DROPS Baby / 17 / 18

Baby Squirrel by DROPS Design

Set of knitted cardigan with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks and pants in rib st for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Sock to fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
JACKET AND SOCKS:
150-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 3140, light pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 0618, beige
50 g for all sizes colour no 2921, cerise
PANTS:
100-100-150 (150-150) g colour no 0100, off-white

JACKET AND SOCKS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 35 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS no 523: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.

PANTS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) size 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – the entire pattern is worked in stocking st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
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BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 152-172-188 (208-224) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with light pink and work 3 cm rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st – SEE ABOVE, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue in stocking st with 1 garter st each side towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME dec 20-24-26 (30-32) sts evenly on first row = 132-148-162 (178-192) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 16-18-21 (24-27) cm work next row as follows from RS: 29-33-37 (41-44) sts = right front piece, cast off 8 sts for armhole, 58-66-72 (80-88) sts = back piece, cast off 8 sts for armhole, 29-33-37 (41-44) sts = left front piece.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-44-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with light pink and work 3 cm rib, K2/P2. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-6-8 (10-12) sts evenly on first round = 36-38-40 (42-44) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under arm. When piece measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 5-5-5 (6-6) round a total of 7-8-9 (10-12) times = 50-54-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures 14-16-18 (22-26) cm cast off 8 sts mid under arm (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 42-46-50 (54-60) sts left on needle.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 200-224-246 (270-296) sts. Work 1-1-3 (7-10) rows in light pink, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-4 (4-6) sts evenly on first row = 194-218-242 (266-290) sts. Now continue in M.1 with 1 garter st each side towards mid front – beg by arrow. After M.1 there are 82-92-102 (112-122) sts on row and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm. Slip sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT BAND: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Pick up approx 76-80-88 (100-112) sts (divisible by 4) along left front piece inside 1 edge st on needle size 2.5 mm with light pink. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. Cast off when rib measures 2.5 cm.

RIGHT FRONT BAND: Like left front band but after 1 cm make 4-4-5 (5-5) buttonholes evenly distributed – place the top buttonhole approx 4 cm from neckline and the bottom one approx 2 cm from bottom edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row.

NECKLINE: Pick up 6 sts on right front band with light pink, work sts from stitch holder back on needle, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-16-22 (28-34) sts evenly and then pick up 6 sts on left front band = 84-88-92 (96-100) sts. K 4 rows on all sts and continue as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 1 garter st. Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME when rib measures 1 cm make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. Cast off in rib when rib measures 2 cm.

ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under arms and sew on buttons.
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SOCKS:

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

PATTERN: See diagram M.2 – the entire diagram is worked in stocking st.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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SOCKS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with light pink. Work 5-5-6 (6-7) cm rib, K2/P2, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 36-40-40 (44-48) sts. Now keep the first 18-20-20 (22-26) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm stocking st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (10-11) sts on both sides of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 42-48-50 (52-56) sts. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st before the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on upper foot by K2 tog and 1 st after the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts upper foot by K2 tog into back of loop. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 3-6-7 (5-7) times = 36-36-36 (42-42) sts. When piece measures 6-7-8 (10-12) cm from marker on heel work M.2. Now insert a marker each side with 18-18-18 (22-22) sts on upper foot and 18-18-18 (20-20) sts under foot. Continue in off-white, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every round 7-7-7 (8-8) times = 8-8-8 (10-10) sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.
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PANTS:

INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of the 2 K sts mid back (marker sits between these 2 sts). Inc by K 2 sts in 1 st, incorporate the inc sts in rib as you go along.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec on each side of marker mid front.
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-60-64 (68-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Alpaca. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. Continue as follows: K1, * P2/K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and K1. When piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker by K 2 sts in 1 st on every 5-6-8 (9-12) round a total of 8 times = 72-76-80 (84-88) sts – incorporate the inc sts in rib as you go along.
When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-33) cm divide piece by marker and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip both legs on the same circular needle afterwards), AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 74-78-82 (86-90) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (27-35) cm cast off 5 sts each side (1 edge st, K1, P2 and K1) = 64-68-72 (76-80) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

PANTS:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 3 mm = 128-136-144 (152-160) sts. Insert 1 marker mid front and 1 marker mid back (both markers sit between 2 K sts). Continue in rib, K2/P2, AT THE SAME TIME inc mid back and dec mid front as follows:
Inc 2 sts mid back – SEE INCREASING TIP – on every 4th round a total of 4 times and dec 2 sts mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP – on every 4th round a total of 8 times.
After all inc and dec are complete there are 120-128-136 (144-152) sts on round. Continue in rib until piece measures 38-42-47 (52-60) cm, cast off.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the inside of legs at top and sew opening between legs.

