DROPS / 126 / 8

Rose Parade by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS bolero in ”Delight” with crochet squares round the edge. Size S to XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no DE-026
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Size: S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300 g color no 14, purple/green mix.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
NEW BALL OF YARN TIP:
To make the color transitions in Delight neat when starting a new ball of yarn it is important to use a ball beg with the same shade as finished the previous ball.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on each row/round with ch 3. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.

BOBBLE (applies to crochet square):
1 bobble = 3 tr crochet tog, i.e. wait with last pull-through on each tr until all 3 tr have been crochet, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 4 loops on hook.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth – See NEW BALL OF YARN TIP and CROCHET INFO!
Ch 88-97-106-118 loosely with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Delight. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 0-2-4-2 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* to end = 74-82-90-100 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each dc. When piece measures 5-6-7-8 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" inc 1 dc each side in the next-to-last dc – See INCREASING TIP, repeat the inc
when piece measures 11-12-13-14 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½" and again when piece measures 17-18-19-20 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8" = 80-88-96-106 dc. Continue until piece measures 21-23-25-27 cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8".

EDGE PIECE:
Work 1 dc in each of the 80-88-96-106 dc at the top along back piece, then ch 53-57-61-65 (= armhole), 1 dc in each of the 74-82-90-100 dc at the bottom along back piece, then ch 53-57-61-65 (= armhole), finish with 1 sl st in first dc on round. On next round work 1 dc in each dc at the top and at the bottom of back piece and in each ch space work 47-51-55-59 dc = 248-272-296-324 dc. Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 dc in first dc (replace by 3 ch), * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 1, skip 1 dc and work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in each ch.
Repeat these 2 rounds - AT THE SAME TIME when edge piece measures approx 4 cm / 1½'' (adjust so that next round is a round with only dc) inc 32-34-36-38 dc evenly – See INCREASING TIP - repeat the inc when piece measures approx 7 and 10 cm / 2 3/4" and 4" = 344-374-404-438 dc. Crochet until edge piece measures approx 12-13-14-15 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½"-6" – adjust to after a round with only dc.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Ch 6 with Delight and hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 12 dc in ring – See CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: ch 5 (= 1 dc + ch 2), 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* to end and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (= 12 ch spaces).
ROUND 3: 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch space (= 36 dc).
ROUND 4: ch 5, skip 2 dc, * 1 sc in next dc, ch 4, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first ch (= 12 ch spaces).
ROUND 5: ch 5, skip first ch space, in next ch space crochet *-* as follows: * 1 BOBBLE – see above, ch 2, 1 bobble, ch 5, 1 bobble, ch 2, 1 bobble *, ch 4, 1 dc in sc between the next 2 ch spaces, ch 4, skip 1 ch space, in next ch space crochet *-*, ch 6, 1 dc in sc between the next 2 ch spaces, ch 6, skip 1 ch space, in next ch space crochet *-*, ch 4, 1 dc in sc between the next 2 ch spaces, ch 4, skip 1 ch space, in next ch space crochet *-*, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in third ch from beg of round.
ROUND 6: Crochet sc in all ch spaces as follows: 2 sc in first ch space, 2 sc in next, 7 sc in next (= corner), then 2 sc, 4 sc, 4 sc, 2 sc, 7 sc (= corner), 2 sc, 6 sc, 6 sc, 2 sc, 7 sc (= corner), 2 sc, 4 sc, 4 sc, 2 sc, 7 sc (= corner), 2 sc and 2 sc in last ch space, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Cut the thread. Two of the sides are the same width - approx 9.5 cm / 3 3/4'', 1 side is only approx 8.5 cm / 3 1/4'' and 1 side is wider at approx 10.5 cm / 4 1/4''.

Crochet approx 18-20-22-24 squares.
Sew the squares tog to one long piece – sew edge to edge – and make sure to place all the shorter side towards the same side and all the longer sides towards the opposite side to make the piece curved.
Beg by sewing the 2 middle squares on the long piece to mid back at the top of edge piece – sew edge to edge. Continue down one side to mid back at the bottom of edge piece, then sew on the other side of the long piece from the top mid back – make sure seam is not too tight. If you need more/fewer squares adjust this before sewing on the last 2 squares mid back.

PICOT BORDER:
Crochet with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Delight round the whole bolero. Beg in the first square sewn to mid back and crochet as follows: 1 sc in second st on square, * 1 picot (= ch 3, 1 sc in first ch), skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* (= approx 11 picots along each square + 1 in transition between 2 squares), finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Crochet a similar picot border round the armholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 126-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (100)

Tanja 16.01.2019 - 19:22:

Når man har hæklet rygstykket som jo vendes ved hver række, og man går over til kantstykket, skal det så vendes hver omgang? eller hækler man kun med retsiden mod sig selv?

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 09:21:

Hei Tanja. Ja, kanten hekler du rundt, så du hekler hele tiden fra rettsiden. God fornøyelse

Carla 28.12.2017 - 01:26:

Hello! How are the squares supposed to be joined? Crochet or needle? Any joining technique recommended? Thanks

DROPS Design 29.12.2017 kl. 10:00:

Dear Carla, according to the pattern, the squares are sewn together (with a needle). Happy crocheting!

