DROPS Baby / 11 / 9

Little Hadrien by DROPS Design

Hooded jacket and trousers in Rib in Safran. Blanket in Karisma Superwash

Tags: hood, jackets, pants, sets,
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92
Because of the Rib pattern, the trousers will be slightly smaller than the measurements in the measurement chart.

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-200-250-250 g colour no 18, off-white
150-150-150-200 g colour no 18, off-white
300-300-350-400 g colour no 18, off-white

DROPS circular needle, pointed and double pointed needles size 2.5mm

DROPS wooden button, no 503, 5 pcs.

Approx 50-60 cm elastic ribbon for trousers.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.70 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 25 sts x 34 rows on needle size 2.5mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle):: Knit all rows

Rib 1: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Rib 2:: *K3, P3*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagram M.1 – M.3. The diagram is seen from the RS.

Decreasing tips (apply to trousers): Dec on each side of 3 K sts in garter sts mid back. Dec by P2 tog.

Increasing tips (apply to trousers): Inc in the 1st P st on each side of 3 K sts front. Inc by picking up st from previous row.


Back piece: Cast on 68-74-80-92 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Knit M.1 and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 11-12-15-18 cm knit M.2 and finish the piece in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter sts each side. At the same time when piece measures 16-17-20-23 cm dec for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-2 times and 1 st 4-4-4-5 times = 50-56-62-68 sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. When piece measures 26-28-32-36 cm cast off the middle 20-24-26-32 sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row = 13-14-16-16 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33-37 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on 32-38-44-50 sts (incl 1 edge st each side and 1 edge st towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Knit M.1 and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 11-12-15-18 cm knit M.2 and finish the piece in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter sts each side and towards mid front. At the same time when piece measures 16-17-20-23 cm dec for armhole on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-2 times and 1 st 4-4-4-5 times = 23-29-35-38 sts. When piece measures 23-24-28-31 cm cast off 6-8-12-13 sts towards mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 2-3-3-3 times = 13-14-16-16 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33-37 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on and knit as right front piece but dec for armhole and neckline opposite sides.

Sleeve: Cast on 44-46-48-50 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needles size 2.5 mm with Safran. Knit M.1 and continue in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter sts each side. At the same time after M.1 inc 1 st each side on every 7-6-6-7 row a total of 6-7-9-10 times = 56-60-66-70 sts – incorporate the inc sts in pattern as you go along. When piece measures 16-17-20-24 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-3-3-3 times, 1 st 4-3-3-4 times, 2 sts 2-2-2-3 times and then 3 sts each side until piece measures 22-23-26-31 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Left front edge: Pick up approx 60-80 sts (divisible by 4) along left front piece on needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Knit Rib-1 with 1 st in garter st and K2 each side. Cast off in Rib when edge measures 2 cm.
Right front edge: Pick up and knit as left but after 1 cm make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row – the bottom and top ones approx 1 cm from the edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on the return row.
Hood: Pick up approx 64 to 88 sts round the neck (also over front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Knit 1 row, at the same time casting on 12 new sts each side towards mid front and inc evenly on row to 108-114-120-126 sts in total. Continue in M.3 with 12 sts each side in garter sts. Cast off when hood measures approx 21-23-25-27 cm – adjust after 1 full repeat of M.3. Sew hood tog at the top. Fold the 12 garter sts towards the RS and attach with neat sts.

Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.


The trousers are knitted from top down.

Cast on 132-144-156-168 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran and knit Rib-2. Insert a marking thread in the middle of 3 K sts mid front and mid back, i.e. 65-71-77-83 sts between MT. When piece measures 12-13-15-16 cm dec on each side of MT at the back and inc on each side of MT at the front – see Decreasing and Increasing tips – as follows: dec on every 4th row a total of 6 times and inc on every 4th row a total of 6 times – K the first 3 inc sts and P the next 3 inc sts = 132-144-156-168 sts. When piece measures 20-21-23-24 cm cast off the middle 3 sts at front and at back. Put sts on left leg (when worn) on a thread and knit each leg separately.

Right leg: Put sts from right leg on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = 65-71-77-83 sts. Continue round in Rib-2, at the same time casting on 7 new sts between the cast off sts front and back = 72-78-84-90 sts. When piece measures 35-39-43-48 cm dec all P3 to P2 and all K3 to K2 = 48-52-56-60 sts. Knit 3 cm in Rib-1. Now put the back 36-40-40-44 sts on a thread. Knit 4-5-6-7 cm stocking sts back and forth over the remaining 12-12-16-16 sts mid front, at the same time dec 4 sts evenly on the last row = 8-8-12-12 sts. Put the 36-40-40-44 sts from thread back on needle and pick up 10-12-14-16 sts on each side of the piece in stocking sts = 64-72-80-88 sts. Knit 2-2-3-3 cm Rib-1 and cast off all sts except the 10-10-12-12 mid front. Knit 10-11-12-14 cm stocking sts over these = sole. Cast off.

Left leg: Knit as right leg.

Assembly: Sew the opening between legs and sew the sole to the side of the foot. Fold 2 cm at the top towards the wrong side and attach – leave an opening for the elastic.


BLANKET: see pattern no 11-25


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Susann 19.02.2020 - 17:52:

Hej, i det här mönstret och något annat hänvisar ni till FILT I KARISMA SUPERWASH modell 25. Men jag kan inte hitta det mönstret. Var finns det?