Diagram

= light pink
= beige
= cerise
= off-white
= K2 tog


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Elisabeth 18.02.2019 - 09:37:

Hallo, sind bei dem Muster nur die Hinreihen dargestellt und die Rückriehen, wie es dann erscheint?

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 10:52:

Liebe Elisabeth, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, dh die Hin sowie die Rückreihen. Lesen Sie die Hinreihen rechts nach links (vom unteren Ecke an der rechten Seite) und die Rückreihe links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anneli 23.11.2018 - 06:26:

Hei Lurer bare på m1-når jeg skal strikke siste del av mønsteret- beige og rosa- skal jeg da på rad1strikke 2beige og 4 rosa? Når jeg ser på mønsteret skal jeg «regne med begge kolonnene»når jeg skal strikke mønsteret?altså to beige-4rosa-2beige-4rosa osv

DROPS Design 23.11.2018 kl. 08:22:

Hei Anneli. Ja det stemmer, du strikker 1 beige, 4 rosa, 2 beige, 4 rosa, 2 beige, 4 rosa osv. og avslutter med 1 beige. God fornøyelse

Signe Råheim 12.08.2018 - 18:43:

Hvor mange cm skal man strikke før man begynner på mønsteret på jakka, det pleier å stå i oppskrifta, nen mangler i denne.

DROPS Design 17.08.2018 kl. 11:00:

Hei Signe. Du begynner å strikke mønster på bærestykke, etter at ermer og bol er satt sammen på pinnen - da måler arbeidet ca 16-18-21 (24-27) cm. Du strikker 1-1-3 (7-10) p med lys rosa – SAMTIDIG på 1.p felles det 6-6-4 (4-6) m jevnt fordelt. Så strikkes og felles det etter mønster M.1. God fornøyelse.

Signe Råheim 12.08.2018 - 18:40:

Hvor mange cm skal man strikke før man begynner på mønsteret. Det står ingenting om det i den norske oppskrifta.

Betty Kjønnø 03.03.2018 - 18:29:

Hei,jeg skjønner ikke helt første fellingen.Skal jeg strikke 10 masker og felle en,eller skal jeg strikke 10 masker og felle 2?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 08:39:

Hei Betty. For å kunne hjelpe deg, trenger vi litt mer informasjon :) Hvilken størrelse strikker du og hvilken første felling mener du, er det på erm, bol eller bærestykke? mvh Drops design

Brett 11.05.2016 - 07:15:

Kan je ook averechts breien met 2 draden (kleuren)op de Noorse manier of moet je dan continental breien ?

DROPS Design 11.05.2016 kl. 16:56:

Hoi Brett. Ja, dat kan prima. Helaas hebben wij volgens mij (nog) niet een video van

Uding 18.10.2015 - 19:26:

Vielen dank für Ihre schnelle Antwort Grüße aus Oberhausen Silvia Uding

Uding 14.10.2015 - 08:32:

Diesen abschnitt verstehe ich nicht: und bei jeder 5.-5.-5.(6.-6.) R. total 7-8-9 (10-12) Mal = 50-54-58 (62-68) M.

DROPS Design 16.10.2015 kl. 11:49:

Es bedeutet, dass Sie die Ärmelzunahmen in jeder 5. bzw. 6. Rd (je nach Größe) ingesamt so oft wie für Ihre gewünschte Größe arbeiten. D.h. Sie stricken 4 bzw. 5 Rd, dann nehmen Sie in der nächsten Rd an der unteren Ärmelmitte zu, dann stricken Sie wieder 4 bzw. 5 Rd und nehmen in der nächsten Rd zu usw., bis Sie so oft wie genannt zugenommen haben.

Julie 17.10.2013 - 02:57:

Je voudrait savoir quand il dise 21 cm en hauteur total ca veux tu dire que je compte la cote avec merci de vouloir me répondre

DROPS Design 17.10.2013 kl. 09:12:

Bonjour Julie, c'est exact, les 21 cm de hauteur totale sont mesurés à partir du rang de montage, côtes comprises. Bon tricot!

Sally 24.01.2013 - 23:03:

Please can you tell me what 42 p/v = ca 12cm. Which way do you srart the pattern from the arrow. to the left of the right.

DROPS Design 25.01.2013 kl. 09:16:

Dear Sally, it means 42 rows = approx 12 cm. You start diagram where there is the arrow, towards the left side on RS rows, from left to the right on WS rows. Happy knitting!

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