Laura 25.04.2017 - 15:37:

Buona sera. Sto per unire la striscia di quadrati al confronto del.bolero. Non capisco per l unione cucito con ago come ho fatto per unire i quadrati insieme? Prendendo l anello esterno del collo con quello esterni del quadrato? Grazie e a presto laura

DROPS Design 25.04.2017 kl. 16:05:

Buonasera Laura. Sì esatto, cuce lavorando nei fili più esterni delle maglie. Buon lavoro!

Laura 16.04.2017 - 23:12:

Buona sera. Ho iniziai il.gilet taglia s..solo.che arrivata al.bordo del dietro ho misurato e viene tropo grande...in effetti 22 maglie misurano 11 cm anziché 10. Quindi posso chiedere secondo voi con quante maglie devo iniziare al posto di 88..e quante saltate nella prima riga? Graziee e buona serata

DROPS Design 17.04.2017 kl. 09:03:

Buongiorno Laura, se il suo campione non corrisponde a quello indicato, deve rifarlo cambiando il numero di ferri: provi con mezza misura in meno. Buon lavoro!

Herdis Hundahl 16.03.2016 - 14:40:

Rygstykke: der står man skal hækle stangmasker i hver række. Men iflg. Billedet ser det ikke sådan ud. Det ser ud som om at der måske på hver tredie række skal springe over nogle eller hækle luftmasker. Der må være en fejl i opskriften.

DROPS Design 16.03.2016 kl. 15:29:

Hej Herdis, Ja på "KANTSTK" skal der hækles luftmasker, det er dem du kan se på billedet. Således står det i opskriften: 1.OMG: 1 st i første st (erstattes af 3 lm), * 1 lm, spring over 1 st, 1 st i næste st *, gentag fra *-* og slut af med 1 lm, spring over 1 st og 1 km i 3.lm i beg af omg. 2.OMG: 1 st i hver st og 1 st om hver lm. God fornøjelse!

Monique Van Den Bosch 12.04.2015 - 14:45:

Ik mis het telpatroon, klopt dat ?

DROPS Design 13.04.2015 kl. 12:56:

Hoi Monique. Er is geen telpatroon voor dit model. De werkwijze is geschreven in het patroon

Kathrin 24.01.2015 - 11:34:

Hallo,ich möchte sehr gern den Bolero nacharbeiten, allerdings soll er etwas länger werden - eher eine Weste. Funktioniert es, wenn ich entsprechend mehr Maschen für den Armausschnitt nehme?

DROPS Design 31.01.2015 kl. 10:32:

Es ist schwierig, das Modell umzuarbeiten. Grundsätzlich bestimmt das Rückenteil die Länge und die Armausschnitte, wenn Sie es länger arbeiten (und dabei die Zunahmen anpassen müssten!), werden auch die Armausschnitte tiefer, und Sie müssten beim Randstück mehr Lm über den Ausschnitten arbeiten, auch müssten Sie beim Zunehmen am Randstück mehr M zunehmen. Alles in allem sind leider zu viele Änderungen nötig, daraus ergäbe sich ein neues Modell, ich kann es ja mal als Vorschlag weiterleiten. :-)

TeBi 25.11.2014 - 10:04:

Dobry den. Existuje videonavod na hackovani ctvercu k modelu DROPS 126-8 (navod c. DE-026)? Dekuji.

DROPS Design 28.11.2014 kl. 10:02:

Dobrý den, tento konkrétní čtverec zatím na videu nemáme - ve videotéce však najdete čtverce podobné a také ukázky jejich sháčkování. Hodně zdaru!

Daniela 21.11.2014 - 22:28:

1. Werden in der Kante immer eine Reihe Stäbchen+Lm und eine Reihe nur Stäbchen in Stb. abwechselnd gehäkelt ? 2. wenn zugenommen wird, werden dann zwei Reihen hintereinander nur stäbchen gehäkelt (1. Reihe Stb+ Lm, 2.Reihe Stb in Stb, 3. Reihe stb + Zunahmen, 4. Reihe stb+Lm usw.) Danke für die Hilfe

DROPS Design 24.11.2014 kl. 23:36:

Liebe Daniela, zunächst einmal handelt es sich um Runden, nicht um R, das wird gleich korrigiert, der Rand wird ja rundum gehäkelt. Zu Frage 1: ja genau, die beiden Rd werden immer abwechselnd gehäkelt. Zu Frage 2: Sie häkeln weiterhin die beiden Rd abwechselnd und machen die Zunahmen in der 2. Rd, in der nur Stb gehäkelt werden. Danach machen Sie wieder eine Rd mit Stb + Lm.

Daniela Scheidt 04.11.2014 - 20:31:

Frage zur Kante: Für Größe L werden für das Armloch 57 Lm rechts und Links gehäkelt. in der nächsten Runde sollen 51 Stb in den Lm-Bogen gehäkelt werden. werden die Stb um die Lm gehäkelt? Ansonsten Frage ich mich welche Lm der 57 Lm nicht mit Stb gehäkelt werden. Danke

DROPS Design 05.11.2014 kl. 12:02:

Ja genau, Sie häkeln die Lm UM den Bogen aus 57 Lm. Damit sind die Lm verschiebbar und verteilen sich gleichmäßig. Es werden mehr Lm gehäkelt als Stb, damit der Armausschnitt nicht zu eng wird. Viel Spaß beim Weiterhäkeln!

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