DROPS / 131 / 18

Snowflake by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Crochet hat / Santa hat and mittens in DROPS Eskimo or DROPS Andes with flower in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-380-381
Yarn group E
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HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L
To fit head circumference: 56/58 - 58/60 cm / 22"/22 3/4" - 22 3/4"/23½"

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100-150 g color no 08, red
And use: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 7mm / K/10½ – or size needed to get 11 hdc = 10 cm / 4'' in width.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - for flower.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 - for crochet border.
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MITTENS:
Size: S/M - M/L

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 08, red
And use: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 7mm / K/10½ – or size needed to get 11 hdc = 10 cm / 4'' in width.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4mm / G/6 - for flower.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6mm / J/10 - for crochet border.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 7.85 $ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 7.85 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 8.25 $ /100g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.10$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HAT:
WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last st on the round, continue to next round with 1 st in next st (= first st on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last st and first st on the round, move the marker upwards.
NOTE! Work hdc in the back loop of st as follows: Make a YO, insert the hook through back loop of next hdc, get the yarn, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on the hook.
WORK BACK AND FORTH:
From RS: ch 2 (not counted as 1 st), work hdc in back loop of all sts, turn piece.
From WS: ch 2 (not counted as 1 st), work hdc in front loop of all sts, turn piece.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 hdc by working 2 hdc in 1 hdc.
CROCHET 2 HDC TOG:
From RS: * Make a YO, insert hook in back loop of next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook.
From WS: * Make a YO, insert hook in front loop of next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook.
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HAT:
Worked in the round top down. With Eskimo and on hook size 7mm /K/10½ ch 4. Form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: ch 2, 8 hdc in ch-ring - Read "work in the round in a circle" above, round begins mid back.
ROUND 2: Work 2 hdc in every hdc - Read increase tip above = 16 hdc.
ROUND 3: * Work 1 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 hdc.
ROUND 4: * Work 2 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 hdc.
ROUND 5: * Work 3 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 hdc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 hdc in every hdc = 40 hdc.
ROUND 7: * Work 4 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 hdc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 hdc in every hdc = 48 hdc.
ROUND 9: * Work 5 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 hdc.
ROUND 10: Work 1 hdc in every hdc = 56 hdc.
Size M/L:
ROUND 11: * Work 13 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 hdc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 hdc in every hdc = 60 hdc.
Both sizes: 56-60 hdc. Continue with 1 hdc in every hdc until piece measures 21-22 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4" vertically, finish round with 1 sl st in next st. Fasten off.

EAR FLAP:
With Eskimo and on hook size 7mm /K/10½ work back and forth.
ROW 1 (= RS): from RS join in the 9th-10th st from last round (counted from mid back), ch 2, work 1 hdc in same st, work 1 hdc in the next 9 sts = 10 hdc in all size - Read "work back and forth" above, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 1 hdc in every hdc = 10 hdc.
ROW 3: ch 2, skip 1st st, work 1 hdc in next st and then 1 hdc in every st until 2 sts remain on row, skip next st and work 1 hdc in last st = 8 hdc.
Repeat 3rd row 3 more times (= 2 sts dec on every row, work in back loop of st from RS, work in front loop of st from WS). 2 sts remain on row, work these 2 sts tog - See explanation above.
Work another ear flap the same way in the other side of hat.

FLOWER:
Work with 1 strand Karisma and hook size 4 mm / G/6 as follows: ch 5 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. * ch 10, 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook, 1 sl st in each of the remaining ch, 1 sl st in the ring *. Repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, fasten off. Sew the flower with Karisma to mid front of hat.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work from RS with 2 strands Karisma and hook size 6 mm / J/10 as follows: start mid back, work sc (1 sc in every st/row) around the hat and ear flaps, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc.

TIES AND TASSELS:
1 tassel = cut 8 strands Eskimo and 12 strands Karisma of 15 cm / 6'' each. Fold the strands double and tie one strand Karisma around the tassel (approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' from the top), fasten tightly.
1 tie = cut 1 strand Eskimo and 4 strands Karisma of approx. 25 cm / 10''. Fasten the ends at the bottom of the ear flap, braid the strands tog (divide them as 2 strands Karisma + 2 strands Karisma + 1 strand Eskimo). Make a knot when the braid measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' (or desired length), and pull the yarn ends through the tassel. Make another tassel and tie and fasten to the ear flap in the other side.

