DROPS / 136 / 23

Blues by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jumper in ”Safran” and ”Cotton Viscose”. With squares and stripes. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Blues / DROPS 136-23 - Crochet DROPS jumper in ”Safran” and ”Cotton Viscose”. With squares and stripes. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Blues / DROPS 136-23 - Crochet DROPS jumper in ”Safran” and ”Cotton Viscose”. With squares and stripes. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no E-183
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-94-106-116-128-138 cm / 33"-37"-41 3/4"-45 3/4"-50 3/8"-54 1/4"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 05, light blue purple
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 22, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 1 square = approx. 6 x 6 cm / 2½'' x 2½'' and 22 sts in pattern = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.55 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.55 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Turn every dc row with ch 3 and turn every sc row with ch 1.

PATTERN:
Do not cut the yarn for each yarn change but let it follow upwards.
ROW 1 (Safran): 1 sc in every dc.
ROW 2 (Safran): 1 dc, ch 1, skip first sc, 1 dc in next sc, * ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row.
ROW 3 (Cotton Viscose): 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every ch.
ROW 4 (Safran): 1 dc in every sc.
ROW 5 (Safran): 1 dc in every dc.
ROW 6 (Cotton Viscose): 1 sc in every dc.
ROW 7 (Cotton Viscose): 1 dc in every sc.
ROWS 8, 9 and 10 (Safran): 1 dc in every dc.
Repeat rows 1 to 10.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec at end of row as follows: Work until no of sts to be dec remains, turn piece.
Dec at beg of row as follows: Work sl st over no of sts to be dec.
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JUMPER:
First work the squares at the bottom. These are worked tog in rows vertically, then work the squares tog in the side to form a circle. Then work front and back piece back and forth separately, up from squares. Finish by working the sleeves.

ROW 1:
SQUARE 1 - also see diagram M.1:
Ch 4 on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), work 11 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round, cut the yarn.
ROUND 2 (switch to Cotton Viscose): ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, 1 ch * 1 sc in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 3: ch 1, 1 sc in 2nd ch from previous round, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch from previous round *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces, cut the yarn.
ROUND 4 (switch back to Safran): ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 8, 1 sc in next ch-space (= corner) *, repeat from *-* the entire round but instead of last sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.
Square measures approx. 6 x 6 cm / 2½'' x 2½".

SQUARE 2:
Start with Cotton Viscose and work as SQUARE 1 from 1st to 3rd round but switch yarn type so that Cotton Viscose is used on 1st round and Safran on 2nd and 3rd round.
ROUND 4 – also see diagram M.2:
Work with Safran as follows: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 1, work 1 sc in one of the large ch-spaces on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2, * ch 2, 1 sc in next small ch-space on SQUARE 1, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in next large ch-space on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2. Then work around SQUARE 2 as follows: ** ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, 8 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but instead of last sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

SQUARE 3:
Work as SQUARE 1 from 1st to 3rd round.
ROUND 4: Work with Safran as follows: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 2, work 1 sc in the large ch-space in one corner on SQUARE 2 (i.e. in the side where SQUARE 2 is not worked tog with SQUARE 1), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 3, * ch 2, 1 sc in next small ch-space on SQUARE 2, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 3 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in next large ch-space on SQUARE 2 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 3. Then work around SQUARE 3 as follows: ** ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, 8 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but instead of last sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Fasten off.

SQUARE 4:
Work as SQUARE 2 from 1st to 3rd round and work SQUARE 4 tog with SQUARE 3 the same way as SQUARE 3 was worked tog with SQUARE 2.

ROW 2:
SQUARE 5:
Work 1st to 3rd round as SQUARE 2.
ROUND 4: Work with Safran as follows: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 1, work 1 sc in sc worked in the corner between SQUARE 1 and SQUARE 2, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 5, * ch 2, 1 sc in next small ch-space on SQUARE 1, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 5 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in next large ch-space on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 5. Then work around SQUARE 5 as follows: ** ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, 8 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but instead of last sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Fasten off.

SQUARE 6:
Work 1st to 3rd round as SQUARE 1. Then work this square tog with SQUARE 2 and SQUARE 5.
ROUND 4: Work with Safran as follows: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 2, work 1 sc in sc worked in the corner between SQUARE 2 and SQUARE 3, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 6, * ch 2, 1 sc in next small ch-space on SQUARE 2, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 6 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in sc worked in the corner between SQUARE 5, SQUARE 2 and SQUARE 1, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 6, ** ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 5, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 6 **, repeat from **-** 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in next large ch-space in the corner on SQUARE 5, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 6, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, 8 ch, 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Fasten off.

