DROPS Baby / 11 / 7

Little Ben Set by DROPS Design

Jacket and jumpsuit in Alpaca.

Tags: jackets, overalls, sets,
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92

JACKET:
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 g colour no 4434, purple/violet

DROPS circular needle and pointed needles size 2.5 mm
DROPS wooden button, no 513, 5 pcs.

JUMPSUIT:
Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
150-200-200- 250 g colour no 100, off-white

DROPS circular needle and pointed needles size 2.5 mm
DROPS gel button, no 620 (white), 4 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting tension: 32 sts x 34 rows on needle size 2.5 mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm. 25 sts x 34 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle: knit all rows.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.3. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Buttonhole: Make 5 buttonholes on right front edge from the RS. 1 buttonhole = cast off the 3rd and 4th st from the edge and cast on 2 new sts in the same place on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 5, 10, 14, 19 and 23 cm
Size 6/9 months: 6, 11, 16, 21 and 26 cm
Size 12/18 months: 6, 12, 17, 23 and 28 cm
Size 24 months: 6, 13, 19, 26 and 32 cm
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Back and front piece:
The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 176-198-220-242 sts (incl 5 front edge sts each side towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm with and knit 2 rows garter sts (1st row = RS). Knit next row as follows from the RS: 5 front edge sts in garter sts, M.1 over 165-187-209-231 sts, 1 st in stocking st and 5 front edge sts in garter sts. Continue pattern like this. At the same time when piece measures 5-6-6-6 cm make buttonhole on right front edge – see explanation above. When piece measures approx 15-17-19-22 cm (adjust so that next row is from the RS) knit 1 row in stocking sts whilst dec 46-48-54-56 sts evenly (do not dec over the front edge sts) = 130-150-166-186 sts. Now knit M.2 (1st row = WS) and then continue in M.3 with 5 front edge sts each side in garter sts until finished measurements. At the same time when piece measures 17-19-21-24 cm knit next row as follows from the RS: knit 32-37-41-46 sts (= right front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 54-64-72-82 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole, knit 32-37-41-46 sts (= left front piece). Now finish each piece separately.

Right front piece: = 32-37-41-46 sts. Dec for armhole on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1-2-4-5 times = 29-33-35-39 sts. When piece measures 24-27-29-33 cm cast off 8-10-10-11 sts mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-3-4-4 times = 13-15-16-19 sts left on shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 28-31-34-38 cm.
Left front piece: = 32-37-41-46 sts. Knit as right front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 54-64-72-82 sts. Cast off for armholes as described for front piece = 48-56-60-68 sts. When piece measures 26-29-32-36 cm cast off the middle 18-22-24-26 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on every other row 2 times = 13-15-16-19 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 28-31-34-38 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-42-42-46 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 2.5 mm and knit 4 rows garter sts. Continue in M.3. When piece measures 5 cm knit M.2 and finish the sleeve in stocking sts. At the same time when piece measures 3 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 9-10-12-13 times as follows:
Size 1/3 months: on every 5th and 6th row alternately
Size 6/9 months: on every 5th row
Size 12/18 months: on every 4th and 5th row alternately
Size 24 months: on every 5th and 6th row alternately
= 56-62-66-72 sts. When piece measures 18-18-20-24 cm dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 4 sts 2 times, 3 sts 1-2-2-1 times, 2 sts 4-4-3-7 times and then 3 sts each side until piece measures 22-23-25-30 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Collar: Pick up approx 65 to 85 sts round the neck (also pick up over front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm. Knit garter sts, at the same time inc 1 st inside 1 edge st each side on every other row a total of 3 times. When collar measures 4 cm cast off 1 st each side on every other row a total of 2 times and 2 sts a total of 2 times. Cast off.
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

JUMPSUIT:

Knitting tension: 25 sts x 41 rows on needle size 2.5 mm in moss sts = 10 x 10 cm. Garter sts (back and forth on needle: knit all rows.

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Moss sts: 1st row: *K1. P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: P over K, K over P. Repeat 2nd row.

Pattern: See diagram M.2. The diagram is seen from the RS.

Dec tips (apply to front of trousers): Dec on each side of the middle 2 sts from the RS. Note! Follow the moss sts pattern when dec.
Dec as follows before 2 sts: K2 tog
Dec as follows after 2 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Front piece - left leg: Cast on 22-24-26-28 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off-white. Knit 5-5-6-6 cm garter sts and dec 2 sts evenly on the last row = 20-22-24-26 sts. Knit 2 cm Rib. Continue in M.2 (1st row = WS) with 1 edge st each side, at the same time inc 12 sts evenly on first row in M.2 = 32-34-36-38 sts. After M.2 continue in moss sts, at the same time inc 1 st at one side (= inner leg) on every 6th row a total of 6-8-9-10 times = 38-42-45-48 sts. When piece measures 20-23-28-31 cm put all sts on a thread.

Front piece - right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg with inc at the opposite side.

