DROPS 104-39 by DROPS Design

Textured DROPS jacket in ”Alaska”. Sizes: S - XXXL

DROPS 104-39
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g colour no 05, dark grey
and use: DROPS Puddel from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 08, dark grey

DROPS circular needles size 5 mm – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting tension.
DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm - for crochet edge

DROPS dark buffalo horn button no 538: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pcs


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Wool
from 1.35 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Puddel DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Garter st: Knit all rows.

Moss stitch: 1st row: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

Pattern: See diagram M.1. Diagram is seen from RS.

Increasing tip (applies to collar):
Inc within 1st edge sts as follows: YO, on next row K into back of YO (knit into back of sts by knitting into back part of sts in stead of front part). Knit all new sts in garter sts.

Buttonhole: Cast off for buttonhole on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd and 4th sts from mid front. On next row cast on 2 new sts over cast off sts.
Cast off for buttonhole when piece measures:
Size S: 3, 12, 20, 29 and 38 cm.
Size M: 3, 12, 21, 30 and 39 cm.
Size L: 4, 12, 19, 26, 33 and 40 cm.
Size XL: 4, 12, 19, 26, 33 and 41 cm.
Size XXL: 4, 12, 19, 27, 34 and 42 cm.
Size XXXL: 5, 12, 20, 27, 35 and 43 cm.

Back and front pieces: Remember knitting tension! Knit piece back and forth on circular needles.
Cast on 174-186-202-222-242-266 sts (incl 5 front band sts on each side) on circular needles size 5 mm with Alaska. Knit garter sts - see explanation above – until piece measures 9 cm. Remember to close off for button hole – see explanation above. Knit 1 row stocking sts at the same time insert 2 marking threads or stitch marker into piece as follows: Knit 46-49-53-58-63-69 sts, insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker, knit 82-88-96-106-116-128 sts, insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker and knit last 46-49-53-58-63-69 sts.
Read entire next section before knitting commences:
Knit M.1, but garter sts 5 outermost sts on each side. At the same time when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm inc 1 st for collar - read Increasing tip as follows: on every other cm 11-12-11-12-11-12 times in total and on every cm 6-5-8-7-10-9 times in total – knit new sts and front edge sts in garter sts. At the same time when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm inc 1 extra sts into front edge (i.e. stitch number is the same but number of sts on front edge is inc and number of sts in M.1 is reduced) on every other cm 14-14-15-15-16-16 times in total. At the same time continue M.1 and the garter sts front edges until piece measures approx 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm – adjust to 1 pattern repeat in height. Continue in stocking sts with WS out and garter sts on collar, at the same time cast off 3 sts on each side of each marking thread or stitch marker for armhole.
Complete each piece separately.

Back piece: = 76-82-90-100-110-122 sts. Cast off for armhole on each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2-2-3-5-7-9 times and 1 sts 0-2-3-3-3-5 times = 68-70-72-74-76-76 sts. When piece measures 55-56-57-58-59-60 cm complete piece in moss stitch - see explanation above. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm cast off middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts for neck. Continuing cast off 1 sts on next row at neckline = 25-26-26-27-27-27 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

Left front piece: Knit same texture as back piece at the same time as casting off for armhole like back piece (NOTE! Continue inc for collar), but continue knitting front edge and new sts in garter sts. After inc and cast off there should be 56-57-60-61-64-64 sts on row. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm cast off the 25-26-26-27-27-27 outermost sts fro shoulder = 31-31-34-34-37-37 sts for collar. Insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker. Continue knitting garter sts on collar as follows: * 2 rows garter sts over all sts, 2 rows garter sts over outermost 20 sts towards mid front*, repeat from *-* for collar measures 5.5.-5.5.-6-6-6.5-6.5 cm from marking thread or stitch marker on shortest side. Cast off loosely.

Right front piece: Knit like left piece but reversed.

Sleeve: Cast on 44-46-48-50-52-54 sts (incl 1 edge sts on each side) on needles size 5 mm with Alaska. Knit garter st until piece measures 5-6-6-6-6-6 cm. Continue in stocking sts at the same time on 1st row stocking sts inc 1 sts on each side every 5.5 -4.5 -4 -3.5 3 -2.5 cm 8-9-10-11-12-13 times in total = 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts. At the same time when piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm knit 10 cm garter sts, then knit stocking sts until complete measurement. When piece measures 46-46-45-43-41-39 cm cast off 3 sts on each side to shape sleeve cap. Continuing cast off on every other row as follows: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 1-2-3-5-7-10 times. Continuing cast off 2 sts on each side until piece measures 53-54-54-54-54-55 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time on each side. Cast off when piece measures approx 54-55-55-55-55-56 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves. Sew collar tog mid back with mattress sts. Sew collar onto neckline back neck – avoid a thick seam by sewing in outermost seam.