SQUARE 7:
Work 1st to 3rd round as SQUARE 2. Then work the square tog with SQUARE 6 and SQUARE 3 the same way as SQUARE 6 was worked tog with SQUARE 5 and SQUARE 2.

SQUARE 8:
Work 1st to 3rd round as SQUARE 1. Then work the square tog with SQUARE 7 and SQUARE 4 the same way as SQUARE 7 was worked tog with SQUARE 6 and SQUARE 3.

Continue to work rows the same way as ROW 2 but make sure to switch the yarn types so that every square alternately has Safran and Cotton Viscose in the middle.
Work a total of 14-16-18-20-22-24 rows (i.e. 56-64-72-80-88-96 squares) - AT THE SAME TIME when working last row, work the squares tog in both the next to last row and the first row to form a circle.

CONTINUING BODY:
Then work front and back piece separately back and forth so that crochet pattern is the same the entire way.

FRONT PIECE:
READ CROCHET INFO.
Work with Safran on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 along 7-8-9-10-11-12 of the squares in one side. Work 3 dc in every ch-space, i.e. 12 dc along every square = 84-96-108-120-132-144 dc in total on row. Then work PATTERN until finished measurements - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 26 cm / 10 1/4'' in total, inc 1 st in each side by working 2 sts in next to last st. Repeat inc every 2-2-2-2½-2½-2½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8" a total of 4 times = 92-104-116-128-140-152 sts.
When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm / 13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾'' in total, dec for armholes on every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 0-2-2-3-3-4 times and 1 st 2-3-4-4-5-4 times - SEE DECREASE TIP. = 80-82-86-88-92-96 sts remain.
When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm / 17¼''-18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼'', dec for neck. This is done by no longer working over the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts (i.e. on 1st row only work over the 31-32-33-34-35-37 sts in the one side).
Then dec towards the neck on every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 4 times - SEE DECREASE TIP.
After all dec are done, 22-23-24-25-26-28 sts remain on shoulder.
Cut the yarn when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''. Work the other shoulder the same way.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece but do not dec for neck. Continue to work until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'', now work 2 cm / 3/4'' over 22-23-24-25-26-28 sts on each shoulder before cutting the yarn.

SLEEVE:
Work 4-4-4-5-5-5 squares – as on row 1 on body but in addition work first and last square tog to form a circle.
Then work dc along the one side of squares on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran as follows: 3 dc in each of the 2 small ch-spaces on every square and 4 dc in every ch-space in the corners (= 14 dc per square) = 56-56-56-70-70-70 dc in total.
Continue with PATTERN back and forth as on body. When piece measures 10-10-8-8-8-8 cm / 4"-4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8", inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 2½-1½-1½-2-1½-1 cm / 7/8"-½"-½"-7/8"-½"-3/8" a total of 9-12-14-10-12-16 times = 74-80-84-90-94-102 sts.
When piece measures 32-31-30-29-27-26 cm / 12½"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/8"-10 5/8"-10 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), dec for sleeve cap on every row in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2-3-4-6-8-9 times, then dec 2 sts in each side until piece measures 39 cm / 15 1/4'', then dec 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cut the yarn, sleeve measures approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4'' in all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side and sleeve seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew in the sleeves.
Work at the bottom around the sleeves and around the body with Cotton Viscose as follows: 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in first sc. Work the same way around the neck but then skip approx. 1 cm / ½'' between every ch-space.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.06.2012
ROW 1:
...ROUND 4 (switch back to Safran): ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 8, 1 sc in next ch-space (= corner) *, ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 dc
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 136-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Anneloes 30.10.2019 - 10:14:

Beste, Waarom krijg ik geen antwoord op mijn vraag, de 22-10-2019?

user icon DROPS Design 30.10.2019 kl. 10:46:

Dag Anneloes,

Over het hoofd gezien, maar ik heb je vraag nu beantwoord, dus hopelijk kun je nu verder.

country flag Anneloes 22.10.2019 - 10:04:

Beste, ik moet meerderen/minderen op het pant en de mouwen, maar nu is mijn vraag.... moet ik de steken dan achtereen meerderen/minderen per toer, of juist verspreid? Gr. Anneloes

user icon DROPS Design 30.10.2019 kl. 10:45:

Dag Annelies,

Op de panden meerder je aan de om de 2-2-2½-2½-2½ cm in de hoogte in totaal 4 keer. Je meerdert dan aan de zijkanten (zoals beschreven in het patroon). Voor de mouwen geldt het zelfde bij het meerderen en als je aan het einde moet minderen voor de mouwkop is dit ook telkens aan de zijkanten, dus je kant dan aan het begin van de naald de te minderen steken af.

