DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!



Crochet DROPS jacket with short sleeves and round yoke in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 136-14
DROPS design: Pattern no E-185
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-122-132 cm / 33"-36¼"-39⅜"-43⅜"-48"-52"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-400 g color no 09, navy blue
50 g for all sizes in color no 18, off white.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C – or size needed to get 22 sts x 20 rows with STRIPE PATTERN = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
* Work 2 sc rows with off white, then 1 dc row with navy blue and 1 sc row with navy blue *, repeat from *-* for approx. 12 cm / 4¾", finish after 1 whole repetition.

Beg every sc row with 1 ch and beg every dc row with 3 ch – these do not replace first sc/tr on row.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck):
Dec at beg of row by working sl st over the no of sts to be dec.
Dec at end of row by working until same no of sts to be dec remains, turn piece.

Worked back and forth from mid front.
Work 192-210-234-257-290-318 ch on hook size 3 mm / C with navy blue. Turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in each of the next 1-5-1-3-1-1 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the rest of row = 164-180-200-220-248-272 sc. Then work sc back and forth for 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8" - READ CROCHET TIP!
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 41-45-50-55-62-68 sc in from each side (= 82-90-100-110-124-136 sc between markers on back piece). Continue with STRIPE PATTERN - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row in stripe pattern, inc 1 st on each side of markers in the sides – inc by working 2 sts in 1 st. Repeat inc every 2 cm / ¾" 4 more times = 184-200-220-240-268-292 sts on row. When stripe pattern has been worked, piece measures approx. 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm / 10⅝"-11"-11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12½".
Continue with navy blue as follows: * 2 sc rows, 1 dc row, 1 sc row *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements.
When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜", work next row as follows: Work as before over the first 41-44-49-53-60-65 sts, then work 62-69-69-76-76-83 ch (= over sleeve), skip 10-12-12-14-14-16 sts and work over the next 82-88-98-106-120-130 sts, work 62-69-69-76-76-83 ch (= over sleeve), skip 10-12-12-14-14-16 sts and work over the last 41-44-49-53-60-65 sts. Turn and work pattern as before over all sts on front and back piece, over ch-row on each sleeve work as follows: 1 sc/tr (depending on where you are in the pattern) in each of the first ch 6, * skip ch 1, 1 sc/tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* over all ch. There are now 272-296-316-344-372-404 sts on row.
Insert 15-16-16-17-17-18 markers in the piece as follows: Insert first marker after 10-13-16-12-18-15 sts, then insert the next markers 18-18-19-20-21-22 sts apart, then 10-13-15-12-18-15 sts remain after last marker.
Work 2 more rows with pattern before beg dec. Then on next row dec 1 st before every marker (i.e. dec 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts) – dec by skipping 1 st.
Repeat dec on every 4th row 7 more times and then on every other row 2-3-4-5-6-7 times – NOTE: Dec alternately before and after all the markers.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾"-16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾" (measured mid front), dec for neck – Read DECREASE TIP. Dec on every row in each side: 8 sts 1 time, 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st until all dec on yoke are done. After all dec, approx. 70 to 90 sts remain on row, work 1 more row, cut the yarn.

Work approx. 85 to 105 sc with navy blue along left band – make sure that no of sts neither tightens nor widens the edge. Work a total of 6 sc rows back and forth, cut the thread.

Work as left band but after 2 rows, work 5-5-5-6-6-6 button holes evenly – see explanation below – bottom button hole should be approx. 2 cm / ¾" from cast on edge and upper button hole should be approx. 3 cm / 1⅛" from the top (there should also be 1 button hole on the neck edge). 1 button hole = ch 2, skip 2 sc and fasten with 1 sc in next sc. On next row work 2 sc in every ch-space.

Work approx. 120 to 140 sc around the neck (also over the front bands) with navy blue. Work 4 more sc rows back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row work 1 button hole over the others on right band. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY: Sew on buttons.

SKIRT – see design: 136-15


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Andy wrote:

Hola, no puedo encontrarle la vuelta al patron del cuello. Si pudieran darme una explicación sencilla con el talle S. Me quedé barada alli lo demás está terminado

08.04.2024 - 03:40

country flag Vanesa wrote:

¿Después del patrón de franjas se teje todo a p.b o se sigue haciendo como en el patrón de franjas hasta terminar el cuerpo pero solo a 1 color? Gracias

21.05.2023 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Vanesa, como se indica en el patrón: "Continuar con azul marino de la manera sig: * 2 hileras de p.b., 1 hilera de p.a., 1 hilera de p.b. *, repetir de *a* hasta completar las medidas. " Así que tendrás que alternar entre hileras de p.b e hileras de p.a.

