DROPS Baby / 19 / 26

Jonas Booties by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket, pants, hat and socks with Nordic pattern, for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-026-by-BM-027-by-BM-028-by-BM-029-by
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g color no 02, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 11, ice blue
50 g for all sizes color no 12, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) size 2 mm - for rib.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON, no 503: 6-6-6 (7-7) pcs..
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PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 02, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 11, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm)size 2 mm – for rib.
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HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: approx 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm.

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 11, ice blue
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 02, off-white
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 12, light blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm) size 2 mm – for rib.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 02, off-white.
50 g for all sizes color no 11, ice blue.
50 g for all sizes color no 12, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2 mm – for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.5. The entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
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JACKET:

BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 153-177-201 (223-245) sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2 mm with ice blue. Work 1 row rib, K1/P1 with K1 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see above - each side towards mid front (as seen from RS). Change to off-white and continue in rib. When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-30-36 (40-44) sts evenly = 129-147-165 (183-201) sts. Insert a marker 33-37-42 (46-51) sts in from each side = 63-73-81 (91-99) sts between markers on back piece. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side towards mid front – NOTE: work last but one st on needle like first st in M.1 to make pattern identical both sides of mid front. After M.1 continue in M.2 with 1 edge st in garter st each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures approx 15-17-20 (23-26) cm - adjust to at least 2 rows after a row with dots in pattern - work M.3 (remember to work the last but one st on needle like first st in M.3 to make pattern identical both sides of mid front). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-27) cm divide piece by markers for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 63-73-81 (91-99) sts. Cast on 1 new st each side (= edge st for seam) = 65-75-83 (93-101) sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter st each side. After M.3 work M.4 with 1 edge st in garter st each side – NOTE: the arrow in M.4 marks the middle of back piece, count sts towards the side from here to see where to beg in M.4. After M.4 complete piece in ice blue. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-41) cm cast off the middle 23-25-27 (27-29) sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 sts on neckline on next row = 19-23-26 (31-34) sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 28-30-34 (38-42) cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-37-42 (46-51) sts. Cast on 1 new st towards armhole (= edge st for seam) = 34-38-43 (47-52) sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter st each side. After M.3 work M.4 with 1 edge st in garter st each side – NOTE: adjust the pattern to make it look neat towards mid front, there should be 1 st in light blue mid front after edge st and before 1 off-white square or cross. After M.4 complete piece in ice blue.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-29 (33-36) cm slip 9-9-10 (11-12) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2-2-2 (1-1) times and 1 st 2-2-3 (3-4) times = 19-23-26 (31-34) sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 28-30-34 (38-42) cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 48-50-56 (58-64) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with ice blue. Work 1 round rib, K1/P1, change to off-white and continue in rib. When piece measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-13-13 (15-15) sts evenly = 37-37-43 (43-49) sts.
READ THE REST OF SLEEVE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work M.1 – adjust to the middle, see arrow in diagram. After M.1 continue in M.2 (adjust to the middle, see arrow) until piece measures approx 16-16-18 (23-26) cm – adjust to at least 2 rows after 1 row with dots in pattern. Now work M.5 (adjust to the middle, see arrow) – if necessary complete piece in ice blue after M.5 to reach final measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-6-6 (7-7) cm inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat the inc a total of 11-13-13 (15-15) times as follows: SIZE 1/3 MONTHS + 12/18 MONTHS + 2 YEARS: on every 4th round, SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: on every 3rd round, SIZE 3/4 YEARS: on every 5th round = 59-63-69 (73-79) sts – incorporate inc sts in pattern as you go along. When piece measures approx 19-19-21 (26-29) cm (M.5 is now finished and there may be a few rounds of ice blue) cast off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Pick up approx 75-83-93 (105-115) sts (divisible by 2 + 1 st) along left front piece on needle size 2 mm with off-white. Work rib, K1/P1 with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st each side (as seen from RS). When front band measures 2 cm cast off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT BAND:
Like left front band but after 1 cm make 5-5-5 (6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed – place bottom buttonhole approx 1.5 cm from bottom edge and the top one approx 4 cm from neckline (the last buttonhole is made on neckline). 1 BUTTONHOLE = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row.

