DROPS Highlander
90% Wool, 10% Nylon
Discontinued
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DROPS 79-1

DROPS Poncho, Hat and Felted Purse

DROPS 79-1
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Poncho:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements (circumference at side points): 184-196-210-220-234 cm

Materials: DROPS HIGHLANDER
90% wool, 10% nylon/50 g./80 m
(alternative SNOW from Garnstudio)
400-450-500-550-600 gr nr 13, brown heather
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 01, beige

DROPS 8 mm and 9 mm Circular needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct tension.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

PONCHO:

Tension: 9 sts x 14 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - *.

Increasing tips: All increases are made from wrong side rows. Inc by making a yo at each side of center st. On the next row twist the yo when purling so that there will not be a hole.

Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side and is worked entirely in stockinette st, with yo. Arrows indicate the starting points for different sizes.

Note: The poncho is knit from the collar down in 2 pieces and sewn together.

Front: Cast on 29 sts on smaller circular needles with brown heather. Knit rib back and forth on needles for 25 cm - start and end with K 1 (edge st) and K 3. Change to larger circular needles and knit 1 row stockinette st, increasing 10 sts evenly distributed on the row = 39 sts. Knit the next row as follows: K 1 (edge st), * K 2 tog, yo *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 1 and K 1 (edge st). Put a marker in the center st, continue with stockinette st. Then inc 1 st at each side of center st every other row – see Increasing tips.
When there are 87-95-103-111-119 sts on needles knit the next row as follows: K 1 (edge st), Pattern 1A – start at appropriate arrow on the chart (= 42-46-50-54-58 sts), 1 center st, Pattern 1B – start at appropriate arrow on the chart (= 42-46-50-54-58 sts) and K 1 (edge st). Continue pattern and inc every other row. When Pattern 1 is complete there are 115-123-131-139-147 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st – continue to inc every other row. Then bind off all sts. Note: at points knit 2 sts in 1 st at each side of center st at the same time as you bind off in order to keep the points from rolling.. The piece measures approx. 59-64-70-76-82 cm at center front from cast on row to point.

Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front, but the collar ribbing should start and end with K 1 (edge st) and P 3.

Assembly: Sew side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. The top 15 cm of the collar should be sewn together on the right side so that the seam does not show when the collar folds out.
Fringe tufts: Fasten 1 fringe tuft to lower edge at points of center front and center back and then fastens fringe tufts approx. 10 cm apart around lower edge of poncho. 1 fringe tuft = cut 10 strands 25 cm long of brown heather. Fold in half and pull loop through lower edge of poncho, pull ends through loop.
Twisted cord: cut 2 strands 3 meters long in beige. Twist together until tight – fold in half and let twist up on itself, then make a knot at each end. Thread cord in holes around the neck - start at center front.
Make 2 tufts with 8 strands 20 cm long in beige - see drawing on page 3 for how to attach. Attach 1 tuft to each end of cord.

HAT:

Sizes: S/M - M/L

Materials: DROPS HIGHLANDER
90% wool, 10% nylon/50 g./80 m./87 yards
100-100 gr nr 12,beige multicolor
and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
50-50 gr nr 02, brown

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 10 sts x 16 rows with 1 strand Highlander + 1 strand Vivaldi in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Earflap: Cast on 3-4 sts with 1 strand Highlander + 1 strand Vivaldi. Knit garter st for 1 row then inc 1 st at each side on the next row and every 4 rows a total of 5 times = 13-14 sts - inc by making a yo inside of 1 st at each side. On the next row, twist the yo when knitting so that there will not be a hole. Knit garter st until the piece measures 8-9 cm, put sts on a st holder and knit a second earflap.

Hat: Knit across one earflap on needles, cast on 8-9 new sts on needle (= back) and knit in the other earflap on the same needle = 34-37 sts. Continue in garter st, increasing 1 st at each side (on earflaps) every other row 2 times = 38-41 sts. Then cast on 12-14 new sts between earflaps for the front = 50-55 sts. Cut yarn and start at center back of hat – knit in the round on double-pointed needles – measure the work from here.
Knit 14 rows garter st, then continue in stockinette st to finished measurements. When the piece measures 16 cm put 5 markers in work with 10-11 sts between each marker. Now dec on right side of all markers (by K 2 tog) every other row 9-10 times = 5 sts. Cut yarn, pull through the remaining sts and fasten tightly. Hat measures approx. 27-28 cm at center front.

PURSE:

Finished measurements:
Width: 24 cm [9.5"]
Height: 33 cm [13"]

Materials: DROPS HIGHLANDER
90% wool, 10% nylon/50 g./80 m./87 yards
200 gr nr 12, beige multicolor
and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
50 gr nr 02, brown

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge:
Before felting: 10 sts x 16 rows with 1 strand Highlander + 1 strand Vivaldi in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.
After felting: approx. 15 sts x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Purse: Cast on 40 sts with 1 strand Highlander + 1 strand Vivaldi. Knit 2 rows garter st, then knit stockinette st until the piece measures 110 cm, knit 2 rows garter st, bind off. Fold the purse in half and sew sides.
Shoulder straps: Cut 15 strands of yarn 210 cm long of each yarn (= 30 strands). Make a knot at one end, divide into 3 bundles of 10 strands each and braid loosely, make a knot at other end. Sew ends at each side of the purse, approx. 5 cm from edge on the inside.
Tassels: Make 2 tassels with 14 strands 60 cm long of each yarn (= 28 strands) - see illustration on page 3 of Drops 79. Sew one tassel to each lower edge corner of the purse.

