DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.20$. Read more.
DROPS Baby 16-24
Measurements:
Small blanket: width = 65 cm [25½”], length = 83 cm [32¾”]
Large blanket: width = 75 cm [29½”], length = 83 cm [32¾”]

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
200-250 g color no 0100, off-white
100-100 g color no 3770, dark fuchsia
100-100 g color no 2921, cerise
100-100 g color no 3720, violet
50 - 50 g color no 3140, light pink

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 5 mm [H/8] – or size needed to get 19 dc x 10 rows with
2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
STRIPES:
Crochet the whole blanket with 2 threads as follows:
2 rows violet, 4 rows off-white,
2 rows cerise, 1 row dark fuchsia,
3 rows off-white, 2 rows dark fuchsia,
1 row light pink, 2 rows violet,
3 rows off-white, 3 rows cerise,
2 rows violet, 4 rows off-white,
2 rows dark fuchsia, 3 rows violet,
2 rows off-white, 1 row cerise,
2 rows dark fuchsia, 3 rows off-white,
2 rows violet, 1 row light pink,
3 rows dark fuchsia, 5 rows off-white,
2 rows cerise, 1 row dark fuchsia,
2 rows off-white,
= a total of 58 rows.
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BLANKET:
LOOSELY crochet 198-226 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with 2 threads violet and crochet hook size 5 mm [H/8].
ROW 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 10 ch, * skip 4 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 12 ch, 3 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 12 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-7 times, skip 4 ch, 1 dc in each of the last 12 ch = 168-192 dc.
ROW 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc * skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, 2 dc in ch-loop, 3 ch, 2 dc in the same ch-loop, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-7 times, skip 4 dc and finish with 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc and 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc = 168-192 dc.
Repeat row 2 until all stripes have been completed. Blanket measures approx 83 cm [32¾”].

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 16-24

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Comments / Questions (112)

country flag LM wrote:

Hei! Jeg begynner med 198 lm, men etter Rad 1 har jeg 186 masker - ikke 168. Ved å følge oppskrift videre og hekle rad 2 så har jeg da også etter fullført rad 2, fortsatt 186 masker. Hva gjør jeg feil? Jeg teller med de tre lm som hekles til «bue», til info. Vil teppet bli ok, så lenge jeg fortsetter å ha 186 m pr rad - og følger det oppover? Kan ikke helt skjønne hvordan dere klarer å gå ned fra 198 og til 168 på kun 1 rad - reduksjon på 30.

20.08.2023 - 15:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei LM. Når du hekler 1. rad så hekler du 12 staver , hopp over 4 luftmasker, hekle 12 staver, hekle 3 luftmasker (IKKE hopp over 3 luftmasker), men fortsett med 1 stav i neste maske, slik at det blir en luftmaskebue med 3 luftmasker mellom 2 staver. Om du har hoppet over 3 luftmasker, ender du opp med 186 staver og ikke 168 staver som det står i oppskriften. Ta gjerne en titt på hjelpevideoen: Hvordan hekle et sikk-sakk mønster . mvh DROPS Design

21.08.2023 - 13:21

country flag Marie wrote:

Hej, jag vill gärna göra en kant runt filten, har ni något tips på hur det kan göras?

28.04.2023 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marie. Da tenker du kanskje bare en kant på langsiden, så ikke zig-zag mønstret blir borte? Hva med noen små picot kanter? Eller kanskje en liten viftekant? Søk på picot eller viftekant under video siden. mvh DROPS Design

02.05.2023 - 08:58

country flag Grete wrote:

Er dette teppet hekla med bomullsgarn? D ser sånn ut på bildet.

08.12.2021 - 17:10

country flag Solvor wrote:

Jag har gjort denna filt tidigare men i Molly acrylgarn,virknål nr 7. Filten blir ju då väldigt stor.Så det jag undrar är om jag vill använda det garnet men ändå få en baby filt ungefär som erat mått,hur många lim ska jag då lägga upp?jag minns inte hur stor den blev,men ca dubbel så stor.Jag förstår inte hur man ska räkna för att få storlek som ca hälften eller något större el som erat mått är.Tycker fö att filten är fin.

09.09.2021 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solvor. Om du använder en annan virknål/garn som uppges i mönstret så får du göra en provlapp och mäta din virkfasthet för att kunna beräkna hur många maskor du ska ha för att få ett visst mått på filten. Mvh DROPS Design

10.09.2021 - 08:34

country flag Sabrina wrote:

Con il doppio filo, il numero di maglie indicato e l'uncinetto n.5 mi diventa un lavoro enorme...riduco le maglie o utilizzo un uncinetto più fine? Grazie

02.09.2021 - 06:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sabrina, se ha ottenuto il campione indicato, le misure della coperta sono quelle riportate all'inizio del modello. Buon lavoro!

02.09.2021 - 19:07

country flag Sabrina wrote:

Buongiorno! Dovendo lavorare con 2 fili non capisco la quantità di filato necessaria. Per esempio del filato rosa scuso servono 100 grammi oppure 100+100? Grazie.

29.08.2021 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sabrina, la quantità di filato è quella indicata per le 2 misure: ad esempio per il colore panna, serviranno 200 g per la coperta piccola e 250 g per quella grande. Buon lavoro!

29.08.2021 - 22:07

country flag Jeanne wrote:

Bonjour, C'est possible de faire cette belle couverture avec une autre grandeur de fil? J'ai de la Super Bulky #6 (100% polyestère. Je n'ai pas trouvé de modèle intéressant avec cette grandeur de laine. Merci et bon début d'année 2021, Jeanne

27.12.2020 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jeanne, fort probablement, mais il vous faudra ajuster le nombre de mailles pour la taille de votre laine. Réaliser un échantillon pourra vous aider. Bon crochet!

04.01.2021 - 09:48

country flag Heegeldaja wrote:

Tere! Mis suuruses heegelnõela peaks kasutama sellise teki tegemiseks?

19.10.2020 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Heegeldaja! Juhendis on soovitatud 5 mm heegelnõela, aga alati võib kasutada omale sobivamat. Head heegeldamist!

26.10.2020 - 14:38

country flag Laura wrote:

Bonjour, Il est marqué de crocheter avec 2 fils. Cela veut dire que je dois doubler mon fil ? Un fil de 2 pelotes différentes de même couleur ou les 2 extrémités d'une même pelote si je n'en ai qu'une ? Quel est l'intérêt de ce doublage svp ? Merci

23.09.2020 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laura, on doit effectivement crocheter avec le fil en double, à vous de choisir votre technique, certaines préfèrent utiliser les 2 extrémités d'une seule pelote, d'autres préfèrent utiliser 2 pelotes en même temps et d'autre encore faire une pelote avec les fils en double. L'intérêt de crocheter avec le fil en double est d'obtenir la texture (et naturellement l'échantillon et donc les mesures finales) souhaités. Bon crochet!

23.09.2020 - 14:23

country flag Emma wrote:

Hej! Älskar detta mönster och har hittills gjort 2 filtar i detta. Däremot undrar jag om man önskar göra filten mindre än alternativen ovan finns de något sätt att få till det då? Har försökt några gånger nu utan framgång. Tacksam för svar!

19.09.2020 - 08:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Emma. Det kan du fint gjøre. Om du ønsker "1 sikk-sakk" mindre, start med 28 færre luftmasker (eller 56 færre luftmasker for 2 "2 sikk-sakk" mindre). God Fornøyelse!

21.09.2020 - 11:10