NECKLINE:
Pick up from RS approx 87 to 117 sts round neckline - includes sts on stitch holders at front and also pick up on front bands (no of sts divisible by 2 + 1 st) on circular needle size 2 mm with off-white. Work rib, K1/P1 with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st each side towards mid front (as seen from RS). AT THE SAME TIME after 1 cm make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. When neck measures 2 cm, change to ice blue, work 1 row rib and cast off with K over K and P over P.
Set in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.
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PANTS:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. The entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
DECREASING TIP:
Beg 2 sts before marker and work sts as follows: K2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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PANTS:
Worked in the round from the waist down. Cast on 142-150-160 (166-172) sts on circular needle size 2 mm with ice blue – beg of round = mid back. Work 1 round rib, K1/P1, change to off-white and continue in rib. When rib measures 4 cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-18-22 (22-22) sts evenly = 126-132-138 (144-150) sts.
ELEVATION MID BACK: Now continue in M.2 at the same time work elevation mid back as follows: work 10-11-11 (12-12) sts from beg of round, turn piece (to avoid a hole slip first st as if to K and tighten thread). Work 20-22-22 (24-24) sts and turn piece. Work 30-33-33 (36-36) sts and turn piece. Work 40-44-44 (48-48) sts and turn piece. Continue like this by working a further 10-11-11 (12-12) sts before each turn another 8 times (= 12 shortened rows in total). Now continue in M.2 in the round on all sts.
INC: When piece measures 13-16-17 (18-19) cm from the waist (measured mid front) insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 63-66-69 (72-75) sts (to mark mid front and mid back). Now inc 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 inc sts per round) on every 3rd round a total of 6 times = 150-156-162 (168-174) sts. After the last inc piece measures approx 18-21-22 (23-24) cm from the waist (measured mid front).

LEG:
Work 75-78-81 (84-87) sts - beg mid back and slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. Continue in the round with M.2 as before - insert a marker on the inside of leg = beg of round. Now dec 1 st each side of marker – see DECREASING TIP - a total of 14-13-12 (11-10) times as follows: SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: on every 2nd and 3rd round alternately, SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately, SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: on every 4th and 5th round alternately, SIZE 2 YEARS: on every 6th and 7th round alternately and SIZE 3/4 YEARS: on every 9th and 10th round alternately = 47-52-57 (62-67) sts. When piece measures approx 27-33-36 (42-49) cm from the waist - adjust to after 2 rounds after a round with dots in pattern - work M.1 – beg at the top of diagram and see arrow marking the middle of round (= outside of leg). After M.1 change to off-white and double pointed needles size 2 mm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 11-12-13 (16-17) sts evenly = 58-64-70 (78-84) sts. Continue in rib, K1/P1 until piece measures 36-42-46 (52-59) cm from the waist (rib now measures approx 5-5-6 (6-6) cm), change to ice blue, work 1 round rib and cast off loosely in rib.
Knit the other leg in the same way.
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HAT:

PATTERN:
See diagram M.7. The entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

Worked in the round first, from bottom edge towards the top, and then completed back and forth on needle. Round beg mid back.

LOOSELY cast on 220-244-256 (280-288) sts on circular needle size 2 mm with off-white and work 1 round rib K1/P1. Change to ice blue and continue in rib. When rib measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 1 round stocking st with ice blue, AT THE SAME TIME dec 52-52-64 (64-72) sts evenly = 168-192-192 (216-216) sts. Now work M.7. After M.7 there are 154-176-176 (198-198) sts on needle, continue in the round in ice blue stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd round after M.7 dec 14-16-16 (18-18) sts evenly – i.e. K tog every 10th and 11 th st, BUT make sure dec sit over dec from last round in M.7. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4 times – NOTE: for every dec work 1 less stocking st between each dec on round = 98-112-112 (126-126) sts on needle and piece measures approx 10-10-10 (11-11) cm. Work 2 rounds stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME on second round dec 8-18-16 (26-22) sts evenly = 90-94-96 (100-104) sts. Change to circular needle size 2 mm and work rib, K1/P1, until rib measures 2.5-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm. Now continue back and forth on needle and work next ROW from mid back as follows: work rib as before on the first 35-36-37 (38-39) sts, slip the next 21-23-23 (25-27) sts on a stitch holder (without working the sts) = mid front. Change back to needle size 2.5 mm, turn piece and P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 26-32-34 (44-50) sts evenly = 95-103-107 (119-127) sts on needle.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work next row as follows from RS:
1 edge st in garter st, * K1/P3 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain and finish with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue in rib like this back and forth on needle. When piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm slip the middle 31-31-35 (39-39) sts on a stitch holder for the middle piece of hat.
K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS on the outermost 32-36-36 (40-44) sts on one side of piece, then cast off in K sts from WS.
Repeat on the other side of piece.
Slip the 31-31-35 (39-39) sts from stitch holder back on needle and continue in rib with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st each side (as seen from RS) until middle piece measures 11-12-12 (14-15) cm from where sts were slipped on stitch holder. Work 2 rows garter st and cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew middle piece to each side piece with neat sts inside 1 edge st each side.
RIB BORDER ROUND FRONT OPENING: Pick up approx 120 to 160 sts (divisible by 2) round the opening (includes sts from stitch holder at front) on circular needle size 2 mm with ice blue. Work rib, K1/P1, in the round until rib measures 4 cm, cast off LOOSELY with K over K and P over P. Fold rib double towards WS and fasten with neat sts.
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SOCKS:

DECREASING TIP (applies to mid back on leg):
Dec 1 st each side of the 3 middle sts mid back (= K1 + P1 + K1) by P2 tog.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.6. The pattern is worked in stocking st.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
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SOCK:
Cast on 58-66-72 (78-82) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with off-white. Work 1 round rib, K1/P1, change to ice blue and continue in rib. When piece measures 2-3-4 (5-6) cm dec 2 sts mid back – see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 2 cm a total of 5 times = 48-56-62 (68-72) sts. When rib measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 1 round stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-10-16 (16-20) sts evenly = 42-46-46 (52-52) sts. Work 1 round stocking st on all sts. Now slip the first 16-17-17 (19-19) sts and the last 16-17-17 (19-19) sts on round on separate stitch holders = 10-12-12 (14-14) sts left on needle for middle piece. Work 4-5-5.5 (7-8) cm stocking st on these sts. Now slip sts from stitch holders back on needle, AT THE SAME TIME pick up 11-13-15 (18-22) sts each side of middle piece = 64-72-76 (88-96) sts. Cut the thread and now beg round mid back. Work 1-2-4 (5-7) rounds stocking st in the round on all sts with ice blue. Continue in M.6 - NOTE: for size 12/18 months there will be 2 identical repeats of M.6 mid back. After M.6 work 1 round stocking st with ice blue, then P 1 round on all sts and now cast off all sts except the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts from middle piece. Continue in GARTER ST - see above - back and forth on these sts for sole. When sole measures 10-11-12 (14-16) cm cast off. Sew sole to the sock with neat sts.





This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.09.2010
BODY PIECE:... When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-30-36 (40-44) sts evenly = 129-147-165 (183-201) sts.

Diagram

= off-white
= ice blue
= light blue
= K2 tog with ice blue


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Renata Popelářová 22.10.2018 - 12:37:

V českém návodu na ponožky vypadla dost podstatná věta. Musela jsem se podívat na anglickou verzi. "After M.6 work 1 round stocking st with ice blue, then P 1 round on all sts and now cast off all sts except the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts from middle piece. " Tohle v českém návodu chybí.

Donder 12.02.2014 - 11:50:

Hallo, in der deutschen Anleitung hat sich ein Fehler eingeschlichen. Da steht :Nach 2-3-4 (5-6) cm hinten in der Mitte 2 M. abk. Abketten? Ich denke das sollte Abnehmen heißen. LG

Selam 24.08.2013 - 02:04:

Thanks a lot for the help:-) I have another question? Is there a video on how Sew sole to the sock with neat sts? Thanks in advance

DROPS Design 26.08.2013 kl. 16:08:

Dear Selam, we do not have such a video yet but your request have been forwarded to our team. You may request some more help from the store where you bought your yarn. Happy knitting!

Selam 20.08.2013 - 22:41:

Hi, I am working on the socks and not sure how to move a head at this point? Work 1 round stocking st on all sts. Now slip the first 16-17-17 (19-19) sts and the last 16-17-17 (19-19) sts on round on separate stitch holders = 10-12-12 (14-14) sts left on needle for middle piece. when I put the beg and the end sts on holders do I cut of the working yarn to continue working in the middle section? or please explain how? thanks

DROPS Design 21.08.2013 kl. 13:02:

Dear Selam, you can either cut the thread and put sts on a st holder, or work the first 16-17-19 sts first, put them on a st holder and continue on stated number of sts. Happy knitting!

Drops Design 26.09.2011 - 15:59:

Du er jo nødt til at have et lige antal masker når du strikker rib. Og det gør jo ingenting når du strikker rundt, de 55 m er da fordelt hele vejen rundt, dem behøver du ikke dele op i 2 dele.

Stine 24.09.2011 - 10:44:

På sokkerne skal man slå et lige antal masker op. Så skal man finde de 3 miderste masker og tage ud på hver side af dem. Ved f.eks 58 masker bliver det 58-3=55. Det vil sige på den ene side af de tre er der 28 m og på den anden side 27 masker...hvorfor det??

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