DROPS / 116 / 8

DROPS 116-8 by DROPS Design

DROPS gloves with pattern in ”Karisma”.

Size: S - M/L
Materials: DROPS KARISMA
100 g for both sizes colour no 39, maroon
100 g for both sizes colour no 01, off-white
50 g for both sizes colour no 40, lavender

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.7. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. The entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
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LEFT GLOVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 54-54 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with maroon. K 1 round and work 4 rounds rib K1/ P1. Now continue in M.1 (= 6 sts) on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round of M.1 inc 1 st = 55-55 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in M.2 (= 11 sts) on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round of M.2 adjust no of sts to 52-56. Continue in M.3 (= 52-56 sts), the first 3 sts and the middle 3 sts are worked in both sizes, see diagram for the remainder of pattern for the 2 sizes. When you reach the 3 black squares in diagram (row 4 in M.3) continue in M.4 on these 3 squares/sts, continue in M.3 on remaining sts. Inc in M.4 with 1 YO inside 1 st each side, on next round K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. After 5 inc (= 10 inc sts and 13 sts in thumb gusset) slip the 13 thumb sts on a stitch holder. Cast on 3 new sts behind sts on stitch holder = 52-56 sts. Continue in M.3. When M.3 is completed slip the first 21-23 sts on upper hand on a stitch holder, keep the next 14-14 sts on needle and slip the last 17-19 sts from palm of hand on another stitch holder.

LITTLE FINGER: = 14-14 sts, Cast on 6-8 new sts towards sts on stitch holder = 20-22 sts. Work M.5 on 13 sts at the top of finger. NOTE! Beg round so that the 3 sts at the end of M.5 sit over the 3 sts in the middle of M.3, and continue pattern from under hand on the other side of finger (= 7-9 sts). Dec as follows (each side of the off-white st): Before the off-white st: K2 tog, after the off-white st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Continue dec until there are 8-10 sts left on needle, cut the threads, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

RING FINGER: Slip 6-6 sts from each stitch holder back on needle, pick up 4-5 sts towards little finger and cast on 4-5 new sts towards sts on stitch holders = 20-22 sts.
Work M.6 on 11 sts at the top of finger. NOTE! Make sure that sts from hand sit in the middle of M.6 and continue pattern from under hand on the other side of finger (= 9-11 sts). Dec as follows (each side of the off-white st): Before the off-white st: K2 tog, after the off-white st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Continue dec until there are 8-10 sts left on needle, cut the threads, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

MIDDLE FINGER: Slip 6-7 sts from each stitch holder back on needle, pick up 4-4 sts towards ring finger and cast on 4-4 new sts towards sts on stitch holder = 20-22 sts.
Work M.6 on 11 sts at the top of finger. NOTE! Make sure that sts from hand sit in the middle of M.6 and continue pattern from under hand on the other side of finger (= 9-11 sts). Dec as follows (each side of the off-white st): Before the off-white st: K2 tog, after the off-white st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Continue dec until there are 8-10 sts left on needle, cut the threads, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

INDEX FINGER: Slip the remaining 14-16 sts from stitch holders back on needle, pick up 6-6 sts towards middle finger = 20-22 sts.
Work M.7 on 13 sts at the top of finger. NOTE! M.7 beg in the first st from sts on upper hand, and continue pattern from under hand on the other side of finger. Dec as follows (each side of the off-white st): Before the off-white st: K2 tog, after the off-white st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Continue dec until there are 8-10 sts left on needle, cut the threads, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

THUMB: Slip the 13 thumb sts back on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Pick up 9 sts behind thumb = 22 sts. Continue in M.4. Dec as follows (each side of the off-white st): Before the off-white st: K2 tog, after the off-white st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. Continue dec until there are 10 sts left on needle, cut the threads, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

RIGHT GLOVE: Cast on and work like left glove, but mirrored, i.e. work thumb gusset on the 3 black squares in diagram in st 32, 33 and 34 for size S and in st 35, 36 and 37 for size M/L from the right side of diagram, and use stitch holders for fingers at the opposite side. Slip sts on stitch holders for fingers as follows: Keep the first 8-8 and the last 6-6 sts on needle, slip the next 21-23 sts on a stitch holder (= upper hand) and slip the next 17-19 sts on another stitch holder (= palm of hand).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.08.2009
THUMB: Slip the 13 thumb sts back on double pointed needles size 3 mm.
Updated online: 18.08.2009
INDEX FINGER: Slip the remaining 14-16 sts from stitch holders back on needle, pick up 6-6 sts towards middle finger = 20-22 sts.