Front piece: Put right and left leg on the same needle = 76-84-90-96 sts. Insert a marking between the legs mid front. Continue in moss sts, at the same time dec 1 st on each side of the 2 middle sts – see Dec Tips – on every other row 6 times = 64-72-78-84 sts. When piece measures 40-49-58-64 cm knit M.2 with 1 edge st each side (1st row = WS). After M.2 finish the piece in moss sts. When piece measures 44-53-62-68 cm dec for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-4-4-5 times = 48-54-60-64 sts. When piece measures 49-58-68-74 cm cast of the middle 12-16-18-18 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 4 times = 12-13-15-17 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-74-81 cm knit garter sts over all shoulder sts. At the same time after 2 rows in garter sts make 2 buttonholes on each shoulder as follows: Knit 2 sts, cast off 2 sts, knit 4-5-7-9 sts, cast off 2 sts, knit 2 sts. On the return row cast on 2 new sts in the same places. Cast off after 6 rows in garter sts.

Back piece – left leg: Cast on and knit as left leg on front piece but with inc the opposite side. When piece measures 20-23-28-31 cm cast off 12 sts on the inside of leg.

Back piece – right leg: Cast on and knit as left leg but with inc and dec the opposite side.

Back piece: Put right and left leg on the same needle = 52-60-66-72 sts. Insert a marking between the legs mid back. Continue in moss sts, at the same time inc 1 st on each side of the 2 middle sts on every other row 6 times (inc by picking up st from previous row) = 64-72-78-84 sts. Continue as described for front piece and dec for armhole as for front piece. When piece measures 52-62-72-79 cm cast off the middle 20-24-26-26 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 2 times = 12-13-15-17 sts left on each shoulder. When piece measures 54-64-74-81 cm knit 6 rows garter sts over all shoulder sts and cast off.

Assembly: Sew leg and side seams inside 1 edge st.
Armhole: Pick up approx 55 to 70 sts round both armholes on needle size 2.5 mm with off-white. Knit 4 rows garter sts and cast off.
Neckline: Pick up approx 50 to 60 sts round the neck on front piece on needle size 2.5 mm with off-white. Knit 4 rows garter sts and cast off. Pick up approx 35 to 45 sts round neck on back piece. Knit 4 rows garter sts and cast off.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= yo
= K 2 sts in this st
= K2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Françoise 29.03.2019 - 16:32:

Bonjour, serait-il possible s'il vous plait, d'avoir une traduction des points utilisés pour les diagrammes M1, M2 et M3. Merci

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 11:33:

Bonjour Françoise, vous trouverez la légende des symboles juste au-dessus des diagrammes, et ici, comment tricoter un diagramme. Bon tricot!

Paquet 13.01.2019 - 15:32:

Pour finir la salopette, selon les indications, on doit rabattre pour l'encolure au dos à 56cm, mais rabattre pour les épaule à 54 cm. On se retrouve avec une encolure plus haute que les épaules, ce qui reste étrange, et est infaisable sur l'ouvrage. Soit j'ai raté un truc, soit il y a une petite erreur ... Je pensais faire l'inverse. Merci de m'aiguiller.

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 11:38:

Bonjour Mme Paquet, il y avait effectivement une faute de frappe, on rabat les mailles de l'encolure à 52 cm (et celles des épaules à 54 cm). La correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

Bozena 17.07.2016 - 15:25:

Hej Jeg har brug for at finde ud af hvordan jeg kan strikke diagram M.1, det kan jeg ikke finde ud af. Kan man se det i video? Jeg har problemer med at strikke 2 m , hvor først strikkes 1 R uden at slippes af venstre p, derefter strikkes 1 r i bagerste del af m, slip m af p. Jeg kunne godt tænke mig et video på Diagram M1, M2 og M3. Med venlig hilsen Bozena

DROPS Design 19.07.2016 kl. 14:08:

Hej Bozena. Vi har desvaerre ingen video af mönstret lige nu. Men du strikker 2 m i 1 som i videoen herunder. Dvs, du tager 1 m ud paa hver side af M.1 og i midten tager du 2 masker ind = antal masker forbliver det samme:

Louise Kahle4 12.05.2015 - 18:17:

That is the perfect jacket for a baby girl. I am starting today!

Valeria 07.08.2014 - 05:41:

Hola, me gustaría saber qué significa la sigla pjd en M1 de este patrón. Gracias!

DROPS Design 08.08.2014 kl. 15:12:

Hola Valeria. 2 pjd = trabajar 2 pts juntos de derecho.

Kathy Murphy 19.02.2014 - 16:02:

I am trying to knit the 12/18 month size of jacket. Casted on 220 sts. The bands on either end use 10 sts, which leave 210 sts for the pattern. But the pattern worked 19 times covers 209 sts. What do I do with the 1 extra stitch?

DROPS Design 19.02.2014 kl. 21:04:

Dear Mrs Murphy, you will work 1 st in st st before last front band edge - see text, pattern has been edited. Happy knitting!

DROPS Design NL 27.11.2007 - 10:39:

Hoi Elisabeth. De Nederlandse verklaring van de symbolen in de teltekening staan onderaan dit patroon, in dezelfde verticale volgorde als de symbolen naast de teltekening. (zie "motief" in het patroon). Onderaan staat er vervolgens "VERTALING SYMBOLEN TELTEKENING". Succes met het breien ;o).

Elisabeth 27.11.2007 - 10:36:

De uitleg bij de teltekening is niet in het nedrlands weergegeven,is dit mogelijk?

Elisabeth 27.11.2007 - 10:34:

De uitleg bij de teltekening is niet in het nederlands weergegeven,zou dit wel mogelijk zijn?

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 11-7

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.