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 08:17:

Hej Susann, Här hittar du filten: DROPS BABY 11-25

Rachel MacInnes 26.11.2019 - 23:50:

I am about to start the left front edge and I watched the tutorial video on how to pick up stitches. The video instructs you to pick up one stitch for every hole, but that would be roughly 120 stitches and the range given in the pattern is 60-80. I am knitting the 24 month size so I was planning to aim for 80 stitches, but now I am afraid I need more as I don't want the joint to look bad, or have the edge pulling the sweater short in the middle. What do you recommend?

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 08:08:

Dear Mrs MacInnes, you can try picking up approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows or 2 sts for every 3 rows; when all stitches have been picked up, you can always adjust the number of stitches on first row from WS increasing or decreasing evenly, making sure your number of stitches is divisible by 4 + 2 (to get 1 edge st + K2 in each side). Happy knitting!

Marga 09.10.2019 - 18:29:

Moet de rand van capuchon helemaal vast gezet worden, of alleen de stukjes aan de voorkant, de omslag (De 12 rechte bedoel ik dat mee)

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 20:00:

Dag Marga,

Het is de bedoeling dat je het alleen vast zet aan de bovenkant, maar het hangt er ook een beetje vanaf wat je zelf het leukst vindt :)

Anna 02.10.2019 - 16:27:

Buon giorno Come mai non è in italiano?

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 16:35:

Buongiorno Anna. Tradurremo il modello in italiano appena possibile. Buon lavoro!

Rachel MacInnes 24.09.2019 - 02:40:

Hi, I am wondering what length of circular needle is best for this pattern? It is usually given, but does not seem to be listed in this case. I am planning to knit the 24 months size if that makes a difference. Thanks

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 10:39:

Dear Mrs MacInnes, the jacket is worked in different pieces worked back and forth, so that the length of circular needle is not that important. Trousers are worked in the round, the circular needle should always be somewhat smaller than the circomference of piece, so that a 60 cm (or even 40 cm) would be fine for size 2 years. Happy knitting!

Päivi Alison 07.05.2019 - 11:32:

I made this jacket for a newborn and love it! I showed it to my daughter in Australia on FaceTime and she thinks it would be lovely for my granddaughters (20 months and 71/2 years). If I got measurements for shoulders, sleeves, chest and length of jacket could someone alter the pattern for an older girl? She is very tall and slim (takes 9 year old sizes)! Obviously I can use the 24mth size for my younger granddaughter. I’ve made a few jumpers for them in Safran, it’s good for Oz winter!

DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 13:26:

Dear Mrs Alison, with the help of measurement chart, you can find the matching size for the youngest one. For the oldier one, you can also take inspiration from our knitted jacket with hood for children. Happy knitting!

Trish Nortier 14.04.2019 - 14:31:

I chose this pattern as I felt I could do it on straight needles. I am confused though by the number of stitches. If I started with 68 stitches and I decrease 3sts on 2 rows (6), 2 sts on 2 rows (4), 1 st on 4 rows (4) = 14 decreases. I end with 54 stitches - how do you get 50 left?

DROPS Design 14.04.2019 kl. 14:50:

Hello Trish. For armholes, you decrease each side: 3 sts once, 2 sts once and 1 st four times. That makes: 3 + 2 + 4 = 9 sts each side, and 9 x 2 = 18 sts on both sides. Starting with 68 sts, after all the decreases you are left with 68 - 18 = 50 sts. Happy knitting!

Fran Ordway 06.12.2018 - 17:17:

I am about to cast on 68 stitches for the back of the smallest size. (66 stitches knit in M-1 if I don\'t include the edge stitches). M-1 ( and all the patterns) are a 12 stitch repeat. How do I make the math work with that. Love your patterns.

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 08:32:

Dear Mrs Ordway, work the 68 sts as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, repeat the 12 stitches a total of 5 times (= over the next 60 sts), then work the first 6 sts in diagram, and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

Birgitta 23.08.2018 - 20:49:

På byxan står det att man ska sticka resår 2 uppöver, menas 2 rm 2 am? Därefter står det sätt en märktråd mitt i 3 rm, vad menas om man stickar 2 rm 2 am?

DROPS Design 24.08.2018 kl. 08:31:

Hei Birgitta. Vrangbord 2 strikkes slik: *3 masker rett, 3 masker vrang* gjenta fra *-*. Du skal feste merketrådene foran og bak i en av de midterste rettmaskene (alstå du strikker slik: … 3 vrang, 1 rett, 1 rett og sett merke, 1 rett, 3 vrang….) og det skal være 65-71-77-83 masker mellom merketrådene. God fornøyelse

Fran 09.06.2018 - 00:14:

On the front pieces you call for 1 edge stitch each side and 1edge stitch towards mid front. They are all to be knit in garter stitch. Where exactly should the 3rd edge stitch towards mid front be placed? It does not appear it is ever used...so why is it there? This is a very beautiful sweater that I am making for my new grand baby.

DROPS Design 11.06.2018 kl. 08:38:

Dear Fran, on the front pieces there are 1 edge sts worked in garter st on each side: one edge st towards mid front (beg of row on right front piece/end of row on left front piece) and towards the side (end of row on right front piece / beg of row on left front piece). Happy knitting!

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