100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 99-22
Size: S - L
Head measures: 52/54 cm - 56/58 cm [20"/21" – 22"/23"]

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 16, white
50-50 g color no. 26, beige

DROPS crochet hook size 5 mm [H/8] – or the size needed to obtain correct crochet gauge.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: 14 dc in width x 9 rows using crochet hook size 5 mm [H/8] and Paris = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Crochet info: Substitute the first dc on each round with 3 ch . Finish each round with 1 sl st in the 3rd ch beg of round.

Read crochet info!
1st round: Crochet 4 ch using hook size 5 mm [H/8] and white Paris. Crochet 7 dc in the first ch, and finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch beg of round = 8 dc.
2nd round: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 16 dc.
3rd round: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 32 dc.
4th round: Crochet *1 dc in the first dc, 2 dc in the next dc * repeat from *-* = 48 dc.
5th round: *1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc *, repeat from *-* = 64 dc.
6th round: Crochet 1 dc in each dc but inc. 6-12 dc evenly distributed = 70-76 dc.
Continue crochet 1 dc in each dc until the piece measures approx. 11-12 cm [4⅜" – 4 ¾"]. Now crochet 1 round with beige, 2 rounds with white and 1 round with beige.
Now finish the hat with white at the same time on the first round inc 16-20 dc evenly distributed = 86-96 dc. Crochet 1 dc in each dc until the piece measures approx. 21-23 cm [8 ¼" – 9"]. Cut and sew away the thread.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Kerstin Homman wrote:

Ska man sy ihop mössan?

13.05.2024 - 07:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kerstin, hatten virkas runt, så du behöver inte sy :)

14.05.2024 - 11:59

country flag Cat wrote:

Please explain “6th round: crochet 1dc in each dc but increase 6-12 dc evenly distributed = 70-76”. Is this a sizing option? Ie choose how much to increase in only that one row, Or is it increase by 6 stitches over 2 rows, first to 70, and then to 76? Same question applies to last line of instructions for the brim. Thank you!

18.04.2024 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cat, this hat is available in 2 sizes: S and L, in the first size you will have to increase 6 dc evenly and in the 2nd size you will have to increase 12 dc evenly - read more on how to increase (or decrease) evenly in this lesson - same for the 16-20 increases: 16 in the first size and 20 in the 2nd size. Happy crocheting!

18.04.2024 - 16:01

country flag Sissel wrote:

Hei, jeg har tenkt å hekle hatt som passer utenpå min sykkelhjelm. Jeg har ingen erfaring i hekling, men det løser seg nok. Mitt spørsmål er hvordan øker jeg størrelsen til oppskriften? Hjelmen min (Yakkay) er 72 cm utenpå i omkrets.

23.02.2023 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sissel. Sjekk heklefastheten og øk deretter til du har det maskeantallet som vil gå rundt hjelmen din. Du hekler 1 maske mer før det økes på hver omgang. mvh DROPS Design

27.02.2023 - 13:24

country flag Nora Luise wrote:

Viss ein skal erstatte første st i kvar omg med 3 lm, blir det litt stort mellomrom kvar omg i starten (for då er det jo ingen stav som er hekla i det første "holet"/st dei omg det starter med ein st i st frå sist runde..?

27.06.2022 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nora. Du hekler 3 luftmasker for å komme "opp" i høyden / alle maskene blir i samme høyde (3 luftmasker = 1 stav i høyden). Det skal ikke bli noen særlig stort hull. Men ta gjerne en titt på hjelpevideoen som du finner under oppskriften: "Hvordan hekle rundt med staver " mvh DROPS Design

04.07.2022 - 10:00

country flag Kerstin Döchert wrote:

Wie kann ich die Anleitung in feste Maschen umrechnen oder halbe Stäbchen....ich möchte, dass der Hut nicht so große Löcher hat. Ist Baumwollgarn am besten geeignet? LG

14.03.2022 - 20:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Döchert, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage umrechnen, aber hier finden Sie alle unsere gehäkelten Sommerhüte, davon einigen mit nur festen Maschen gehäkelt; gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden gerne behilflich - auch telefonish oder per E-Mail - sein. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.03.2022 - 09:53

country flag Valerie wrote:

Bonjour. Comment répartir les 12 augmentations sur 64 mailles..je me souviens d'une division. Donc 64÷12=5,3..?crocheter 5 mailles et augmenter?

10.07.2021 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, cette leçon explique comment augmenter ou diminuer à intervalles réguliers. Bon crochet!

12.07.2021 - 07:31

country flag Linnéa wrote:

Har en till fråga, när ska sista ökningen göras? Ska det vara efter första randen beige eller när man påbörjar den sista biten i vitt dvs efter andra raden beige? Mvh Linnéa

10.07.2021 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linnea, ja det stemmer :)

13.07.2021 - 14:53

country flag Linnéa wrote:

Är beskrivningen bara för storlek S (52/54cm ) trots att det längst upp står L (56/58 cm) också? Kan inte se att det finns beskrivning och ökning för de större storlekarna, i vanliga fall brukar ni lägga in parantes för beskrivning i större storlek. För 76 maskor blir måttet 54 cm enligt uträkning i kommentrasfältet.

09.07.2021 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linnéa. Båda storlekar börjar likadant men sen från varv 6 så ser du att det finns 2 olika siffror där den sista gäller den större storleken. Mvh DROPS Design

09.07.2021 - 11:37

country flag Sabrina wrote:

Buon giorno, anch'io non capisco quando deve essere fatto l 'ultimo giro di aumenti, come risposto a Egina : quando vanno fatti? Dopo il primo O al secondo giro di beige? Grazie, Sabrina

10.06.2021 - 14:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sabrina, l'ultimo giro di aumenti va lavorato quando si inizia a lavorare alla fine in bianco, dopo il giro di beige. Buon lavoro!

11.06.2021 - 07:53

country flag Egina wrote:

“Terminare il cappello in bianco, allo stesso tempo, aumentare 16-20 m.a in modo uniforme al 1° giro = 86-96 m.a. Lavorare 1 m.a in ogni m.a finché il lavoro non misuri ca 21-23 cm. “ Non è chiaro quando deve essere fatto questo aumento: dopo il secondo giro beige?

23.04.2021 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Egina, esatto, questo aumento va lavorato dopo il 1° giro in beige. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2021 - 22:07