Felting: Put the purse in the washing machine with some detergent (no enzymes or bleach). Wash in warm water on regular cycle. When cycle is complete, shape the purse to correct measurements while still wet. Fold the top 3 cm out to right side.
For future washing, treat as any wool garment.

AFTER FELTING:
If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm - NOTE: Do not use a short program.
If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first.
Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment.

Diagram

	= brown heather
	= beige
	= yo

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (24)

Kristin wrote:

Kan jeg Tove ponchoen? Hvor mye må jeg evnt legge til av masker. Litt nybegynner og toving fungerer perfekt

18.12.2022 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristin, du er nødt til at prøve dig frem, prøv eventuelt at tove en prøvelap og se hvor meget den krymper....

20.12.2022 - 08:41

Heather Hess wrote:

I am trying to get a pattern but I keep getting It's time to vote oerlaid on the pattern so i can't see it all - how can I get one of your patterns - I already voted twice! Heather Hess

10.01.2021 - 20:01

Dear Mrs Hess, just close this small window "It's time to vote" by clicking on the small cross at the bottom corner on the right side. Happy knitting!

11.01.2021 - 10:04

Evelyne Zrihen wrote:

Bonjour, je ne suis pas sûre de bien comprendre le début : commencer et terminer par 1 m end ( m lis) et 3 m end ? merci pour vos éclaircissements, Eve

08.01.2021 - 18:10

Bonjour Mme Zrihen, vous tricotez ainsi: 1 maille lis au point mousse, côtes *3 mailles endroit, 3 mailles envers*, répétez les côtes ainsi jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4 mailles, terminez par 3 mailles endroit et 1 maille lis au point mousse. Bon tricot!

11.01.2021 - 07:12

Ruth Rout wrote:

What yarn can I use instead of the discontinued Highlander yarn. I need something thick that is not itchy as I have Alopecia, and need a full bodied hat to give the impression I have hair under the hat.

22.12.2020 - 01:05

Hi Ruth, Highlander was a yarn from group E. We have 2 other yarns in the same group (with the same thickness), Drops Snow and Drops Andes. If you would like an even thicker yarn there is another selection in Group F. You can find the different yarn groups if you click on Yarn at the top of the page and choose Yarn groups. Happy crafting!

22.12.2020 - 06:45

Eve wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais réaliser ce poncho, mais j'aurais besoin de votre aide pour la quantité de laine dont j'ai besoin; j'aimerais le réaliser en taille M, sur un fond écru avec les motifs brun (donc en inversé par rapport au modèle proposé); j'aimerais que la laine soit grosse, au moins aiguilles 8 ou 9; Pouvez-vous me dire ce que je dois prendre comme quantité ? Merci bcp, Evelyne

23.11.2020 - 12:04

Bonjour Eve, essayez notre convertisseur, vous pourrez voir ainsi les alternatives proposées ainsi que la quantité correspondante - retrouvez ici toutes les informations utiles sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

23.11.2020 - 12:20

Ragnhild Møgedal wrote:

Hei Vet dere om lengden på ponchoen er målt med eller uten frynser?

08.07.2020 - 22:12

Hej Ragnhild. Det ska vara utan frynser ser det ut som. Mvh DROPS Design

09.07.2020 - 08:29

Marie Couture wrote:

Poncho Drops en Highlander. DROPS 79-1 Is there a collar? I don't see the explanation for the collar in the pattern but is seems to have one on the picture. Thank you for your help.

12.11.2017 - 20:51

Dear Marie, what you see as a collar is actually explained in the pattern, which says " Knit rib back and forth on needles for 25 cm - start and end with K 1 (edge st) and K 3". It is not a separate collar, rather the body is starting with a straight funnel. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

12.11.2017 - 21:39

Angela wrote:

What length circular needles are needed for this pattern? Since the circumference is almost 80", do I need an 80" circular needle? I've never seen any that long and am otherwise unsure how to do this project. Please advise.

21.01.2017 - 03:47

Dear Angela, poncho is worked back and forth on circular needle on 2 parts sewn tog at the end. You can use a 80 cm circular needle (= approx. 31.5", not 80" needle). Happy knitting!

23.01.2017 - 09:32

ROLAND wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse.Encore une précision: En suivant les diagrammes, les 28 augmentations centrales interrompent le motif commencé de chaque coté, comment y remédier? Merci de votre aide.

20.12.2016 - 16:37

Bonjour Mme Rolland, les augmentations au milieu de l'ouvrage figurent dans le diagramme et se tricotent comme indiqué dans le diagramme au milieu, on n'augmente pas sur les côtés. On tricote 1 m lis, M.1A en commençant par la flèche, on augmente à la fin de M1A tous les 2 rangs, puis 1 m centrale, et on tricote M.1 B en commençant en bas à droite par l'augmentation tous les 2 rangs et on termine par la flèche, les côtés restent "droits" et vont se suivre en ligne droite. Bon tricot!

21.12.2016 - 09:16

Dans le diagramme M1A, on commence par la flèche de la taille mais pour le diagramme M1B, si comme expliqué ,on commence par la flèche, le jeté se retrouve en fin de travail. Dois je continuer le M1B par la M centrale et le jeté? Merci pour votre réponse

18.12.2016 - 14:16

Bonjour Mme Rolland, vous commencez M1A par la flèche et terminez M1B à la flèche (= même nombre de mailles pour la taille pour un motif symétrique). Bon tricot!

19.12.2016 - 09:53