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Measurements: approx. height 35 cm / 14'', approx. width 42 cm / 16½''
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
400 g color no 56, Christmas red
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 12 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 100 g poly stuffing for filling
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Snow 100% Wool |
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid a hole in the middle (instead of a ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop, ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side. Continue to work in the round in a circle.
WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= first sc on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker between last sc and first sc on the round, move the marker upwards.
WORKING 2 SC TOG:
* Insert hook in next st, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HEART:
First work 2 halves top down, then place the 2 parts tog and continue to work in the round towards the bottom of the heart.
Start by working a Magic circle with Snow on hook size 5 mm / H/8 - READ EXPLANATION ABOVE!
ROUND 1: Work 7 sc in the magic circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE!
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 14 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 21 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 28 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 35 sc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 sc in every sc = 35 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 42 sc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 sc in every sc = 42 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 49 sc.
ROUND 10-11: Work 1 sc in every sc = 49 sc on the round.
ROUND 12: * 1 sc in the next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 56 sc.
ROUND 13-18: Work 1 sc in every sc = 56 sc on the round.
Cut the yarn and keep 40 cm / 16'' for assembly.
Work another half heart the same way but do not cut the yarn to continue to next round.
Now place the 2 parts tog so that last sc from last round on both parts is towards each other. Sew tog the next 8 sc on both parts with 1 stitch in every st, cut and fasten the thread. Pick up thread from the last sc from ROUND 18 on the second half heart (= now the mid of heart) and continue to work around both parts as follows:
ROUND 19: Work 1 sc in every sc = 96 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in the next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 104 sc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 sc in every sc = 104 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in the next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 112 sc.
ROUND 23-24: Work 1 sc in every sc = 112 sc on the round.
ROUND 25: * 1 sc in the next 26 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog * - Read explanation above, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 108 sc.
ROUND 26: Work 1 sc in every sc = 108 sc.
ROUND 27: * 1 sc in the next 25 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 104 sc.
ROUND 28: Work 1 sc in every sc = 104 sc.
ROUND 29: * 1 sc in the next 24 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 100 sc.
ROUND 30: Work 1 sc in every sc = 100 sc.
ROUND 31: * 1 sc in the next 23 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 96 sc.
ROUND 32: Work 1 sc in every sc = 96 sc.
ROUND 33: * 1 sc in the next 10 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 88 sc.
ROUND 34: Work 1 sc in every sc = 88 sc.
ROUND 35: * 1 sc in the next 9 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 80 sc.
ROUND 36: Work 1 sc in every sc = 80 sc.
ROUND 37: * 1 sc in the next 8 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 72 sc.
ROUND 38: Work 1 sc in every sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 39: * 1 sc in the next 7 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 64 sc.
ROUND 40: Work 1 sc in every sc = 64 sc.
ROUND 41: * 1 sc in the next 6 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 56 sc.
ROUND 42: Work 1 sc in every sc = 56 sc.
ROUND 43: * 1 sc in the next 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 48 sc.
ROUND 44: Work 1 sc in every sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 45: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 40 sc.
ROUND 46: Work 1 sc in every sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 47: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 32 sc.
ROUND 48: Work 1 sc in every sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 49: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 sc.
ROUND 50: Work 1 sc in every sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 51: * 1 sc in next sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 16 sc. Fill the heart with some poly stuffing until approx. 1 cm / ½'' from edge.
ROUND 52: Work 1 sc in every sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 53: Crochet all sc tog 2 by 2 = 8 sc.
ROUND 54: Crochet all sc tog 2 by 2 = 4 sc. Fill some poly stuffing through the hole.
Cut the thread and pull it through all the sts, fasten the thread.
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-760) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (17)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 268 catalogs and 9976 patterns - 9932 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Kan jeg bruge bomuld 8/4 og nål 3,0 og så måske fordoble antal masker og rækker?
DROPS Design
14.04.2021 kl. 15:15:
Hej Anna, du er nødt til at lave en hækleprøve så du er sikker på at få 12 fm på 10 cm (for at få samme størrelse som her) God fornøjelse!Do you have a knitted pattern for the large heart cushion .I do not crochet. Thank you ,Geraldine
DROPS Design
09.02.2021 kl. 07:32:
Hi Geraldine, Sadly, we do not have a knitted heart-cushion at the moment. Regards, Drops Team.I don’t know if I’m being a little thick here but how many stitches are needed in the magic circle?
DROPS Design
01.02.2021 kl. 10:18:
Dear Serena, you are working 7 dc in the magic circle - see ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE! Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!Varje hjärthalva slutar med att man har 56 fm det blir 112 m sammanlagt. Sen står det att man skall sy ihop 8, lite oklart hur.Det innebär att jag skulle ha 104 fm att virka på. Men i mönster står det att efter jag sytt ihop 8 skall jag virka över 96 fm. Jag har fått det till 98. Det är något som inte stämmer.
DROPS Design
20.02.2020 kl. 08:58:
Hej Mariette, du syr ihop 8 maskor från varje hjärthalva. 56-8=48 x 2 = 96 maskor. Lycka till :)Hej Jeg er i gang med at hækle det flotte hjerte og er nu færdig med overdelen..de 2 hjertehalvdele ;-) Mit spørgsmål er....skal disse 2 halvdele ik vendes efter de er blevet monteret sammen?? Det står ikke i opskriften. Men jeg har aldrig hæklet andet en tæpper og klude. Derfor svare mit spørgsmål nok til en nybegynder :-) Jeg håber at høre fra jer snarest. Mvh Maria
DROPS Design
20.02.2020 kl. 08:54:
Hej Maria, nej du skal ikke vende arbejdet, du fortsætter med at hækle rundt fra retsiden over de to hjertehalvdele. Du må gerne sy de 8 fm sammen fra vrangen om du får det pænere hvis det egentlig er det du mener... God fornøjelse :)My question prior can be disregarded, I should have did a little investigating......looked up the yarn and figured it out! Bulky Yarn about 440 yards!
I love this heart, and is the only one I like that I've found anywhere on the net. My question to start is how much yarn do I need? The type of yarn is only listed but not the yardage and number of hanks or skeins. thank you, Karen USA
DROPS Design
03.02.2020 kl. 07:27:
Hi Karen, The pattern uses 400 g (or 8 balls) of Drops Eskimo. This will give you 55 x 8 = 440 yards. Happy knitting!Witam!Nie rozumiem jak mam połączyć te dwie zrobione połówki,ogólnie nie rozumiem tego tekstu po 18 rzędzie ?Najlepszym rozwiązaniem byłby jakiś filmik,lub fotki jak ktoś to wykonuje,dalsze rzędy rozumiem!Proszę o pomoc!
DROPS Design
07.02.2019 kl. 16:32:
Witaj Grażyno! Należy zszyć razem 8 oczek każdego łuku (środek serca), następnie na szydełku przerabiać 1 oś we wszystkie pozostałe oś wokół każdego łuku (= jest 56 oś na każdym łuku - 8 oś zszytych razem = 48 oś pozostaje na każdym łuku, 1 oś w każde z 48 oś na każdym łuku = 96 oś). Miłej pracy!Favorite ! Love love..your talent is inspiring to watch. Thanks for the heart pillow..I will treasure..making it for my 65th Valentine's Birthday this year💓❗💞
I just really really like your work and to drop in on your blot ..such a talented lady