom edge of hat (along the other side of strip with squares) as follows: Work ch 1, in each of the 4 ch-spaces on every square work 4 sc = 128-144 sc, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc from beg of round. Then work ROUNDS WITH SC - read explanation above. When edge measures approx. 1 cm / ½", dec 16-20 sc evenly on round - READ DECREASE TIP 2 = 112-124 sc. Continue until edge measures approx. 2 cm / ¾", cut and fasten the thread. The hat measures approx. 24-25 cm / 9½"-9¾" vertically. ---------------------------------------------------------- Wrist warmers – see design: 143-41 ---------------------------------------------------------- |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (164)
Anja wrote:
Was für eine tolle bunte Mütze. Einfach zu häkeln und wunderschöner Effekt!
13.06.2013 - 11:03Ilona wrote:
TACK! :))
06.06.2013 - 19:53Ilona wrote:
Väntar på hjälp, se tidigare fråga från mig!! Vill så gärna fortsätta mitt arbete.
06.06.2013 - 06:39Ilona wrote:
Håller på med denna fina mössa nu men undrar över en sak i mönstret. Är det från den påvirkade kanten under rutorna som det ska räknas 16 cm, eller är det från nedre kanten på rutorna?
04.06.2013 - 09:06Sandra answered:
Det står ju tydligt "från den nedersta kanten" ; därefter virkas den extra randen.
06.06.2013 - 09:32R.van De Velde wrote:
Ik kan deze niet afdrukken.
15.04.2013 - 13:22DROPS Design answered:
Je moet drukken op AFDRUKKEN: PATROON en volg de instructies verder. We hebben hier geen fouten kunnen ontdekken. Probeer het nog een keer.
15.04.2013 - 19:35Haydee wrote:
I finished all my squares and they are put together but on the part where it says NOTE: twist the strip 1 time to form a twisted ring, before working the ends tog. I did that and I started the neck warmer rounds and I don't get to the beg 3dc (3rd ch from beg of round) Am I reading the pattern wrong? if I put the 2 edges together and flip the one on top once, is that twisting it 1 time? or do I have to flip it 2 times (one complete turn)? Did I make any sense?
22.02.2013 - 13:43DROPS Design answered:
Dear Haydee, when you start crocheting in dc around the squares, you replace 1st dc with 3ch at the beg of each round, and then crochet 3 dc in each of the 4 ch-loops on each squares, with ch 1 between each group of 3 dc. When you will have finished your first round, you will have worked on both sides of the squares and can join to the first dc (=3rd ch from beg of round). The video "Moebius in crochet" could maybe help you to visualize (see index). Happy crocheting !
22.02.2013 - 15:49Ulla Pedersen wrote:
The yarn is mostly too thin and some few places it's too thick, so the work gets very uneven :-(So so disappointed I could cry, because I fell in love with the colors and the "moebius concept" but now I feel like I've wasted time and money.
29.01.2013 - 12:16Ulla Pedersen wrote:
I am SO disappointed with this model and this yarn. Has been working with it for too much time, because the recipe says nothing about the color changes in the yarn is NOT at all long enough for an entire round. To get the colors somewhat equal you have to use 3 balls at the same time. And a lot af yarn goes to wast, because the color is too mixed. Also, I think the model looks very soft and cosy in the picture and IRL it is NOT at ALL!
29.01.2013 - 12:14Ulla Pedersen wrote:
Jeg er SÅ skuffet over denne model og dette garn. Har nu arbejdet med det i en rum tid, for der står intet i opskriften om at farveskiftene i garnet SLET ikke er lange nok til en hel omgang på arbejdet. Dvs for at få omgangene nogenlunde ensfarvede, skal man have gang i 3 nøgler på én gang. Desuden synes jeg at modellen ser vamset og blød ud på billedet og det er det bare slet IKKE. Garnet kradser og er MEGA tyndt, men nogen få steder er det tykt, så arbejdet bliver ret ujævnt :-(
29.01.2013 - 11:19Alejandra wrote:
Hola,soy una fanatica del tejido de crochet,me interesaria saber si me podrias enviar el patron de este genial conjunto.desde ya muchisimas gracias son geniales todos los diseños.
26.01.2013 - 18:04DROPS Design answered:
Querida Alejandra, para acceder a la traducción en español de este modelo, utiliza la "Búsqueda directa de patrones" en el margen izquierdo de la página de inicio, o bien elige el idioma en el menú desplegable debajo de la fotografía de la modelo.
27.01.2013 - 10:04