21.05.2023 - 19:55

country flag Therese Kristensen wrote:

I had a very difficult time understanding the decrease. 1. When it says \"every 4th row\" is that decrease a row, then crochet three rows, then decrease another row? \r\n2. Is the 8-4-2-1 decrease on the sides repeated until you have completed all of the decreases in the body? Or do you only do that one time?

23.04.2023 - 02:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Therese, for question nº1: yes, that's right, you work decreases on 1 row and then work 3 rows without decreases. Now decrease on the next row and work the next 3 rows without decreases. Repeat in this way. for question nº2: decrease 8 sts 1 time, 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time. From here on, decrease 1 st on every row in each side until the decreases are done. Happy knitting!

23.04.2023 - 20:17

country flag Fransien wrote:

Ik heb alle minderingen van de pas van het vestje gemaakt en moet nu met de halsrand beginnen; ik krijg dan een soort sprong tussen de laatste mindering (middenvoor hals) en de laatste toer van de pas. Ik weet niet hoe ik verder moet! Kunt u mij advies geven?

29.03.2022 - 23:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fransien,

Je kunt halve vasten minderen over het aantal steken dat geminderd moet worden aan het begin van de toer. Op die manier heb je geen sprong. (Dit staat ook aangegeven bovenaan bij 'tip voor het minderen').

04.04.2022 - 13:32

country flag Bieke Van Bauwel wrote:

Beste, Ik ben aan het einde van het vestje, maar ik kom na alle minderingen aan de markeerders en de hals op veel meer dan 70 tot 90 steken? Bij XL start je bij 372 steken en minder je 7x17 en 6x17 steken op 40 toeren, dan nog 28 aan de zijkanten, dan kom ik op 123 steken en is de hoogte nog niet bereikt, en de hals is te breed. Doe ik iets verkeerd? Verder heel leuk model, hopelijk kan ik het tot een goed einde brengen. 🙏 Alvast bedankt. Bieke

26.07.2021 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bieke,

Je mindert in totaal 8 x 17 steken en 6 x 17 steken op de pas = 238 steken geminderd. Voor de hals minder je in totaal minimaal 14 steken aan beide kanten (8 + 4 + 2), dus 28 steken. 372-238-28=106 steken. Vervolgens minder je steeds 1 steek aan elke kant van de hals totdat alle minderingen voor de pas klaar zijn. Waarschijnlijk kom je dan wel op ongeveer 70 tot 90 steken (70 voor de kleinste maat, 90 voor de grootste maat).

19.08.2021 - 14:03

country flag Josefin wrote:

Hej! Vad syftar "sida" på när man börjar maska av till hals? Förstår inte riktigt

21.03.2021 - 11:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Josefin, når du maskar av till hals gør du det i hver side mod midt foran, altså først 8 masker i den ene side (foran) og så 8 masker i den anden side (foran). God fornøjelse!

23.03.2021 - 13:52

country flag Maddalena wrote:

Risulta strana la quantità per la tg. XL Raffaella 28.08.2017 - 17:23: Buongiorno, credo che sia sbagliata l indicazione dei gr da usare per la tg XL . Grazie Raffaella

22.08.2019 - 22:33

country flag Annette wrote:

Jag ställde en fråga den17/4 jag har inte fått något svar ännu

23.04.2019 - 09:44

country flag Annette wrote:

När jag har virkat 41 fm in och gjort den första ökningen, hur gör jag vid nästa ökning? Virkar jag 41fm igen innan jag gör ökning igen, det blir ju fyra maskor mer för varje ökning

17.04.2019 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Du gör ökningarna på varje sida av markörerna varje gång, totalt 5 gånger (2 cm mellan varje ökning). Det blir alltså 4 maskor mer per ökningsvarv. När ökningarna är färdiga har du 20 mer maskor totalt. Lycka till!

23.04.2019 - 10:29

country flag Janni wrote:

Jeg er lidt i tvivl. Skal man forsætte med mønsteret: 2 rækker fm, 1 række st og 1 række fm, resten af stykket efter stribemønsteret, og helt op til alle aflukningerne?

27.09.2018 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Janni, ja det stemmer, se her: Når stribemønsteret er færdig, måler arb ca 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm. Fortsæt med marineblå således: * 2 rækker fm, 1 række st, 1 række fm *, gentag fra *-* til færdig mål. God fornøjelse!

28.09.2018 - 15:14