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge with crochet hook size 6 mm with Puddel around opening of jacket, (i.e. along one front band, around collar edge and down long the other front band) as follows: * 1 dc, 4 ch and skip approx 2.5 cm * repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc. Sew in buttons.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 104-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Mandy De Vries wrote:

Er wordt in dit patroon dubbel gemeerderd bij de hals . Moet dat niet eerst geminderd zijn en vervolgens voor de kraag zelf gemeerderd? en als je mindert is dan het rechter pand eerst samen gebreid minderen of een afhalen een breien dan overhalen? Op welke plek minder je dan ?

18.08.2022 - 15:27

country flag Elsa Löfgren wrote:

Förstår inte riktigt ökningar för kragen.ska man först öka varannan cm 11ggr och sedan varje cm 8ggr

13.06.2017 - 17:30

Marilyn Mattfeld wrote:

Zohreh 25.11.2008 kl. 09:15: asked the question I need answered but I do not see a reply to her question.. I am confused about the increases also. please help!

14.05.2017 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mattfeld, this question was answered (has been now added as question/answer), let us know if you need more explanations. Happy knitting!

15.05.2017 - 09:30

country flag Monika Se. wrote:

Hallo, Danke für die Antwort, aber mit den 6 Maschen habe ich verstanden. Ich habe 63 Maschen für das Vorderteil + 11 Maschen für den Kragen zugenommen, dass sind 74 Maschen. Dann nehme ich für den Armausschnitt insgesamt 20 Maschen ab, das macht unterm Strich 54 Maschen. Entschuldigung, aber ich habe es mit Stift und auf einem Blatt Papier stehen, passiert selten das ich mir solch eine Mühe mache. Lieben Gruß aus Herne

08.05.2014 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, für den Kragen müssen Sie pro Vorderteil insgesamt 21 M zunehmen - 11x in jeder 2. R & 10x in jeder R. Von Anfang an gerechnet: 242 M Anschlag + 2x 21 M Kragenzunahme - 2x 6 M Armausschnitt - 110 M Rückenteil = 162 M für beide Vorderteile = 81 M pro Vorderteil nach allen Kragenzunahmen - 17 M Armausschnitt (7x 2 M + 3x 1 M) = 64 M.

08.05.2014 - 22:24

country flag Monika Se. wrote:

Hallo Liebes Drops Team, ich stricke zur Zeit diese Jacke in XXL, leider ist mir bei den Vorderteilen ein Fehler aufgefallen, vielleicht wurde übersehen das auch bei den Vorderteilen für den Armausschnitt 7 x 2 Maschen abgenommen werden. 1 x 3 Maschen, 7 x 2 Maschen und 3 x 1 Masche sind 20 Maschen, es bleiben dann 54 Maschen übrig. Liebe Grüße aus Herne

08.05.2014 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, es war tatsächlich ein Fehler in der Anleitung (gerade behoben), aber an anderer Stelle - Sie müssen 6 M pro Armausschnitt abketten, nicht 3. Es ergeben sich, einschl. der M für den Kragen, die noch nicht komplett zugenommen wurden, theoretisch 81 M pro Vorderteil. Wenn Sie die Armausschnitte dann arbeiten, d.h. dann noch 7x 2 M und 3x 1 M abketten, kommen Sie nach Abschluss aller Kragenzunahmen auf 64 M (81 M - 17 M). Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

08.05.2014 - 19:19

country flag GERVAIS wrote:

Je crois que c'est une aiguille circulaire n° 5 (et pas n° 9) ?

18.11.2013 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame Gervais, vous avez tout à fait raison, la taille d'aiguille a été modifiée sous les fournitures. Bon tricot!

18.11.2013 - 13:37

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour, Quelle quantité pour la taille XXXL ? il doit manquer un chiffre, mais lequel ?

24.03.2013 - 17:40

Trude answered:

1250 g

24.03.2013 - 19:44

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Inc first on every other cm = 2 cm between inc, on every cm = 1 cm between inc.

25.11.2008 - 17:04

Zohreh wrote:

Hi I have a question about increas for collar.in the pattern you said: on over other cm 11-12-11-12-11-12 times in total and on every cm 6-5-8-7-10-9 times in total I don't understan the meaning of on over other / on every cm. please more explain this part.

25.11.2008 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Zoreh, inc as follows: work *an inc row, work 2 cm* repeat from *-* the number of times stated for your size, after the last inc, *work 1 cm, work an inc row* repeat from *-*. Happy knitting!

16.05.2017 - 16:27

country flag Drops Design wrote:

Hej Sanna. Ifølge opskriften skal ærmekuppelen måle 17 cm i den største størrelse. Hvis du strikker løsere end hvad vi anbefaler i opskriften eller hvis du strikker i et andet garn en hvad vi anbefaler i opskriften, så vil din ærmekuppel blive for stor inden du får lukket alle maskerne af... Du kan altid få hjælp med opskriften hos vore forhandlere hvis du har købt garnet der. God fornøjelse!

27.10.2008 - 09:26

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