POMPOM:
Make 1 pompom of approx. 8 cm / 3'' in diameter with approx. half Eskimo and half Karisma. Sew the pompom on the top of the hat.
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MITTENS:
WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last st on the round, continue to next round with 1 st in next st (= first st on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last st and first st on the round, move the marker upwards.
NOTE! Work hdc in the back loop of st as follows: Make a YO, insert the hook through back loop of next hdc, get the yarn, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on the hook.
DECREASE TIP:
Crochet 2 hdc tog as follows: * Make a YO, insert hook in back loop of next st, get the yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook.
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RIGHT MITTEN:
Worked in the round bottom up. Ch 22-24 with Eskimo and hook size 7mm /K/10½. Form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Ch 2 (not counted as 1st hdc), then work 1 hdc in every ch the entire round = 22-24 hdc - Read "work in the round in a circle" above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 8-9 cm / 3 1/8"-3½'', make an opening for thumb as follows: ch 4-5 at beg of round, skip the first 4-5 sts, work 1 hdc in next st and the remaining sts on the round = 18-19 hdc. On next round, work 1 hdc in every ch from previous round = 22-24 hdc. Continue in the round until piece measures 19-20 cm / 7½"-8", or to desired length (approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' remain until finished measurements). Now dec by working 2 hdc tog the entire round = 11-12 hdc - Read decrease tip above. Repeat dec on next round (work 1 hdc in the remaining hdc in size S/M) = 6-6 hdc. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten tightly.

THUMB:
Join at the opening for thumb and ch 2 (not counted as 1st hdc), work 8-10 hdc around the opening. Work in the round with 1 hdc in every hdc for 3-4 rounds (or to desired length). On next round, dec by working 2 hdc tog = 4-5 hdc remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten tightly.

FLOWER:
Work with 1 strand Karisma on hook size 4 mm / G/6 as follows: ch 5 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. * ch 10, 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook, 1 sl st in each of the remaining ch, 1 sl st in the ring *. Repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, fasten off. Sew the flower with Karisma to mid front of mitten.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work with 2 strands Karisma and hook size 6 mm / J/10 as follows: join at the bottom edge, work 1 sc in every st the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc, fasten off.

LEFT MITTEN:
Work as right mitten but work opening for thumb as follows: When piece measures 8-9 cm / 3 1/8"-3½'', make an opening for thumb as follows: Work 1 hdc in every st until 4-5 sts remain on round, ch 4-5 and skip the last 4-5 sts = 18-19 hdc. On next round, work 1 hdc in every ch from previous round = 22-24 hdc.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 131-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Kati 05.05.2013 - 19:14:

Superlahe müts tuleb, aga ma üsna palju muutsin neid kahandamise-kasvatamise kohti, et väga suur ei tuleks. samas kui põhimõte selge, siis pole enam peamurdmist, kuidas küll seda lahedat kõrvadega mütsi teha :)

Gi87 03.02.2013 - 22:59:

Love, love, love this pattern but having lots of trouble with the thumbs! Any tips for crocheting around the area greatly appreciated.

DROPS Design 04.02.2013 kl. 10:22:

Dear Gi87, when mitten measured 3 1/8"-3 1/2", you made an opening for thumb crocheting 4-5 ch and skipping the first 4-5 sts. This is the hole for the thumb, you join thread there and crochet in hdc around the opening starting with 2 ch (does not count as 1st hdc). Happy crocheting !

Helen 28.06.2012 - 03:36:

Does this pattern run small I am following the gauge and it seems small

DROPS Design 06.12.2012 kl. 11:05:

Hi Helen, do you have the indicated tension of 11 hdc = 10 cm ? Happy crocheting !

Helen 28.06.2012 - 03:35:

Does this pattern run small I am following the gauge and it seems small

Sofie Snauwaert 05.03.2012 - 18:41:

Ik heb problemen met de oorflappen.Voorste of achterste lus,is dat gezien vanuit de kant dat je haakt of vanuit de goede kant? toer 1 begin je met 2l, net zoals de andere toeren,enkel toer2begin je zonder 2l, waardoor je in het begin een schuine en een rechte kant hebt(rechte kant achteraan Maar als je de andere flap maakt,dan komt ofwel de rechte kant vooraan (goede kant begint in 19e steek) of begin je aan de verkeerde kant(in de 9e steek),maar dan krijg je toch 2 verschillende oorflappen?

DROPS Design 12.03.2012 kl. 11:51:

In de voorste of achterste lus gezien zoals u het werk houdt als u haakt. En u haakt wel altijd eerst 2 l elke toer, deze informatie staat boven zoals genoemd in het patroon onder: "Lees HAAK HEEN EN WEER boven." gr. Angelique

Tarja 16.06.2011 - 09:20:

Hyvä virkattu malli

Marja 11.06.2011 - 00:25:

Mieleinen malli!

Agnes 09.06.2011 - 17:42:

Mycket snyggt set!

Ina 31.05.2011 - 17:20:

Herrlich frech!

Pia 28.05.2011 - 16:17:

Wow, äntligen virkad mössa!

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