Diagram

= off-white
= maroon
= lavender
= sts for thumb gusset


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 116-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

Joya 06.08.2019 - 15:39:

The three black boxes on M3 are very confusing. It should continue up surely for the M4 to slow in and not just for one line? Thanks for your help in advance.

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 12:00:

Dear Joya, when you come to the 3 black boxes in M.3, work first row in M.4 over these 3 stitches. See also our video. Happy knitting!

Lydia 20.01.2018 - 18:47:

Having trouble with starting the fingers for the right hand. I do not undetstand the last paragraph on the pattern. I am reading the pattern from the left now for the right hand. Do i start with the index finger for the right hand or the little finger?

DROPS Design 22.01.2018 kl. 09:28:

Dear Lydia, diagram is worked the same way for both hands, just sts for thumb will be different on both hands, ie for left hand as in diagram and for right hand, work thumb in the 32nd to 34th st in size S/M and 35th to 37th in size M/L. Happy knitting!

Rebecca Reid 28.11.2016 - 15:02:

What are the sizes for these gloves? The pattern says S-M/L but what are the dimensions for these sizes?

DROPS Design 28.11.2016 kl. 15:22:

Dear Mrs Reid, with a tension of 23 sts = 10 cm gloves will be approx. 22-24 cm around hand. Happy knitting!

Christel Peters 25.06.2016 - 08:40:

Guten Tag. Ich habe ein Problem mit dem Daumenkeil. Laut Anleitung die gekennzeichneten Maschen mit M4 stricken, den Rest wieder mit M3. Heißt dass, die 3 Maschen müssen auf eine extra Nadel? Wie stricke ich denn sonst in der nächsten Runde M3 weiter? Danke für die Hilfe, Christel

DROPS Design 06.07.2016 kl. 10:03:

Hallo Christel, der Daumenkeil wird nicht auf eine extra Nadel genommen (erst wenn die Daumenmaschen stillgelegt werden). Sie stricken einfach über die Maschen des Daumenkeils M4 und über die anderen Maschen M3.

Mariola 28.11.2014 - 21:22:

Can I please to translate the pattent to polish language?

Lorinda Troppmann 25.03.2014 - 23:37:

It's my first time knitting gloves, and I'm confused on where to decrease on the fingers if I made the smaller size. Decrease two...on back of finger?? or one on each side, wich would make the pattern non symmetrical

DROPS Design 26.03.2014 kl. 09:58:

Dear Mrs Trooppmann, you dec 1 st each side of finger, ie a total of 4 sts per dec round: K2 tog before the st in off-white and slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso before the st in off-white. Happy knitting!

Catherine 13.01.2014 - 21:06:

Bonjour j'ai noté une erreur dans la traduction française. Pour le pouce il faut reprendre les 13 m en attente , et relever 9 mailles on a alors 22m (ce qui correspond au diagramme)M4

DROPS Design 14.01.2014 kl. 10:43:

Bonjour Catherine et merci, les explications du pouce ont été corrigées. Bon tricot!

Siw-Elisabeth 24.11.2013 - 11:28:

Jeg er ganske fersk på strikking og lurer på hvor mange masker skal jeg legge opp på hver pinne når jeg begynner?

DROPS Design 26.11.2013 kl. 15:36:

Hei Siw-Elisabeth. Du skal legge op totalt 54 m. Dem fordeler du lige over 3 eller 4 pinde (hvad du selv synes er bedst). Dvs, du kan fordele med 18 m over 3 pinde eller 13-14 m over 4 pinde. Du bestemmer selv :-) God fornöjelse.

DROPS Design 06.01.2010 - 13:02:

Nei de 3 "svarte" masker strikkes "hvit, gammelrosa, hvit". Når du har kommet opp til 13. rad i M.4 har du 13 masker på pinnen. Når du strikker tommelen legger du opp masker og strikker over hele M.4

May-tove Mauseth 06.01.2010 - 11:45:

Hei! Kjempelekker vott, men sliter med starten på tommelen. Skal man starte med økningen på 1 omg. når man begynner med M4. Da blir det jo ikke 1 rød maske i midten men 3. Man skal ha 13 msk til slutt som skal settes på en tråd. Jeg får bare 12. Ser også ut til at M4 havner "utenfor" votten. Skal den det? Tusen takk for hjelpen. Håper jeg har fått forklart meg godt nok. Hilsen May-Tove

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