DROPS Extra / 0-1460

Christmas Claps by DROPS Design

Knitted mittens with Nordic pattern for Christmas in DROPS Karisma. Theme: Christmas.

  • Christmas Claps / DROPS Extra 0-1460 - Knitted mittens with Nordic pattern for Christmas in DROPS Karisma. Theme: Christmas.
  • Christmas Claps / DROPS Extra 0-1460 - Knitted mittens with Nordic pattern for Christmas in DROPS Karisma. Theme: Christmas.
  • Christmas Claps / DROPS Extra 0-1460 - Knitted mittens with Nordic pattern for Christmas in DROPS Karisma. Theme: Christmas.
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-879
Yarn group B
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SIZES: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 21-23 cm. Length: approx. 24-24 cm with the rib folded up.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50 g colour 01, off white
100-100 g colour 18, red (background colour)
or use colour 73 petrol, 55 light beige brown, 52 dark mustard, 45 light olive.

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.x. Choose diagrams for your size.
Diagram A.x shows where the thumb is positioned on the right mitten. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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MITTENS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked from the bottom up, increasing for the thumb. When these increases are finished, the thumb-stitches are placed on a thread before finishing the hand. The thumb is worked to finish.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 48-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and the background colour. Work rib in the round with knit 2, purl 2, for 12 cm. Work 1 round in stocking stitch where you increase 0-4 stitches evenly spaced = 48-52 stitches.

Work diagram A.1 – when you have worked as far as the black squares in the diagram, work A.2 over these 3 stitches. Continue working according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 (you increase stitches in A.2). After the last round in A.2 there are 11 stitches in A.2 – place these stitches on a thread. On the next round cast on 3 stitches behind the stitches on the thread = 48-52 stitches on the round. Continue working A.1 over all stitches. When the diagram has been completed there are 8 stitches left on the round. Cut the strand, tack it through the stitches and fasten well.

THUMB:
Place the 11 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 3 mm and start the round by knitting up 9 stitches at the back of the thumb (pick up 2 stitches on each side and 5 stitches in the 3 cast-on stitches) = 20 stitches. Work diagram A.3. When the diagram has been completed there are 4 stitches left on the round. Cut the strand, tack it through the stitches and fasten well.

RIGHT MITTEN: Work as the left, but the thumb is worked on the opposite side – see diagram A.x which shows where the thumb is positioned in the pattern.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 05.12.2019
New chart:
A.2: row 3,6 and 7.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = background colour
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with background colour.
symbols = slip 1 stitch in off-white as if to knit, knit 1 with off-white and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
symbols = knit 2 together with off white.
symbols = slip 1 stitch in off-white as if to knit, knit 2 together with off-white and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches.
diagram
diagram
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signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1460) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Rikke 14.04.2021 - 13:27:

Hei! Har akkurat begynt å strikke disse vottene, men ikke det garnet som står i oppskriften siden strikkebutikken ikke hadde det inne. De blir alt for store merker jeg, så lurer på hvordan det er å tove når det er så mye mønster?

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2021 kl. 15:06:

Hej Rikke, det kommer an på hvilket garn du har købt om det går at tove... Eller så klikker du på "bestill" og køber det rigtige garn direkte fra opskriften :)

country flag Nieves Hidalgo 12.03.2021 - 22:35:

Buenas noches, mi pregunta es sobre las tallas de las manoplas. Veo que hay diferencia en las circunferencia ¿pero no la hay en la longitud? Muchas gracias por el consejo y por la calidad de las lanas.

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2021 kl. 20:21:

Hola Nieves, en principio el largo es igual, pero el tamaño es aproximado; para ajustar el largo a su mano se puede probar y trabajar filas de más o de menos cuando sea necesario.

country flag Caroline 13.02.2021 - 08:25:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas à quoi correspond la circonférence. Comment dois-je mesurer ma main pour choisir la bonne taille ? Le tour de la main sans le pouce ? Le tour de la main avec le pouce ? Si c'est le cas, main à plat ou pouce replié dans la paume ? Merci !

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 07:26:

Bonjour Caroline, c'est la circonférence de la main sans le pouce - juste après le pouce. Bon tricot!

country flag Annika 06.01.2021 - 15:32:

Mina första mönstrade vantar och jag är så stolt, väldigt roligt och ganska lätt att följa beskrivningen. Om adjö/rader i mönsterdiagrammet hade varit numrerade (alltså både vertikalt och horisontellt) hade det underlättat 😊

country flag Ane 07.12.2020 - 15:35:

Har begynt med en vott i pinnestr 3,5 og viking sportsragg. Syns de blir veldig stramme? Sjekket strikkefasthet og den stemmer...

user icon DROPS Design 09.12.2020 kl. 15:12:

Hei Ane. Disse vottene er strikket i DROPS Karisma, viking sportsragg er ikke et garn fra oss og kan ikke uttale meg om hvordan den kvaliteten blir. Disse vottene skal strikkes litt stramt, slik at det blir tette og varme. mvh DROPS design

country flag Ane 07.12.2020 - 15:33:

Har begynt med en vott i pinnestr 3,5 og viking sportsragg. Syns de blir veldig stramme? Sjekket strikkefasthet og den stemmer...

country flag Sofia 17.11.2020 - 13:42:

When it says 48-48 does that mean 48 on one stick and 48 on the other or am i supposed to use all four sticks?

user icon DROPS Design 17.11.2020 kl. 13:54:

Hi Sofia. 48-48 is the numer of stiches you cast on for the different sizes (S/M – L/XL). So if you do the smaller size you always follow the first number throughout the pattern. You cast on 48 stiches in total (=12 on each needle). Happy knitting!

country flag Henny 04.11.2020 - 19:38:

Wat versta je onder de achtergrond kleur

user icon DROPS Design 05.11.2020 kl. 09:11:

Dag Henny,

Dat achtergrond is de basiskleur, dus geel, blauw, groen, etc. Met wit wordt het patroontje gebreid.

country flag Wibke 02.11.2020 - 14:48:

Hallo Liebes Drops Team, tolles Muster, probiere es gerade aus. Bitte auch das komplette A1 Muster für den rechten Handschuh (beide Größen) einstellen, das vereinfacht die Sache für "Norweger-Anfänger" ungemein :-). Vielen Dank und herzliche Grüße

country flag Lise Kilganon 24.09.2020 - 18:24:

Excusez moi, je ne suis pas certaine d avoir bien envoyer ma question,,,,,que veux dire faire 3 mailles au dessus pour le gousset et faire A2,,, merci

user icon DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 08:52:

Bonjour Mme Kilganon, quand vous arrivez au rang avec les 3 cases noires dans A.1 , ces 3 cases noires correspondent aux mailles du pouce - tricotez ces 3 mailles en suivant le diagramme A.2 (continuez A.1 sur les autres mailles comme avant). Quand ces 3 cases noires sont terminées, mettez les mailles du pouce en attente (A.2 est terminé) et continuez A.1 comme avant sur les 3 m montées au-dessus des mailles en attente. Bon tricot!

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