country flag Anneloes 27.09.2019 - 07:51:

Hoi, ik wil verdergaan met het patroon, maar ik kom met de open vierkantjes niet ui. Ik hen een rij van 6 vierkanten, waarin ik dus 72 stukjes in de lossen lussen heb gehaakt. Ik houd aan het eind telkens 1 steek over, bij het haken van de gaatjes. (1 stokje, 1 losse, 1 stokje, enz.) Wat doe ik fout? Gr. Anneloes

user icon DROPS Design 27.09.2019 kl. 15:01:

Dag Anneloes,

Als ik het goed begrijp heb haak je maat L en heb je dus in totaal 72 vierkantjes gehaakt. In de kleinste maat heb je al 7 vierkantjes op het voorpand en het achterpand (dus 14 in de rondte), ik begrijp dus niet goed hoe je op een rij van 6 vierkanten komt. (Als je verder gaat met de panden vanaf de vierkantjes haak je steeds 3 stokjes in elke lossenlus van de vierkantjes.)

country flag Sara 04.09.2018 - 14:56:

Hallo! Ich bin nun beim Fertigstellen dieses schönen Pullis. Wie ist denn der allerletzte Satz in der Anleitung (bei: Zusammennähen) gemeint? "Rund um den Hals wiederholen jedoch zwischen jedem Lm-Bogen ca. 1cm überspringen." Heißt das, man soll nach jedem/ immer nach einem Zentimeter eine feste Masche stricken und dazwischen die 5 Lm? Danke für eine Antwort! Sara

user icon DROPS Design 05.09.2018 kl. 07:44:

Liebe Sara, ja genau so wird die Kante gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Barbara Lightfoot 04.06.2018 - 11:34:

Hi, I am not quite sure how to join the end of the bottom piece, when complete, to the front of itself? Before, we have been joining a square into an L shaped gap downwards, but now we must join two squares side by side together before one of them is complete, upwards?

user icon DROPS Design 04.06.2018 kl. 13:22:

Dear Mrs Lightfoot, on 2nd row with squares, crochet last round on 1st square together with the bottom square along only 1 side. When working next squares, crochet the last round on next square together with the side of the previous square on row 2, then along side of next square from previous row (= 2 sides are crocheted tog). When working last square on row, you crochet the last round to the previoius square on same row, to the next square on previous row and to the first square same row (= along 3 sides). Happy crocheting!

Hanaa Zahran 08.04.2018 - 10:47:

Hi, I will make this pattern and I want it a bit longer can u help me how to add rows in this pattern thank you for your help.

user icon DROPS Design 09.04.2018 kl. 10:22:

Dear Mrs Zahran, we are unfortunately not able to adapt every single pattern to each individual request. For any further assistance you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

country flag Annika Johansson 19.03.2018 - 15:57:

Hejsan! Alltså det här med att inte klippa av garnet vid färgbyte. Menar ni att den färgen man inte använder ska löpa med i arbetet varje varv? Räcker garnet då? Och i hålvarvet blir det inte särskilt snyggt, tycker jag. Tror att någon frågat ungefär samma på tyska. Tyvärr förstod jag inte riktigt svaret. Med vänlig hälsning, Annika

user icon DROPS Design 20.03.2018 kl. 08:50:

Hej Annika, du drar inte tråden med runt, men upp till det varv den skall användas igen. Lycka till!

country flag Rianne 19.02.2018 - 22:54:

Kan dit patroon ook helemaal van safran worden gemaakt?

user icon DROPS Design 20.02.2018 kl. 16:35:

Hallo Rianne, Ja hoor, dat kan. Safran heeft ook een denimblauw; kleurnummer 06.

country flag Mie 10.03.2016 - 12:49:

Hvor kan jeg se hvor mange nøgler garn jeg skal bruge?

user icon DROPS Design 10.03.2016 kl. 13:36:

Hej Mie. Det staar i starten af mönstret: Materialer: DROPS SAFRAN fra Garnstudio 300-300-350-350-400-450 g f.nr 05, lys blålilla Og brug: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE fra Garnstudio 150-200-200-200-250-250 g f.nr 22, denim

country flag Mie 10.03.2016 - 10:24:

Hvor kan jeg se hvor mange nøgler garn jeg skal bruge?

user icon DROPS Design 10.03.2016 kl. 10:33:

Hej Mie, Du finder garnforbruget lige til højre for billedet der hvor der står Materialer. God fornøjelse!

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