DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS Extra 0-760
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-355
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Measurements: approx. height 35 cm, approx. width 42 cm

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
400 g colour no 56, Christmas red

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 12 dc = width 10 cm.

ACCESSORIES: Approx. 100 g cotton wool for filling

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO:
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop, work 1 ch, then work dc around the loop. When the desired no of dc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last dc on the round, continue to next round with 1 dc in next dc (= first dc on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker between last dc and first dc on the round, move the marker upwards.

WORKING 2 DC TOG:
* Insert hook in next st, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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HEART:
First work 2 halves top down, then place the 2 parts tog and continue to work in the round towards the bottom of the heart.
Start by working a Magic circle with Snow on hook size 5 mm - READ EXPLANATION ABOVE!
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE!
ROUND 2: 2 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 35 dc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in every dc = 35 dc.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in the next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 42 dc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 dc in every dc = 42 dc.
ROUND 9: * 1 dc in the next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 49 dc.
ROUND 10-11: Work 1 dc in every dc = 49 dc on the round.
ROUND 12: * 1 dc in the next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 56 dc.
ROUND 13-18: Work 1 dc in every dc = 56 dc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 40 cm for assembly.
Work another half heart the same way but do not cut the thread to continue to next round.
Now place the 2 parts tog so that last dc from last round on both parts is against each other. Sew tog the next 8 dc on both parts with 1 stitch in every st, cut and fasten the thread. Pick up thread from the last dc from ROUND 18 on the second half heart (= now the mid of heart) and continue to work around both parts as follows:
ROUND 19: Work 1 dc in every dc = 96 dc.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in the next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 104 dc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 dc in every dc = 104 dc.
ROUND 22: * 1 dc in the next 12 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 112 dc.
ROUND 23-24: Work 1 dc in every dc = 112 dc on the round.
ROUND 25: * 1 dc in the next 26 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog * - Read explanation above, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 108 dc.
ROUND 26: Work 1 dc in every dc = 108 dc.
ROUND 27: * 1 dc in the next 25 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 104 dc.
ROUND 28: Work 1 dc in every dc = 104 dc.
ROUND 29: * 1 dc in the next 24 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 100 dc.
ROUND 30: Work 1 dc in every dc = 100 dc.
ROUND 31: * 1 dc in the next 23 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 96 dc.
ROUND 32: Work 1 dc in every dc = 96 dc.
ROUND 33: * 1 dc in the next 10 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 88 dc.
ROUND 34: Work 1 dc in every dc = 88 dc.
ROUND 35: * 1 dc in the next 9 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 80 dc.
ROUND 36: Work 1 dc in every dc = 80 dc.
ROUND 37: * 1 dc in the next 8 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 72 dc.
ROUND 38: Work 1 dc in every dc = 72 dc.
ROUND 39: * 1 dc in the next 7 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 64 dc.
ROUND 40: Work 1 dc in every dc = 64 dc.
ROUND 41: * 1 dc in the next 6 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 56 dc.
ROUND 42: Work 1 dc in every dc = 56 dc.
ROUND 43: * 1 dc in the next 5 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 48 dc.
ROUND 44: Work 1 dc in every dc = 48 dc.
ROUND 45: * 1 dc in the next 4 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 40 dc.
ROUND 46: Work 1 dc in every dc = 40 dc.
ROUND 47: * 1 dc in the next 3 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 32 dc.
ROUND 48: Work 1 dc in every dc = 32 dc.
ROUND 49: * 1 dc in the next 2 dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 dc.
ROUND 50: Work 1 dc in every dc = 24 dc.
ROUND 51: * 1 dc in next dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 16 dc. Fill the heart with some cotton wool until approx. 1 cm from edge.
ROUND 52: Work 1 dc in every dc = 16 dc.
ROUND 53: Crochet all dc tog 2 by 2 = 8 dc.
ROUND 54: Crochet all dc tog 2 by 2 = 4 dc. Fill some cotton wool through the hole. Cut the thread and pull it through all the sts, fasten the thread.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-760

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Mollie wrote:

Should the first half of the heart be wavy when your making it? X

29.12.2023 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mollie, it shouldn't be weavy, just make sure to check and keep same tension all the way. Happy crocheting!

02.01.2024 - 10:25

country flag Addison ❤️ wrote:

Thank you so much for including this pattern! I was so worried about what to get for my mom for Christmas, but when I saw the picture, I just knew. She will be so elated to receive this!

21.12.2023 - 21:49

country flag Jancoolka wrote:

V 21. riadku má byť nie 112 ks celkom, ale 104 ks, takže je tam menšia chyba.

14.01.2023 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Jancoolko, děkujeme za upozornění - opraveno! Ať se vám hezky háčkuje, Hana

16.01.2023 - 12:56

country flag Anna wrote:

Kan jeg bruge bomuld 8/4 og nål 3,0 og så måske fordoble antal masker og rækker?

13.04.2021 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna, du er nødt til at lave en hækleprøve så du er sikker på at få 12 fm på 10 cm (for at få samme størrelse som her) God fornøjelse!

14.04.2021 - 15:15

country flag Geraldine Lunde wrote:

Do you have a knitted pattern for the large heart cushion .I do not crochet. Thank you ,Geraldine

09.02.2021 - 00:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Geraldine, Sadly, we do not have a knitted heart-cushion at the moment. Regards, Drops Team.

09.02.2021 - 07:32

country flag Serena wrote:

I don’t know if I’m being a little thick here but how many stitches are needed in the magic circle?

31.01.2021 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Serena, you are working 7 dc in the magic circle - see ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE! Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

01.02.2021 - 10:18

country flag Mariette Razola wrote:

Varje hjärthalva slutar med att man har 56 fm det blir 112 m sammanlagt. Sen står det att man skall sy ihop 8, lite oklart hur.Det innebär att jag skulle ha 104 fm att virka på. Men i mönster står det att efter jag sytt ihop 8 skall jag virka över 96 fm. Jag har fått det till 98. Det är något som inte stämmer.

19.02.2020 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mariette, du syr ihop 8 maskor från varje hjärthalva. 56-8=48 x 2 = 96 maskor. Lycka till :)

20.02.2020 - 08:58

country flag Maria wrote:

Hej Jeg er i gang med at hækle det flotte hjerte og er nu færdig med overdelen..de 2 hjertehalvdele ;-) Mit spørgsmål er....skal disse 2 halvdele ik vendes efter de er blevet monteret sammen?? Det står ikke i opskriften. Men jeg har aldrig hæklet andet en tæpper og klude. Derfor svare mit spørgsmål nok til en nybegynder :-) Jeg håber at høre fra jer snarest. Mvh Maria

18.02.2020 - 01:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, nej du skal ikke vende arbejdet, du fortsætter med at hækle rundt fra retsiden over de to hjertehalvdele. Du må gerne sy de 8 fm sammen fra vrangen om du får det pænere hvis det egentlig er det du mener... God fornøjelse :)

20.02.2020 - 08:54

country flag Karen wrote:

My question prior can be disregarded, I should have did a little investigating......looked up the yarn and figured it out! Bulky Yarn about 440 yards!

01.02.2020 - 04:30

country flag Karen wrote:

I love this heart, and is the only one I like that I've found anywhere on the net. My question to start is how much yarn do I need? The type of yarn is only listed but not the yardage and number of hanks or skeins. thank you, Karen USA

01.02.2020 - 04:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Karen, The pattern uses 400 g (or 8 balls) of Drops Eskimo. This will give you 55 x 8 = 440 yards. Happy knitting!

03.02.2020 - 07:27